idosubaru

Experienced Subaru people can do an entire head job and use a torque wrench for the headbolts only. I don't even use a torque wrench on crank pulley bolts, I get them as tight as my extension allows so I'm probably over 150. Waste of time to dig out my toque wrenches. Iron crank and bolt, you're not going to strip it unless you try or have no idea.

Make sure pin is removed and hole is free and clear. if you're rebooting reboot it insitu and leave the outer joint on the stubby shaft.

Doesn't matter, take your pick. I now often leave it off for reasons stated. I used to install it first then drop engine in. Not a big difference either way though many first timers would feel more comfortable doing TC bolts with it off.

I thought the same thing on those shiney metal heads. engine marks are only thing that matters. Belt marks are pointless. jury is still out on whether they solve more issues than they cause. Or reinstall the belt, rotate engine a few times forwards then same number backwards for warm fuzzies.

Curiosity here - what mileage and readings did you get? Wait for the more versed folks to chime in but some light resistance, it shouldn't be biting the tool with hard stops. but also depends on your access and tools. You can try the next thousandth inch up, if that fits you know it's not right, though I doubt 1 thousandth is even a big deal. They're going to tighten with age so you don't want them tighter than spec. A little looser will end up in Alec over time should they wear. If it's a rusty notched tool from grand dad or you're doing them insitu and bending the gauges to get them in place you'll feel resistance from those things as well. Best to get the tangential to the sliding surfaces and slide them in straight as possible.

Should be the same transmission and swap all day long except final drive ratio. You can install any final drive ratio trans you want if you also swap the rear diff to match. Post a picture if the input shaft differences you're experiencing. Shouldnt matter but tell us the vehicles to be clear: 98 legacy what - 2.5 or 2.2? 1996 what - SVX Impreza Legacy AWD FWD 1.8 2.2 2.5.,...?

If it was caused by the vehicle the temp gauge would have pegged. That pretty much rules out the entire cooling system. That's why I say it has to be the gauge or engines. Both of them registering 3/4 before similar failure sounds too similar. It's one thing to have two engines fail - but back to back nontraditional identical failures is too coincidental.

1. Make sure temp gauges are working properly. Maybe it's overheating worse but you're not seeing it? 2. What's the story of the EJ25 you bought? I'd try to avoid cheap questionable EJ25s. I have one that's never been overheated but too far. 3. The first one sounds like it was trashed before hand and is no surprise. Second could be bad luck, it would t be shocking at all, particularly depending how it was sourced. 4. These engines aren't easy to burp. Ale sure you're getting all the air out. These engines don't throw bearings until they've been significantly overheated - this doesn't sound like what's happening here , so the first run hot event is not causing this. 3/4 yo the gauge doesn't hurt these, particularly that fast. No way. Issue was pre-existing or temp gauge is wonky.

what vehicle/engine was that? what was failed in the pump.

there's a couple really good "will this suspension fit my car threads" - i would suggest looking at it for forester and impreza mix-and-matching. you could also find the spring rates, diameter, and length you want and order from Eibach. i just did that two days ago. it was pretty handy. i sifted the internet reading various experiences and dialed in the height (i wanted it more "lifted" than lowered" and spring rates - a little more than stock but not much due to rough roads locally.

Coolant level is good and consistent? +1 to the above, more generally speaking you have the symptoms of reduced cooling capacity. you have the cooling ability of a small lawn mower. idling and around town don't generate as much heat as highway so that's why it overheats on the highway. i've seen some that will do this worse during the day than cool nights. if coolant level is good, reduced cooling capacity on that engine is likely to be: A. radiator is clogged - this is common and by far the most likely cause, which is why everyone is saying it. B. something is restricting airflow through it - something is in front of the radiator or A/C or radiator fins are clogged. happens on tractors all the time.

1. the heads need resurfaced for flatness and finish. can do it yourself with vintage Italian marble like this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/ 2. Subaru or Fel Pro head gaskets only 3. Subaru intake manifold gaskets - others are thin flimsy cardboard 4. The cracks are normal, every EA/ER head I've ever seen except maybe one or so has them. If they're too deep they can breech coolant/exhaust passages. This happens more often on turbo engines than non-turbo. Heads can be pressure tested, not sure how to test them at home but you can look into the exhaust ports for signs of cracking there.

