el_freddo

Lucky mate! My mum had the same issue in a Range Rover classic coming off a freeway. The throttle wouldn’t release from cruise and she put it into a ditch where she went flying out the other side. This landing released the issue with the throttle and she was able to pull the vehicle up. Damage: shock! Front diff housing was bent and one king pin mount stretched by at least two mm. The rear of the chassis was bent when the rear bar contacted the ditch when the car dragged its arse through the ditch after the front end started up the other side. Bloody scary! Glad yours was an easy fix and not a major issue Jono!! Cheers Bennie

Probably not. Why not just run a surge tank? Cheers Bennie

Are the diagnostics plugs under the dash still connected? (If this model still has them) All the best with finding the fix. I hope it’s a simple one. Cheers Bennie

If your old ones have a hex nut on top of the tube then you can rebuild them. Chasing seals then become an issue. Cheers Bennie

As carfreak said - not bolt in. Some custom mounts will be needed if it fits in the cavity at all. Cheers Bennie

EJ swap it, slip the stock drivetrain under a bench in “storage mode”. EJ swap can be reversible if you do it properly. Cheers Bennie

I found the image of what I did with the angle change I was talking about: https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img401/9123/p7281486.jpg This was over ten years ago and I’m still running the same engine mounts. The EJ18 flywheel won’t make a difference, it’s still the same diametre. It might be lighter though. Glad you got it sorted! Cheers Bennie

I found the image of what I did with the angle change I was talking about: https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img401/9123/p7281486.jpg This was over ten years ago and I’m still running the same engine mounts. The EJ18 flywheel won’t make a difference, it’s still the same diametre. It might be lighter though. Glad you got it sorted! Cheers Bennie

Do a starch on the forum or using google. There’s a full write up about it from what you need to how to do it. Cheers Bennie

I’ve not had this issue and I’m running the EJ22 with the EJ flywheel and clutch sandwiched in front of a hybrid EJ gearbox. My difference is that I’ve got some wedges under the engine mounts to “correct” an apparent angle change between the engine crossmember mount face and that of the EJ engine mount angle. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... interesting that you didn’t get the NA MPFI. Those turbo boys would’ve been hard up looking for replacement heads when needed! Cheers Bennie

You’re after a 4wd rear disc setup. The2wd rear disc hub won’t fit the 4wd. Everything else is basically the same. The 2wd backing plate is only different in the hole for the bearing to pass through. The key is the 4wd rear disc hub. Cheers Bennie

I can confirm what @ferp420 is saying about rear strut length - the 2wd unit is longer than the 4wd unit. As ferp said, this is due to the 4wd unit needing to clear the CV joint of the rear shaft. The 2wd unit has the lower strut/shock mount directly behind the rear wheel axle. As for adjustable struts, the came out on series 1 of the L series, and we’re dropped for fixed height struts on the series 2 - but they are interchangeable. Cheers Bennie

Problem is that the Aussie market is a BIG place and freight isn’t cheap over long distances. We don’t see the L series in yards anymore, even the Gen1 Liberty/Legacy is had to find. @ferp420 - 25 spline diff stubs are also found on the manual NA MPFI EA82. The auto versions is still 23 spline. Cheers Bennie

Try the factory L series unit or rotate the thermostat housing 180*, make an elbow piece to marry to the factory hose and use a small piece of hose for the gap between the adaptor piece and the thermostat housing. The factory L series upper hose would be way easier though! Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum! Bit of a stance nation fan? Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... touring wagon, could be either! One way to do it is to slip an inner CV joint as far as you can and count the splines. It’ll be 23 or 25. Or look at the fuel outlet pipe at the fuel tank to the fuel pump, if it’s 10mm the vehicle was EFI. If it’s closer to 5mm, it was a carb unit. Or if you’re running a surge tank, you probably have a originally carb fed EA82 touring wagon on your hands. Cheers Bennie

It’s more than likely a carb unit originally. Mis your wagon a touring wagon or a DL with the flat roof? If flat roof it’s definitely a carb unit which means 23 spline count on the diff stubs. Cheers Bennie

Geez mate, it’s not Facebook with its millennial instant gratification! This forum is quite friendly, is very active for a forum these days and many members have a lot of knowledge that they’re willing to share. But if you’re going to wallow around in self pity you’re not going to get far on here. In your current situation I know that’s an easy thing to do. I was referencing your second post in this thread. Welcome to the forum Dusty. Have you got a link to a thread about your EJ conversion? Cheers Bennie

Welcome Raynman, I’ve put a set of Repco units into my brumby. Not as good as OEM but the best aftermarket units I’ve come across so far. Cheers Bennie

You might find you’ll get more replies when posting in the 90’s to present sub forum @ElliottAugust Don’t get me wrong, there will be some stez buffs in here, but being specific to your vehicle’s setup I reckon you’d get more specific replies in the other sub forum Cheers Bennie

Be wary of swapping the Torsten bar setups between the wagon and the MV. Apparently (I’ve only heard) the MV’s Torsten rating is higher than that of the wagon. This is the difference between load carrying and ride comfort. While you’ve got the diff and driveshafts out, now is a good time to tackle the inner CV cups that are more than likely welded to the diff output shafts due to rust. With full access you shouldn’t have too much trouble getting these apart. Lube up before reinstalling! Cheers Bennie

That rear end will take it. Just make the upper support for the shock/strut strong enough for the job. If the factory springs don’t handle the weight you want, use a set of front Honda springs from an early 90’s vehicle. But without a body, rear diff, glass etc to support, the factory springs should be good to go. I made a trailer from an MY wagon rear end. Ran without shocks for years, not ideal at the traffic light where it took ages to sit still but it tracked awesome at speed around corners loaded or unladen. It’s now got a set of new shocks on it and the thing is perfect bar the rust in the old Nissan single cab tray tub I’ve got welded on top. It’s carry so much more than it ever should time and time again. Go for it, you won’t regret it! Cheers Bennie

@Ferret54 - EJ engine. EA was L series and MY prior to the EJ series engine beginning in ’89 Cheers Bennie

(Edit) There are two belt types, and two SOHC sizes. DOHC = double overhead cams and SOHC =,single overhead cams (shorter belt than the DOHC) It does not matter what year your EJ engine is - the belt requirement depends on whether it’s DOHC or SOHC. Tensioner type doesn’t matter! Both systems have a tensioner, two smooth idlers and one cogged idler. Later DOHC’s have a small smooth idler between the tensioner and the intake cam wheel. Cheers Bennie