el_freddo

Any transmission with matching diff ratio will fit and work so long as you stick with NA or Turbo gearbox according to your model. The clutch setups are completely different between the two. Or you can swap the rear diff to match the ratio of the new box. Or if you can find a rear housing it'll bolt up to the back of your gearbox. Most are 1:1 in the rear housing, but some are a funky 1:1.1 or something. I believe these are mainly turbo models, particlarly the earlier models. Got any pics to share on the box housing that's busted? Or is it internal? Cheers Bennie

KYB are the original factory equipment. The difference in sourcing them from anyone oter than Subaru is that oem KYBs are oil filled, aftermarket are gas filled. Both will be fine to use. Cheers Bennie

Yep I'm sure there are many forum members that can help. Best if you give a description of what the issue is. Cheers Bennie

1) needs new front struts. The old units are worn out and make that clunking sound over small ripples and bumps in the road. Replace the struts, get a wheel alignment and you'll be sorted. 2) inspect the AC belt for cracks etc and replace if necessary or just tension the belt up to reduce the initial slip that's causing the screeching. 3) replace the knock sensor and reset the ECU either by the battery dance (disconnect the battery for at least half an hour), then warm the engine up without touching the throttle for five or so minutes. Then go for a drive. You may find that the oxygen sensor will need replacing too. That should solve your issues. I reckon they're pretty small overall. Cheers Bennie

With the 5spd you have to make sure the gearbox comes from a carb fed EA82 as these boxes will have the correct diff stub to match your EA81 drive shafts. If you get an EFI EA82 box it'll have the larger stub axles like the EJ diff stubs. Stick to the carb spec gearbox and you'll be right with the drive shafts Cheers Bennie

Do a search on the forum, I'm sure it's been covered on here somewhere. Otherwise the next best thing is to study the wiring diagrams of both vehicles to work out a solution. You'll probably find the small wire is ignition switched and reference wire - so you could tap that into the ECU's power wire so the alternator is triggered with ign ON. but you have to confirm what that wire does first. Cheers Bennie

So what was the fix for those that may be searching about the same issue? Cheers Bennie

Awesome! You're bloody lucky you didn't fry something in the ECU Happy travels! Bennie

I'm not sold on those items being made in the states - country of origin doesn't necessarily mean made in that country. Could just mean it's been sold from that country's market. Cheers Bennie

Wow, same message about five times over now :p hooefully he's got it sorted Cheers Bennie

I think you're still onto a good thing if the 97 isn't like cornflakes from rust... Cheers Bennie

You could try to re-attach the wires while ensuring that they're properly insulated from each other. Otherwise grab another cam sensor. As for the ECU and loom, so long as they came from the same model (and possibly year) you'll be sorted. Cheers Bennie

Nice ride mate, jump seats and all! On the rhs of the oil pump opposite the filter mount is/should be a hex key plug. This is where the oil light pressure switch is mounted on the "povo" pack vehicles (like mine). This should be a good spot to tap an aftermarket oil pressure gauge into. Removing the hex key is the trick Cheers Bennie

You may not have injector pulse due to crank or cam sensor issues. Ensure these are hooked up correctly. Also using the EJ loom's start circuit helps starting as the ECU enriches the fuel air mix during cold starts. It's beneficial to have this hooked up... Cheers Bennie

Check/replace ECU power relay. Cheers Bennie

I can't hear my pump in the '90 brumby except on start up. It's generally quiet all other times unless sucking air when tank is extremely low. Generally with what you're experiencing I agree with Dee2 that this is a sign it's on it's way out. Cheers Bennie

Make sure the heater circuit pipe work over the top of the engine isn't leaking. That little 90* bend from the top of the waterpump can fail as many people dot replace it since it's under the AC bracket (if equipped with it). This pipe work above the engine includes the little painful hoses to/from the throttle body area There are many small places in this area for a leak to develop. Cheers Bennie

Hopefully it's an easy fix! Cheers Bennie

One or two to trigger the relay. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for the donor model to confirm. If you cut down this loom with a diagram you should be able to work out how to replace this wiring. Hopefully you left it as is but not hooked up to the pump but I'm guessing it's been cut out :cry: Cheap and nasty way to sort this is to hook up the tacho signal from the ECU to the fuel pump control box in the right plug pin. But you'll still have under rated fuel pump wiring... Cheers Bennie

Wow that's a list of replaced parts. Seems the expensive way to do it I'd be looking at the temp sensor. Fans running all the time is an indicator that this is dead. It could be on the way out... IACV is another on to checkout and at least clean up. Cheers Bennie

Tools: 8-19mm socket (1/2 inch drive) and spanner set 22mm socket (1/2 inch drive) for crank pulley bolt 36mm socket and breaker bar - 3/4 inch drive for Front CVs mallet range river bottle jack and handle Pin punch Assorted drill bits and a "converted" cordless drill to run off the battery Ammo box of tools such as pliers, CV band tool, spare CV bands, screwdrivers, shifters etc Spares: Fan belts for the engine you run. For the EJ I've got the shorter belt to run just the alternator if my PS pump shags out I've got a spare ECU that'll be padded and vacuum sealed as a spare to carry. Air filter gear oil engine oil (litre it two) spare rear shock/struts radiator hoses I need to add cam belt kit to this as well used ball joints, tie rod and rack end. Front and rear shafts Thats about it from memory. Cheers Bennie

EJ pump relay required hands down. You need to run the higher rated EJ fuel pump loom. Whats happening is the fuel pump is being run by the EA control box that's not getting a revolution signal when the engine is turning over. Throw the EJ relay and wiring in there with the correct reference wire from the ECU and she'll be apples. Whoever told you to run the hp pump off the stock EA setup was taking big short cuts and must've had an early subaru where the pump ran all the time. sounds like you've got everything else sorted Cheers Bennie

Also check the waterpump for a leaking shaft seal. its odd for a HG in the ea82 to externally leak coolant. Cheers Bennie

Check engine light should illuminate when the ignition is ON and the engine is not running. If you don't see that there's an issue with the check engine light. Cheers Bennie

Dash mat for me - or an appropriately shaped towel... Or some choice "borrowed" bar mats appropriately arranged... But I stop before cardboard cut out - that's just nasty! Keeping the car covered and out of the sun as much as possible is the best method but not always practical. Dash mats can be removed for a show etc to bring your A game with the least amount of work on your dashboard - just saying Cheers Bennie