idosubaru

buy one immediately (used should be fine, i'm going for a single piece after market so it never happens). if it starts slipping a little you won't notice it but it will slowly drain your battery and work your alternator over time to compensate for the reduction in rotation of the belt. if for any reason you have to wait, paint a white stripe across it or use a sharpie across the outer and inner ring and rubber portion. check it every now and again to see if the lines don't match up - indicating slippage. that will definitively tell you it needs replacing. but i'd do it now anyway. also - if it does fail at 4,000 rpm's and high speeds you can damage lots of other things, the crank shaft itself being one of the worst...but more likely timing covers, a/c, power steering pump.....depends how it happens, what those belts wrap around and what the pulley wobbles/slams into. at least carry some sheet metal screws in the car, if it does fail or gets really loose you can use those between the rubber and metal ring to hold it in place. or weld a piece of steel across it. yes yes i know those will argue the balancing will be off, but it works and you won't notice anything. again i think this is a terrible idea and replacement is much better, but it will work. actually welding sounds good to me, i HATE that rubber ring idea out of principle. let's design something that will fail eventhough it's not needed.

as a matter of fact a friend showed up at my house in maryland one day with a box of front pads and said he was leaving from my house to go to alabama (never called ahead of time??). pulled the calipers and one side had nothing in it but metal shards and what some might call a rotor and the other side basically had a backing plate left. the rotors were torn to bits, shreds, shavings and grooves everywhere. he essentially made me slap the pads on it and left for alabama and drove the truck like that from then on. i guess the pads eventually wore into the rotor grooves just fine, he said they worked great.

install and ride on. you will experience no issues if everything else is up to par. did you clean up/grease the slides? if so then your braking system is likely more adequate than half the 98's on the road today in terms of pad wear and rotors. look at it this way....did you have any issues the last 10,000 miles or 5,000? the caliper and rotor really doesn't "know" how thick the pad is, so long as pressure is evenly applied. if it did make a difference you (and i in the past) would notice it in the braking. no dice though. works fine. that being said, be sure to check them often (when you rotate tires on your awesome locking transfer clutch machine) to be sure you're missing one wearing down faster than the others (since it started with less).

does anyone know what happened to the picture of this retorque tool mentioned above? dimensions, instructions, etc?

maybe it wasn't enough slush for the tires to slip and you were feeling the transmission bind. if that were true, it would feel bogged down the more you turned the steering wheel, but should be fine driving straight as an arrow. was it all the time? agree on tire check too.

try the off road forum for technical advice, alot of those guys might not be looking here but they can help you with advice.

i have an extra auto trans. try banging out the dent in the pan first.

if this is for off roading and serious trail riding that may limit your horsepower options. cams may provide more horsepower, but it's usually up in the higher RPM range which might not be helpful in some kinds of offroading.

i have an XT6 5speed 4WD i'm getting rid of. if you're interested in it - it has the FT4WD 5 speed with center differential. you could have the whole thing, trans, pedal assembly, vacuum lines, center diff, diff lock button, actuator, drive shaft, rear diff, etc. i'd pull the engine and some other random things out first and the rest is yours. i'm in maryland, so i could possibly tow it to you depending where in VA you are.

nice, that's tricy. well assuming the engine is layed out the same, your drivers side is much easier. but no matter, your TOD is fixed. valve covers are the easiest oil loss culprit, might want to check those out. easy and inexpensive to replace. 10mm wrench and some time is all that's needed. they will leak at the far back, bottom corner.

thanks emily and 99OBW! funny noone mentioned that?

the board member offering great prices is Toney: number is 1-800-542-1516

i'd replace the tensioner. this is an interference engine and not worth causing serious damage. try online discount place like 1stsubaruparts.com or Liberty Subaru, be sure to ask for internet discount. there's also a usmb member that offers discount subaru parts, i'll look up and post their info. i've dealt with them and they are most helpful.

Ms. Dickens, your best bet may be to do some research (won't take long). though i know you're new to the forum, it may help to search the Forum for "headgasket" and "cracked block" and see how many responses you can come up with. or start a new thread asking for anyone that has ever personally seen a cracked block due to overheating.

no need to appologize, sometimes new threads are started and the poster never returns yet the discussions continue. sometimes threads dont' get instant or many posts either, you just happen to be fortunate...depending how you look at it.

now i add a quart here and there if needed. one quart is %20 so i'd start with that much for now. i've done more before in the past, but haven't really needed to in a really long time. better to start light and work your way up only if needed. give it time and it may gradually come clean. i'd run about %20 ATF or MMO or seafoam in it personally and drive it around like normal like that. keep doing that and see how it is in a month. change your oil all the time and keep an eye on how dirty/clean it is when you drain it. if it's really black you're not changing it enough and that will hurt the HLA's. as a matter of fact, depending how dirty the motor is internally any cleaner could quickly dirty the oil so keep an eye on it. dirty oil is bad for HLA's.

