el_freddo

You guys are kind of stuck in America if you like the dual range. With those wheels you should be alright to pull that speed. For a period of time it probably won’t be fun. You could drop in the RXII AWD dual range box, swap the low range to the good L series version, swap the diff output stubs while you’re there too. Fourth ratio can’t be swapped without swapping 3rd as well. One side of the gearing (I can’t remember off the top of my head if it’s the top or bottom set) are cast/“stuck” together. 5th gear is a Lone Ranger and can be swapped independently - and the EJ phase 1 5th ratios are a direct swap. In the RX box you might find those ratios a bit more user friendly for what you want. These ratios are “wide” as opposed to the NA set that are “close”. The AWD box has the same internals as the EJ internals with the exception to the dual range - which makes single and dual range internals NOT interchangeable. I’ve got the RXII AWD box behind my EJ22, 4.111:1 diff ratio (not an easy swap but possible with a machinist!), turning 27 inch diametre tyres, matched speedo. I put in a different 5th ratio that turned out to be too short (same as what you’re running now - 0.87:1 - I wanted 0.78 from memory, the box I think came with 0.73:1 - which I should’ve just tried in the first place.). So you’ve got some options, but they’re limited if you’re married to the dual range. If dual range doesn’t matter, you’ve got loads of options from the EJ box series. Cheers Bennie

This is happening Stock brumby dash up top. This is the ONLY factory available dashboard and instrument cluster for the brumby in Australia. The lower dashboard and six gauge analogue cluster is from some touring wagons (most are digital), Coupés and the GL sedan. And of course it’s all Lego So this will be in soon. EJ wiring loom is being laid out for future use too Cheers Bennie

The ‘99 still had the EJ22. But with a small change in the valve setup it became interference. Externally the engines look the same. Cheers Bennie

Yep, same boot, almost the same issue as what you have there. A few more months (maybe) and it would’ve gone the same way as yours. The other three boots up front are fine - because they’re not located near the exhaust! I’m lookig at making a heat shield for the boot to help increase its life expectancy. I hope that repaired shaft does the job for you Cheers Bennie

There’s a permanent power wire, then there’s an ignition “ON” wire. You now need to find and check that ignition wire. Some of the SPFI conversion documents could provide you with the ECU pinouts to help find the ignition wire. I can’t remember if the SPFI ECU has one, but the ignition relay could be dead too. Worth looking into anyway. Cheers Bennie

Correct. The blown fuse you found - has it blown again? If so I’d start looking for any wiring that’s “aftermarket” that could be creating a short. It could even be the ignition switch shorting out and blowing the fuse. There are many reasons why your engine isn’t running, and that blown fuse is a good place to start interrogating the wiring. I really hope it’s an easy fix. Make sure the fuse you’re using is the correct rating. Anything more and you could be in for trouble. Cheers Bennie

Another solution for the manual: http://subarugears.com/ I’m thinking there’s a reason why no one has a reverse cut gear for the auto. Either no one has worked it out (not possible) or there’s a very simple solution that doesn’t require modified parts. The reduction gear on hub idea is probably going to be the best option after working out the rear section of the auto box as FerGloyal discusses in previous posts. Cheers Bennie

I would say the issue is the O ring in the head gasket that holds the oil pressure to the head has let go, it’s now leaking oil into the coolant gallery. That’s a head gasket job to fix that issue. Cheers Bennie

If you’ve done the preventative maintenance on the EJ it’ll give you no trouble and you’ll love it. Have you got your adaptor plate from Subarino Auto Electrics? Hit him up if you haven’t already. You can find him on gumtree or PM me and I’ll send you his details Cheers Bennie

I’d say it’s rings. If you had them out to inspect the rings you should’ve replaced them. I would’ve said valve stem seals, but since it’s longer in duration than just initial startup it seems like oil is allowed past the rings on shutdown. Have you overfilled the oil to compensate for the oil use? This could be exasibating the oil burn on start up and initial running. Cheers Bennie

If a bearing fails in an idler or a tensioner the belt tends to melt and make a huge mess rather than freying and snapping. Cleaning the melted belt from the teeth of the oil pump, crank and cam wheels takes ages, not “the usual” 30 mins on the side of the road. Cheers Bennie

Haha, the infamous Weber upgrade! Best upgrade IMHO. I saved coin and never did the Weber carb Cheers Bennie

Love the fix! And you’ll love the EJ in there. I’m guessing you’ve got a front wheel drive gearbox? You’ll want to upgrade that to an AWD box to help get the power down to the road Cheers Bennie

We still love pics! Mine are nuggets too - “good from afar, but far from good”! ^ I’ve had Ruby Scoo for well over ten years, I think I’m coming up on fifteen years. She’s got a computer but that’s never given me any trouble and I love the reliability, power and “starts every time” factor that came with the ECU and EJ22. Mid you’re willing, I’m keen to see pics of yours, as I’m sure others are (or start a thread in the members rides subforum). Cheers Bennie

Noise/rattle at the back of the car could be a muffler that’s broken down internally. Cheers Bennie

It could be the clutch cable chewing into the metal outer casing, or it could be an issue with the pressure plate. Also check the retainer pin at the top of the clutch pedal - mine recently “dropped” out. I replaced it with a pin from the brake pedal, there’s a plastic safety clip and a metal circlip that holds the pin in rather than just that pushed on inverted star clip. Mine feels much better now that the pin is intalled correctly. I don’t know how long it was only holding by one side of the clutch cable U piece that the pin passes through on both sides. Cheers Bennie

While you’re at it get an EJ to help drag all that extra weight around reliably! (It has to be said!) Cheers Bennie

Thanks for the update! Cheers Bennie

There are alternator upgrade mods documented on the forum, they might be worth looking into as a supporting mod for your audio. Wysubey is correct, you need a spacer block for a CD head unit. I used a piece of wood that was shaped to fit, it’s temporaray I said as I fitted it over 10 years ago! You can buy plastic professional looking spacers, they should still be available but I haven’t looked in ages. Cheers Bennie

The coil the dude mentioned is used with points. If you have electronic ignition in the dizzy (eg no points in the dizzy) then you don’t need this coil thingymajiga. Cheers Bennie

Ramps will be fine as you’re not playing with the suspension or wheels. I’d recommend lifting the engine out to do the work. So much easier! Cheers Bennie

Any suspension mount bolts loose? Engine mounts loose or broken? Tensioner noise will be there from start up and may get louder with revs, so you can rule that out. Cheers Bennie

Have you looked into your TPS (throttle position sensor)? You can remove it, pop the cover off (drill the plastic tabs on the mounting plate) and clean the contact slides and tab arms. These can sometimes gunk up and cause TPS reading issues for the ECU. Have you checked codes? I’d be starting there. Cheers Bennie

Nope. Cheers Bennie

Fair enough! Do some google searches, I’m sure it’s been documented somewhere as to how you trick the ECU. Otherwise the other way to go is aftermarket ECU if you’re that way inclined. Tunability goes through the roof. Cheers Bennie