idosubaru

And like Gloyale said the 2.5s have a lot of issues so JDM swap prices can reflect headgasket (or more) costs. JDM swaps look really attractive for the time, parts, and turn around savings.

Market demand is the determinant price driver. That can sometimes be engine size. Here, age reflects higher in the JDM sector than engine size for the engines/vehicles you’re referencing The two 3.0 variants (01-04 and 05+) are older engines on average than the 2.5i and have come down in price significantly in recent years. The 2.5is are applicable to newer vehicles and have higher demand It is no surprise to see JDM engine prices drop over time due to market constraints. You can also compare prices on eBay and other JDM sites.

Good job. I assumed you wouldn’t need that solder option, I just put it out there for others. If the check engine light is on read the codes, don’t just keep guessing. It takes 2 minutes. Ive daily driven XT6s for 25 years and owned a ton of them, there is zero worry about the ECU or wiring. You pop the trunk and count a blinking light. It seems like the failed component should test differently between cold start and hot restart. I would write down readings when cold and test again during a *hot restart with symptoms presenting*. Don’t test unless the symptoms present. I would wonder if you pulled the hot IAC if the visible valve would be partially stuck and physically appear in a different orientation than when cold. The hot-only restart issue does seem like an electro mechanical device is physically sticking, either the CTS or IAC. Electrical properties frequently present at higher temps too but this seems to have an electrical-mechanical feel to it and not just wiring.

In some cases I have cut a notch through the side of the sensor-side connector in order to facilitate soldering a wire to each metal pin on the connector. Then end each wire with an individual connector and it’s appropriate matching half on the engine side. Its easy, cheap, repeatable and a good solution in some cases but I can see that you probably won’t need to nor want to here. Someone else may stumble onto this later or be following along.

6 years in NY is probably higher than average. City, mountains, winter, and 1/4 of the US population living within a small area - not a recipe for great clutch life. Being accusatory while avoiding information isn't helpful unless increased ambient anxiety is the goal: 1. Clutches are wear items. They wear just like brakes. “the same thing has happened” suggests two different vehicles were driven in the same environment by the same person. It’s exactly what one would predict, not a surprise 2. Clutches can last a long time, but that’s not common and requires specific constraints to maximize mileage or age. 3. If maintenance costs are a concern do not buy a manual trans Subarus. MTs are more maintenance and they have not been more reliable or cheaper to own than automatics for decades now 4. The most obvious common denominator is the driver and how it’s driven - not the vehicle or age 5.Occam’s razor tells us most likely the clutch isn’t used in a manner conducive of exceptionally long life. Which again isn’t a surprise given what we know so far 6. If he previously got more miles out of clutches then the vehicle is now being driven differently or it was in a vehicle with a beastly clutch. 7. The vehicle is 6 years old - plenty of time for miles and use and wear to accumulate. 8. we were never told what failed in the “first similar era car” 9. We don’t know what failed in the current car 10. We don’t even know what model, year, miles are on either vehcile referenced 11. Common issues are usually easily searched and found online Did you search? If you don’t find anything reread items 1-10 above That is a lot of missing information to start assigning blame. Helpful things to know would be: how many Miles, did he buy them new, what part exactly failed, and what type of driving is being done?

reboot them instead of replace them. or get a used one and reboot it.

Thanks i'll pick some of that up and check out the POR 15 too if needed.

I doubt that will work, you may mean the same thing but I'm not just talking about cleaning an engine bay to make it look nice but rather tons of oil caked on everywhere so i can find the leaks. i've tried a lot of cleaners/degreasers and none of them really work that well for getting off loads of leaking oil from the underneath.

Ah thanks I totally would have done that!

Yeah that's a tough call. Any rust - maybe you should just move on now? JDM has inexpensive solution options sometimes? were there any check engine lights before this happened? Low oil, too long between changes, and/or not using synthetic ....? Cut the filter open and check the oil there and in the oil pan. I'd get another block under the suspicion that something caused this and may have caused additional compromising of the oil/rod bearings. But Fergloyale is well experienced and didn't say anything...

It's fine - you can run them indefinitely. in FWD. done it lots of times and some for years. anyone that says damage will incur, you will also notice, or find out, is speaking anecdotally. take it with a grain of salt.

I've used Royal Purple, other suggestions, and general auto parts "Engine Degreasers", i guess they help but weren't magical. I know heat helps and @GeneralDisorder has posted about using a hot water heater and pressure washer. Maybe I should try my pressure washer and see what happens and plumb a hot water fitting into my basement for hot water since I'm about to do plumbing work anyway.

check clutch slave cylinder and hose and fork like GD said, they crack and have intermittent issues before complete failure. also fluid can change shift characteristics - proper weight sytnhetic all the way. also the slaves can be notorious for bleeding/air bubbles if air is introduced but i wouldn't suspect the increasing symtpoms like you described with that.