TOD does effect performance for sure. run ATF, MMO or seafoam in your oil to alleviate it. if you know it's in one cylinder only then it's likely related to the HLA's being dirty. change your oil OFTEN...all the time. it can take some time. start with low dose...then increase if you don't get results. often you see results immediately, sometimes it takes awhile. if yo'ure comfortable, pull the timing belts, cams and replace the faulty lifters. cylinder #1 cam is much easier than drivers side. it can be done in an hour or two for those that have done it alot. (don't have to worry with disty, more room than the drivers side, no ATF hoses, etc). if the TOD moves around (occuring across multiple cylinders) then it's likely oil pump related. repalce your oil pump seals

how much increase? what are you looking for? like i said NA will be very tough to get more power out of. you can do everything above and you won't notice much. it will not make the car fast. you will not get a "WOW" experience by doing anything simple to an EA82. advancing the timing is a great idea though if you want to run higher grade gas. very simple, 10 minute job. but you'll likely need higher octane. myphalyx did some dyno tests on his XT6 and i think he got 7 or 11 hp increase just with timing advancing. that's alot for NA, but not very noticeable while driving. and that was on a 6 cylinder, not a 4, so expect lower numbers, close to the same percentage.

if you're not looking for much power, a complete tune up can help a good deal. test compression so you know you've got something solid to work with if you're looking for significant gains. a normally aspirated (non-turbo) is hard to get more horsepower out of. i completely resealed a guys XT EA82 a couple years back (3AT transmission) and it ran better after i was done. against my recommendations he had the heads ported, polished and upgraded delta cams....$1,000+ worth of work...and it was not very much increase with all that work and parts. i think the reseal alone, new head gaskets and a valve job and cleaning everything up might have been most of the increase. but it was by no means "fast" even with all that work. that's why i say a basic tune up....plugs, wires, cap, rotor, carb stuff, timing belts, changed trans fluids will all help some. open up the intake and exhaust a little should help some. a turbo is much easier to extract power from, so your best bet for performance increases you can feel is to go with an EA82T.

agreed, i'm not interested in experience anyway, he's been lied to or misinformed. i don't know sam but if i did i might pat him on the back for a heck of a last name! HEY - where is this dude! i think he traded it in already!

not sure why you're fired up. i was asking where the crack was, i never insinuated the dealer or you at fault for anything. maybe you thought i was joking? i was literally curious where they would have a tendency to crack. i never implicated you or your dealer, i'm glad you're comfortable there. i'm just a hobbiest, but no need to tear me down. i'm an aerospace engineer at NASA, i've had plenty of classes relating to stress, fatigue, failure, materials, engineering, casting, foundry, isotopes, alloys, etc. and i've happened to pull apart lots of motors that have overheated and not overheated. i don't like his dealer lying to him, that's the bottom line. i have held the same point all along, they have been unfair and lied to him. that's my only stance and i don't think he should tolerate that. i was even trying to make it humerous as i'm finding it amusing that he still hasn't returned!!

i was searching for some swap information this morning and saw past thread on swapping a turbo into an NA car. use the search function...click on "advanced search option" or whatever it's called to narrow it down. i used "2.2 swap" and "2.5 swap" searching in "titles only" and the "New Generation forum" and saw some good threads.

did you see the crack yourself? i'm curious where they crack. this would be good information to know so those of us that frequently work on motors know where to look. it certainly can happen. it is very unlikely and would require extended driving while overheating or horrific luck. my biggest beef with these idiots is that they a$$ume catastrophe even though it'$ not likely without explaining anything. they $hould explain the $ituation and let the cu$tomer decide. i would totally understand if they highly suggested replacing the motor because they don't know and they won't take the risk or tell the customer X amount of dollars to pull the heads and check it. but they are absolutely lying by saying "it's a cracked block", i would trust them no further. if i can't trust them there i trust them no further. has this guy even returned to and read this thread yet? ha ha!

i'm about 30 minutes from Frederick. not many MD members. there is one other very active MD member and he's in frederick, other than us two not a ton of active members that i can think of. i know another guy around the philly area but he lives in DE and is very active here as well. they will likely both chime in.

intake bolts are problems on the EA82 and ER27 as well, i've had many many of these snap. if you have any more that are stuck, spray liberally with Liquid Wrench or PB BLaster (don't use WD40, not nearly as good). try to get it down or around the bolt hole if there is any access at all. if they come out a little bit then start to bind or won't come out, tigthen them back down, then loosen, then tigthen. repeat this a few times before trying to get them all the way out. tap the head with a hammer. if you can get it out at least about 1/4 inch, this has often worked great for me, use a prybar to exert alot of upward force on the bolt while simultaneously turning it out with the socket wrench. need enough room under the head to get the prybar / digging bar under it. i've had alot of bolts that come out a little bit, but then spin in place and won't come the rest of the way. drills and sawzall can finish a really tough job.