idosubaru

buy an EA81 from RAM Performance. or EA82T swap, they are easy enough to find.

what could you do to get rid of that code and the CE light? can a single port 2.2 Liter exhaust manifold be used in place of the DOHC dual port exhaust? and then everything is a straight swap?

the bracket/bolting on part is definitely cake. start thinking how we'll attach it to the intercooler, that's the only part a little up in the air, but it can't be that hard. i can also be home from work around 3pm in the afternoons some days, so i could meet you through the week that way too. right now i think Sunday afternoon is mostly open after 1ish.

excellent, nice job hotdog. 'bout time someone else just went in there and did it. it is aweomse isn't it? i said in my first post to this thread that it's one of the best modifications you can do to an AWD Auto subaru. it rocks indeed. and it's super easy. i thought people would jump all over this.

good deal, that's great news. doubt the heads will have issue, should be fine. is it time to think about new timing belt, pulleys and water pump while it's all apart? better to have this all done and good to go for another couple years then go through another major repair soon. i just looked back, 72,000 miles. i'd probably think about having the belts, pulleys and water pump replaced and oil pump resealed while it's all apart...if they'll do it for reasonable charge anyway. i'd ask. you're looking at a timing belt job in 25,000 miles...that might only be a year away or less for some. dealer quoted my cousin $699 to replace her timing belt this summer on a 2000 2.5 liter. i did it for cost of parts. otherwise this major expense will be upon you soon. the overheating (if extensive) and taking apart won't help the life of the belt anyway.

fix and sell is the way to go. i'd get an estimate on the body work and go from there, if you can't do it yourself it'll likely be too expensive to have someone do it without taking a loss. pic's of the bad/rusted spots would help those with body experience give you some advice. the thing looks great.

above the pedal assembly is a white connector on an XT6 at least...not sure your configuration exactly. this connector gets corroded and shorts out causing loss of rear tail lights and eventually head lights too. look for a white connector (though that's XT6 info, so yours could be different), so also look for any connector that looks damaged. disconnect and reconnect. a bad one will be brittle and look burned with wire damage. a white connector can be easily browned by a short. seen this happen to three of my soobs (XT6's), it seems most likely in manual trans as snow sticks to your feet and can brush off awfully close to that connector and short it out. looks like you live near snow and it's winter, so if you have a manual trans i wouldn't be surprised if you have a connector up there that is bad.

i have weekends off starting next week, so if you want to come down one day on a weekend we can put something together no problem. can't imagine it would take very long....except the drive is annoying of course.

at 150,000 miles it could still be the original fluid or very old. i'd start with just a basic high quality ATF flush first. new fluid could help very much. have you had the car long enough to be sure it doesn't leak at all? install a trans cooler while you're at. if you use the expensive stuff, install new hoses and clamps. i've never used Redline so i'm not positive, but i would be very surprised if you put that in the rear diff. gear oil and transmission fluid are very different. use gear oil in the rear and front diff.

this is the start of a classic headgasket thread. they are notorious for being undetectable in terms of the typical head gasket tests. was helping a local mechanic track down an overheating issue on one of these motors since im familiar with subarus. same thing...overheated but no leaks, passed the coolant tester he had, thermostat replaced twice and tested in a pan and reinstalled. i told him the same thing- headgasket. you should snoop around a littler, sounds like you already have. but you should replace the thermostat to be sure. and are you loosing any coolant? if you're loosing coolant and you don't see leaking and your passengers side floorboard aint wet, then it looks like headgasket to me.

i can't remember the exact details, but when i did my first 2.2 i used the search function and found everything i needed. links to endwrench articles, pictures and details straight from subaru. was easy enough.

torque bind - is the transmission lugging when it makes this noise? the car feels a little weighted down sort of when it's making the nosie? ice/snow isn't getting packed under the wheel wells is it? i'd guess CV joint if it's not torque bind.

im a clutch idiot because i like driving automatics, but i asked about adjusting the clutch cable to alleviate some other symptom on an older subaru and was told that is a bad fix as it will cause other problems. but if you're clutch is about to go maybe it doesn't really matter anyway.