I'm not sure - but if I had to guess I'd guess the 2005's also have a higher failure rate of wheel bearings. i don't see enough Subaru's to know, but all things being equal (which is nearly impossible now due to age/miles of older stuff) but i'd guess like somewhere in the 90's and earlier fail less often at lower miles than late 90's until now.

Got it - a higher bearing failure ***rate*** is the new norm for *a wide range* of vehicles, not just crosstek's or Subaru's. Plenty still make 150,000 miles without issues, but it's no surprise to see a few early failures like this. For illustration purposes only, these numbers are inaccurate, but 20 years ago let's say early bearing failure happened 5% of the time, now it's 15%. That would mean it's a crazy high 300% failure rate increase but plenty still never see issues either.

i don't think so - don't seem any more prone than anything else. how many have you seen - all on the same vehicle?

Not necessary on this swap, if you swap intake manifolds you'll still have a non-starting engine if the trigger marks mentioned above are different. This is a well known engine there's no need to guess about intake manifolds. Swap the p/s cam and crank sprocket and those two engines will swap every time.

yes those are the same long block and interchangeable if you're positive of the engine year/model. there are two style cam/crank triggers - one for manuals and one for automatics. so either: verify they're the same, or swap the passengers side cam sprocket and crank sprocket from the old engine onto the new. it should be getting new timing components anyway so it's not really any extra work, not that it's hard anyway relative to an engine swap. manual transmissions get a timing belt guard above the crank sprocket, swap that if needed/desired as well.

yes, AISIN is commonly used by those wanting a one-stop shop for nearly subaru parts. it's $260 +shipping with a 5% discount code at rockauto while the coolant is empty and you have to remove the thermostat anyway, it's a good time to replace that with Subaru as well. If possible - check first before buying parts. we're assuming unknown age/brand but is there any possibility some of it is new subaru once you get in there?

no one is. we're essentially meaning the same thing and clarifying through discussion. that's all.

We basically said the same thing - get OEM supplier parts. No one is saying he has to use the dealer, it's an option but not a requirement. But more importantly, on a discussion forum one expects a discussion, not a treatise. The OP can ask for options if they're not accustomed to sourcing parts or pricing is an issue. It's a discussion and that'll come out as needed.

this: Get them from Subaru or Aisin kits on rockauto/amazon. I'd replace the cam and crank seals too and reseal the oil pump while the timing belt is off.

Nah keep the original axles. The originals are robust and can last the life of the car if regreased and rebooted. New axles such decaying trash. Problems all the time. Timing pulleys replace at regular intervals. They’re ancient and lack grease and will strand you if they fail. I use a needle fitting and pump them with new grease in XT6s where pulleys aren’t available , if you can’t get parts.

you won't be swapping it due to the CANBUS debacle mentioned earlier. buy a manual transmission vehicle or enjoy an automatic for what it is - less maintenance, more flexible, easier to replace, and more reliable.

This is all going to sound more confusing that it is if you haven't looked at one, so we might be ahead of ourselves. Get the FSM and look at pic's. it's available free online. Basically it just comes down to: 1. getting the entire center console, buttons, and shifter assembly. 2. make sure the transmission has the actuator assembly on the transmission - large disc shaped part with vacuum hoses. most transmissions should just come with it, so it should look like it's part of the trans and come with it. 3. get all the associated wiring, vacuum tubes for the 4WD actuator mentioned above, and the switching solenoid in the engine bay associated with those vacuum tubes. There are two different manual transmissions for XT's, often referred to as FT4WD (which is the referenced 'diff lock controller') and PT4WD. PT4WD is FWD and you push the button in the stick shift for 4WD. The button is in the stick shift, so you'd want a PT4WD shifter and linkages/wiring. I think in the US this is 1985 and 1986 XT's. FT4WD is 4WD all the time but has a locking center differential button which is in the center console. If you get the entire center console assembly you'll have all that stuff. Then you just need to pull all the wiring/hoses/solenoid for the 4WD mechanism on the transmission. And make sure you ask about wiring - I'm not sure what wiring you'll incur. You'll need to wire in a reverse light switch for sure and the ECU's are not transmission dependent so that doesn't matter and the main harness i think doesn't matter but you'll want to read/search more or ask someone more familiar with swapping and wiring than me.