Frank B

Someone tried this years ago on a legacy, I can't remember who. They also used the electric clutch activated SC. But, they used an NA engine destroyed the engine, twice if I remember correctly.

You can always remove the Ebrake cables from the calipers, just to see if that's it. If so, replace the cables. If not, replace/rebuild the calipers. They may just be gunked up and need cleaning and new grease on the slides. The vibration, maybe the brakes rubbing, tires need to be balanced, worn steering parts, etc.

The SPFI, throttle body injection, doesn't have a place on the fuel rail, or even have a fuel rail. It's just a high pressure rubber fuel line to the throttle body. You need to install a tee in the line, then connect the gauge to it. This may be of some help; http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm

It's best to bring your old axle with you when you pick up the new one, or be sure they order the right one. 2 wheel drive vs 4 wheel drive, auto vs manual, turbo vs non-turbo.

Here's a few posts in the USRM to get you going. Don't get frustrated, you really don't know what your doing untill you do 3 or 4 of these. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77491 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75786

Can you hear the "bubbles" from inside the car or with your head next to the fuel lines? These cars are famous for water rushing sounds coming from the heater box behind the dash. Mybe this is un-related and it just means the heater core needs a flush. It would be best to get a fuel pressure gauge to test the fuel pressure, unless you can get a new/used fuel pump cheap enough. Hve you checked for fault codes? Connect the green(?) test connectors near the brake booster, pull the panel from under the steering column and look for the flashing light with the key on, engine not running. It's all here; http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

Did you have 100% antifreeze in it or 50/50 mix? I ask becuase if it was 50/50 , it would appear as if half the coolant disapeared. Only the antifreeze would be left, or part of it. The water boiled off, that was the steam. Like the others said, you need to find the source of the problem. It may have just been a sticking thermostat, could have been the water pump, could have been an intake gasket. Now that it's cool, top it off with water, look for leaks, double check everything else, and start it up. I have had the temp guage maxxed out on my last ea81 and it was fine.

Clean it all off. The engine, hood, everything. Drive it then inspect. Engine oil, AC compressor oil, and power steering fluid all SMELL different. After you get some fresh oil spray, smell it. Then look for fresh oil on the engine/components.

I have those Felpro on my Loyale, held up a lot longer than any others I've used, untill the stud fell out.................

This link works http://video.kenblockracing.com/flash/player/ That's easier with more HP.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__ELECTRONIC-ADJUSTABLE-SHOCKS-FOR-1981-96-F150-BRONCO_W0QQitemZ290273351441QQadiZ2865QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item290273351441&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A543%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 Electronically adjustable, soft for the street, then flip the swith to firm it up a bit for the trail.

It could also be a relay, like the fuel pump relay, getting hot. When it sits for the five minutes it cools off enough to work again. I haven't heard of this in a subaru yet, but in other makes it's common. I believe all the relays in the subes are the same throughout the car, it's a 4 spade relay. So you could swap out the fuel pump relay with say, the ac realy and take it for a drive. It does sound like an electrical component heating up.

That's what I did! First the come a long, then a cheap chain hoist. I think if I were to be doing a lot of this, I'd mount an electric winch with block and tackle.

Are the beams, or rafters in your garage exposed? Or can you access them easily? If so, double up one of the trusses, the entire triangle shape with it's supports and trow a chain around it. Buy a chain hoist or even a come-a-long. I pulled an EA82, EJ22, and suspended a riding mower like that.

Get some quality carb cleaner, I like Berkible 2+2 gumcutter, and spray everything. Scrub the parts with a rag or soft wire brush. I like to spray some carb cleaner into the cans cap and soak the jets and small parts while cleaning up everything else. Be sure to drive out the roll pin that blocks the idle mixture screw on the front of the carb so you can adjust that after you install it. And replace the fuel filter(s). Good luck

I am thinking about a 96, or maybe it was a 98, Legacy Wagon that needs an engine. "It needs an engine due to oil loss" is all I know. The rest of the car looks great so it may be worth the time to replace the engine. But what years 2.2 can be used? I'll confirm the year to be more accurate.

