idosubaru

If it’s just leaking then a reseal will fix it. No need to replace. Though Having a used one on hand is not bad just in case.

Trash the Haynes and get an FSM. The 1988 XT was scanned and available for a long time free on Subaruxt.com but may not be there any more. The 4 cylinder 1988 XT is an EA82 and the same timing belt and oil pump components as the locale. In the odd event the 10mm housing bolts are tight work them back and forth a few degrees, loosen a tiny bit/tighten/loosen and allow substantial time between working them to cool down so they don’t overheat and shear. oil pumps never really do this but it happens enough in a few other places on that engine it’s worth mentioning, like I’ve seen it on the water pumps and Tstat housings and it’s common on intake manifold bolts on that engine. Oil pumps typically come off really easy. Retain orientation of the rotor when you pull it. It can slide off the shaft and stay in the block. Clean the pump and around it - this can take forever if it’s been leaking it’ll have caked oil everywhere. I use a 32mm “12 point” socket to hold the shaft on the engine side and remove the shaft nut. Fits perfect. Next step is easiest place to incur damage. Be careful getting the pulley off the pump. There’s a metal lip on the pulley, like a guide for the timing belt. This often gets bent trying to pry off old stuck pulleys. Yours has a good chance of being real tight if it’s leaking because it’s been on there forever. Rather than pry the pulley hard try to adequately support the pump housing and tap the shaft through the pump and pulley. FSM calls for dabs of anaerobic sealant where the two block halves join together at 12 noon and 6pm, look carefully on the Center line and you’ll see it. I usually do this but have skipped it without issue too. Replace the shaft seal, prep all your surface and reinstall with new oring and Mickey Mouse gasket. The Mickey Mouse ‘gasket’ is confusing because its not typical gasket ‘material’ but oring material. but it’s also not a “ring” or an “o” in terms of physical shape. So the terminology is easily confused.

And like Gloyale said the 2.5s have a lot of issues so JDM swap prices can reflect headgasket (or more) costs. JDM swaps look really attractive for the time, parts, and turn around savings.

Market demand is the determinant price driver. That can sometimes be engine size. Here, age reflects higher in the JDM sector than engine size for the engines/vehicles you’re referencing The two 3.0 variants (01-04 and 05+) are older engines on average than the 2.5i and have come down in price significantly in recent years. The 2.5is are applicable to newer vehicles and have higher demand It is no surprise to see JDM engine prices drop over time due to market constraints. You can also compare prices on eBay and other JDM sites.

Good job. I assumed you wouldn’t need that solder option, I just put it out there for others. If the check engine light is on read the codes, don’t just keep guessing. It takes 2 minutes. Ive daily driven XT6s for 25 years and owned a ton of them, there is zero worry about the ECU or wiring. You pop the trunk and count a blinking light. It seems like the failed component should test differently between cold start and hot restart. I would write down readings when cold and test again during a *hot restart with symptoms presenting*. Don’t test unless the symptoms present. I would wonder if you pulled the hot IAC if the visible valve would be partially stuck and physically appear in a different orientation than when cold. The hot-only restart issue does seem like an electro mechanical device is physically sticking, either the CTS or IAC. Electrical properties frequently present at higher temps too but this seems to have an electrical-mechanical feel to it and not just wiring.

In some cases I have cut a notch through the side of the sensor-side connector in order to facilitate soldering a wire to each metal pin on the connector. Then end each wire with an individual connector and it’s appropriate matching half on the engine side. Its easy, cheap, repeatable and a good solution in some cases but I can see that you probably won’t need to nor want to here. Someone else may stumble onto this later or be following along.

6 years in NY is probably higher than average. City, mountains, winter, and 1/4 of the US population living within a small area - not a recipe for great clutch life. Being accusatory while avoiding information isn't helpful unless increased ambient anxiety is the goal: 1. Clutches are wear items. They wear just like brakes. “the same thing has happened” suggests two different vehicles were driven in the same environment by the same person. It’s exactly what one would predict, not a surprise 2. Clutches can last a long time, but that’s not common and requires specific constraints to maximize mileage or age. 3. If maintenance costs are a concern do not buy a manual trans Subarus. MTs are more maintenance and they have not been more reliable or cheaper to own than automatics for decades now 4. The most obvious common denominator is the driver and how it’s driven - not the vehicle or age 5.Occam’s razor tells us most likely the clutch isn’t used in a manner conducive of exceptionally long life. Which again isn’t a surprise given what we know so far 6. If he previously got more miles out of clutches then the vehicle is now being driven differently or it was in a vehicle with a beastly clutch. 7. The vehicle is 6 years old - plenty of time for miles and use and wear to accumulate. 8. we were never told what failed in the “first similar era car” 9. We don’t know what failed in the current car 10. We don’t even know what model, year, miles are on either vehcile referenced 11. Common issues are usually easily searched and found online Did you search? If you don’t find anything reread items 1-10 above That is a lot of missing information to start assigning blame. Helpful things to know would be: how many Miles, did he buy them new, what part exactly failed, and what type of driving is being done?

reboot them instead of replace them. or get a used one and reboot it.

