wtdash

Only the diff. The axles can stay. There is a great write-up on this - may be on USMB...I just saw it a couple days back, but now can't find it:mad: ....I'll let u know if/when I do. What I remember is you'll need to get the correct punch to remove the inner roll pins, remove the bolts that hold the diff up, disconnect the driveline, and likely have to disconnect some rear suspension pieces to gain enough room to drop the diff out (Note: I didn't try this, but it seems like you should/could be able to put the rear tires up on ramps- not on jacks - and this would allow the rear diff to drop low enough that the axles would come out, since the wheels would be compressed up by the weight of the car vs. hanging in the air if on jacks??? I'm likely missing a key issue w/this idea, otherwise it would be documented that it works!!!:-\ ). None of it was technically challenging, but some of the bolts were way tight - make sure you either have a breaker bar or air tools, and hitting the bolts/nuts w/WD40 or PB Blast the night before could make it go a lot smoother if you have rust to contend with. Good luck!

You could use the FWD fuse under the hood to diagnose it, too. Find the empty parking lot w/snow, punch it; repeat w/the FWD fuse installed. If there's no difference you've got no AWD. It could just be worn tires, since you couldn't keep up w/that other Subie. And if you haven't heard, Subies need all 4 tires replaced @ the same time - don't replace just 2. It is bad for Subie AWD trannys to have tires unevenly worn. Studded snows are popular up here in the NW around Spokane. We get a lot of temps right around freezing during the winter, so on many mornings we'll be iced up, but by mid-morning it's thawed out. It also explains why we have so many potholes! I, too, am jealous of your Tahoe snow! Good luck.

No offense to Manarius.... I'm 99% sure the '90 and '91 Legs are 4.11; '92-'94 are 3.9. This is for the 2.2 Non-turbos, Automatic, AWD. I replaced mine in July and had to figure this out and make sure I got the right rear diff. I don't understand how the AWD can work on your car, regardless of the TCU you're using,...that's a mystery. But maybe the pulling to one side is indicative that it's the wrong diff. Here's a link that's a bit hard to follow, but shows the Legacy rear diff history: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=13500&sid=7add370daf15909c801cba58f69c2cbd

My '90 Leg wagon does this too. I thought it was just the cooler weather. Does yours do it regardless of temp?

In the NW (Spokane or Seattle), this is a <$6500 (Private Seller) car w/stock stereo...HG issue or not. I've seen these on Ebait for $3500, but they also have more NE rust (no offense) than metal in places. I bought a '97 from a guy in FL, and even after having it shipped it was still $1000 under local book value @ the time. IMHO, it's all about location, location, location.

Definitely stiffer, but my stock struts were gone, so not really a fair comparison. I also bought used (60K) replacement struts....so your new ones will be firmer yet.

I had a '98 OB (Phase I - 2.5) that had the piston slap - it had 114K miles. I took it to 3 shops (no dealers) and none could really diagnose it - other than suggest a rebuild. That was about the time I found this site and learned about the issue. If it does go away, then it's likely p-slap. I read where Subaru actually considered this normal. Here's a link: http://www.butkus.org/subaru/piston_slap/subaru_piston_slap.htm The movie link doesn't work, but looks like it was covered by warranty, which tells me maybe it's NOT normal? Here's a Subaru letter saying it's normal: http://cs.senecac.on.ca/~selmys/subaru-letter.txt here's the original link: http://cs.senecac.on.ca/~selmys/subaru.html Would different weight oil help? Probably not since it's above the oil? Good luck

Yep, I was able to reuse one hole (I think it was the inner one), and drilled the other two. The top of the hat does NOT fit in the hole if you do this, but in my case it's only off 1/4 inch and tightened up fine, which I could live with. If you do a lot of muddy/wet driving I 'spose stuff could get up in there, so seal it w/something if that's a concern. If you drilled 3 new holes it should fit in the hole, but check for clearance on the inside of the wheel well, regardless. I didn't have the tools to swap hats, so I just said WTH, and did it...this is a $2000 car that only I drive; not a new OB XT for the family. And if it doesn't work for whatever reason? Pull 'em out and swap hats. Nothing to mark in the rear, that I recall. Also, you'll figure it out, but when dealing w/the brake lines, I pulled out the metal tab that holds 'em in place, cut the bracket in the middle so I could move one side up and the other down to get the line out. This could be an issue if you're in the NE Rust-land and they break, but mine were rusty and are still intact.

