el_freddo

Cable clutch. Not hydro. The wrx clutch is a whole different kettle of fish! Cheers Bennie

Not left hand thread is it? Cheers Bennie

Ground wire is generally black with white stripe. Is there anything not working or the wire causing other issues? All the best sorting it out Cheers Bennie

Welcome back

I think Piv is correct about the wiring harness with LH and RH drive vehicles. Plus Australia Post charges like a raging bull for international post! A set of front corner indicators from an L series and a pack of Tim Tams or two cost about $56 to the US!! Finding a replacement locally seems like a much easier option Cheers Bennie

Worn synchros are the reason for the crunchy/hard gear shifts. If you earn to rev match and double clutch when down shifting you'll eliminate the difficult gear changes. Rev matching on "up changes" will help too. If there are whining noises in one particular gear plus always nasty gear changes up or down to that gear, it would indicate impending failure of that gear. This is from ONE experience I had with my L series 5 spd dual range box. Before it happened (600ish km), EVERY change to this gear had to be rev matched. Not much fun in mountainous driving. Worse was when the box let go in the middle of the remote 4wd track we headed out to! As for swapping out of 4wd - always on the fly! Gentle pressure on the lever will get it out no worries and can create a bang sound as the binding in the system is released. Higher the speed, generally the less noise. Corrugations are great for reducing bind in the 4wd system before disengaging it Cheers Bennie

Get an aftermarket gauge if you haven't already. The factory oil pressure gauges are only there for aesthetics, not accuracy! what oil viscosity are you using, this can have a huge effect on oil pressure once at operating temps. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... This think sounds tasty. You in Oz too since referring to the Brumby rather than Brat? The good news is that you've got spark etc. so hopefully it's either the firing order that's out or you just need to adjust the timing. And we definitely need pics of this setup/beast. Any internal work done to help with the longevity of the engine? Cheers Bennie

First easy place to look is in the Haynes manual. Yes, there it is, I said it. I recall a picture diagram in there for the MPFI TPS. I couldn't tell you if there's a SPFI TPS diagram in there though. You should find the SPFI TPS pin out in the SPFI conversion document. My copy is in a box somewhere, but I'm sure there will be a digital copy on the forum or a link to it off site. Cheers Bennie

Just use the AC compressor that came with the EJ or get a later model Subaru AC compressor. With the compressor you have all you need is the r134a valve fittings and you're set. Cheers Bennie

That shaft that is half a hole out is fitted 180* out. pull it off, rotate 180* and refit, the hole will line up perfectly for the proper sized pin I'm still sticking with the strut being the issue with this clunking sound you described earlier. Classic symptom. Cheers Bennie

Stop yelling!! PLEASE! Also in many places it's illegal to drive around without the bonnet fitted to the vehicle. Cheers Bennie

You'll need the matching turbo clutch and the flywheel (just to be sure it will all work). ratios will be different to those of a NA gearbox, but that shouldn't be an issue. Cheers Bennie

I nabbed one of these units for Sunnie the brumby then cut off one retainer clip on the underside to slot it in the factory EA hole. Fits snug and doesn't move As for the rubber grommet, surely you could use a generic rubber bung of a suitable size with the middle cut out... Or nab a decent one from a part yard vehicle. Cheers Bennie

I don't think the funnel is really the way to burp these vehicles without it being on ramps or taking it for a short spirited drive after a quick top off with the engine running. Thenback up on ramps, let cool off, top up again then run engine, top off if needed, cap on then go for a good drive that maintains highway speeds for a while if possible. Once that's done and it's cooled down again, check the coolant level and top up if needed. With the thermostat did you install it with the correct orientation? Does the upper and lower rad hose get hot? Do the Thermo fans cycle on and off? these are other factors that need to be known to help properly diagnose the issue. Cheers Bennie

Instead of a new radiator I recommend creating an air dam under the front of the L series, starting below the radiator and ending somewhere near the engine crossmember. You can add flutes that face backwards to the air dam too, this helps in creating a low air pressure system behind the radiator which naturally draws air through the radiator, increasing the cooling ability of the radiator without needing to rely on the fans as much. I did this with my EJ22'd L series with a dual core copper radiator (Nissan pulsar unit) and ran it across the Nullarbor Plain in the middle of our summer, loaded to the gills with the AC cranked. It got to 44*C outside and the car ran steady on 93*C at 110kmph. The makeshift air dam allowed us to do this as my L seems to have issues drawing air through the radiator at speed. I don't know if it's the lift kit with a modified factory bash plate rather than a custom unit (on the list of things to do), but the MAN truck grille we found on the side of the road the the trick beautifully for our return trip home. I also wonder if those little pressed metal plates that reside under the radiator on each side actually contribute to this pressure effect. They're usually left off at some point in these vehicle's lives and could be a factor on a stock vehicle's cooling ability. Cheers Bennie

Digital dash I don't know as I've not worked with these before - is this in an L series or MY? I would think that the suitable gauge would work, but the temp could be reading so low it doesn't register even one bar. If you let it heat up to cycle the fans you might see some action on the temp gauge... Hopefully someone else will chime in on this to shed some fresh light on the digi dash "situation" Cheers Bennie

Cool diagrams Jono! Have you not managed to find a factory pin out for this yet? You should try to find a gen2 ej22 pin out and see if it's the same. Cheers Bennie

There's a yellow/silver (possibly with a grey/silver dot) wire from the ECU. You should be able to find it in the pin out diagram. This wire needs to be hooked into the tacho wire on the back of the instrument cluster. You could try tracing the required wire in the vehicle's loom that's closer to the ECU if you wanted. I tapped in at the round plug at the back of the instrument cluster. The tacho will read correctly since it's a 4cyl swap into a 4cyl vehicle. You're correct about the temp gauge on the EJ sender Cheers Bennie

Here we go, my old man always told me it was to bed rings in and that regular small interval oil changes in the first 10k km were essential to remove fine metals from the engine internals to help reduce any permit ute wear on the mains and big ends... Anyone go yet another story about break in procedures? Cheers Bennie

Just use the factory EA wire, it'll plug right onto the EJ sender no problems. I'm not sure what the EJ's wire colour is, mine's hanging in the wind. I'd recommend fitting an aftermarket temp gauge that will tell you the actual temp of the engine. The L gauge in the EJ sender will read weird and usually be low compared to the standard operating temp displayed by an EA82 sender unit - not that it tells you much by pointing off to no where... Cheers Bennie

Where are you hiding Jono??! It's certainly not summer here! i doubt many people are silly enough to venture out in the heat with an ea82 (if anyone still drives them) and the ea81 radiator doesn't fit very nicely in the ea82 body... Cheers Bennie

The brown is definitely main power. The green plug unit I'm 99% sure is the fuel pump relay. Cheers Bennie

You need the units from the L series to make it work. Afaik it's a bolt in affair then mod wiring for dual headlights. The ea81 models need the radiator support panel swapped from the single to dual headlight unit from what I've been told. Cheers Bennie

Any transmission with matching diff ratio will fit and work so long as you stick with NA or Turbo gearbox according to your model. The clutch setups are completely different between the two. Or you can swap the rear diff to match the ratio of the new box. Or if you can find a rear housing it'll bolt up to the back of your gearbox. Most are 1:1 in the rear housing, but some are a funky 1:1.1 or something. I believe these are mainly turbo models, particlarly the earlier models. Got any pics to share on the box housing that's busted? Or is it internal? Cheers Bennie