Well if your choke was closed, that would cover all the symptoms you described, except the high idle. Unless the choke linkage was holding the carb on fast idle.

That heavy wire may be a fusible link. All a fusible link is is a finer piece of wire with a "softer" insulation so it will burn up undar a high amp load before the harness does. It may have been repaired with a universal piece.

The fast idle solenoid for the ac should be adjustable, but it is normal for it to be higher when the ac is on, but I don't know at what rpm. I would say 1000 tops. You may have to rebuild the carb, not hard really, just try to get an OEM kit. The ASV valve may be leaking too, the one that lets air from the intake into the exhaust for emissions. It has a reed valve in it and if it fails it will allow exhaust into the intake and screw things up a bit. Also check that the EGR isn't sticking open. Clean the PCV.

The drips are probably spaced that way becasue they're coming off of the crossmember. When the valve cover gaskets, oil pan, oil pump leak oil, it will run down the engine, onto the crossmember, and drip off. All of these gaskets will need to be replaced. The oil pan is easy, as GD memntioned. I had removed the two motor mount nuts and jacket the engine up about two inches, it really helped. But you also have to remove the exhaust, or just unbolt it from the heads and tie it up so it doesn't fall. With the engine up you can get to the rear bolts better. Use a #3 phillips screwdriver. I used a wire wheel in my corded drill to remove the bits of hard, ol gasket after scraping most of it off with a screwdriver. The wheel did a great job. Whipe the gasket surfaces with paint thinner or brake clean before installing the gasket. Be careful not to overtighten the exhaust studs or you WILL strip out the threads in the heads, then you will have to use a helicoil to repair them. You may have to do this anyway since the threads sometimes come out with the bolts so be prepared. And use new exhasut gaskets too OEM is best as with all the gaskets. It's a good time to replace the oxygen sensor, if equipped. If you replace the oil pump, or just it's gasket, remove the four bolts that hold it onto the front of the engine, then loosen the bolt above it, and below it that hold the two sides of the engine case together. Don't remove them, just back them off to relieve some pressure on the pump. The pull the pump forward, do not pry it or it can and will break. If it only comes out a bit, spray some penetrating oil in there then push it back on, and try again. Valve cover gaskets are easy too, pop off the breather hoses, remove the small bolts holding them on, and do the same as the oil pan, scrape, wire wheel, wipe, etc. Then clean the engine to get the oil off and check in a few days for any more leaks.

I can't remember what brand was in it. But I did put the Bosch O2 in it shortly after I bought it as part of the initial tune up. I never suspected it untill there was nothing else to replace or adjust! Just make sure you have no exhaust leaks before the O2, it will suck outside air into the exhaust under load and create a false signal form the O2.

Ebay.com amazon.com http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder/slide-show?ie=UTF8&partsNode=15719731&carId=002 Napaonline autozone.com etc. etc. I find a ton of parts deals by simply looking up all the parts numbers for the part I need, and looking on Ebay or Amazon. Most of the parts stores with onlione shopping will ship to your door. AMazon sometimes has parts with free shipping. Some of us bought two NEW front axles shipped for $100! But that deal is gone now. Also, it will be easier if you look up parts for an 84. In 85 the EA82 cars were available and it gets confusing in the parts books. Rockauto will sometimes have closeout deals too!

First get a carb rebuild kit, OEM if you can, and clean up the carburetor. It sounds like the idle circuit is gummed up. Use a quality carb cleaner too, like Berkible Gumcutter 2+2. And remove the plugs, check the gap and the condition of them. The electrodes should be flat, not curved(indicates wear), and the white porcelain insulator should be tan, not black. Replace plug wires, and a new distributor cap and rotor. The boots should be available, but be sure to clean and regrease the joints. You do have to remove the axles, and disassemble them to do all this you know, but it's easy. Regrease the wheel bearings and replace the wheel seals at this time as well. Your rattling noise may be the bushings, mine does that.

Good tip for roadside repairs!

I had a similar surging with an 89 gl-10, I replaced the nearly new Bosch O2 with a BWD, (Borg Warner) and it went away. it was a universal one wire off of Ebay for like $12.