
idosubaru
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Everything posted by idosubaru
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I'm simply looking at facts here - they've done you right so far, fixed everything for free, and now the person on the phone, who usually isn't a mechanic or technical, won't guarantee a free repair over the phone on a car they can't see with customer diagnosis. Given the facts, this looks like a great dealer. Take it to them, let the cards fall, then worry about it.
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Wow. How.m bad is it rolled? I can't see it but Why not just plop it back down in there, maybe massage it a little if needed and run it? It just needs to sit there. But yeah - install another head and carefully check the motor like he said.
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Ecu question
idosubaru replied to dp213's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
MAF/MAP - they're not on the engine - did you replace all those? Will these engines run by disconnecting the knock sensor? If so you could disconnect it or jump it with an appropriate resistor as a temporary test of the sensor and circuit. I'd still disconnect the fuel line when it's not running to make sure fuel is flowing. You can install engines and pumps all day long but if nothing is getting through they're all useless. -
Ecu question
idosubaru replied to dp213's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
As said rarely do ECUs fail. But they are cheap and easy. Car-part.com and buy the cheapest one in the US. EJ25s work as well. Use one from a manual transmission. But you can't use a 99 Legacy EJ25 or Outback as those are Phase I. So for EJ25s use a 99 Forester, or any 2000-2001 EJ25. And again I think you have to use a manual trans. The one you mentioned should work. There are two different sets of cam/crank triggers in 99+ vehicles and I *think* those triggers vary based on auto and manual. thoae two different triggers are the only variation for 99-2001s you need to worry about. And actually I'm older Subarus they could actually run automatics or manuals, they can *tell* what transmission it is by the pins. Install a manual ECU into an automatic no big deal. But I'm not sure you can do that with Phase II stuff. -
Thanks John I added a nibler to my cart, I've wanted one before. Good suggestion. I have a shed roof to replace I can cut too. As for the torch I was just wondering if I could torch out a section way bigger than just the panel - more like the rear 1/4 of the car. But that's pointless I should just rip a panel out, if any damage is worse than that I probably can't fix it.
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Anyone here do anything besides keep a parts car sitting on their property? Or am I in a minority since few rust belt folks drive these and others don't have as hard a time getting parts? I have two XT parts cars and would like to reduce to one or none by my house. Parking them in my fields means grown up, rodents and ugly. Cutting out rear quarters, glass, bumpers sounds time consuming but probably what I'll do. I'll probably just pay a window guy to come remove all the glass. How fast can I torch a rear quarter panel or front fender rails off? I could build a pole building maybe and make it big enough for one and my tractor and equipment. Anyone else?
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It depends what year 2.2 you have, you didn't tell us. In a 1999 Impreza RS you can only install a 1999-2001 2.2. if that's what you have then just bolt the EJ25 intake manifold onto the EJ22, it's the same bolt pattern. super easy. if you're using a 1998 or earlier 2.2 then that's not the case, this is not a desirable swap. the intake manifold bolt patterns are significantly different and not interchangeable. that's not the ideal swap and you'll be cobbling stuff to get it running and then it's not going to idle. to start - swap the 2.5 harness onto the 2.2 manifold so you can at least run it, then prop the idle open so it idles/runs somewhat because the idle control is a huge difference. then trouble shoot other issues from there.
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shifter fix for 4 speed-- DAMN PHOTOBUCKET
idosubaru replied to Bratastick's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
can someone post the pictures here and then a mod could just put a link to this thread in that one - or attach the pictures to that write up? maybe i'm wrong but i'm baffled why anyone thinks hosting 3rd party is better than just attaching the image locally particularly with a write up. -
listen to GD or Gloyale on this one. but i generally replace valve stem seals, and i'm admittedly uncertain on whether seals or guides are a concern during bent valves incidents. Subaru or Fel Pro are great fits for an EJ22, but let them chime in on other brands as I haven't had to pay attention for years since EJ22's have all rusted away around here.
