el_freddo

I stand corrected - I counted both belt types (phase 1 and phase 2 SOHC) as I just pulled an EJ22 down yesterday. I was very surprised to see the size difference. And I got the same tooth count as you. Above post edited to stop miss information. Cheers Bennie

Not keyboard, auto correct @Rafavidmess - why are you swapping discs from the wagon to the brat? The vented discs are WAY BETTER!! Cheers Bennie

Welcome DarkstaR! Plenty of info on the forum. Cheers Bennie

Welcome @deezel05 - start you own thread. I too am from Oz. I’m a “backyarder” and have worked on a hand full of EJ engines in terms of head gaskets. I don’t agree with your EJ251 oil consumption comment, I find they usually drop more oil than what they consume - but that’s my experience. For your questions, start a new thread to get attention and replies. My question to you is why you want to close deck the block? It’s really not needed, if you’re chasing massive power then yes, but at that point you’d be doing a crank swap etc too. Cheers Bennie

You sounds like the boys from a “Night at the Roxbury” “WE GOT A NUMBER!!” Cheers Bennie

Repco might list a separate part under the turbo L series. This will cover the MPFI NA EA82 as well. But you’ve got the carby 23 spline shafts. Now you know that you should be sorted. Cheers Bennie

Not tried this. Be very careful cutting open and working on used fuel tanks. Boom boom if not done correctly! Cheers Bennie

Sorry, a 1.5 litre EJ? Power?? Sorry, couldn’t help myself. On a serious note, have you checked for codes from the ecu (if it has one)? Or looked into the coolant temp sensor? If it’s running a dizzy, is there an issue in there? Cheers Bennie

So your conversion uses the coil wiring from the brat or the donor loom? Is the fuel pump powered through the beat loom or the donor loom? It should be powered by the ECU which takes its triggers from the optical dizzy from the donor vehicle. If this is kaput, you need another dizzy. I have no idea how to check these things Cheers Bennie

As per here: link dropped to keep it tidy - I’ll reply in there with my question about your setup. Cheers Bennie

Lucky mate! My mum had the same issue in a Range Rover classic coming off a freeway. The throttle wouldn’t release from cruise and she put it into a ditch where she went flying out the other side. This landing released the issue with the throttle and she was able to pull the vehicle up. Damage: shock! Front diff housing was bent and one king pin mount stretched by at least two mm. The rear of the chassis was bent when the rear bar contacted the ditch when the car dragged its arse through the ditch after the front end started up the other side. Bloody scary! Glad yours was an easy fix and not a major issue Jono!! Cheers Bennie

Probably not. Why not just run a surge tank? Cheers Bennie

Are the diagnostics plugs under the dash still connected? (If this model still has them) All the best with finding the fix. I hope it’s a simple one. Cheers Bennie

If your old ones have a hex nut on top of the tube then you can rebuild them. Chasing seals then become an issue. Cheers Bennie

As carfreak said - not bolt in. Some custom mounts will be needed if it fits in the cavity at all. Cheers Bennie

EJ swap it, slip the stock drivetrain under a bench in “storage mode”. EJ swap can be reversible if you do it properly. Cheers Bennie

I found the image of what I did with the angle change I was talking about: https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img401/9123/p7281486.jpg This was over ten years ago and I’m still running the same engine mounts. The EJ18 flywheel won’t make a difference, it’s still the same diametre. It might be lighter though. Glad you got it sorted! Cheers Bennie

I found the image of what I did with the angle change I was talking about: https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img401/9123/p7281486.jpg This was over ten years ago and I’m still running the same engine mounts. The EJ18 flywheel won’t make a difference, it’s still the same diametre. It might be lighter though. Glad you got it sorted! Cheers Bennie

Do a starch on the forum or using google. There’s a full write up about it from what you need to how to do it. Cheers Bennie

I’ve not had this issue and I’m running the EJ22 with the EJ flywheel and clutch sandwiched in front of a hybrid EJ gearbox. My difference is that I’ve got some wedges under the engine mounts to “correct” an apparent angle change between the engine crossmember mount face and that of the EJ engine mount angle. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... interesting that you didn’t get the NA MPFI. Those turbo boys would’ve been hard up looking for replacement heads when needed! Cheers Bennie

You’re after a 4wd rear disc setup. The2wd rear disc hub won’t fit the 4wd. Everything else is basically the same. The 2wd backing plate is only different in the hole for the bearing to pass through. The key is the 4wd rear disc hub. Cheers Bennie

I can confirm what @ferp420 is saying about rear strut length - the 2wd unit is longer than the 4wd unit. As ferp said, this is due to the 4wd unit needing to clear the CV joint of the rear shaft. The 2wd unit has the lower strut/shock mount directly behind the rear wheel axle. As for adjustable struts, the came out on series 1 of the L series, and we’re dropped for fixed height struts on the series 2 - but they are interchangeable. Cheers Bennie

Problem is that the Aussie market is a BIG place and freight isn’t cheap over long distances. We don’t see the L series in yards anymore, even the Gen1 Liberty/Legacy is had to find. @ferp420 - 25 spline diff stubs are also found on the manual NA MPFI EA82. The auto versions is still 23 spline. Cheers Bennie

Try the factory L series unit or rotate the thermostat housing 180*, make an elbow piece to marry to the factory hose and use a small piece of hose for the gap between the adaptor piece and the thermostat housing. The factory L series upper hose would be way easier though! Cheers Bennie