aftermarket axles suck - i wouldn't replace it. reboot it. buy a used one and run it while you reboot your old one. www.car-part.com has $15 axles all over the place. you can use 00-04 axles on earlier legacys, just knock the tone ring off, it taps right off, though some people leave them in place. they're better boots and newer axles as well, so i used to do it all the time before all the 90's stuff rusted away.. just don't try to remove the ball joint pinch bolt. they shear off all the time out here. and even if it's removed, getting the ball joint out of the knuckle can be difficult - the worst ones are not removable by any tool made in this galaxy, though you're unlikely to see one that bad.

hahahahahahaha. that's awesome....now, i'm sure it wasn't at the time.

there's no special procedure for ABS, makes no difference, though maybe it can take longer. your MC is fine. Subaru MC failure is rare, replacing one only to have the same symptoms is common. when they have air introduced into them they can take forever to bleed, i've definitely gone through like 3 huge bottles of fluid to bleed a Subaru on some ocassions. i'm not sure what makes one easy and one take forever. why yours would have any air in it at all, i have no idea, maybe you do have another issue.

+1, lots of good feedback here already. the rears are easy, I just zipped the bolts off of rear struts two days ago without compressors, nothing happens as they're not under much tension with the weaker rear springs. i've been using cheap $12 or something compressors off amazon for years. they're fine, having air tools makes it a quick even if i have to reset them once or twice. they would suck with hand tools. top bolt alignment is critical. once it's disassembled there's no way to get your strut mount bolt alignment back. mark it positively well such that you won't loose it during the work.

There's a user here from Columbus, I forget his name but he seems well acquainted with Subaru's and i feel like he may be a mechanic or may know some around the area. Sometimes "Shady shop" and "inexperienced with Subaru's" can look like the same thing. Give shops a clear idea what you want and being informed can help you work with shops and areas that aren't swimming in Subaru's. forums like this can help. there's probably not an issue or concern you have that can't be addressed right here easily. you just have to be capable of reading, sifting, and following through.

Ive used my 2" rack on 1 1/4" hitch with adapter. The adapter slides to the first hole and you're stuck with the entire rack sticking way out. It works but I now have all 2" hitches. But those aren't available for every vehicle. You could give a shop your hitch and buy 2" hitch square channel (its cheap) and they can weld the 2" channel in place of the 1 1/4". I have some of that channel in my garage just for that purpose.

Yep drums are just annoying to work on but have good tools and make mental notes or take pictures of spring and part alignment and they're not hard. Rockauto has (had?) real cheap drum brake kit parts for that car. I had an extra set I just recently through in the trash.

Picture? Is it the trans case or an insert? I'd clean it and squish some right stuff down the crack. I've done it on EJ rear cam cap plugs without issues.

Glad you got it taken care of and found a competent shop. those trans often last the life of the vechile so good chance you're done with trans issues on that car.

6 speed swaps have been done - should be able to google it. Subaru almost never is a proper source for parts interchanges and definitely not for swaps. They're not allowed to do such things so you're asking people that have no practice or motivation to do so. And if you're just stopping in or calling, the service staff that answers the phone usually have no mechanical experience at all - you're asking a secretary for eye surgery technical recommendations. Just google six speed swaps and scan for pertinent info, not guesses and idle banter which are hallmarks of Internet forums. You should clarify the topic - it sounds like you're thinking differently than others. everyone here is giving you the standard and easy repair to install a 4EAT which is essentially the same transmission the car came with and would breeze through CA smog. But you seem bent on installing a different transmission than they're recommending. Why? What are you after? That should get folks on the same page. Warranty is likely not valid. 1. It wouldnt apply to other vehicles. 2. It only applies if installed by trained mechanics and shop. Technically warranties don't apply to DIY folks. They'll warranty it anyway sometimes but unlikely if the car was wrecked, totaled, swapped and shipped across country to a second buyer who installed it themselves. Sure ask but it's highly unlikely.

If you do want to trade in - let me know and I can come buy it from you for $500-$1000 more than what a dealer offers.

Have the headgaskets checked carefully now. That specific engines (not all engines) starts with a light seeping before it turns into a symptomatic leak. Post pictures here if you want and we'll tell you. You need to check the lower seam where the head meets the engine block from front to back on both sides. It's either dry or wet. If it's just a little wet it won't be a problem for some time so you've got lots of time to plan and prepare your next move. They can be driven -0's of thousands of miles before they worsen. If it's dry you know you can keep it with relatively little concern. That engine isn't typically subject to the random failures that are unpredictable which is true of some EJ25s, just not that one.

Wow what a mess. Those are not common issues. Id replace/rebuild your hoses as well after all this mess. Leaving an oily crimp hose seems almost silly.