idosubaru

00-04 outbacks are the same in this regard, here's a diagram which should show the hardware you'll need as well - bolts/washer/nut which often need cut off. https://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?makeName=subaru&modelYear=2003&modelName=legacy25l-at-4wdoutback-wagon&ukey_assembly=6029084&ukey_category=54106&assembly=b12-201-02

I always feel like it's taking way longer than it should and get the sense something is wrong....but it never is, I just wait it out, give it time and it eventually goes in....but I imagine you already did that? Are you charging it via manifolds or feeding it directly, are they opened properly? Is the car running with the A/C on high when you're charging? I'll rev the engine to bump up the A/C compressor rpm's sometimes, though i don't know if that actually does anything...

Keep in mind 2002s are not like 2005+. Ideally, describe your symptoms and go from there rather than referencing “ghost walking” which has specific 2005+ connotations *** Does it do it on dry pavement or only snow/ice? 1. Alignment. 2. Rear struts and springs - use KYB struts. Baja turbo rear springs are a little stiffer and give 1/2” lift in the rear if you carry/tow a lot they’re a good option. * look at each wheel - does one rear wheel seem to be sagging a slight bit lower than the other side? Measure them if you have to. If one is lower than the other side your springs and struts should be repacked. 3. Rear bushings. They’re likely frozen and should be inspected during the alignment. Alignment often can’t be properly adjusted until those bushings and arms are replaced. Ideally a good alignment tech is on it - ask them to look at those arms and bushings which adjust camber in the rear.

Correct - 95-98 is all basically interchangeable.

New oil pumps have fixed every TOD i've ever encountered which wouldn't go away with a simple oil pump reseal. (ignoring blown headgasket engines which has seized HLA's). Maybe it's a combo effect and cam orings/hla's are a big contributor, but pumps always fixed it for me. With higher mileages and age now the HLA's, internal tolerances, and seals are going to have a higher prevalence for sure. with the supply of new oil pumps being zero there's little choice but to try a few used ones, reseal the thing and install new HLA's. But if yours is in great condition, based on my past experience there's a very high chance of the TOD disappearing if you got another pump or figured out what causes the pumps to do that. The weird thing to me is none of the pumps i ever replaced looked problematic, the cars ran perfectly (besides the noise), and resealing the oil pump did not help. I'm not sure why that is and I never mic'ed/tested them - but there has to be a causative reason. If that could be determined there might be a way to refurbish or enhance existing pumps which dont (or rarely) seem to actually fail.

I forgot about the 90hp thing...im used to lifting and larger tires in (equally dead hahah) XT6s. I wouldn’t get into an EA around here without parts cars/stashes like I have for XTs, they’ve all rusted away.

90 hp! Ah! I’ve never off roaded/lifted an EA, I’m used to XT6s which at least have 145 hp and don’t struggle with large tires.

Run it. What necessary parts aren’t available?Convert to EJ alternator and front hubs and have all the OEM axles and bearings and brakes and more you could want.

Awesome. That’s great, thanks for reporting back.

Scott of SJR lifts will hook you up. He’s a member here and who i e gotten my lift bits from. Look up his facebook, website (it was down just a week or so ago though) or on here. Scott in Bellingham or something like that is his user name. Bolt it all up and you’re done. He will provide or tell you what additional things you need if any.

keep in mind people criticize the additives for “clogging up the cooling system”. I would think this happens in situations outside of designed purpose. Coolant gets low and internally causes pockets of air, larger temp gradients and momentary localized places of excessive heat or pressure - which causes the sealant to do internally what’s its only supposed to do at a leak. But this is actually 100% guessing, I’ve never heard anyone say anything like that, it just makes sense to me. either way - additives have a downside If I was using an additive in this case I would consider being meticulous about the radiator coolant level (not just the overflow) and any other comprised parts - hoses, leaks, radiator cap, Tstat, etc - in order to prevent any conditions internally which the system (and possibly additive) wasn’t designed for.

Throw out bearing or input shaft bearing. Not sure how to differentiate, someone will know. I’ve scoured the forum before to figure the diffenrences out.

That would be nice to verify which can be cloned. I’ve never pulled the trigger on trying that. They basically copy an existing key, making it a duplicate key and digital signature so it will work without actually reprogramming. I got cheap eBay keys to work so far. I Google the part numbers, check reviews, avoid ones with little info and which look terribly generic. I’ll get OEM looking ones if available (which’s have no merit, i don’t know) To me it’s helpfuk to get extra keys and remotes now, program it all and never think about it again even if you loose another key. .

