ivans imports

+1 timing jumped or burnt valve or stuck injector use long screwdriver to listen to injectors for clicking and can pull one injector plug at a time to narrow down what cly is not working

Clean up grounds on coil bracket to firewall and add ground wire from - batt post to bottom coil bracket bolt then try

Mine is stock have been trying to get collector plates for it

The memory saver could have putt ecu into limp mode or battery was hooked up in wrong order and damaged something I would try disconnecting - side of batt let it sitt over night reconnect and try again. Have seen many cars badly damaged from poor battery installs and inexperience.

Have a nice restored 80 brat very clean no rust 5000$ 100 % complete

The VC changed in 96-97 years from a stacked clutchpack with plates and diff. To sealed VC that is unit design I have been fixing the late model ones by installing a early model one in place have to change the whole rear assembly of trans but get a better unit in the end. Jaming up when trying to backup is the snap ring on VC poped out getting between the teeth of the awd transfer gears. Makes a mess seen this many many times bad VC unit

And all in one sentence !!! the shims behind the bearing are key they are matched to trans unit and must be reused back lash can be checked buy Prushin blue or by feel. by holding both axle outputs and turning pinion to feel backlash. As long as no changes were made to side bearings is no need to move crown gear

Have a 79 chevy short Buss 410 hp built engine tows my race buggy and looks cool doing it { YES WE DID SHOWUP AT THE RACE IN THE SHROT BUS } pulling the short buggy

Vacume leak exhaust leak idle to high timing to far advanced my 80 brat gives a pop when I shut it off. Vacume advance or mec advance sticking on idle should be 800-950. idle at 1300 with screw backed out sounds like vacume leak check hoses and intake gaskets

I rebuild my own

Have had a run of bad pinion bearings on 99-02 outbacks come in with trans whine in front diff two in one week noise gets louder the faster the car go's. When I got trans apart found the pinion bearing had lost the coating on some of the rollers and had damaged the race. Installed the new bearing from Subaru 195$ and 6.5 hours later fixed for under 1000$ customer was quoted 4700$ from dealer to fix this. Was some time involved to set crown and pinion backlash but was easy to check. Anyway wondering what that front diff noise is

Check cam belt timing or diss is one tooth off I have changed the cam gear in position involved but can be done is keyed onto the end of cam and presses off. Have seen many ruin this gear

Just for radio noise the most important thig is that the coil braket is grounded 100% They also had plugs going to nowere for Subaru test diagnostic tool to hook up and check ig circuit that's what I think you are looking at

Check the gear on end of cam for knife edging have seen many a ea82 running with diss out 180 and they used #4 as #1 to get it to run like that good old ea80eww

Sorry note the pos of interlocks

have done it many times is the last part you get to inside the trans and must be torn down to diff but diff dosent have to be removed just snap rings a 90 degree snapring plyers is important tool for this job. And extreme care must be taken to not pos of interlocks on shifting mec

You can remove top half of carb remove float and needle and undo seat is 10 mm or flat screw the screen is on the bottom of that you can cheat by removing the fuel line fitting and peek in with a good light and see if its pluged

the svx one come up with very little clearance the less the better I use whole svx stack with all the svx steels I set all awd clutch packs as tight as I can get them

Have had dozens of cars with rear wire harness problems putting car in limp mode

And a 2nd one came in bad pinion bearing two in a row 98 outback this one new pinion bearing is under 200$ so is worth fixing

I bett I do will look most are long blocked off that I see

Find a hitachi dis for it Nippon ones not so good also have you checked the fuel pump timer ? and the screen in the carb on the neddle and seat was a problem on those carbed cars screen pluged up and bypassed carb = no fuel

Have had good luck using the clutchpack from svx to upgrade the out backs and legacys awd was a stronger pack with better steels and clutchs

had one two days ago the cogged gear came right out and hit the car behind was a 80 year old lady scared her bad and 16 bent valves dead on the freeway so you are lucky !

I put the duel piston calipers and rotors from 98 outback on my 97 impreza worked great no problems and stops way faster and added a 2nd E brake lever for better offroad turns Liken the rear drums with twin ebrakes