el_freddo

Or a broken retainer spring inside the gearbox. There are three or four 10mm plug bolts on the side of the gearbox close together. These have the retainer springs and balls behind them. Use a hooked piece of wire to pull the springs out. Compare them all together - they should be the same size. Check what GD mentioned first as these are easier to do. Cheers Bennie

You’ll need custom: - Prop shaft - Gear selector linkages - Gearbox crossmember or an XT6 one may do the job, I’m not 100% on that though... The AWD with ej22 is well worth the effort. If running 27 inch tyres get a box from a forester as this will match the diff ratio to the tyre size I’m running a bitza box - phase 2 EJ dual range front cases, L series 1.59:1 low range with auxiliary oil feeders, SG drive and reverse gears, L series centre locking diff and matching rear housing, custom pinion shaft for 4.111:1 diff ratio (wish I had 4.44) and a 27 tooth speedo drive gear to pull my speedo back to proper accurate And I’m running 27 inch tyres with the EJ22 Cheers Bennie

My brumby will sound like it’s revving it’s tits off before the auto choke drops the revs. This can take several minutes in our winter, less if any in summer. Cheers Bennie

First I’ve heard of this for an L series! Our have one in the Y pipe and a resonator type muffler in the middle then the rear muffler. Cheers Bennie

^ that 2 inch lift would be a strut only lift. Which means you won’t have any down travel left in your suspension as you max out the cv shafts. Cheers Bennie

It’s not the valves clattering - it’s dead hydraulic lash adjusters that aren’t holding their oil pressure. The remedy is to replace them or have them serviced, someone will know. I can’t remember those details as I’ve done the most common and ultimate performance upgrade for an L series - an EJ conversion As for your low oil pressure, pull the pressure relief valve’s spring and ball, clean them and their “place of residence”. Fitting a 2 or 3mm spacer between the spring and the retaining bolt can help with any loss of spring tension too. I’ve done this twice without any issues. Cheers Bennie

Also, no need to replace the head bolts unless there’s something wrong with the thread. Cheers Bennie

In the L series?! That must be a Californian spec thing as I’ve not know Subaru’s to have two cat converters until maybe Gen4 (AUDM though). The other issue could be a problem with the regulator in the trans. My first thought was a blocked exhaust but the fact that it’ll rev to 4000rpm says otherwise - unless it’s in the early stages and is load dependant rather than rpm dependant. Cheers Bennie

I reckon someone’s added this bracket in there. I don’t recall this bracket on any of my EA82s - but it’s been a while since I’ve played with any of them now... Cheers Bennie

To be honest there’s really no way to do it without changing or modifying the steering linkage. You could do strut lift but kiss the longevity of yourCVs good bye! Cheers Bennie

Don’t get a new car, just a new engine... like an EJ engine Cheers Bennie

Exact details of the model in question would be helpful. Certainly start with the fusible links and go from there Cheers Bennie

+3 for genuine thermostat - every time! Cheers Bennie

@soobie87 - did you get the issue sorted? My thoughts would be the fuel cut relay/engine revolution sensor box. It’s a black box somewhere above the driver’s feet. 8 pin plug from memory. You should be able to throw a jump wire in to fire up the pump whenever the ignition is ON. Only recommended to do for diagnostic work. If the box is dead get another known good one Cheers Bennie

Bugger mate. If she’s thrashed I hope the damage is only in the engine and not the body etc. And I really hope you get it back and the waste of space get what’s coming to them. As a coincidence my mother in-laws targa brumby was broken into as an attempted theft (second time in a year). Very lucky. Cheers Bennie

Or look into hitbits coil overs. The fellas at Offroadsubarus have had good success with them in their lifted rides From what I can gather you can custom build your coil overs for your application. Cheers Bennie

@GeneralDisorder - what’s this “hour glassing effect” of the main line about? Ive not come across this before. Cheers Bennie

Yeah Bugger the 40/50mph stuff. I’ve slipped into 4wd from 2wd at higher speeds than that (100/110kmph) without issues. Just do it in a straight line. With the tyres, if you’re running different sizes or even same size, different brand/tyre model you may have binding issues that will lock it in 4wd - or make the car feel really unstable when that binding tension is released through one wheel. Not fun on snow I can tell you that! Cheers Bennie

When shifting from 4wd high to 4wd low ALWAYS use the clutch! And it’s best to shift into the next higher gear if on the move Cheers Bennie

You might also need to swap the crank and lhs cam sprocket/gear for ignition timing to work properly or at all. Cheers Bennie

California in about 2014 looking at the OP. Cheers Bennie

That user may have been me Jono and Jono That or I had the same convo with a mate when we were sorting something out between the two of us. Anyone know if the EA82 double uni joint can be fitted to the EA81 PS setup? Cheers Bennie

Dizzy swap to a carb unit, intake swap to that of a carb as well. You could get away with keeping the ecu and matching dizzy for ignition purposes but it might not be overall happy with the tps and O2 sensor missing. You may need to run some wires to excite the coil to make the bang in the cylinders - and sort out the anti-dieseling solenoid (or run the Weber) Cheers Bennie

Either way a butcher was at work there. Probably had to weld it back on several times due to the pressure and heat from the turbo extractors/headers. Cheers Bennie

I cut up some old conveyer belt and used that. Got rid of all the slopin the bush too Cheers Bennie