Yes, you'll need old style 'top hats' for the rears... or you can drill new holes....which I've been running since March '07 w/no issues. Except for the rear top hats, everything bolted up the same. I've NOT done any serious off-roading so not sure if there's rubbing @ full tilt. Also, if you have the rear anti-sway bar as my '90 does, it might rub the gas tank - although mine doesn't. Remember to mark the front strut adjustment bolt (top one?) BEFORE you loosen/remove it. If you put it back where it was, your alignment (if correct beforehand) should still be good - mine was when I took it in to be checked. Sorry, no info on height difference.

If I didn't say it someone else would re: searching 1st. There's lots of info on overheating here. I didn't see a list what trouble-shooting you've done, the link gives a place to start...w/out having to tear into the motor again. I filled mine slow and still had a big air bubble. I fixed it following the info in the link....and so have others.

Welcome to USMB. Please use the Search function, as it's the quickest way to find answers....plus it's part of 'forum etiquette' - not just here, but on all sites....to look first and then ask. Check out this link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681&highlight=Setright+radiator I bet you have air trapped in the system. Good Luck

I'm in the 'fix it camp' too. The HG should be <$1500 job - not a cheap repair, but cheaper than a new car. Look on Car Talk's website (the NPR guys) for local, reputable mechanics. Or AAA can recommend some too. Also, I know it's a long-shot, but my old '90 Legacy had a similar HG-like issue after I flushed the radiator due to an air bubble. I re-filled the system from the top hose and all was good. Any chance it just needs burped? Do a tranny flush, which may help, but likely the delay in the 4EAT won't get worse.....Mine didn't. Also, here in the Northwest $5k is cheap for a '99 OB w/130k...even though it seems we have about 1/2 the OBWs in the US driving around - they are everywhere. But still hold their value. If I could get 'em for $3k 'round here, I'd replace my '90! So, cut yourself some slack. When winter shows up, you'll be glad you got it! Good Luck!

Pics posted in "my photos". I included info w/each pic, but if someone has a better way to post, please let me know. Also, any constructive criticism is welcome, as I don't know the 'proper' names of some of the tranny and TC parts.

Yep, find the post by Setright. Here's the link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681&highlight=Setright+radiator I had the same issue. Essentially, he fills it from the top radiator hose. On my '90 EJ22 I filled everything up thru the radiator, and then there is a bleeder hole on the top of the radiator. I undid it just enough to let steam/air/water come out and filled from the top radiator hose (on the passenger side on my car) and when water started coming out the release valve I was done (I did this w/the car running) - closed it all back up and no probs since.

I concur. Well said.

And we are grateful for that!

I saw that article in CR, which I subscribe to, as well. I’m surprised they allowed CNN to publish that, although CR also partners w/MSN Autos. Lexus, Toyota and Honda have are historically @ the top of CR's lists. Deservedly so, IMHO, as they are the most reliable and have the highest resale value (which justifies the fact that they’re rarely discounted when new). These brands are ‘much better than average” vehicles, whereas Subes fall into the ‘better than average” ratings. But Subes are in the top 5 of all cars….along the lines of Mazda (b4 Ford bought ‘em) and a couple others. NO OFFENSE to Uniberp, but part of the reason CR focuses on mainstream products is to ensure they get a statistically significant amount of responses on their annual questionnaires, which provide their reliability ratings. And they are definitely inclined toward the average consumer – not the enthusiasts that comprise the USMB or other boards. CR takes NO ADVERTISING $$ from anyone – they’re wholly funded by subscriptions and donations (That’s why I get an effing request every month! J). Here’s some info I pulled from “somewhere” that shows a couple Subarus: SPORTS/SPORTY CARS Most Reliable Lexus SC Toyota Camry Solara (4-cyl.) Subaru Impreza WRX Honda S2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse* Least Reliable Pontiac Solstice* Mercedes-Benz SL Mercedes-Benz CLK Mercedes-Benz SLK (V6) Chevrolet Corvette Porsche 911 Ford Mustang (V6) SMALL SUVs Most Reliable Toyota FJ Cruiser* Honda Element Honda CR-V Toyota RAV4* Subaru Forester Least Reliable Kia Sportage *Based on one model year; redesigned or introduced for 2006.

