idosubaru

The picture is missing both drivers side idler pulleys. They are both smooth, not toothed like that sprocket pictured. I think I gave you the part numbers and links to pictures to what they look like in your other thread.

You're the bomb, big help I'll try that. Just checking resistance, sounds odd just checking wire resistance but I've done that with parts Never pulled the seats

If I want to check the purge control solenoid circuit for a dead short - how do o do that? Check Continuity and resistance from another access point/sensor? One side of the fuse that keeps blowing leads to the pin on the ECU labeled "Ignition Switch Signal". Along the way these components T-off of that line: Fuel pump relay Diode Purge control solenoid By pass air control Check connector Ignition coil So one (or more) of those items has a bad circuit? The other side of the fuse goes to the ignition switch.

Thanks guys. Can you help me unserstand this? Here's the aftermarket relay (I assume) - right above the coil. Maybe it simply failed - but if it's only for the starter it shouldn't effect the ECU and driving? Far right wire: positive battery terminal Far left wire: starter Middle right wire - it's spliced into some unidentified stock wire that snakes back under the windshield cowl. Where does that wire likely lead - ignition? I'll check continuity tomorrow. What I don't understand is why it only has three connections? It's been like this for 10,000 miles ive owned it. It also has aftermarket Hella lights installed Im going to see if I can disconnect those as a test.

Yep I'm going to study the FSM tonight. Dead short - so that means a power wire is directly shorted to ground somewhere? Downstream - what does that mean? Previous owner has an aftermarket starting relay or something installed - I know nothing about it. Probably a good chance that's the problem?

With the ignition relay removed the cabin engine ignition fuse doesn't blow. I don't understand what that means. If I disconnected the battery or fusible link it would also stop blowing the fuse but I see it's in series I just don't unserstand how that guarantees it's up or downstream. You're sure this rules out the ignition switch, because I don't fully get that? So we are back to grounds somewhere like you guys have stated. How does a ground cause over current? High resistance from a poor contact? Can I test resistance somehow between that fuse and ....somewhere else?

Copy - ECU grounds had continuity (I'll check that I got them all, I think I tested 6). Should I check resistance of them if that's even possible? The ECU power supply voltage is low or nonexistent. The engine fuse in the cabin fuse box blows at the exact same time the ignition relay clicks. I repeated that multiple times. That tiny screw on the back of the ignition was very loose. I tightened it but still same issues and the back of the ignition still seems to have some play. . I'm unsure how to test the ignition and haven't seen it in the FSM. I'll dig some more.

Crank angle sensor power voltage and it's supply pin at the ECU have only 0.5 volts. FSM says to replace ECU but that does nothing, I started another thread since I've narrowed it down some. Maybe I should have kept it here but seemed helpful to be more specific. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/164166-low-voltage-at-cas-and-ecu-pin-but-fsm-solution-doesnt-work/

Actually I installed it in an XT6 so scratch that, they're steering is completely different. it didn't seem related to that but they're so different I have no leg to stand on with that suspicion. It was an EA rack but I don't recall where it was from, I think I grabbed it off eBay - I'll probably try a different source if I do it again.

Narrowed down XT6 no spark condition: ECU supplies power to the CAS and it shows 0.5V at both ends (at CAS harness and at ECU pin for CAS power) FSM says it should be 7V or higher. It seems the ECU also has low power so I'm tracking that down now. Not sure why the FSM didn't specify to look there or I missed it. The check engine light doesn't work - although ECU pin shows 12 volts so I assume the bulb is blown? The ECU LED won't light up either so I'm confused but the FSM doesn't spell anything out for that LED.

I bought one in the past and it didn't seem to feel as good as a stock one. It drove and operated fine so it wasn't bad but it didn't feel as solid and crisp. I'm not usually discerning or picky with stuff like that. For that price and value of not repeating the repair it's certainly worth it. I installed three racks before getting one that didn't leak, that's a total waste of time but parts are harder to find here. Ive kept a couple to maybe attempt a rebuild but doubt I'll even do it. There's a legacy forum thread where someone rebuilt one.

Vehicle weight Final drive ratio Wheel size Your car has more weight in it It's not your car and you're pressing the gas harder

Green connectors changed nothing. You may be onto something, since I got it the car has had intermittently working automatic seat belts and I think another intermittent electrical issue I'm not remembering. Always random and comes and goes nearly daily. Although I've seen so many disconnected and broken grounds on perfectly fine engines I can't picture how or which ground could be problematic.