Thanks i'll pick some of that up and check out the POR 15 too if needed.

I doubt that will work, you may mean the same thing but I'm not just talking about cleaning an engine bay to make it look nice but rather tons of oil caked on everywhere so i can find the leaks. i've tried a lot of cleaners/degreasers and none of them really work that well for getting off loads of leaking oil from the underneath.

Ah thanks I totally would have done that!

Yeah that's a tough call. Any rust - maybe you should just move on now? JDM has inexpensive solution options sometimes? were there any check engine lights before this happened? Low oil, too long between changes, and/or not using synthetic ....? Cut the filter open and check the oil there and in the oil pan. I'd get another block under the suspicion that something caused this and may have caused additional compromising of the oil/rod bearings. But Fergloyale is well experienced and didn't say anything...

It's fine - you can run them indefinitely. in FWD. done it lots of times and some for years. anyone that says damage will incur, you will also notice, or find out, is speaking anecdotally. take it with a grain of salt.

I've used Royal Purple, other suggestions, and general auto parts "Engine Degreasers", i guess they help but weren't magical. I know heat helps and @GeneralDisorder has posted about using a hot water heater and pressure washer. Maybe I should try my pressure washer and see what happens and plumb a hot water fitting into my basement for hot water since I'm about to do plumbing work anyway.

check clutch slave cylinder and hose and fork like GD said, they crack and have intermittent issues before complete failure. also fluid can change shift characteristics - proper weight sytnhetic all the way. also the slaves can be notorious for bleeding/air bubbles if air is introduced but i wouldn't suspect the increasing symtpoms like you described with that.

I'm not sure - but if I had to guess I'd guess the 2005's also have a higher failure rate of wheel bearings. i don't see enough Subaru's to know, but all things being equal (which is nearly impossible now due to age/miles of older stuff) but i'd guess like somewhere in the 90's and earlier fail less often at lower miles than late 90's until now.

Got it - a higher bearing failure ***rate*** is the new norm for *a wide range* of vehicles, not just crosstek's or Subaru's. Plenty still make 150,000 miles without issues, but it's no surprise to see a few early failures like this. For illustration purposes only, these numbers are inaccurate, but 20 years ago let's say early bearing failure happened 5% of the time, now it's 15%. That would mean it's a crazy high 300% failure rate increase but plenty still never see issues either.

i don't think so - don't seem any more prone than anything else. how many have you seen - all on the same vehicle?

Not necessary on this swap, if you swap intake manifolds you'll still have a non-starting engine if the trigger marks mentioned above are different. This is a well known engine there's no need to guess about intake manifolds. Swap the p/s cam and crank sprocket and those two engines will swap every time.

yes those are the same long block and interchangeable if you're positive of the engine year/model. there are two style cam/crank triggers - one for manuals and one for automatics. so either: verify they're the same, or swap the passengers side cam sprocket and crank sprocket from the old engine onto the new. it should be getting new timing components anyway so it's not really any extra work, not that it's hard anyway relative to an engine swap. manual transmissions get a timing belt guard above the crank sprocket, swap that if needed/desired as well.

yes, AISIN is commonly used by those wanting a one-stop shop for nearly subaru parts. it's $260 +shipping with a 5% discount code at rockauto while the coolant is empty and you have to remove the thermostat anyway, it's a good time to replace that with Subaru as well. If possible - check first before buying parts. we're assuming unknown age/brand but is there any possibility some of it is new subaru once you get in there?

no one is. we're essentially meaning the same thing and clarifying through discussion. that's all.

We basically said the same thing - get OEM supplier parts. No one is saying he has to use the dealer, it's an option but not a requirement. But more importantly, on a discussion forum one expects a discussion, not a treatise. The OP can ask for options if they're not accustomed to sourcing parts or pricing is an issue. It's a discussion and that'll come out as needed.

this: Get them from Subaru or Aisin kits on rockauto/amazon. I'd replace the cam and crank seals too and reseal the oil pump while the timing belt is off.

Nah keep the original axles. The originals are robust and can last the life of the car if regreased and rebooted. New axles such decaying trash. Problems all the time. Timing pulleys replace at regular intervals. They’re ancient and lack grease and will strand you if they fail. I use a needle fitting and pump them with new grease in XT6s where pulleys aren’t available , if you can’t get parts.