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EA82 Oil Pump Issues (Seized Rotor)
idosubaru replied to bingerbangers's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
right on, i wasn't denying it. my question to him offline was "make sure you don't have an oil issue that caused this", but for me it's more a guess than you guys. thanks again GD and GLoyale. -
EA82 Oil Pump Issues (Seized Rotor)
idosubaru replied to bingerbangers's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Thanks. I'm just asking to learn, this is out of my experiences. scarred surface - could be smoothed down and avoid damaging the rotor, But I realize we're taking about the block so you can't just hack at that. -
What he said. Normal just carefully move it back. If you're reusing the tensioner compress it very slowly. Compress a little - go get a drink. Compress a little - make lunch. Compress a little - watch game of thrones. Wash rinse repeat. I'm exaggerating but follow the FSM directions and don't do it too fast. They do ocassonalky fail and excessive compression speed is specified as bad.
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Squeaky Pass Wheel - New Axle
idosubaru replied to Tony Cortado's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Grease - use Sil glyde. Shops I know use the purple permatex (not that green stuff, that's awfully low grade at least around here) and I'd run it bass on their recommendation. Sil Glyde is so good I don't bother trying anything else. I wouldn't call tight or loose calipers a diagnosis of anything, I'm not sure what makes one worse than another to turn but I've never seen it correlate with future issues so I'd hesitate to suggest that alone means anything. they usually seem tight to me to get in. I have the special tool and it often slips off due to being tight. Its not indicative of a specific issue though. If I had to guess maybe it's more of a function of the bore seal and fluid movement within a closed/semi-closed system. It's been a couple years but I feel like the ones I rebuild off the vehicle go in with less effort as they're not pushing against any fluids or system components. I've left torn boots for years without issues, may depend how much northeast salt it sees and gets in it. -
Timing belt pulleys, tensioners, etc.
idosubaru replied to 89XT6's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Can you edit the thread title still and add "XT6" for easier future reference/searching since these are different from EA timing gear? -
Timing belt pulleys, tensioners, etc.
idosubaru replied to 89XT6's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I've been driving XT6's for over 20 years so that's the reason I'm familiar with this. Aftermarket timing pulleys for EJ engines have a higher failure rate than OEM. Theres a good chance this holds true for older and more obscure parts as well. I doubt old parts with little demand command high design and materials and assembly sourcing costs from suppliers. Last I checked earlier this year you could get all the pulleys or bearings for them except one of those drivers side idlers was not available nor could the bearings be sourced. That's the only tricky one. A machine should be able to easily fit a replaceable bearing to it for probably less than an hour labor if you didn't want to wade through that yourself. I'm busy now but could organize this info a little more clearly when I'm not traveling and on my phone, if you're confused on how many pulleys/bearings there are. -
Great write up particularly that evaporator work, nice! I'll be looking this up if I come across a contaminated system in the future. Another option is replace with all used parts. pulling a vacuum isn't required on Subarus. The normal HVAC conceptual talk about moisture is true but far from reality. Ive charged gobs of Subarus now for a decade and 100,000+ miles without one issue, there's clearly some missing information. I also started a couple threads years ago which now have many successful follow ups doing the same thing. Zero issues. If I charged money to work on cars or lived down south I'd dig out my vacuum puller with 10 years of dust or buy a commercial one.
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Squeaky Pass Wheel - New Axle
idosubaru replied to Tony Cortado's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
fix the known brake issue first and check both sides for that same issue. Wheel bearings routinely fail without play or temp symptoms on Subarus. Really annoying to diagnose sometimes. Noise under toque/load is usually an inner axle joint issue but yours doesn't seem like this Nia the case being a "squeak" and always making the noise. -
EA82 Oil Pump Issues (Seized Rotor)
idosubaru replied to bingerbangers's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Are you guys assuming something caused this rather than the pump simply failing? I think that's what you're getting at which was my initial thought as well. If Someone recently worked on this vehicle - is there any damage they could have done to cause the pump to fail? When you were removing the pump were there any signs of someone mangling the sprocket, shaft nut, pump or improper sealant or bolt installation? -
EA82 Oil Pump Issues (Seized Rotor)
idosubaru replied to bingerbangers's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Out of curiosity how do you guys quantitatively know the block is trashed? could the oil pressure be tested after installing another pump - if it gives adequate oil flow or not would that confirm diagnosis? Or is the failure mode something else