idosubaru

if it has tires for the job!

You should tell us what year/vehicle and what engine went into it. If you straight swapped an 00-04 EJ25 then you probably need to swap the drivers side cam and crank sprockets from the original engine to the new one.

If the threads are good reuse them. Test them by spinning a nut on them to ensure smooth thread engagement. If reused so many times that it’s an issue, that raises a lot of questions about the integrity of the engine, history or maintenance.

Helicoil and 7/16 are both easy. Tap it and done.

No, your intake manifold is a different bolt pattern and won’t bolt up.

No one does it for a reason. Do an engine swap or get a different car. Slapping a turbo on high compression engines is rife with issues. Swap in an EJ25 block and bolt your 2.2 heads to it. That’s the ticket. Super easy, no custom work, no wiring, no fueling, no extra work at all. Bolt in and go. They can take low boost if done right but it’s too much work for too little gain and you’ll want more anyway or blow the engine(s). Also - if you’ve got the money and skills to fabricate custom exhaust, intake, oil and cooling, fuel control...you have more than enough resources to do an engine swap with better results. Buy a cheap 01-04 EZ30 with rust , wrecked, or blown trans and you’ve got 215 hp. Turbo swaps can be done for more $ and work.

can you see the bearings? if you can Inject some grease via a needle fitting down into the bearings and spin/work them back and forth to get the grease down into it. i recall doing this on other struts in the past, but feel like some i've seen recently, the bearings weren't accessible externally to do this? look for some used strut mounts, pull a part, ask here, etc, junk cars on craigslist/facebook marketplace. don't buy a cheap aftermarket one - they fail all the time and bulge like crazy, i can't believe those companies can even survive producing stuff that bad.

i'd install another distributor and keep that one as a back up. ; or repair the threads with a heli-coil type solution.

drain the oil and check for debris/swirls. odds are insanely high the axle was the original issue.

Huck - this is what I do. Check engine light doesn't matter so I just install a non-EGR engine and run it. Plug and play, runs like a top. You can also install the EGR intake manifold - and just run a hose from the EGR port on the drivers side to the IAC hose on the passengers side (install a T-fitting there) and you won't get a check engine light and no need to drill the block.

What he said - start light and increase pressure.

A Subaru tech said that? I dont have a problem being wrong - that’s how we learn. but misguiding/guessing under the ruse of “Subaru tech” or professional...come on, that’s not helpful.

are there any check engine lights? does the AT light flash 16 times at first start up? change the transmission fluid. engine performance is often mis-interpreted as poor transmission performance. plugs and air filter would be worth checking or replacing. i doubt this is the case but earlier H6's had weak throttle position sensors. not sure 2003's really have that issue but maybe they do or maybe yours somehow has an 01-02 TPS on it due to prior engine work in the life of the vehicle.

if you're mechanically interested and not novelty driven, stick around and you'll see this forum is waaaaaay different than others and for it's faults has some massive upside. yes - if you're the more automotively social type and want to tinker and hard data doesn't matter as much as the parallel play - another forum would be a better fit. this forum is practical to a fault. it's the most practical and helpful, mechanically literate subaru specific forum by far. but that also means it doesn't really tolerate typical forum banter and diatribe. some of the people on here run highly successful Subaru businesses, are enormously well respected and I owe them about 142 lunches for all they've taught me over the years. i try to respect their time and hope that in some ways we are all making it easy for them to continue to contribute with high demands and in a situation where most of their subaru talk/engagement is making them money but this is not. a lot of people are used to other forums and 13 page mundane, mechanically/data/physically illiterate discussions or tossing around 8 bad ideas and hoping one of them is right....that's cool too, most people seem to like that, and any other subaru forum can do that. i would try to identify the 8% of the posters who know what they're talking about - and be careful taking anyone elses advice - check it/google it/etc. this forum isn't like that. I'm on those forums though recently have been distancing myself, because it gets old seeing responses that aren't helpful or flat out wrong. it's hard to help the original poster because three other posts are low grade ideas from uncle larry, the 1970's, or they're anecdotal 3 Subaru experience - yet they post and defend their posts without learning/data being the focus. this forum doesn't tolerate that at all. which has both bad and good sides to it.

could also rotate them front to the back for a quick test. not entirely conclusive but easy.

get new Subaru axles or used Subaru axles and reboot them. $15-$30 for an almost guaranteed known good OEM axle. the axle(s) you installed are trash and a likely cause of the issue. i also won't install any aftermarket axles. just to make up numbers....33% are bad out of the box....50% will have issues in 1-3 years....more will have issues after that...anyone that doesn't know that simply isn't doing many Subaru axles or following up on them.

Now that I think about it, for those that don't care about tickets, would insurance deny a 6 figure claim based on registration status? Probably not. Insurance and registration are largely separate and probably aren't conflated too often but with 6 figure+ claims, the only ones I really care about, I still wonder. The only direct implications I can see are if the vehicle is absolved from inspections due to the registration status. thereby the user could be construed as circumventing public safety by avoiding inspections...but I assume they'd still have to prove that it was caused due to a specific safety issue for that to hold. so if we don't have wheels falling off and causing accidents maybe we're okay...so the rust belt owners better beware. LOL

Flying under the radar is certainly a factor. A lot of people just drive them anyway but I think it’s rare to do so with an actual daily driver which is what mine is I don’t care about police, but liability. If there’s a wreck with 6 or 7 figure lawsuits and lawyers involved I don’t want the legality of the car to be in question no matter who’s at fault. That happened to a close friend and someone who I think is member of this forum and known by quite a few members. A hundred dollars or a night in jail is no big deal compared to that. Granted this is all uncertain - I don’t know what would happen or if insurance would actually deny. But insurance policies often include language which requires compliance with the law. And with 6+ figures on the table it’s just not worth my time. Maybe I’ll google it one day this week and see if there’s any info out there.

Check inner axle joints. I’ve seen aftermarket new axles blow to pieces in 100 miles, 1 mile....their ability to fail doesn’t surprise me. drain fluid and check condition, for debris, etc. check for codes should start your own thread for diagnosis. Clutters up a specific topic to put it here.

Very much so if you want to stay within the law: https://www.dol.wa.gov/vehicleregistration/spcollector.html I can get antique plates for the XT6, including allowing you to use plates from the year it was built (which is cool), but within the limits of the law they're useless for me.

picture above, rear passenger side plug. why do you think it's the coil pack? if this wasn't properly diagnosed then it's often something else.

great. it'll be obvious to you and you have piles of parts, if using XT6 calipers then an XT6 caliper bracket pin is installed on the impreza brackets.

Post a picture of it or a link to a picture somewhere else if you can’t post it here. In rust prone areas it's common to see cars with rusty frame rails which are not a problem. And then sometimes I can be. But yes if it’s just getting trashed or junked, it’s basically worthless. A rusty scrap heap isn’t worth more because it’s got a few new parts in it.

Rust also drives the market. Brakes without grab is probably fluid, stuck pins, leaks, or seized caliper - more expensive than pads, which are still $150 or 25% of what the car is worth.

It’s not the same. The racks can differ internally, power steering without assist can be harder to turn than a manual rack. That - what racks are they using? SVX suspension, hubs, and axles are easily installed into EJ vehicles, so presumably whatever works in a rare SVX might be an easy option for EJs