i like what boosted just said, keep it simple. verify spark at each cylinder. gotta know you got good spark at each cylinder before getting complicated. in my experience, the water temperature sensor is a notorious cause of problems. i've had it cause a no start with no CE light once before as well. the sensor will be fine, the contacts will be horribly degraded. i posted a thread about how to permanently fix it if your connector/contacts are corroded. pull the harness/connector off of it and make sure the metal is good and clean.

i'd guess 15' is too short for your needs, i'd hold out for something better. i don't know how long mine is, i think it's a 15 footer, but it's not long enough. i usually wish it were longer. it's hard to be "too long" but can get "too short" in a hurry when you wish it wasn't. you guys have had the factory tow hooks pull out? i use them all the time for pulling/dragging other cars in snow, mud, whatever. what do you do in place of these hooks? and i know nothing about 4 wheeling, offroading. i've never gotten into it, i just hunt, fishin, drive through snow for fun or to go sledding...basically when i need to. never go trail riding or anything so keep the 4WD lingo to a minimum!

full sized spares and a floor jack rock for any road trips. flashlight i wouldn't bother with tune-up stuff if the car is running fine and it has been taken care of. just keep up the standard maintenance, if it's time then do it, if not then do it when it is.

better yet, run your car hot until the overheating blows the headgasket EXTERNALLY and then take it in...maybe to another dealer. people can and do get cars fixed after the warranty period, but it requires good touch or good people skills or threats, or persistence or some combination of all of these. just asking and accepting they're first answer will rarely get you anywhere. good luck. i say install a 2.2 liter motor, they never blow headgaskets and are much better motors for reliabilitythough have less power.

oh crack i forgot about removing the old gasket...this job sucks! don't yank at the pan, it'll look like it comes off easy, but don't let that deceive you. there are baffles in the pan with cut outs in them that the oil sump runs through towards the bottom of the pan. the pan will have to be "slid" around in a way...can't think of a good way to describe it. just don't yank at it. if it won't come off (which it won't at first eventhough it looks like it should), keep sliding it around until all the stars align and it comes off.

the oil pan is a pain. you'll have to unbolt the engine mounts and actually lift the motor a few inches to get at the rear bolts of the pan. are you absolutely sure the oil pan is the cause of leaks? often times every other leak in the engine...valve covers, crank seals, cam seals, cam o-rings, head gaskets....will leak oil that coagulates on the engine crossmember and drips down all over and around the oil pan. on any leaky subaru, the oil pan is wet and dripping usually but it's not because the oil pan is leaking anything. i'd verify for sure it's leaking before starting this job. and yes the exhaust will have to come, but often the exhaust manifold gaskets are reusable. more than likely to have some stripped exhaust manifold head stud holes though, that's very common and fun (nope sure isn't!!!). you can do a visual on the exhaust gaskets, if they leak then order new ones. or order new ones ahead of time and you're golden. i have lots of extra XT6 header gaskets because i've bought them but reused the old ones.

off a generic website, doesn't say auto or manual. 1996 Subaru Legacy Outback 9.8 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback Ltd. 9.1

radio shack sells the switch i used. like he said...a few minutes and i was done. works perfect "50/50" split. i'm confused why people aren't just doing this instead of poking around the internet, looking for more options and gizmos. a switch and cutting one wire is easy. this thread is crazy long for one switch.

we have them over at www.xt6.net go to the Parts Wanted Forum and like the first thread is an XT and XT6 parts sheet, i've seen the rear mustache bar there.

i have one made from a carriage bolt, the head if filed down to grab the pin. made by someone else, not me.

yeah i was curious about that too will. they're all swappable as far as i know, never heard or could imagine a difference.

the ECU (engine computer) will throw a code anytime it sees an issue with a circuit related to the input it receives. so basically any sensor in the engine bay can give a bad reading, but it's not always critical. depends which sensor it is and what kind of failure mode or problem it is experiencing. sometimes it's just corrossion on a connector making a bad connection. sometimes the car will drive, sometimes it won't, again that just depends. now if something really bad happened it is possible a check engine light could indicate bad things for your car and you shouldn't be driving it, particularly since you have an interference engine. if a failing timing belt rips your crank sensor wire off, so the ECU sees no crank sensor input and the CEL light goes on then that's a problem. that's not a realistic scenario, just something off the top of my head as a disclaimer that it "might" not be good to drive it. there's no certainty until you get it checked out.