ccrinc

Jseabolt: what is your altitude? Something I've discovered many people don't take into account is how "high" they are, although the local gasoline companies do. (Like in Colorado, "regular" is 85, while mid-grade is 87, premium is 89 or 91.) What Subaru recommends as preferred octane is based on the car being at sea level. Higher altitude requires lower octane. In your case, it seems that you're experiencing the reverse however. But, it made me curious about it. Just a thought, but you may be on to something. Emily

1) Do you not check your oil regularly? All newer cars can/do use oil (and sometimes coolant). At any rate, you need to get into the habit of checking your oil. 2) That engine only holds a little over 4 qts. of oil. You are down by about 3 qts. DO NOT DRIVE IT without adding more oil. In fact, I wouldn't drive it at all. Have it towed to the dealer. You probably already have bearing damage. 3) Knowing it had run low at least once before, why would you drive over 4500 miles without checking it? What kind of oil are you using? Dino, part synthetic, full synthetic? Even with full syn, I never let my car go over 5,000 miles at the very most without an oil change. Subaru's "7500 between changes" is BS. Sorry, but the oil usage on this generation of Subarus is well documented. Good luck with the dealer. Emily

I have a couple of stickers that will add at least 20hp for ya!

Falkens and Yokohamas are great tires. I have run Goodyear RAs on 2 Foresters now. It's a light vehicle and I just wanted the better "grab" I got from them. As long as you get a true all season that is M+S and at least S speed rated, you should be good. Emily

You gave a car with 155 hp a triple whammy: full load, high temps and the AC going, all while doing 100mph. Oh, and mountains. Of course, it's going to stress it. What you experienced is normal. I do not recommend trying to run up mountains with the AC on anyway: it's always a loss of power and hard on the engine and cooling system. Pressure check the cooling system and do an oil change. If it's running ok otherwise, you should be good. Emily

Blouch Turbo in Lebanon, PA. Excellent quality reman'd turbos. Good prices. Have used them for years. Emily

NGK is either OEM or definitely acceptable. (This is coming from someone who always advocates Genuine parts for the O2 sensors.) Emily

On the EZ30 engine, the water pump is inside the front metal timing cover. They are nearly indestructible, are run by the crankshaft and cannot leak outside the engine unless the front and rear timing covers come unsealed. Look to something outside of the engine itself. Hoses, connectors, etc. There are a bunch of them that could be leaking, and only under pressure. Emily

We also offer a discount to USMB members: mention it at the time of order. Emily

Also, the mounting for the PCV valve is VERY different. Emily

I have to disagree with the above opinions. Once a rod bearing starts to go, it will only continue until, ultimately, you will throw a rod and/or the engine wlll seize completely. . Also, that bearing material is circulating throughout your entire engine, doing its best to clog other oil passages (like to the cams). This is not an "if", it's a "when". The bearing is shedding material and it won't stop until it disintegrates completely. Any mechanic who tell you "it's not a big deal" is a complete idiot or someone who just didn't want to address the problem. The vast majority of the engines we build are due to being run low on oil or lack of oil changes and therefore, compromised rod and/or main bearings. This is NOT a minor issue. It is the death knell of the engine. Period. ps: Don't even attempt a 600 mile trip with a bad rod bearing. It will end in tears. Emily

On this engine, it's not the chains themselves that go bad: it's the tensioners due to lack of regular oil changes. They are lubricated by the engine oil and if they fail, the engine is toast. I bought one with a known overheat issue for more than this (but gorgeous otherwise), we rebuilt the engine and I drove it for years until 2 spine surgeries made it hard for me to get into it. Honestly, at $2750, you can hardly go wrong. Emily

The motor. At least, that's what it sounded like. Emily

It's broke. It happens. If it was me, I'd be looking for a replacement about now unless you feel like disassembling it and fixing it, if possible. Emily

Did you take off the sensor on that side? And maybe put it back incorrectly? Otherwise, electrical wouldn't have any effect on the TGV. Good video about it: Emily

Engine block numbers mean nothing. We think they "may" be casting numbers only. The VIN, if it's on the block, can give you information. There's are multiple posts on this site on how to decipher it. Emlly

Sounds like something electrical is connected backwards. A WRX has crazy wiring with full redundancy in the wiring for all systems. Go back and check all your power connections, even at the battery terminals.

Go see the Facebook forum. Everybody needs to remember to contribute from time to time. Keeping up a website ain't free! Emily ps: Thanks, Shawn. (All you had to do was ask, ya know.)

We've used that style for years, like back when only SnapOn sold them. Work like a charm! Most auto parts stores have them now too, even Walmart (I think). Emily

Yeah, dealer is NOT the place to buy rings. That blue and white box equal about a 1000 % markup. Try an import store, or ebay. Emily

Rings: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Piston-Ring-Set-DNJ-PR719-fits-99-01-Subaru-Impreza-2-2L-H4-/161806428020?fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item25ac6a2774:g:5oQAAOSwjVVV3geL&vxp=mtr Seriously, from your description, there is no reason not to re-use the pistons. Emily

First, NDC outsourced their bearings to China (OEM to Subaru)...we quit buying them. Then ACL did, except for their race bearings, which are unobtainium. We refused to use King bearings years ago, but their quality has improved exponentially, especially on their race bearings, so that's what we use now. Still, 2005 had some really quirky issues over even later years. Years of change always do that. Emily

They're all over ebay. Also, NPR is the co. which makes them for Subaru. We've always used them and they are top quality. OTOH, Mahle brand make our head builder just go nuts: they're impossible to work with. However, with your description, I'd just re-use them. Put them back in the cylinders they were in originally. Emily

In a '99, it's rear thrust. All of them are after mid-1998. They could be either 48 or 52mm, depending on date of manufacture. Emily

You said you've had pinging problems for a long time. According to my information, you should have been able to run regular unleaded with no problems. Since you couldn't, that's pointing toward air/fuel mixture in some way. Knock sensor, MAF/MAP, etc. If it's as bad as you say, I'm going out on (yet another) limb here and thinking you have a cracked ring landing on a piston. As for testing, compression is always a good one, but a leak down test will better tell you WHERE the problem is coming from, unless you have obviously bad compression in one or more cylinders. I don't know why, but 2005 Subarus just had some really oddball issues. There is another thing that comes to mind: make sure all your grounding straps are secure. See your owners manual or a repair manual: there are several. Emily