el_freddo

Yes you can if you keep the connectors. I can read the codes on my sister’s Gen3 Liberty using the plugs. Nothing has changed in that department for the early OBDII, later gear may have changed but I’m not familiar with that. I’ve also been told on good authority (auto sparky mate) that OBDII Gen2 stuff is much easier to cut down than the OBDI Gen1 looms. Cheers Bennie

Performance/Budget right? Cheers Bennie

Broken timing belt means engine won’t run until the cam belt is replaced (EJs <95 models), or for 95 and up models, internal repair work and a new cam belt are sorted. If you break a timing belt and have momentum to keep the engine rotating, it won’t “feel right” compared to the same feeling you get when you turn the key off. I hope that makes sense. If it’s just the fuel pump, I reckon you dodged a bullet. Get that cam belt and all idlers replaces if it’s due for replacement. Cheers Bennie

@GeneralDisorder - mate, I really enjoy reading an insight to the way you think as a business in terms that are best for the customer/client’s back pocket. I’ve never had to think this way and I can see now where some of your “short and sharp” comments come from. @Numbchux - I agree about the carrier bearing comment. I broke the carrier before the centre bearing let go on one shaft! I still don’t know how that carrier bracket broke, other than some awesome off-roading action! I’ll be looking into this further when I get a chance. And I’ll add a spare uni joint to the spares kit too. Cheers Bennie

GLF5 models are what had the 5 speed front wheel drive box. You will find them in the coupe and possibly the hatch. Make sure the L series gearbox is from a carb fed model as these units have the same diff stub outputs as your MY. Cheers Bennie

I’d replace the igniter and the coil. A dead coil will kill the igniter. Ask me how I know... Cheers Bennie

Thanks for verifying @GeneralDisorder It’s always “best practice” to get a whole car for a conversion. This way you have everything you’ll need other than a short list of incidentals. Unless you know what/how you’re going about the conversion, a whole donor vehicle is the go - then you can sell the bits you don’t need to recover some costs. Cheers Bennie

Thanks for that, I’ll have to find out if they have those part numbers available over here. And don’t you need three uni joints for a Subaru driveshaft since they’re usually two piece or fitted with a centre support bearing? I know I need three for mine... Cheers Bennie

Yep, totally doing this to my L series tail shaft. @Numbchux What uni joint did you use as a replacement? I didn’t see any model or part number reference in your thread. Cheers Bennie

The ‘95-99 harness will IF you have the matching wiring from the intake manifold and possibly the intake manifold itself too. Cheers Bennie

Go the 5 speed. Do a search for a how to guide. This has been done plenty of times already. If your ‘83 is front wheel drive only and the 5spd is 4wd you’ll need to mod the rear to fit a rear diff etc. this involves sourcing a 4wd rear end setup - K frame and swing arms and a fuel tank with the divot for the rear diff. Of course you’ll need a rear diff and drive shafts too. Any 4wd MY will be compatible. Biggest issue is making captive nuts for the diff moustache bar mounts if they’re not already there. Cheers Bennie

Try this fella? Cheers Bennie

MINT! Cheers Bennie

In reference to FerGloyale’s “driveline” term. Certainly not a driveshaft/halfshaft. Cheers Bennie

That’d be a fifteen speed Cheers Bennie

The ignition relay from memory is a brown relay and will be with a second relay (fuel pump). As for their exact location I’m unsure, but I’d reckon it’s above the driver’s kick panel mounted either on the firewall or more likely on the inner side of the dashboard. Unfortunatley I can’t help much more than that. A google image search might give you an idea of what to look for. Cheers Bennie

The spark from the coil, is this with the engine turning over or by triggering the coil manually? I’m only ask because if you’ve got spark at the coil with the engine turning over, this indicates that the module is doing it’s thing. The issue lies between the coil, dizzy and four spark plugs. My guess would be a dud coil lead. If you’re triggering the coil manually you’ve got a working coil and the issue is most likely the module. Do you have the little four star trigger wheel installed correctly? Cheers Bennie

Expect to be shocked when you remove the glass. Bubbles or any hint of rust means is much worse under/behind the glass. Prepare to see rust holes once the windscreen is removed. It’s best to remove the dashboard before attempting to weld up any holes etc. This way you can protect all the wiring by covering it before you start any welding. Dad tried repairing my sister’s L sedan and almost set all the wiring behind the dash on fire! He was very lucky it didn’t go up good and proper!! Cheers Bennie

I so wish we got the RXII over here! I would’ve totally had one years ago!! Keep up the good work. That lip/air dam will look be interesting to see once it’s finished Cheers Bennie

Yeah mate neat ride. Got any further details to share? Cheers Bennie

Nice L Jeff! Welcome to the forum! Cheers Bennie

A properly built lift kit should not put any extra strain on the factory components. Putting oversized tyres on the other hand, will put extra strain on the factory components. The extra strain comes in when you do silly things like a 2 inch strut lift only. Do a 2 inch body and suspension lift and you’re still at factory angles on the drive shafts. Cheers Bennie

This is awesome in the fact that it seems you’ve retained the factory driveshaft too by the looks of things. Does this mean your rear track is now the same as that of the donor liberty/legacy? Cheers Bennie

Wow, good introduction! Welcome to the forum. I hope you got this thing REAL cheap! Have you asked the previous owner about what the engine came from? Otherwise pics might help identify the model the engine may have come from. Cheers Bennie

Awesome sharing mistakes. Both are gold and I’m sure you’ll both look back at them with the same light given enough time. I’m sure I’ve made mistakes but the only ones I can think of were more about learning - like pulling a gearbox down three times (on the bench) to work out why reverse wouldn’t work. Turns out you can’t put phase two gears sets into a phase one case set hand have all gears including reverse work. There was a lot of time wasted there. On the first EA82 rebuild I did - had both cams orientated at 12 o’clock when the cam belt went back on. It took me some time to work that one out. Never got it wrong since. I don’t work in a shop and I’m not professionally trained either, it’s only my own mechanical work that I waste time on, much like Jonathan909. Cheers Bennie