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Everything posted by el_freddo
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1) needs new front struts. The old units are worn out and make that clunking sound over small ripples and bumps in the road. Replace the struts, get a wheel alignment and you'll be sorted. 2) inspect the AC belt for cracks etc and replace if necessary or just tension the belt up to reduce the initial slip that's causing the screeching. 3) replace the knock sensor and reset the ECU either by the battery dance (disconnect the battery for at least half an hour), then warm the engine up without touching the throttle for five or so minutes. Then go for a drive. You may find that the oxygen sensor will need replacing too. That should solve your issues. I reckon they're pretty small overall. Cheers Bennie
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Difference between 3at and 5mt driveshaft?
el_freddo replied to greatdane66's topic in Subaru Retrofitting
With the 5spd you have to make sure the gearbox comes from a carb fed EA82 as these boxes will have the correct diff stub to match your EA81 drive shafts. If you get an EFI EA82 box it'll have the larger stub axles like the EJ diff stubs. Stick to the carb spec gearbox and you'll be right with the drive shafts Cheers Bennie -
Ej22 swap alternator wiring
el_freddo replied to Liftedimpreza's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Do a search on the forum, I'm sure it's been covered on here somewhere. Otherwise the next best thing is to study the wiring diagrams of both vehicles to work out a solution. You'll probably find the small wire is ignition switched and reference wire - so you could tap that into the ECU's power wire so the alternator is triggered with ign ON. but you have to confirm what that wire does first. Cheers Bennie -
Ej22 swap high idle
el_freddo replied to Liftedimpreza's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
So what was the fix for those that may be searching about the same issue? Cheers Bennie -
Awesome! You're bloody lucky you didn't fry something in the ECU Happy travels! Bennie
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I'm not sold on those items being made in the states - country of origin doesn't necessarily mean made in that country. Could just mean it's been sold from that country's market. Cheers Bennie
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You could try to re-attach the wires while ensuring that they're properly insulated from each other. Otherwise grab another cam sensor. As for the ECU and loom, so long as they came from the same model (and possibly year) you'll be sorted. Cheers Bennie
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Nice ride mate, jump seats and all! On the rhs of the oil pump opposite the filter mount is/should be a hex key plug. This is where the oil light pressure switch is mounted on the "povo" pack vehicles (like mine). This should be a good spot to tap an aftermarket oil pressure gauge into. Removing the hex key is the trick Cheers Bennie
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You may not have injector pulse due to crank or cam sensor issues. Ensure these are hooked up correctly. Also using the EJ loom's start circuit helps starting as the ECU enriches the fuel air mix during cold starts. It's beneficial to have this hooked up... Cheers Bennie
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Fuel pump noise now has pauses
el_freddo replied to KiwiBrumby's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I can't hear my pump in the '90 brumby except on start up. It's generally quiet all other times unless sucking air when tank is extremely low. Generally with what you're experiencing I agree with Dee2 that this is a sign it's on it's way out. Cheers Bennie -
Make sure the heater circuit pipe work over the top of the engine isn't leaking. That little 90* bend from the top of the waterpump can fail as many people dot replace it since it's under the AC bracket (if equipped with it). This pipe work above the engine includes the little painful hoses to/from the throttle body area There are many small places in this area for a leak to develop. Cheers Bennie
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Hopefully it's an easy fix! Cheers Bennie
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One or two to trigger the relay. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for the donor model to confirm. If you cut down this loom with a diagram you should be able to work out how to replace this wiring. Hopefully you left it as is but not hooked up to the pump but I'm guessing it's been cut out :cry: Cheap and nasty way to sort this is to hook up the tacho signal from the ECU to the fuel pump control box in the right plug pin. But you'll still have under rated fuel pump wiring... Cheers Bennie
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Must have list of parts with you when off roading?
el_freddo replied to cashcow's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Tools: 8-19mm socket (1/2 inch drive) and spanner set 22mm socket (1/2 inch drive) for crank pulley bolt 36mm socket and breaker bar - 3/4 inch drive for Front CVs mallet range river bottle jack and handle Pin punch Assorted drill bits and a "converted" cordless drill to run off the battery Ammo box of tools such as pliers, CV band tool, spare CV bands, screwdrivers, shifters etc Spares: Fan belts for the engine you run. For the EJ I've got the shorter belt to run just the alternator if my PS pump shags out I've got a spare ECU that'll be padded and vacuum sealed as a spare to carry. Air filter gear oil engine oil (litre it two) spare rear shock/struts radiator hoses I need to add cam belt kit to this as well used ball joints, tie rod and rack end. Front and rear shafts Thats about it from memory. Cheers Bennie- 1 reply
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EJ pump relay required hands down. You need to run the higher rated EJ fuel pump loom. Whats happening is the fuel pump is being run by the EA control box that's not getting a revolution signal when the engine is turning over. Throw the EJ relay and wiring in there with the correct reference wire from the ECU and she'll be apples. Whoever told you to run the hp pump off the stock EA setup was taking big short cuts and must've had an early subaru where the pump ran all the time. sounds like you've got everything else sorted Cheers Bennie
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Also check the waterpump for a leaking shaft seal. its odd for a HG in the ea82 to externally leak coolant. Cheers Bennie
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Dash mat for me - or an appropriately shaped towel... Or some choice "borrowed" bar mats appropriately arranged... But I stop before cardboard cut out - that's just nasty! Keeping the car covered and out of the sun as much as possible is the best method but not always practical. Dash mats can be removed for a show etc to bring your A game with the least amount of work on your dashboard - just saying Cheers Bennie
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Temperature Guage not working 1990 Dl wagon
el_freddo replied to ea81turbo's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It's good to check the earth strap/wire between the battery and the engine, and the gearbox to the body (near spare wheel mount). Also ensure you've got an earth wire from the battery to the body. That'll have any earthing issues covered from the "big end". My brumby temp gauge didn't work, earthed the wire and there's no issues there - it works. Swapped out the sender. Still no dice. Made sure the contacts were clean. Still no dice. Now that I'm driving around in winter when I'm not worried about engine temps too much it starts to work again... Go figure. Cheers Bennie