idosubaru

Sometimes it’s worth asking Subaru? While unlikely, out of warranty coverage isn’t unheard of. Good job keeping track so you can see the progression. Now you’ve got good (even if frustrating) data to look at. At least now you’re not guessing. Use heavier oil, you have data to compare against and see if it helps (it probably will). Though a mere reduction in usage probably isn’t your goal If you get a trade in offer I might buy it if you’re interested in a sale over ditching it at the dealer.

If its the replacement trans get it warrantied immediately. Junk yards have a warranty but they’re short. How many miles were on the replacement? Popping out of gear isn’t a rare high mileage issue id review the FSM and make sure there’s nothing odd about installing newer MTs, I’m not aware of anything. If it does end up being something else, see if you can keep the old transmission for a back up rather than scrap/core it. 1. They could have inadvertently installed the original trans. People have inadvertently pulled a part, set it down, then when reassembling it grabbed the same part, mistaking it for the replacement. Ive done it once and I’ve seen others do it. 2. Seems like mechanically, if its not the trans, it could only be shifter linkage/bushings? Though I’ve never heard of that causing popping out of gear. its only reverse that’s affected? That should rule out anything clutch related, which I don’t think would be gear specific.

Yes, yes, and yes. Those are both best to get from Subaru. Like Dave said - check the radiator coolant level every day if you can and see if you're loosing coolant. You want to find out if it's consuming coolant or not. Waiting for it to run hot, then check after it's already been hot and boiled over and spilled some out doens't tell you anything meaningful. You want to find out if it's loosing coolant under normal conditions, not overheating.

I’ve seen the white before. Don’t know what it is.

That’s annoying. Wait - do you have to remove the valve to pull the shims? It’s been a long time since I pulled an EJ25D apart, most rusted away around here so I avoid them now. On EZs it’s super easy. Pull shim, grind, recheck, grind, etc. No need to monkey with valves and springs and stuff. It’s super easy with the engine out of the car anyway.

One thing specific to this board, and I would do if I had time to remove them from my cars, is having cylinders matched to existing old NLA keys that are nearly impossible to find. I’ve got NLA OEM keys and multiple sets of lock cylinders I could match them too. They’d already be sent your way if I didn’t have to remove them from the car. Haha

Welcome back. It could help to post your old username as some people might hesitate to send locks and keys to a first time, new username.

88-91 XT nonturbos all have Knock sensors. are the NA and turbo block cases identical externally?

Grinding shims is way easier. Can you mic the clearance without the shim, mic the shim, and then calculate how much of the valve stem needs to come off? Probably too risky?

No. All EZ engines, some EJ turbos have shim or buckets, and EA82, ER27s, 90s EJ were non adjustable HLAs.

I really doubt steering bushings would be so bad they cause vibration while braking but no other symptoms. But they’re at least cheap and easy The replaced parts could be the issue. Poor quality parts or misstep in installation. Were all of those parts installed strictly because of the shaking, or were they previously replaced so you’re just assuming those can’t be problematic?

If struts, brakes and bearings are good then it has to be something between the hub and chassis. If you pay close attention can you almost sense that it’s on the left or right? That’ll give a good starting point. Check: ball joints tie rods rack bushings - I’ve seen these cause a delayed steering - you turn and there’s a very slight delay before the vehicle reacts to the steering wheel as the rack shifts and takes up the slack from the degarded bushings if you dont have that rack slop and you think bearings are good and you can’t diagnose it - it seems likely this will be fixed by replacing the control arm, ball joint, and tie rod on the suspect side. And hope your capture nuts aren’t broken ive seen broken capture nuts for the control arms cause vibration only while braking. Nasty freaking repair. Control arm bushings - partcularly if you have a 2005+ EJ

have multiples and then it doesn't matter. make the EJs sacrificial for the old gen. XT6's are my daily drivers and EJ's can take the rust beating in the winter. automatic. i don't want clutch maintenance, input shaft bearings, shifter bushings, synchros, single point of failure center diffs, less tow friendly, they're a dying breed and harder to find parts for....all that time is needed to replace headgaskets. lol. for me they have one redeeming practical quality which doesn't make up for those things.

Every EA82/ER27 ticking HLA's ('lifters') I've come across was fixed with #1 and #2 below, at a minimum do step 1 first it's really easy. 1. reseal the oil pump 2. replace the oil pump 3. reseal the cam carrier lower orings and replace the HLA's 4. live with it - you can drive them nearly indefinitely. On vehicles severely overheated I've seen and replaced seized HLA's.

If he’s not mechanically inclined he can negotiate a good deal on the 100,000 mile no deductible extended warranty. They can be purchased for a little over a grand and it’s cheap compared to the cost of a new car. The cost is negotiable so don’t over pay You can add the extended warranty at any time before 36,000 miles or something like that so you don’t have to buy it new. And you can, or at least you could if they didn’t change their rules, buy it at any dealer in the nation and some are more favorable than others.

No, the holes don’t need enlarged.

If the threads are bad the studs usually just pull out with the nut . The nut/thread are seized together and act like a bolt. Treat them like a bolt and carry on. I just pull them and reinstall them like they’re a bolt Use a 6 point socket only and if it’s really tight only loosen it a half a turn or two and move on to the next one. Come back and loosen another turn or so. Move on again. This prevents the stud and threads from overheating and stripping.

Can you get the FSM ?

Yes. Why not - remove boot, regrease, and install another boot?

Absolutely. Even with ripped boots I’ve put 100,000 miles on rears and 50,000 miles on fronts with ripped boots and no issues and no clicking. No big deal. If you have ripped boots and drive in sand, off-road, or aggressive stone/aggregate abrasives used for winter treatments - they’ll literally start clicking on day one. Been there done that multiple times. So yes - extrapolate that out to everything in between. It depends how badly the grease is compromised and how much actual abrasives are introduced which depends on the local roads and winter treatments.

1. Ask advance/autozone employee for an old gen part 2. It doesn’t fit Been there, you are wise to verify.

Ah, now I got the memo what happened. Welcome back, glad to see it.

Excellent. What happened, Password issues? Good to see you back.

Good grief. Good reminder if anyone gets a wild hair with nasty gas.

look at the cam lobes where they contact and look for the lowest point.