baccaruda

what are you doing with the lower A-arm? if you want to put the 5-lug suspension on it, you can supposedly just drill out the Brat control arm to accept the larger ball joint... am i missing something?

and i can also change the rear main seal -just in case- and replace the broken shift fork so I can have a hill holder that works again.

thanks for the new desktop background! sorry to hear about your oil pump but i'm glad you cleaned up the oil.. good thing you brought your bike is that a custom or factory bike mount? oh and $60 for a 20' tow line justifies shoplifting in my opinion. that is flat out outrageous.

good job staying alive! i also vote to keep the carcass. you'll end up money ahead. and you could sue the driver for negligence as well. i almost got my brat taken out at college today; i rounded the corner of a row of cars and the one on the end pulled out and almost into my passenger's door. I didn't notice her signal but I wasn't looking... and neither was the driver of the other car! it happened so fast I didn't even have time to give her my Inscrutable Gaze of Death.

well I took Brian's extra heads to the machine shop (thanks!) and my head gaskets should be in thursday.. I'm replacing the oil pan gasket while I have the engine out. After this weekend I won't have any more oil leaks in my Brat.. how am I supposed to tell where I've been? I will probably helicoil the exhaust studs.. I might also skip on using the spacers if the Y-pipe will clear. fun fun fun.

yeah, it's a great excuse to pick up a spare. (no bowling jokes please.) the first time i tuned up my barracuda when i was (I think) 18 I dropped the condensor screw into the distributor. argh!

that's what i get for opening my mouth right after getting up in the morning. aside from your points, ken, look under the trailer in the first pic; there's a blurred section that screams photoshop.. and in the second pic, you can see jackstands or something under the front of it in the shadow. i do like how they revved the truck's engine to produce the exhaust though.

hm, what makes you think it's fake? i have to say that it would be pretty unsafe for that dodge to haul that monster at anything faster than 5-10mph; it doesn't weigh nearly enough to stop it effectively. same sort of goes for your brat/trailer but i understand that you weren't on the highway or anything

yeah, i sent one fedex to someone (i think it was russ) and it was equally horrific. i guess it's worth knowing ahead of time what you're committing to, if you want to buy one.

snap ring pliers: $10 CV boot clamp pliers <$10 for either style; i have both axle grease: $4 ($.75 per boot change) axle boot and clamps from dealer: $15-$20 (spare cage, ball bearings, and axle cup from junkyard: $10 or find a cheaper junkyard) once you start fixing your own axles you will never go back to scrounging the junkyard. why spend twice as much time disassembling plus driving? You can even leave the axle on the car and change boots but it's a great time to inspect your wheel bearings and shoot some extra grease in there if you take the entire axle out.

thanks

went to the junkyard, pulled the crank pulley, A/C belt tensioner, and center timing belt cover off of a motor in an Impreza. Finished up, realized that it was an Impreza, and sure enough, it had an EJ18 instead of the EJ22 I assumed I saw. Please tell me that the parts I bought will work for my EJ22?

i put a remanufactured XT-4 PS rack in my wagon and it bolted right in.

it's gnarly and sick and all that, but it's also FUNNY. GL wagons are not supposed to tear up the streets like musclecars and it's hilariously absurd to see that. i love it, don't get me wrong. i thought this was going to be another reposting of fossil's jump.

i've always been under the impression that verbal agreements are legally binding in washington state, but good luck proving it without a recording

what year are the harness and computer from? I have an electrical FSM for 1990..

when they produced the bubbles, did they just pressurize the cooling system or did they do a leakdown test or something else? I'm wondering what else we could learn about the problem... do you have more info from your mechanic?

thanks Josh. I'll make sure I know what kind of ECU/sensors my donor parts use.

that's great, thanks Josh. I have FSM #6 for the 1990 Legacy so hopefully I'll find a car that likes the diagrams I already have ????..... so if i get a 90-91 MT harness, should I grab the IAC (wiring diagram says "bypass air control") off of the motor to match? or should I grab ALL the sensors and injectors, as they're different? (what's the MT/AT difference anyway?) If it's a 92-94 I will grab the engine sensors regardless. thanks again!

call Emily at http://www.ccrengines.com/ and ask about a 1995 2.2 liter swap. she could also advise you about the suggestion you mentioned.

this harness is from an auto and it has a TON of extra crap on it that i don't want to sort out or have to make space for under my car's dash. thanks for the answer!

some people have swapped 1995 EJ22s in place of failed EJ25s. I read from Emily at CCR that the 1995 EJ22 has the same wiring harness as (at least) the older 2.5s, such as yours. A good used EJ22 will cost you much less than the EJ25 repairs...

you also need the gas pedal/throttle cable from the legacy. swap them into your brat (i'm assuming that's the recipient?). the adapter is not hard to make... take the bellhousing off of an EA82 motor while you're at the junkyard. get a piece of plywood that's roughly 13x16". (line up the bottom edges by standing them up on a flat surface and..) whack the back of the bellhousing behind each of the two bottom bolts. your plywood is now marked. drill out the holes and slide the plywood over the studs. if the alignment pins are in the engine bellhousing (do yourself a favor and make sure they are) you can use the sledgehammer trick to tap their indents into the wood and drill their holes. keep the pins for your donor transmission. trace the inside of the engine bellhousing (it's the same shape as the inside of the trans bellhousing). When you get your EJ22, place the plywood over its bottom bolts. (make sure your previous outline is faced to the engine..) it is hard to trace around the engine in some spots. here's my trick. get the sledgehammer again and tap on the board all around the outline of the engine enough to impress the wood. trace it with a pen/etc. worked beautifully. you can mark the top holes by applying some paint around them on the EJ22, and on the EA 5sp when you get it, and facing the template up to the marked holes. it will leave an outline for your holes to be drilled. i cut my template with a scroll saw; i think i have access to a band saw to cut the aluminum when i get it (this week!) notice that in subarino's pictures, he seems to have tapped the top holes in the adapter. MTFBWY!

OK, I gave up on the auto harness I was sorting out for my EJ-into-EA swap. I'm going to the parts yard tomorrow and hopefully grabbing an intact ECU/harness from a manual car I saw there. question: do i need to grab the wiring *on the engine* or is the engine wiring the same between the AT and manual cars? I'm hoping I can just disconnect the three gray plugs from the engine harness and save the time and effort of grabbing an engine harness I don't need. BTW my donor engine is a 1990 and I can grab the ECU/harness from any Legacy with the same body style, right? (up to 94?) thanks!

Hey Dave, I have a question about the surge tank as well. and thanks for those great pictures you posted a while back, they've been really helpful in mking my own adapter. My wagon, which is receiving an EJ22 swap, is (used to be ) MPFI turbo. I've never seen anything like a surge tank during this and the numerous other times i've taken it apart. Is this something that only has to be added to carbureted cars? I'd be interested in seeing your wiring diagrams too even though i have the "wrong" car for them thanks Andy