idosubaru

Evap and Oxygen sensor codes - repair them and you're done? Yours is a 1997, not a 1996 and it involves nominal codes, not readiness monitors, so it's not exactly what you're dealing with is it?

Yes. If it's noncompliant with emissions then you have to tell the emissions guy that 1996 legacy's are exempt from the readiness monitors. It confuses some emissions people but it's well documented and part of their protocol they just don't see them often enough to remember or keep up with staffing turn over.

I wouldn't keep that belt for any longer than absoultely necessary. I installed a new timing kit on a friends Subaru. maybe a year and not that many miles, it developed a massive crank seal leak and got plenty of oil on the belt. I resealed it and being a brand new belt that looked perfectly fine I wiped it down and didn't think much about reinstalling it. Not only did it break - but it was really shortly aferwards - like 1-3 months. It tore in half and compeltely separated. After seeing that - I'm little obsessed about the timing belt touching even a spec of fluid, eventhough I know it's not logical! I'd replace it immediately. This was a lesser quality EA82 belt in a 1993 loyale, but I still wouldn't even think about it on an interference engine. Belts are so easy to replace and cheap. Can swap a new belt only in 45 minutes on that car....it was just a part so none of the timing cover bolts should be rusty/problematic.

awesome. Easy fixes are always a good thing!

I've disconnected the dropping (shift?) resistor in my cars for firmer 2-3 or 3-4 shifts.

EJ25 short block with EJ22 heads and delta cams would be cake, no ECU or wiring needed but EJ25D blocks have head gasket related issues. 01-04 EZ30 4EAT and convert the MPT to VTD if possible. VDC H6's have VTD. Avoid 99 4eat as they have a delayed shifting into gear issue. Not a big deal I'm fixing one right now but not what I'd want to install into a project car either. www.car-part.com what final drive ratio/gearing would be best for his goals?

Thanks got it!

Replacement is simple for sure. That's a great fit for simplicity and availability and clean install and finish. And if everything is compromised - clips, pins, rust...great fit No doubt. Do the aftermarkets come with new clips? But The OEM units routinely last the life of the vehicle if well maintained. It's pretty easy to maintain them and if they do fail the rebuild kits are even cheaper and that's easy as well. but that's a rare failure on Subarus. Some folks have had aftermarket calipers rust up within a few years. Presumably the most likely people to replace calipers are those in rust prone areas. Some folks may want to avoid possibiy cheaper metal castings that may rust. If the metal is cheaper tolerances and piston seals may not be as tight as OEM either. Probably low faikure but usually no compelling reason for me. I would rebuild or replace with used Subaru calipers (nonrusty ones from the west or south) before aftermarkets. But I agree it is much mich simpler to just buy the whole thing and have a nice clean install all the way around. Cheap and a great deal.

Yeah you're on it, the belt marks are pointless, just a needless aid. The timing marks on the crank and cam pulleys have to be spot on. Make sure timing tensioner isn't loose and deflecting while under load. Ive seen it before but they've always started and ran and deflect while starting or accelerating. cant imagine this being the case here but easy check Can you do a leak down test? I've done it before but have never diagnosed anything adding oil in the cylinder. Being horizontal the oil is going to lay in the bottom of the cylinder and only a small percentage of the rings - does that matter? it would be good to replace the filter. But it would also be good to replace other things as well. He said he has fuel and fuel filter can't cause compression loss. Subarus rarely have fuel filter issues so check the post filter flow and call it good. the pumps have socks (filters). If fuel filters commonly were plugged that amount of debris would have to make it past those socks first to get to the fuel filter. so those fuel pump socks would clog too - presumably first if there's an outlier environmental factor causing abnormal particulate build up in the tank. but they rarely do, I've never seen a clogged fuel filter and many diagnoses are dubious, so it's highly unlikely except for rusty fuel tanks which doesn't seem to be the case here.

are there thin "chains"? i feel like i've seen some thinner styles that aren't much thicker than steel wire rather than big chain link style? those might not be much different than studs sticking up in terms of clearance?

Never mind - I see the ones in the parts store have the bracket on them as well...

Heater core. Some 2006's have a recall for too much Chlorine in the coolant, stop in Subaru and see if there's any informaiton on that recall, a TSB, extended warranty, etc....after 10 years I can't imagine there being any warranty but it's worth an ask. You could try flushing but efficacy of that, while variable, is probably limited.

You obviously know what you're doing so pardon the simplicity here but it's just trickier using a keyboard than in person or seeing the vehicle. I'm going to guess that P0125 is really a P0325 knock sensor code - can you verify that code for us? All 4 cylinders having the same low value suggests it has to be something affecting the entire engine - the only thing I can think of right now are air supply, timing, and RPM's: A weak battery or slowly turning over will reduce compression, it is directly related to RPM's - though I'd suspect you would recognize that? Pull the intake manifold and prop the throttle plate open to make sure it's getting sufficient air flow or just check the air hose and make sure no rodents built a nest in there. Triple check that timing and make sure you're looking at the proper timing marks, that's a common mistae.

