el_freddo

Cases are in pairs so don't swap them around. Make sure the pinion shaft bearing locating pin is locking in place correctly. you may also have to recheck your diff backlash/preload settings. One trick could be backing the side bearing tensioners off a set amount and remember this to readjust properly once the cases are all bolted together up to spec. All the best Bennie

Some of those wires will be for your fuel gauge in the dash. Add the light to that circuit and you should see the fuel gauge move I'd imagine. Good to start with the power side of things. I reckon from what you've described you've got power to the pump. Cheers Bennie

We never got cruise control options on our subarus until the libertys came out in '89. I've got an instrument cluster in bits and can't see anything that resembles a reed switch like the L series clusters have. I plan on dropping the long cluster in with the six gauges - I'll check this out and see if there's a speed sensor built I to it, but I'm not hopeful since it's from an '83/84 model sedan. My brumby is a '90 or '91 model... Cheers Bennie

Have you looked into a weak fuel pump, blocked fuel filter or pickup in the tank? The constant flashes of the ECU is the unit designation. It'll tell you which market it's been designed for. Eg USDM/JDM/AUDM etc. So your ECU does not have any stored codes which is a good thing. The only other thing I can think of is a dodgy O2 sensor that's not yet throwing a code but is upsetting things. Cheers Bennie

I agree fuel pump. Had a similar situation but only occurred once the fuel pump was hot - typically while moving slow in sand 4wd'n. Also check all your fuses Cheers Bennie

Not having much experience with this issue or autos in Subarus I'd be looking for a vacuum leak. Cheers Bennie

That's one of the first hoses I swap out with the EA81 and EA82s. there will be another similar sized hose on the other side of the carb that taps into the heater coolant circuit. Change this one too otherwise it'll be the next source of your frustrations... Cheers Bennie

Sounds good mate. You guys rack up the miles quicker than we do! Look after the outback and the outback will look after you Cheers Bennie

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm trying to keep this low budget so working with what I've got is the goal - and to make it look as factory as possible... I've been supplied some plugs as suggested for the replacement pins. I've used a cam/crank angle sensor as my speed sensor for the aftermarket cruise - the one with the kit was lost. It works a treat so I could always mount a second sensor. I think tapping the ECU and cruise into the same sensor could be asking for trouble. It's looking like I'll be blocking off the EGR - the engine doesn't have one currently. And I'm yet to look closer at the whole evap/charcoal canister setup to work out how to plumb in the purge control solenoid. Moving forward with this, the ECU is mounted in the glovebox, intake manifold cleaned up. Now to get a few bits and pieces from my parts cars at m&d's place (an hr's drive), so need to plan that accordingly. Intake manifold gaskets are ordered too. With the AC wiring - control and reference, I'm casing what needs to be done here. I've read about GD's thoughts on the SPFI conversion. And while I can see where he's Cingular from I'm willing to work through issues of old sensors etc. Low end torque loss over the weber shouldn't be an isse for me as I'm in this for detonation reasons and I want to see if I can squeeze more fuel economy out of the brumby while still having a fun cruiser. Eventually an EJ22 will probably be dropped in. A cheeky snail on the side might make an appearance for S&Gs Dreams though, other priorities seem to have a habit of changing these plans... Cheers Bennie

Possibly key, ignition barrel and security module. Basically get ALL wiring with that engine package you've listed. You basically want the whole car minus the interior, body and suspension... Cheers Bennie

As for the 40k miles "death" of the original spec HGs (if refitted) I can confirm this - although our vehicle is a country car, 90% of it's travelling since we got it is open road at cruising speed. So at about 80k km we've found that bloody lhs head gasket leaking coolant externally. Not. Happy. Jan. I'm aiming to have my sister (it's her car) monitor the fluid levels then replace the HGs with a new timing belt kit once near the belt change interval. Cheers Bennie

Several posts seem to be lost to the update of the forum... is this '82 running yet?? Cheers Bennie

Don't rely on the temp gauge! get an accurate aftermarket one that actually gives you a temp reading/value. If you miss the "heat spike" on the factory gauge it'll then show as running cooler than normal - because it's no good at reading the temp of steam... Job done by then too. Cheers Bennie

^ THAT is mint!! So the wolf is plugged into the Ej20G loom? Nice. Jono, I'd make the runners from the heads to the mixers longer, the theory is short runner = power in the high rev range, long runner = torque down low. Find where you want them to be is the trick. This is apparently why the old safari set up on the VWs directly above the heads made them gutless down low but pick up with a number of revs. Cheers Bennie

The input shaft shouldn't just slip out of the housing. From memory there's a big circlip holding te bearing in place, this should require some light tapping to remove it from the housing. If it slides out I'd suspect there's something wrong. Same for the input shaft and bearing, this needs to be tapped out or pressed out. I've always managed to do it with a mallet and flat end punch. Cheers Bennie

Or it's bolted into a captive nut. I've not removed one of these so really don't know for sure. Cheers Bennie

So what exactly are we trying to work out here? You're comparing two turbo box ratios that are AWD and pt4wd respectively? Or are you comparing the turbo AWD box ratios to the NA pt4wd box? i hope you're not thinking of mis-matching top and bottom gear sets to get a desired set of ratios. For the EA AWD box this is achieved using phase1 EJ AWD gear sets as I'm sure you're already aware of. Cheers Bennie

If you've changed the oil and haven't heard any rod knock you're probably in the clear there. But keep an eye on the coolant level and ensure it doesn't mix with the oil, if it does get onto it ASAP. As for the timing belt kit, change it sooner rather than later, the quality of the belt and bearings in the tensioner's are usually the issue here. They more than likely won't go the distance of the regular change interval. If your belt breaks or skips enough teeth it could cause severe internal engine damage - mashed valves and pistons. Best case scenario is only the valves bend. Cheers Bennie

Awesome when it's an easy fix like that! Cheers Bennie

Thanks GD. Looks like I ordered the dead gaskets and fitted them Cheers Bennie

Sounds awesome. Why drop the turbo ej20? Cheers Bennie

@GeneralDisorder, those head gasket part numbers, are they Subaru part numbers? Guess what's leaking on our liberty that had it's HGs replaced early last year?? Cheers Bennie

As John said - you need the cam and crank gears from your original engine. They'll have different marks on them for the timing of spark and ignition. Swap over and set the cam belt timing correctly should see it fire up. Another thing to check first is all of your plug connections ensuring the cam and crank angle sensors are properly connected (and sensors mounted properly). Cheers Bennie

That top pulley is a tensioner. You can see how it zig zags over/around the alternator's fan belt. Best of luck with it. I reckon you'll find one after a bit of searching. A tensioner pulley from an MY with AC will fit Cheers Bennie

I've been told the pt4wd ea81 4spd is a nightmare level or two above the pt4wd ea82 5spd... The AWD boxes are so much easier to work on Cheers Bennie