baccaruda

I have a good used turbo for sale with new coolant inlet and outlet hoses, and a new oil return hose, and new gaskets for the crossover pipe at the heads and at the turbo, all from the dealer and used for less than a year. I am asking $110 US for all of it. If you need to replace your unit entirely with a good one, mine is available good luck though never mind, i just made a deal for it

i have always separated the two and (with the fans and radiator out, and cardboard in front of the A/C condenser) slid the engine forward. jacking the trans up just a little will help with removal and reentry. you may want to consider pulling the engine as it's not that much more work (I don't have an engine crane). someone on here dropped the hint that it may be easier to remove the throttle body from the intake than to fink with the fuel lines by the master cylinder. i will definitely try this the next time i change a clutch. other considerations include replacing the rear main seal (hard to tap in as room is limited in the engine bay) as well as any front of the block maintenance you may want to catch up on. Also, get two throwout bearing retainer clips from the dealer. $5 for two means there's no reason to reuse the old ones. i'll bet that you may even have one or both of yours broken if the noise is the throwout bearing.

you probably tweaked a vacuum line when changing the filter.

will, you change your car's setup more often than monstaru changes his underwear. do you have a money tree in your backyard or somethign?

ed, maybe you should look into that ebay auction and see if they want to buy yours?

point a cheap webcam out the window, aimed at where you park. that way you can get a picture of the person's face

neat project.. i'd think that you could try swapping EA82 MPFI electroguts onto it if nothing else.

those are pretty rare. i don't know if that means they're valuable though. you might also take it to a fiberglass shop and see how much it would cost to produce reproductions, if there is a demand for them.

yeah, you'll be just fine. i'd drain it overnight and refill it and never think twice. i once started to top off my car's oil with ATF (grabbed the wrong bottle), right in front of a friend. he's a gearhead too so we both just laughed at me.

did this ever actually get archived?

great work. do mine next!

the alloy pugs which use the 2-piece lugnuts are thicker, as are the lugnuts, leaving less of the stud for the lug to grab. i think chef tim put in longer lugs, and i was also considering that when i ran pugs on my wagon. you might think about that if you get some alloys. i know i had a few pug lugs strip out because the limited contact area didn't like the torque required to hold the wheel on, and those lugs are inconvenient to find in a hurry...

someone - i think it was andrew/hondasucks - said the pros like half mineral and half synthetic in the trans..

good point, john. miles, i like to use the clutch the same way. "fortunately" i'm 5'5" so my legs are more suited to "hovering" over the pedal

i don't really agree that a visual description is that useful, but do i like the idea of a directory. i wish that our signatures had more room available, then those who are willing could list their personal FSMs in their signatures as well.

wow. (repeat X 134523452546256) i had to convince my brain that it wasn't looking at a mopar block though

hey thanks, i appreciate it. about the wiring... i've gotten to drive this car so LITTLE in the last couple of years that it just doesn't matter to me. and i've kind of planned to do the wiring last, although designing the wiring layout on paper can be done at my leisure as i have the books here. my workshop is in a secret mountain hideaway that takes about a half hour to get to, so i haven't been there much...

if you screw it to the roof, use fasteners called jack nuts. they are similar to drywall anchors. Use a length of tubing or hose over the drill bit (leave like 1/2" of the bit exposed) so when you drill thru the roof you don't punch through the headliner as well. and use silicone to seal the jack nuts. i've installed a factory roof rack to an EA82 wagon using this method with great results.

hehehe.. thanks... my clutch is ptill pretty new, i had it custom ordered with a kevlar facing and a HD pressure plate so I'm covered. and i have an XT6 flywheel to put in too *evil grin* i have so much to do though, i am so slammed with school.. i still have to make my adapter plate and buy a few more parts (new timing belt) and then not only do i have to adapt the wiring harness but i want to put in an analog dash and change the heater core while i have the dash torn up. i lucked out big time and got the FSM electrical sections for my original car and for my donor car on ebay. oh yeah, and i'm ordering my lift kit this week too... i have gotten NOTHING done lately. argh.

hm, how about this: the cheap fixes are the best!

that's ridiculous. there is no way that car should be totalled. that should cost $500 to fix, maximum. take it to a body shop that will give you a good low quote. have them repair the radiator support and install the radiator, grille, headlights, and bumper yourself, and get your insurance company to reevaluate your car's value. Find as many clean turbowagons as you can (for sale, the closer the better) and show them to your insurance company. keep your title clean!

i'd like to sign up for one. the price is important though because it's not in the budget officially thanks

the phrase was escaping my virus-addled brain last night but that bug is on the ropes now! .."mammoth pile of crap" was what i was trying to construct. that sort of includes all of the other stuff that i tore out of the dash. the funnest part was the "removal" of the heater assembly... those things shatter like eggs if you take a sledgehammer and prybar to them! plastic chips were bouncing off my face too, thanks for eye pro... mighty thor's got nothing on me.

you don't have to (and shouldn't) pop out the tie rod or ball joint. you can unbolt the control arm at the crossmember, unbolt the sway bar, and loosen the strut tower nuts in the engine bay. that will give you enough slack to get the axle off the stub without risking damage to the threads or boots on the tie rods or ball joints. look in the USRM for the axle tutorial, written by Ed.

driving on a high-traction surface (pavement) is horrible for welded diffs. the wheels need to each turn at different speeds when you turn, or even so much as steer a few degrees away from straight. the rear axles can be disassembled on the car without removing the wheel (i think). the halfshaft comes out quickly and easily. that way your welded diff will be sending eqal power to both axle stubs but with only one axle driving a wheel, you can see that the wheels can then turn at whatever speeds they need. i've never pulled a halfshaft myself (that's how much of a hardcore offroader *I* am!) but that's the way those who are do it.