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Gary, Do you recommend just the Ebait pulleys or the timing belt, too? I've heard to stick w/the OEM belt? Thanks

http://www.geocities.com/kuleshoff/IAC.htm

He had "spiked ice tyres" (thanks for the link)...those probably helped - a little . I thought rally races were mainly flat?? I probably need to get out more! Unfortunately I've not had that opportunity to see much rally driving on snow...But w/35 years of skiing experience, and the steepness of the approach to those jumps, I'm still surprised it can climb that well - heck, who needs a snowmobile!

Yep, I saw it last nite, too. Amazing! I'm a bit skeptical that it's 'for real', but it's kewl none the less. That snow must be very 'firm' to allow the car to drive up?...Looks like tracks going up to the left (boarder's right) of the jump in the pic, and then coming down. I guess w/4wd and front and rear lockers it's possible?

Yes...but how big a problem? Never stopped me from getting where I'm going:) . I just remember to kick it loose so it doesn't freeze too solid.

Should be the same. Call a couple more shops. Also, these should both be fuel-injected - not carbureted (sp?). Also, this should be in the Old Gen...New Gen is Legacy, Baja, Forester, Impreza, SVX, WRX, STI, Tribeca....

Miles were 150K+..... According to the seller (the donor car was long gone), the car it came out of had a grimy looking engine, but the tranny looked comparatively clean/'new'/rebuilt, .....so either I got screwed over, or when they rebuilt the transmission they didn't rebuild the clutches??:-\ Seems I read that some shops may consider that a separate job?? Regardless, I guess I've got more AT/AWD fun ahead. I'll start looking but if anyone has a link to a write-up on whether this can be done w/out completely removing the tranny, please let me know. Thanks for the info guys...It's appreciated!

Yes, on occasion. No TB on the old trans. The AWD worked fine.

'90 Legacy, AT, AWD. Swapped in a '91 Turbo AT, AWD, a few months back. (Yes, I also swapped in the rear 3.9VLSD.) The car shifts fine and runs great w/the 'new' tranny, but it has AWD issues, which look a lot like a bad Duty C solenoid. Symptoms: 1. Torque Bind (TB) - Occasionally. If the front wheels slip when accelerating, there's a slight delay before the rear wheels kick-in. If I then make a turn, TB is apparent. However, if I accelerate slowly/easily (no slip), and then make a turn or pull into my parking space @ work, there is no TB. 2. AT Fluid flushed - No difference. 3. FWD fuse installed = No TB. 4. Code from tranny indicates Duty-C Solenoid: 2-4. I've swapped in the Turbo's TCU and didn't notice any difference - either in TB or the delay. I still have the '90's tranny, and plan on swapping in its rear hub section along w/a new Duty C. Feedback, please!

I did the OB strut swap on my '90 Leg. I have 205/75R-14 all-seasons and 205/70R-15 studded snows that both fit, but the front of the REAR tire is close to the fender - front tires are fine. I read somewhere on here where 215/75R-14 may fit. Also, different mfg. tires have different dimensions, I've noticed. The difference between my two sizes is only about .2" in width and diameter. The tires DO rub just slightly @ full steering lock. I bought the almost new 205/75R-14 off Craigslist for <$60, w/mounting/balancing I was set for about $100 for all 4!

Check out this link: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=13500&sid=7add370daf15909c801cba58%20f69c2cbd I believe, if I read it correctly, '91 is 4.11 (AT or 5MT); the 1995 is 3.9 MT.

I put '97 OB struts on my '90 Legacy w/out a camber issue...didn't even know the Foresters would fit a Leg! Not that it answers your question.... The '95 should be OBDII compliant (even though '96 and newer were required to be OBDII). Try Autozone or another parts store to lend you a scanner. Sounds like the CA sensor is bad and causing the CEL.

The VDC (vs. VDO) had/has a badge on the front fenders. Yours does have an LSD according this site: http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/lsd/lsd.html I have a rear VLSD on my '90, but I've not played w/it yet to see if makes noises when it kicks in (hopefully, it doesn't also 'Kick Out' the rear-end mid-corner!)

Mr. Porcupine, that is one rusted nut! Your cars in the NE pay for having clear roads....we in the NW pay w/worn roads from studded snows.

EJ. EAs died off w/the Loyale in '94, I believe.

To re-emphasize what's likely in the write-up. Mark the top bolt on the strut, as it affects your alignment. If you put it back in the same place you shouldn't need to get it re-aligned. The socket was a 1 1/4 (32mm) on my '90, but that's a distant relative of your OB.

Yeah, we struggled w/the suspension parts when I did mine, too. You were one of the lucky ones then...being able to get your diff out w/out undoing the suspension. I believe you'll see that there's not quite enough clearance/room to just remove the axle...you'll need to undo something....

I think you can, but will have to remove the suspension....but how did you replace the differential? Did you remove one side of the suspension, like the link w/the instructions suggested?

Well done! I wish I knew what that noise was....does it do it in all gears, e.g. D, 3, 2, and 1 thru all RPMS? Any chance it's a wheel bearing? @ least the AWD is working....you'll need that soon!

I think I've just reached my 'level of ignorance', as I don't know what to tell you about the fluid on top, nor do I know the best way to clean it out. Unless someone else chimes in or you 'google it', I'd call a tranny/diff shop and get their recommendation.

Wow...that sounds like my old OB...except mine was white.. I pounded a nail thru the heat shield -not the exhaust!- which stopped the rattle. I had a rust bubble on the driver's side rear wheel arch. You may just need to clean the contacts on the window switch - since you're 'old school' that should be a familiar task?? Oh, did you check for Subie leaks? Cam, valve cover, rear main (rare, but $$) seals? They're usually not a big deal but because they leak on the exhaust, your wife may not like the smell!

It sounds like you're saying there are 2 fluid containers in the diff? The 'good' stuff on top; and the not so good on bottom? I'm pretty sure it's all the same, though. Does it turn freely by hand? If so, you're probably fine. Also, I found this on 'endwrench': http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/GearRatiosInfoF99.pdf I hope yours is still OK. Good luck w/the install.

Welcome to the New Gen... To add to the above: The head gaskets will cost a min. of $1500, unless you're a mechanic. One thing visually to check is the coolant overflow tank. If there's any oily film or it looks 'grimy', the HG is on its way out....although it could've been done and they didn't clean it out afterwards. Also, make sure on the test drive the temp gauge rises to just below midway and doesn't move once warmed up. If it fluctuates @ all, that may be another sign. With the torque bind (TB), there may be a procedure, using the FWD fuse under the hood, to identify whether a tranny flush will fix it or not....a little searching will describe TB in more detail - Nipper here on USMB is an expert. Drive the car in circles/figure 8's to test for this - it should be nice and smooth, if you feel any 'dragging' you've got it. Expect $900+ to fix - the tranny doesn't need rebuilt, but rear clutches do, which requires a lot in labor to drop the tranny. I'd also check for rust on nut/bolts under the hood- common on NE cars anyway...it isn't a real issue 'til it's time to replace suspension/drive train parts, which can cause issues when replacement time comes around. Regardless of these issues, I'd still buy another one. I like the way they drive and get around in the snow great! $3000 is a good price IF it checks out okay...maybe there are records in the glove box?? Good luck.

If you're referring to the one holding up the rear of the tranny (not the diff itself), it does not....otherwise, I'm not sure.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?p=211571&sid=e48c3ef81a2c5bb471b7f95 27f7f5096 This is the link to the writeup on replacing the rear diff. Remember, you may need an alignment when done, unless suspension stuff is marked before it's removed (rear struts don't matter).