turbosubarubrat

Yes after you modify the linkage to work. Which requires a welder and a metal cutting tool of your choice. I know jerry on here makes the linkage kits on here for the d/r. You would just take off the d/r linkage or send him yours.

I doubt you want it. It's made out of 2 paint roller pans. You can go buy 2 yourself cheaper than coming out to me and getting them.

Its the same as swapping in a dual range minus having to figure out the d/r linkage. You have to have the push button electrical/vacuum stuff too. If it's a wheeler just get a d/r if its just a on street go with the s/r.

I'm going to part it completely. The things i'm keeping are the front end, rear disks, trans, drive line, rear diff, fly wheel and bolts, air shock stuff if i ever decide to do that, and maybe the muffler. Everything else i'm selling.

I'm using the 3.9 trans above in my hatch back so i bought this. It's a 85 gl10 turbo sedan. Has the 5 speed d/r 3.7 with open rear diff and disk brakes. Has working digi dash, ride height but front struts have been replaced with kyb's, cruise control, power everything, and rx interior minus front seats. ea82t is shot with almost no compression in all 4 cylinders. I think the heads cracked, rings leak, bad head gaskets, ect. The guy said it was ran at 10 psi of boost i think it was more like 20 psi since its only got 160k.

Here's the donor hit hard in the front and the passenger side is messed up pretty bad

I just used transmission hose.

5 speed d/r adapter plate from my friend Patrick at ADF ea82 clutch tool Started working on the 6" lift by putting F-350 rear shocks with subaru bar pin and bottom metal bushing

That problem will probably go away once you get some meatier tires.

One of my friends is going to attend this. He builds custom axles and just finished a set of axles last week for some one that is going to this. The tube car puts out over 700hp. It has a custom suspension setup for when it goes over jumps so the chamber goes like this / \ to absorb the hard landings instead of breaking tons of parts by the end of the race.

I might still have the metal part of the return line from when i was piecing the motor back together. I would think subaru would be able to get you those parts. If they could get me the oil return line for a ea81t which is about 3ft then i think they could find the coolant return for a ea82t. I never ordered the part though since it would of taken 3 months to get it by boat plus i found the line later. Since i never posted what i did to fix.

Here's the left side. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-784910650-GENUINE-OEM-LENS-/331420482369?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru%7CModel%3ABrat&hash=item4d2a333b41&vxp=mtr

Yes with a adapter plate which Prwa101 can sell you.

If you plan to wheel it just swap in a ej22. It's practically the same amount of work especially if your car is carb'd. The ea82t's have problems in normal use but even worse when being hot rodded or wheeled. The ea82 is a good motor its self for what it was designed to do. They will last over 300k if well maintained. But, to answer your questions yes you need to buy a turbo ecm or wire it to a mega squirt. Yes 87's have ecm's depending on if their carb'd or fuel injected and depending on where their from. Yes you do need a turbo harness or you have to wire your own in with a unit like a mega squirt. No you don't need to swap cross members. I could bolt in a ea82t into a brat but it's a huge waste of time and effort. But if your doing something like Quidam that is badass and never done before like this i would say go for it. Find a legacy with a bad transmission/wrecked and do a ej swap. Or in the very least get a ea81 with a weber carb or spfi swap.

I'm out in Sandy Oregon so i'm fairly close to you. I have 3 ea81's. One would be a drop in, it ran fine but had the tick of death over 200k not sure when head gaskets were done it it either. I think the lifters are worn because they are hydraulic or the oil pump needs rebuilt. Another has a blown head gasket 170k and the last has a stuck valve 161k. Also have lots of other ea81 parts: carbs, intakes, exhaust, emission parts, heads, ect.

I will trade you a manual steering rack and crossmember. I notched the passenger side because i was running a header but kept the piece i cut out, so i can weld it back in and grind down the welds. Mine has to come down anyway so i might as well swap to power, since a 6" lift plus 30" or so tires would be a good idea to have.

Have had a bunch of parts come in the mail for this the past couple weeks. Set of old new stock kyb strut inserts, rancho 5241 rear shocks, mr. gasket manual 1-6 psi fuel pressure regulator, rebuilt motorcraft escort distributor, and redline weber jet kit.

I'm ending up getting a set of monroe rear shocks meant for a 95 f-350 4wd 4.9 from orileys . These set of monroes off ebay will work too, so will rancho rs7256's . Here is the spec sheet of rancho 5241's.

Lifting my hatch 6" and need to get a new set of rear shocks. I have done my research on this through the off road threads, google search, ect and have came up with almost nothing. In a few threads i have heard some might fit, i don't remember what i used, or they just clocked their torsion bar and used a set of rancho 5241 shocks. I have found plenty of info for 3" and 4" lifts which is what most use the rancho 5241 shocks for. The rancho 9000 shocks work but i don't want to get into air suspension on this. Thought i would ask here before i went to the parts store.

Yep just slowly. I bought a rebuilt motorcraft distributor for it the other day just need the plug for the distributor now... Been working on this more. I have the engine and transmission pulled. The 5 speed d/r ready to go with the adapter plate tapped and bolted on minus the linkage needed to be modified. 6 inch lift almost finished thanks to scubaroo84. Already have a ea82 fuel injected pump ready to go. Just need to part out the legacy now. I am going to unwrap the harness and get Prwa101 to help me strip it down. So this thing could be running and driving in 2 or 3 weeks.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131197-subaru-rear-diff-code/. If you match the right pinion and rear gear you should be fine.

That is carb'd.

I just run regular gas in my stuff and they're fine. Lately i've been running 10w40 oil which quieted down some noisy lifters. If the transmission and rear diff oil haven't been changed in awhile i would do that(75w90 gear oil). How much oil does she leak? You might need to ditch the oil pan gasket with rtv after cleaning, replace main seals, and valve cover gaskets along with valve clearance adjustment on that solid lifter motor. How many miles? You might be looking at getting a full gasket set so everything will be ready to go for a long time.

I'm not talking about a 5 speed push button out of a 3rd gen. There are single range 4 speeds with a single range and a lever(i'm also not talking about a 1st gen). They had fat case ea71's in early second gen cars 79-81 with a single range that is the same bolt pattern as ea81 engines. It's unlikely he has one but it is still a possibility.

Or he got a 2nd gen dl trans with only 4 high. If it has a brat motor swapped in it's possible, but might or might not be the case.