There are no adjustments, it's either working properly or it is not. There is maintenance like transmission fluid and tires that affect 4WD components, though not typically in the direction you're describing unless your current situation is an artifact of past attempts to fix symptoms....but that sentence wont' make any sense for someone not familiar with this car so maybe some questions will help: 1. is it FWD or AWD? FWD was available until 1996 and they can be swapped (i've done it) 2. check that the rear driveshaft is installed from the transmission all the way back to the rear differential. people will remove the driveshaft on a failed (they fail to "locked") VLSD trans which makes it run like a FWD vehicle. 3. yes tires could do it - but when are they chirping? it's fairly flat in houston so i'd suspect you'd have to really be mashing the pedal and launch, usually any FWD can chirp when turning on a steep grade from a stop...but that's not common in houston. 4. You'd probably already mention this if this was the case but do you feel any "slowing down" like your rear brakes are dragging? Symptoms might be poor gas mileage, smelling the brakes or - do you feel any "dragging" when you coast?

Get that one from John. Swapping front diffs is a beast of a job due to backlash settings (requiring dial guages) and setting bearing preload. Gloyale is the only member here I know of that's done it or talked about it and he does this everyday and is well versed in Subarus and transmission guts. If you're going to do it best to swap the entire front behousing and retain all the same clearances precisely. Then you can swap without doing any backlash or preload adjustments.

I was totally thinking this was older generation. Indeed EJ would be more annoying. Goodness - the new VLSD unit is $700 and discountinued? wow.

I forget which one I got but it was one of the smaller HF ones and it's been fine. Keep in mind it just has to slide or roll a vehicle. You and I can easily push a car, but could never in a billion years push a 2,000 pound rock.

Nice find. Good job, that's good to know they look different so someone doesn't think it's the wrong part. No obvious mount issues when the old one was removed?

Odd how that works, knock sensors were like that a few years ago, not quite as expesive but pricey nearly everywhere but ebay and a few less common online suppliers that had them for like $8 or something crazy. I've installed those and others have as well, I've never had issues with them.

Proably easier/cheaper to do an H6 swap and get 220-240 hp from an EG33 or EZ30. Buy engine, pay someone $400 to cut and label the wiring for you and then install it. Turbo's can't run off your existing ECU so they require wiring and custom work - it requires resources that arent' likely to happen. It all depends how much you're wiling to spend or capable of, we don't know what those parameters are. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f7/t72808-aftermarket-forced-induction-thread-everything-you-need-know.html http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1190530 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1613234 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1747178 It's best to enjoy the car for what it is rather than what it is not unless you're a highly capable, resourced, and motivated person (which is a very small percentage of people that ask this question).

It would remove the front to rear binding - so the driveshaft and transmission wouldn't see any issues. The binding would happen around turns and be relegated side to side in the rear - so the outer joints, inner joints, stubby shaft, ring and pinion. Just visualize a straight line across your axle, diff, axle and that's what will be binding - that entire rear driveline - the weak points would be the connecting joints i mentioned. So they would be cheap, easy to repair, and not leave you stranded like a transmission or ujoint possibly could. Just pop the pins out of the axle(s) and go on your way. Rear tires may wear faster due to the same thing. And I'm just guessing here but side to side binding is "easier" on the driveline than front to rear - less weight/HP from the engine and the binding may be lighter and not as bad as traditional binding. I'm thinking about pulling wagons and trailers (large toys, yard equipments) and such with solid axles - they're light and easily translate across surfaces compared to something driven/heavier/powered.

It's 100% the tires. ABS sucks terribly with bad tires, common issue and complaint. Just pull the abs fuse for now or when you have issues. With proper tires you should never need to kill it. insurance implications are highly unlikely. Insurance companies could absolve themselves from many claims based on tires, lifts, tampering, modifications, improperly sized tires, prior damage and many other reasons but thats not protocol or how the industry is currently operating nominally. There's a variety of reasons but without writing a book just look at friends and boards and thousands of people and accidents and you'll see it's not normal. A story like that would be anecdotal rather than the norm. Adding screws to the tires sounds like intentionally trying to cause flat tires for others or yourself.

transmission fluid is added through the dipstick in the engine bay. AT transmission is under master cylinder on drivers side, pull dipstick and add fluid. MT is on passengers side. need a funnel or get creative or see what happens trying to dump that bottle down there.

Right! Edit - I meant "with one". that engine probably needs that sensor to deliver optimal fuel mileage. "elite...." is a generated title by the board so don't assume much from it.

Right! Edit - I meant "with one". that engine probably needs that sensor to deliver optimal fuel mileage. "elite...." is a randomly generated title by the board so don't assume much from it.