Dealer here programs all your keys and remotes at the same time for $75. You can’t program “1 key” - all current keys and remotes need programmed at the same time. If you have three keys you need to give them all three to program the one new one. Take them your key and an extra one or two so you never have to think about this again. It’s “free” to program as many as you want so why not do an extra two keys and remotes.

I was sure I'd say "no" when i saw the title but the passage adjacent to that is not under pressure, it's just benign drain back. and the gasket has plenty of distance between the edge and that passage. if you have issues i highly doubt it'll be there. compare distance between the fire ring, 1,000 degree high compression cylinders to that area and it looks benign.

I remember XT6 TPSs would not calibrate to the FSM specs either and I posted about it like 20 years ago on the old yahoo forums I think. I think the FSM May be wrong or incomplete in some way. Its been a long time since I did one but from ancient memory - turn until the sensor “engages” (use whichever metric seems appropriate) right as the throttle body is opening. Want The throttle sensor to start registering once the plate starts to open. The throttle cable and cam will move some before the throttle plate in the throttle body starts to move. So pull the intake so you can see what the plate is doing. Get it close then tweak from there. Just do it manually like that, it’s not a big deal. It’s not really the precise science the FSM makes it sound like. I thought it was super critical years ago and it’s not I mean it is but it’s simple, not complicated. Someone blindfolded could literally do it without much issue. Keep turning until it works then tweak to dial it in youre positive it’s properly engaged with the throttle body? Also - are you checking at the sensor or further down the harness? I had one years ago flaking out, swapped TPS and got the same results - and it ended up being the harness right before the TPS (where it starts to bend) had a short in it. I cut a used one from another car and swapped it out and all was good.

do the EJ conversion now, or at the same time.

Correct - wet snow is enormously different and will stick, pack and high Center a vehicle very easily. Dry snow is no big deal. comments like “Subarus are good for up to 12” of snow” and “I drive through 18”” are anecdotal. It’s a differential equation, not black and white.

Buy a good quality all season tire. Or maybe try a cheap snow tire. snow tires are soft and will wear and degrade quickly in heat. But maybe that’s a good thing for your odd mileage needs. If you replace them more often than 11 years they might be a good fit. No way I’d want a cheap tire on my car for 10 years without researching RV maintenance and how to prolong tire life with your current usage I would get Michelin all seasons or the year round Nokians. They’ll probably barely underperform a cheap snow tire for two years but then shine for the remaining years you run them after that. ive seen cheap snow tires, even touted blizzacks, not grip as good after 2-3 years. If you actually need snow tires buy good ones, if the cost isn’t worth it to you then you don’t need them, get decent all seasons 11 year old tires is well beyond recommended tire life. Besides that old tires suck shat in the snow, particularly if they’re not good tires to begin with. tread depth is inconsequential. All tire recomendatiins say tires are no good after 6-7 years and while that number is somewhat arbitrary, they do blow out. A member here who only drives one of his Subarus a few thousand miles a year had two blow out within miles of each other on the interstate on his way to my house not long ago. Another friend totaled his Subaru last year with “new tires” - they were two year old cheap tires, terrible in the snow Anither

That could play into it. Bajas are distinctive in brat reminicence, two tone, two door, bed, yellow, and some with a turbo hood. tribeca is distinctive in nothing.

Nice, they rebuilt the struts? What kind of customers are they typically doing that for? Seems like a small niche market.

I’m frequently at the dealer for parts but would never buy fluids and filters there. I’ll pick up a trans filter only because I’m unfamiliar with alternatives on something rarely replaced. But now I can copy and paste GDs posted part number!

i wouldn't worry about it - it's HLA's or piston slap right? if HLA's i'd try changing the oil often, synthetic, maybe resealing the oil pump and tigthening the backing plate screws. or at least put that on your list when you do the timing belt again if you dont' want to now. but it doesn't take that long really to swap an oil pump. i'm unsure if the backing plate screws matter but it's so common for multiple ones to be loose i figure they should be tight.

awesome! The US squanders 20 billion hours a week of screen time....that should make us throw up....

if that's the EJ set up where the shroud bolts to the steering pump/hose - loosen and adjust the shroud/covers/bolts that go across the power steering and accessories. i think you can just loosen and adjust the alternator some to give that power steering pump bracket room to move so it's not pulling on the hose. or you might have a different power steering - i forget which years/models changed power steering pumps and hose set ups.