NorthCoast

https://www.facebook.com/northcoast344/videos/344760212541426/

The new owner has already posted in this thread and I'm sure he'll keep the updates coming. I just need to help him through the mountain of other projects that are in line in front of it.

I wish it was mine but it is with someone who will see the project completed.

Smiley has a new home. Luckily it's a good home and not parted out or at the salvage yard.

You need a seat from a 00-04 Outback. Those have electric seat height adjustment.

LOL... you never drive with your head inside the car anyway so while all the fuss.

Keep the cage inside. You're not racing so you don't need to use the fire retardant padding. Use something softer and you won't need to wear a helmet.

Rally America and NASA Rallysport rules. Offroad racing is typically .120

My rally car. I don't think you need to go that crazy. I was think of doing just a main hoop with bars back to the rear strut towers for Stella. I do enjoy the security / handling characteristics of a full cage though.

I used 1.75 x .095 for the main hoop, the half laterals (A pillar to main hoop), windshield bar and sill bars (everything gray). Everything else is 1.5 x .095.

I know it's running. Where's the update?

That's a Friday El Jefe! As much as I would like to go I'll be out in the woods from 9/11 to 9/20 trying to fill my freezer for the winter.

Yes. The car had no engine when it came to me so I put one in. Original engine was pulled and rebuilt by the PO and now powers a Toyota truck.

I don't know where this resistor myth is coming from but I was the one who replaced the engine and never wired in a resistor. Just adding an EGR harness with the solenoid was all it took. Nothing more.

Switched to an EGR harness and tied the EGR solenoid vac lines in. No more CEL.

PM sent.

EJ22 had the code right before I did the swap along with both o2 sensor codes. I replaced both O2 sensors... perhaps it just needs to run a full cycle. I double check the vac lines to see if one popped off.

The only thing that changed was the block and head gaskets. No extra plugs or wires cut.

Other than installing a new Frankenmotor? No highway miles...it's a wheeler. The car rarely gets driven. Code comes back right away.

Not a newb John, of course the rear diff matches the trans. The code is the only thing keeping me from getting new tabs. I was looking to see if anyone had come up with a legitimate way to fix the code either by grounding pin 81 or by using a resistor. I really don't want to try and find an EGR manifold especially when this has never been an issue in the past.

Now you're just replacing good parts with good parts. Stop wasting time and money. Slow down and recheck grounds and power with a meter thoroughly. Start at the battery and work your way forward. It's most likely going to be something stupid and you'll face-palm yourself when you find it.

I got the same code with another ECU. It currently has and has always had a non-EGR engine and intake.

A couple of weeks. Got the CEL right before I went in for emissions testing. I've had the car for a few years now.

Very rare for them to go bad. Double check everything. Autowrecking.com will ship you one with a 30 day guarantee for $65.

1997 Impreza Outback Sport EJ25D with EJ22E heads and intake Original trans code: TZ102ZA5AA Current trans code: TZ102Z2CBA Mileage and color really don't matter. Current ECU is marked "3W". No idea if that is the stock one but I'm pretty sure it is.