WAWalker

Subaru's are unibody, without the roof for structural support you will fold that thing in half.

Funny looking Chevy dully:)

What year?

Should be.

A 2003 will not be covered buy the "stop leak" campaign. Subaru claims to have fixed the external head gasket leak in mid 2002. NOT TRUE. My wife just picked up another 2003 Legacy SE, 35k miles. Drivers side head gasket has been replaced. It is a little hard to see but check the bottom rear corner of drivers side head gasket. That my be were your coolant is leaking.

Classic symtoms of leaking HG's. Does the coolant recovery bottle have a black scum build up in it? Have cooling system checked for hydrocarbons.

If the engine is out of the car you can shine a light up into the exhaust ports, turn the engine over and visualy inspect the exhaust valves.

I was refuring to the front axles. Legacy, Imp, and Forester REAR axles have no dust sheild on the outboard CV joint. The front wheel bearings only have one inner seal, an oil seal, and then the dust sheild on the axle to keep dirt out. The rear wheel bearing has two inner seals, an oil seal and a dust seal, no dust sheild on axle. Living in Montana I don't have to deal with a lot of rusty cars, but have had the misfourtion from time to time, as this is a collage town. So I have seen the rusty rear CV joint that you speek of. Another recomendation would be to pack the area between the oil seal and the dust seal with water proof grease.

The reason for replacing the axles along with the wheel bearings, when car is driven in a "rust belt", is that the seal surface on the axle gets rusty and pitted. As long as your axles have the dust sheild on them you don't have to worry about dirt eating the seals. Unfortunetly the axle remanufactures are getting lazy and not putting dust sheilds on the remaned units. From what I've seen most shops replaceing axles with remans that don't have dust sheilds are to lazy to take the dust sheild from the old axle and install on the replacment.

OK, so I had to read the manual. Only the rear most lateral link has adjustment. According to the '98 OB FSM, that is used to adjust toe and trust angle. There isn't any factory adjustment for rear camber. So if doing a suspesion lift you will probably need cam bolts for the rear in order to get the camber right.

Ther is no adjustment in the trailing arm on a Subaru. Adjusting the length of a trailing arm would not change the camber anyway.

No there are two lateral links on each side.

I think just crank pullies at the moment.

I don't do alignment work so I'm not real sure how it works. But there is adjustment in both of the lateral links. Adjusting both should change the camber, and adjusting just the front or rear seperatly should change the toe. Like I said I'm not an alignment guy so I don't really know.

If any changes are made to a part the part number also changes. The 60k 2.2L timing belt, part number 13028AA102 has never been superceded as far as I know. Still a prime orderable number.

How can any one possibly claim to know the % of 2.5L engines that have or will have HG failure? I have seen them go over 180k before HG failure. Have you owned the car since it was new? If purcased used, do you know for a fact that the head gaskets have not been done?

In the rear the adjustment is done with cam bolts at the inboard end of the lateral links. The adjustment is there from the factory, front and rear.

You should use a torque wrench on the knock sensor.

You should use a torque wrench on the knock sensor.

Timing belt replacement interval on ALL 2.5L Subaru engines is 105k. The belt has probably been changed at some point, because the front crank seal would never go 164k without leaking. The belt usually gets changed when the front crank seal is replaced. Chances are the head gaskets have also been done on a 164k mile engine.

Your car already has a cam bolt in the top hole. If that isn't enough adjustment then your should be able to get a couple of junk yard cam bolts for the bottom holes. Who ever was doing your alignment would have to be made aware that there were two cam bolts on each side.

ASSuming this is a 2.5L DOHC engine (Year or model info has been provided). When these head gaskets go coolant is not leaking into the cylinders, there for no white smoke. You start loosing power only when the pistons and cylinders get so hot and expaned to the point of seezing the engine. If it is HG there will be evidence of HC's in the cooling system. With these engines HG problems are a given after 100k. If you have one and are concerned, do a search, lots of threads here.

There aren't any replaceable seals. Were the tracks meet the framework of the sunroof assembly there was a sealant applied. Said sealant gets hard and starts cracking. Clean along the track the best you can and reseal with silicon. To 100% reseal these they really need to be removed front the car. Not a fun job. There are 4 drains to check, one on each front corner that run down the A pillar, one on each rear corner that run down the C pillar

Not without a lot of custom parts and $$$.

Well maybe I'm just a pessimist. But in reality, people have for years been spending money to try and save money, and usually spend more than they will ever end up saving. Pay extra for a hybrid car so you don't have to pay at the pump......................so your still spending the money. But I guess you do have the warm fuzzy feeling of saving the world, thats worth somthing. I love the idea of solar power. Looked into the cost of running an entire home on solar. Not exactly cost effective. At the time the estimate was 30-40 years for a system like that to pay for itself. Don't remember how long the panels last, but it's not forever, so they will need to be replaced. Batteries need to be replaced........................................good idea but in my world the math don't work.