baccaruda

i'll look at that tie rod interchange whenever i get my legacy. unless someone beats me to it. today i'm changing the rear brakes over to the XT6 parts, and stripping the front suspension.. if i get a chance i'll then start on the engine.

subarutex has done this to his car. change the name of this thread to include his name and something about a fuel rail to get his attention.

hm, splitting the case on new year's day? i'd say that calls for at least a 12-pack.

hm. the best we've found for front differentials is phantom grip http://www.phantomgrip.com/product_lists.php?make=Subaru I dont' know if any of us have tried them though due to expense. I also wonder if you'd want a 90's 2WD transaxle instead on an 80's, as you're talking about a much stronger engine than the 80s transaxles were built to take, and putting it to full time heavy duty use. I assume you're using a VW transaxle now?

you're going to have problems running larger tires in the rear than in the front.

looks cool.. may i suggest painting the center support black?

i'll measure the height of my stock GL struts when I get them off of my car.. maybe i'll decide that the bushings are in better shape from sitting in my storage unit for a month

So according to the 2 subaru dealerships in town, the XT6 front control arm bushings do not exist for sale separately. Does anyone have dimensions for them or do I get to be the first to figure that out? this thread is great.. we should move it to retrofitting and mark it for archiving...

Caleb: right, it's the outer tie rod end. Leave Tex alone, I'm supposed to be working now too I just talked to my buddy at Napa and he gave me the same part number for the XT6 and Legacy and Impreza ball joints. I see that Tex verified this as well. thanks bud. I think you are right about the vehicle weights being close enough not to matter. now I just need to find out which combo of Legacy/Impreza struts and springs (Leg? Imp? RX?) sits the highest. And get a price on XT6 control arm bushings.. my donor's are all chewed up...

tizzle: no, the front control arms and the rear brakes are too different. what about the ball joints? do i need to use xt6 ball joints or can I use leg/imp ball joints in the XT6 control arms? and how about the impreza vs legacy struts for a GL's weight? this is what i'm looking at for my swap: rear XT6 rear rotors/hubs/backing plates (stock/original calipers) front XT6 control arms/tie rods/calipers impreza/legacy knuckles/hubs/rotors/axles/struts (see impreza/legacy strut question) ??????? XT6 ball joint or will leg/imp BJ work in XT6 control arm? ???????

541 is portland... edit:

Hi Steve. Do you know Anthony? He drives a white civic... You can put the 2.5 crank, pistons, and heads on the 2.2 block for a higher compression dual cam engine with 2.2 reliablility without the 2.5 head gasket vulnerablility. aside from this forum, legacycentral.org will be a good resource for you. nasioc.com is OK too but mostly turbo talk.

nice write up.. i did the heater core in my 66 barracuda and it was extremely simple. I've been dreading a subaru core change.. how long did it take you?

Good timing, Brian... I have a couple of related questions of my own as well as a comment on yours. In my research so far I've heard that you should match the struts and spindles (and spindles to rotors/calipers) and use XT6 control arms, tie rods, and ball joints. the score on the KYB GR2s would be worth changing spindles if I'm right about them being specific. You can bolt EA82 strut tops on the Legacy struts directly. On my wagon, I'm going to use GR2s as well (with RX springs) but I haven't decided if I would be better off using Legacy or Impreza GR2s based on the weight of my car.. or are the impreza struts shorter? in that case i'd probably not want them...

No, it is I who possess the Ultimate of RXes! (No, I'm Spartacus!)

we should ask him if we can just copy the entire page in USMB colors. give him a thank you and a link to his page, maybe a small beer stipend from the USMB fund.

your rear diff is 3.9. that trans was from the parts yard, wasn't it? do you remember from what year car?

yes, we drilled our holes and jerry welded some nuts under the bed so it's removeable from above the car. brian, for a second i thought you were saying that we'd bolted them into a barracuda.. that would get really hot sitting under all that glass

that looks really nice. good job minimizing the hood in the picture too. i forgot you'd done the 5 lug conversion on that car.

maybe it's just the 300k mile clutch smoking?

could be either. we should know by now that there is no such thing as "only" as far as which cars came with which.

hm. i have no idea what it is except that they only used it for a few months during the production run. (if it is what i think it is, pic is bad). i changed one of those on skeet's car way back when and it was hard to find one at all, let alone one without a broken nipple.

you have to make an adapter for the bellhousing that is 12mm thick to equalize the offset for the clutch setup. you use the EA82 flywheel with the holes drilled outwards a little to match the EJ crank. use your favorite EA82 clutch. there is a lot of info on this to be found in Retrofitting. look for subarino's thread.

you were lucky to have ken at your back. hahaha.. if skeet sees this he'll be happy to tell everyone about a wheel coming off of my car a few years ago.

sorry to hear about your troubles. i'd recommend the better business bureau - register a complaint and ask for suggestions. you could call a lawyer and ask for a little advice over the phone; that will probably lead to small claims court. and if you are going to replace your carburetor again, you might try to end up with a weber. i hope it goes well for you. if nothing else someone here can probably hook you up with a tolerable used carb for the time being.