el_freddo

Ooh I love that colour!! neat head unit setup. I used a block of wood, got some filler to smooth it out and never finished it... It's been 13 awesome years Cheers Bennie

So are you saying avoid the genuine subaru oil filters? I've just found them to be a few dollars cheaper than the ryco aftermarket units at local retailers here. I thought OEM was better quality than anything aftermarket. Cheers Bennie

I should send my shafts over to you as this trick hasn't worked for me But they keep on trucking even though they're noisy as hell Cheers Bennie

I'd assume that the 5 stud conversion would change the ride handling through bigger brakes - giving better stopping power and reduce the chance of brake fade. Other than that you're essentially running the factory suspension and geometry. Cheers Bennie

Shame you're not near me, I've got two sitting around and another three in parts cars over here (in Oz). I know shipping to the states would be the better part of $1000AU... Not worth it Look around, you'll be surprised what's hiding out there. Have you put up a wanted advert on the site? Cheers Bennie

I did my EJ conversion while at uni. I searched for parts on my holidays, did my research of wiring etc between assignments then put it all together in my final year over the mid year holidays If you retain the factory gearbox you'll need an adaptor plate and get used to spinning the front wheels off the line if you're not careful! Or swap in the EJ AWD box, but lose the dual range in your case due to USDM AWD EJ boxes only being single range. Really though, getting the wiring cut down and working correctly is the biggest hurdle in this conversion in my opinion. Cheers Bennie

So I'm guessing auto as you haven't definitively said so. If this is the case ignore my post as this only applies to manuals from the L series - I thought yours may have had a gearbox conversion done. Best of luck getting your ride sorted! Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum! The twin turbo GT? Noice! Post up some pics when you get the chance. We all love pics here! First up I'd be swapping out the timing belt for a new quality kit! That way you know the history on the cam belt kit and know that nothing is going to snap and make other bits go tinker tinker tinker together. If you need any twin turbo info there's an Australian based forum with a TT guru or two on there, they know all about the twins, vacuum lines and trouble shooting Cheers Bennie

Like an EJ conversion. Done right and looked after it's a very good swap that comes with reliability. I'm still running on my same EJ conversion done ten years ago it also makes the L series a much more enjoyable car to drive. So patch that issue and plan for an EJ conversion I say! Cheers Bennie

Map lights: grab the factory wiring and you *should* find a matching plug under your dash for them to be powered from. Cheers Bennie

Check the power and vacuum to the solenoids to ensure they're working properly. Also check the switch as it sounds like it's not engaging in the on position. Cheers Bennie

As mentioned - check the resistors in the fan ducting. There will be several wires that plug into this device. Check those and go from there to the switch etc. Cheers Bennie

The XT6 5 stud hub swap doesn't do much for suspension other than change the front strut to EJ for the bigger brakes. Two reasons for this swap 1) wider rim selection becomes available and 2) you get the EJ brakes which means just about anything from the first liberty to the wrx and early sti (pre PCD change). as for the springs, heavier usually gives a little bit of lift but at the same time you lose some compression unless you're carrying a heavier load. The Honda springs go well unloaded. I'm now looking into IFS prado springs/shocks as the next piece of kit out the back. I might end up just using the Honda springs with the prado shocks - I'm not sure until I get the prado shocks and have a play. Cheers Bennie

Thanks for coming back to this and updating the thread as to what the fix was. It's pretty rare Cheers Bennie

@ErikAnderson - ok with more background context it makes sense. In that case find a decent used 4spd to bolt straight in because I can tell you now that if you open up a 4spd to service it you'll not have your wrx or your wife's car sorted anytime soon to start working on your motorbike. If you were keeping it, which I thought you were, my above recommendation for the 5spd stands. Or just save your time and sell it with a couple of crunchy gears. They can't be THAT bad can they? Cheers Bennie

.B) read up on the conversion process (search the forum). Not overly difficult. And a lot less difficult than pulling a 4spd apart for some worn synchros. Cheers Bennie

.A) what needs repairing? .B) everyone is with the 4 speed box. Your efforts would be better spent on fitting the L series 5spd box. At least there's some hope if you open up one of these Cheers Bennie

There are two different clutch sizes for the MY series. Typically the smaller is the 2wd and I believe the early 4wd unit. I can't see anything wrong with that pressure plate going by the pics but that doesn't mean much. Have you had time to look at the other components in the clutch system? Cheers Bennie

Make sure the dust boots are in good condition. If not it's probably a good idea to pull the calipers and put a new seal kit in them. If the piston on the driver's side is really badly rusted I'd recommend either a replacement piston or a refurbished set of calipers left and right. Cheers Bennie

After reading this thread start to finish my first thought was the timing chain, then the O2 sensor which I see GD mentioned too. I'd be looking at this/these sensors. If it was timing it'd be doing it from the first start of the day. Cheers Bennie

It could be a possibility. I'd be looking at the rim as the rim's mating surface with the nut will be showing some signs of severe contact if an air gun was used to tighten up the nut. Not much fun there. All wheel nuts should be done up by hand rather than an air gun. Cheers Bennie

I'm not sure that they're aiming to run it as a business that turns a profit, rather supplying a run of replacement tailgates to make many Brumbys look good again - the tailgate is usually the first thing to be dinged up or start to rust out if not internally cleaned out from time to time. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... I don't think we got dingers in our subi's unless there was some cheeky action going on... I also don't remember any chimes in our Gen3 ('99 model) like you describe. Are you sure you've got a key in chime for that model vehicle? Personally I don't see the issue about the key chime - I find them super annoying and with the function of remote locking it's pretty rare to lock the car manually anyway. This negates the need for an annoying key in chime. Cheers Bennie

Don't skimp on replacement driveshafts! I got a cheap set once. One clicked as I rolled out the driveway, the other clicked within 300km. I was lucky in that I was able to return them for a refund. Cheers Bennie

Yep, I second this. The "other way" that's unofficial that I think Cob Cruiser is talking about is to set one cam at 12 o'clock and the other at 6 o'clock and fit both belts at the same time. The issue with this is that one of the cams is not in it's relaxed state - as in without any valve springs acting on the cam's lobes. Really it's not too hard to fit one belt, rotate the crank 360 degrees and fit the second belt. If you don't rotate the crank you'll only ever get the engine to run on one bank at a time, not matter how many times you rotate the dizzy timing 180 degrees! Trust me, I know this first hand with my first and current L series. It took me about 6 months of working on it on and off to work out what the problem was. It wasn't until we did the timing belt on my sister's L series that it showed up with the same problem. Once dad and I worked out the timing issue on sister's L, mine was running perfect less than an hour later Cheers Bennie