I'll find the FSM wiring diagram and see where that light gets power from. Right a fusible link doesn't just burn randomly. Goodnpint. You're right I did have one a little bit ago but the battery hold down had come loose, popped up and rubbed through the fusible link.

1989 XT6 - same set up at 1987+ fuel injected EA82s. Fuses under dash are all good. I'm still wondering why the ECU has no LED and the check engine light isn't on? That doesn't seem normal. I'll swap igniter and disty tomorrow but have a suspicion it won't matter if those lights suggest something else. I don't think the igniter or disty can cause the ECU LED and check engine light not to work?

No spark from coil (I swapped coil and ECU, timing belts good) The check engine light is never on and the ECU never blinks the LED. I should see the check engine light before starting the car right and the LED in the ECU? It would still spark if fuel supply was the issue right? Could it be the small contraption connected to the coil bracket? Is that an FET or igniter? How do I test that? Previous owner installed some kind of relay and its spliced into the wiring from the Igniter thing - I'm wondering if the issue is there but I'm not familiar with that or this custom wiring. This is an XT6 but it's identical to EA82 coil, ECU, ignition XT6 driving perfect and then all in one second the RPMS shot high, a very brief screech from the engine, engine quit running and I coasted to a stop. Blew one fusible link. Replaced fusible link and engine turns over great but no spark.

these things can be a beast to bleed, very common for these to be troublesome. not a bad idea to replace the slave cylinder and hose while it's apart if you have to go in their again for work. clutch fork is the pivot for the throw out bearing and slave cylinder to play see-saw with: https://www.google.com/search?q=outback+clutch+fork&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV8Iifk8jVAhVBeSYKHeN8AS8Q_AUIDCgD&biw=1366&bih=662

Great, glad it was simple. I think it's an unspoken rule not to flame anything regarding a Brat!

Yep. The under the seats ones are the ones I don't like. Limited space. That's not s good first time flare tool location unless you're really familiar and quick to learn tooling and sealing and processes.

Was it rusty? What's the other side look like?

All EA heads crack between the valve seats - that's actually normal and benign. But on a blown headgasket EA82T that often can mean the cracks go down into the exhaust ports. Can you tell if they're just surface cracks or actually extend down into the head far enough to be problematic? Otherwise yeah they're ancient and old. 30 years of hoses fittings and seals to leak or fail and that's assuming all the previous owners took good care of a cheap car that's not worth much for 30 years and the last one didn't just run it into the ground due to the failing gaskets. It's not impossible but choose carefully. There's a JDM EA82 on craigslist in Atlanta. Not sure if it was turbo or not.

Were they original OEM control arms that rusted through? Wow. I've been able to also tap them in place on the vehicle - axle pulled out - just tap the OD of the inner joint with a piece of 2x4 and it'll eventually seat in place. But with what you had happen it was better to pull and inspect!

Does anyone else find it weird that two different lines would rupture at the same time? That seems very odd and unlikely, but I guess if that's what failed it is what it is. I've done it and find flaring those lines can be troublesome, access matters, i've definitely tried some that were just hard to get to that I probably should have chosen differently. If it's tucked away somewhere and hard to access then find a more suitable access point or try to avoid flaring. You can even run all the line and then have a shop do any flares you need it is the rear EJ that fits the rear EA right? i have two sets i need to install some day, although I have no rust, so maybe it's pointless.

and make sure there's gas in the tank

valve spring compressors are a good thing to be prepared for. i made my own tool. run all thread through a socket and then cut a notch in the side of the socket to pull the keepers/retainers, then run the other side of the all thread through a cam sprocket or crank pulley as a "handle". lean/push on it , remove keepers and out comes the spring. probably not a method that's good for everyone, i've done entire engines with it, but I won't be compressing them by hand when i'm older. and why do i do that? because i don't do enough to warrant an expensive tool and i don't know of any lower end ones that work great. but i've done all EJ25's and older gen stuff, not much EJ22 valve spring stuff, maybe EJ22's are easier? the two valve spring compressors i own/use aren't very good for Subaru's, i can cobble them together and frustratingly maybe sort of make them work on most valves, but on some with little side clearance with the head casting they dont' really work at all or you'd spend about an hour on each valve getting dialed in just right. in general the ones you see when you walk in a store suck for Subarus. a thread started about which ones to use with little concrete or widely available tools referenced: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/124419-what-valve-spring-compressor-do-you-use/