You'll give up about 18-25HP - 130 ('90-94)-137 ('95+) vs.155, (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Legacy) but also won't need to run Premium, which the '96 2.5 required. I echo Grossgary - go w/a '95 or newer 2.2 as they are OBDII vs. <'94s OBDI to avoid possible wiring/sensor issues. A '95 exhaust should bolt right up; '96+ are slightly different. Sorry, but I don't know whether the <'94 engines will bolt to your '96 AWD AT. Good luck. P.S. Looks like Nipper types faster!

That's exactly where mine are, too. I'll take it in - after vaca. Thanks for the info!

I'd like to know this too. Mine are frayed (fraid?).

Yeah, I was concerned about it running upside down...or if it rolled back onto its wheels....not sure the Seller knows either.

Local guy on Craigslist selling a '92 SS w/an AT and 195,000 miles. I just want the EJ22T (and the wheels) and the whole car ensures I get all the parts for the swap. Car was a 'soft roll' so the roof, hood and one fender took the hit. It's been sitting in back yard under a tarp for 2 years. Might run, but hasn't been started by seller. No history/maintenance available. Title is available. Asking $950. What say Usmb?

To answer your question, I paid $19.99 for the drain and fill for the rear (and the front) including the gear oil. I used a breaker bar too. They were very tight on my 'new' (to me) '91 VLSD when I recently checked it.

Did the deed this last Friday/Saturday. I had 2 helpers and we replaced the transmission, torque converter, driveline, flexplate, rear axles, left front axle (surprise!), starter and rear differential. As mentioned thru-out USMB the TC was a challenge to line up :-\ . We all spent some time trying to figure it out. Eventually, I figured out what worked was to put the approx. 10" tube piece into the TC, then put both pieces into the tranny, turn it a bit, and it would seat. Used tie wraps/cable ties to hold it in place during the install. W/out the old to 'test' with, I'm not sure we'd have figured it out! I'm going to make a point to post some pics. The rear diff was only a pain as there is more hardware to remove to get the axles out- axle nut, control arms, sway bar, strut...on the front it's just the nut and struts. The front left axle boot was completely ripped, and the inside of the wheel, fender and strut were covered in grease, so that was the surprise:rolleyes: , but was an easy $75 fix w/an axle from Autozone (yeah, I know - not A1 quality but I needed it - NOW) . Outside of stipping a bolt on the pinion/yoke connection, which didn't matter as we replaced them w/the new (er) diff and driveline, there were no other major issues. I did find my left front bearing is shot, as I took it in for an alignment (I didn't 'supervise' the removal of the front struts and mark the alignment bolts) and they couldn't do it due to the bad bearing . Those are E-x-p-e-n-s-i-v-e to repair..$250+!! I did leave the '90 TCU in initially and didn't seem to have AWD - that was until I punched it on a dirt road the rear end felt like it kicked in after 10 feet or so. But the next morning, I could hear the front wheels squeal a bit on take off and I've NEVER broken them loose on dry pavement, so I don't think the AWD was working correctly. So, I swapped in the '91 Turbo TCU last nite and it seemed to be working properly- I 'tested' it on a patch of gravel road and couldn't break it loose ....If I still had only FWD, it should've spun for a little bit...even w/the non-turbo 2.2! Thanks to all for the info on the forum and to 86RUGuy for helping me get the tranny and to GrossGary for his valuable input. UP next??? Maybe a Turbo??? Or something easy like the 50/50 diff lock trick.

Replace tranny...see this thread...if interested. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77466&highlight=4eat+install