baccaruda

thanks guys.

so they wouldn't be worth trying to put on an EA82 then.

I'm interested in the XT6 crossmember question as well.. I'm thinking about doing this to my wagon this summer and I'll have access to a crossmember as well.

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i'm going to go back to check out an EA82T longblock. I'll see what is worth taking. I'll leave the mirrors though

$100!! that's crazy talk!

my brat's been getting about 220-260 to the tank depending on how much highway driving i do. I couldn't find in the owner's manual a capacity listed for the gas tank.. is the brat gas tank 13 gallons? 14? if i run it low, i always put in more than 12 gallons..

I read this on some old thing I googled on nasioc: "the XT6 Engine was a much better engine. It had different water and oil pumps which would often go on the EA82. Its was basically an EA82 block with 2 more cylinders, but it didnt have the same head and head gasket issues which plaqued the EA82. Apparently there are people turbo the ER27 engine. But since it has a compression ration of 9.7:1 I wouldn't use much boost, maybe 6-8 psi max. But then again one could install EA82T pistons and lower the comp ratio to 7.7:1 and you could have a much more powerful motor without blowing it up." ...... I was under the impression that the oil pump and water pumps were the same for the ER27 as the EA82.. is that correct or is this guy onto something better?

i saw that same car today too. careful, pull n save doesn't allow cameras

nice work on the wagon. tell me about the rear swaybar on that hatch please? did you fab some brackets for the EA81 control arms or put EA82 control arms in back? If you part out the hatch I'd like to talk to you about the rear swaybar setup.

yes it is. my rear end feels much tighter. *snicker*

XT6 at 20mm is the largest. you want this on your car!

how exactly does a carb riser increase torque?

i think anyone anywhere with an ebay account could contact him; the problem would be "Does anyone here speak German?"

i think you'll also need a turbo crossmember to clear the crossover pipe.

they're dealer only parts. your only chance on a deal is to shop around. they might be cheaper at subaruparts.com but shipping would probably erase the difference. are you replacing the oil and coolant drainage lines under the turbo as well? they're also dealer-only. since you're putting in a used rack and pinion, you might take the RP somewhere and have the inner tie rod ends checked. if they need replacing, it might be easier and cheaper off of the car? good luck with everything.

My brat has the low topper. I'd like to add seats to the bed eventually and the low topper leaves no headroom for anyone to use the seats. Does the high topper have enough headroom for passengers in the rear brat seats? I'd make the switch if it allowed headroom but otherwise it wouldn't matter to me. thanks! edit: figured i'd throw this one in: EA81 axles are not as long as EA82 axles, correct? what's the length difference? I'm thinking about my RX transmission ending up in my brat, and i could see an eEA82 spindle swap if the spindle fits in an EA81? or DIY custom axles if the halfshafts will interchange between EA81/EA82?

can you reuse flanges from old stock components? that seems to be the best source we'd have. maybe someone with a dead turbo car can send you a set of flanges, and after you make someone some parts, they owe you their old stock flanges.

Nnnnnnnnngghhh Must.... Not.... Nghh... Bid.... Arrrghh..

did you change the timing belts? if so, confirm that you put them on correctly. have you had the distributor out? make sure it's in properly. it sounds like you are missing spark. check to see that you're getting that. double check everything you've worked on since the last time the car was running.

well, since silicone is oil soluble, then his gaskets aren't going to last long simply from being exposed to the oil the gaskets are in contact with. might be best to pull the motor and redo the gaskets with a nonsilicone sealant..

if they're both analog gauges, you should be able to. the connections that both cars have in common would be in the same place in the wiring harness, and the only connections that might be different have to do with the 4 doors and the rear hatch. I'll bet it would work OK.

i still need to bleed my rears some more because it doesn't feel that much different from how the drums did.. but i also have a scraping noise at all times while driving; it goes away when i press the brake pedal a little. I did loosen my E-brake enough to make up for the new brakes, and I think it might sound like the backs are dragging a little. Any ideas? I got the pistons on all 4 calipers screwed back in during the brake job. I did notice that the wheel bearings were looking tired, but this noise didn't exist before the brake job. Is it possible I put the axle nuts on too tight or something?

i think the hubs are the same front or back.

Captain Obvious to the rescue here: did you check the gear oil in the trans?