idosubaru

I routinely inspect the ends/external condition during other maintenance = you can see them crack, dry rot, ends will swell a little and not look "tight", etc -but I wouldn't even think about replacing OEM Subaru hoses before 150,000 miles or 10 years if it's a one/few owner vehicle with excellent history, maintenance records, never taken apart before, never overheated, in an average daily driver. You're in a hot environment, but hoses temps might not really reflect that since they're pushing 150+ degree coolant I'm in the salt belt and the lower hoses deteriorate quicker - but even still i haven't seen them failing with any kind of regularity, if at all on an OEM installed, high mileage Subaru Aftermarket hoses, unknown vehicles, i'd be far less comfortable leaving, i'd replace them with Subaru hoses. He touts Gates so they're probably good but I feel like even they can be lower quality than Subaru - but that's just a hunch, i've avoided them for 10 years now, so I could be off base Subaru hoses are very robust and rarely fail unexpectedly. i've got 15 years and 254,000 miles on my 2002 OBW H6 and I haven't replaced any hoses yet except the one short elbow on the oil cooler but that was only PM while replacing the oil cooler gasket. and i'm not surprised or think i'm amazing at maintaining hose - they're just that good. I'm not too worried about the hoses even at a quarter million miles. I think hose issues and deterioration are likely a result of one or more of the following: 1. rust from rusty hose clamps 2. prior engine work/removal/reinstall - any time they're disturbed increases risk of compromise/stress 3. sitting for extended periods of time (will vary wildly based on how/where it was sitting - over grass/moisture, dry, exposed, covered, shaded, garaged). 4. preventatively replaced hoses - i've seen lots of leaks/issues with replaced hoses. lower quality hoses, lower quality clamps, not tightened properly, etc. 5. a poorly maintained car - overheated, getting oil or fluids on them, sitting on the ground for weeks while the dog licks and chews it, mice crawl through it, while a car is worked on, etc.

Unless you know that this particular dealer is exceptional. I just wonder if they see much stuff like this.

I would avoid the dealer like the plague. I'd bet money they don't figure it out of get it right the first shot. An auto collision shop maybe? Ask around for someone really good - if think they're far more experts atvalignment and suspension and noises than a dealer.

I would go with the machine shop. GD has s thread on here about resurfacing them yourself and getting the right RA. It's super easy, that's what I do. Check it out.

2002 H6 VDC - runs and drives - been one of our main daily drivers for many years. When first started it will surge and hunt for a gear like once or twice. Only when first started for about 10 seconds or less. After that it drives fine, no issues. Today it almost stalled at a redlight - first time it's ever had much of a symptom beyond the first 10 seconds. But no surging/hunting i don't think. As far as I know all these codes came about at the same time recently: P0335 - crank sensor. There are 4 transmission codes, 3 incorrect gear ratio codes and torque converter clutch circuit performance. P0741, P0732, P0733, P0734 I'm thinking one of those is causing the rest or there's damage to a wiring harness somewhere: A google search finds no instances of a crank sensor causing transmissions codes on Subaru - but seems like it could be possible - does the TCM see the crank sensor? I repaired one wiring harness under the passengers side carpeting due to rodent damage.....maybe there's more somewhere else (we seem to get a lot of rodents in the car now that we have 3 kids and crumbs everywhere) Is there an easy way to check continuity of those P07xx codes?

Compression or leak down test would verify valve damage.

You could also have bent valves from the timing failure. 1996 is noninterference and 1997 is interference. Verify production date on metal stamp 96 & 97 are plug and play interchangeable. If the engine was ever replaced or it's a bleed over 97 engine you could have an interference engine in a 1996.

Crank pulley can be tightened real tight and it'll never come off, no key needed for the pulley.

Subaru injector and fuel system failure is very rare, very unlikely.

There are two marks on the crank sprocket, it's easy to use the wrong one and think for certain you're using the right one since you're using "a mark" that looks right. Did you use the dot or arrow? You can google pictures of them. Read your OBDII codes - what codes does it give you?

I'm betting the hill holder locked up. Or: Axle if attached is freewheeling and could catch. Axle not attached means wheel bearings could be rusty. Rotors can rust from sitting and have high and low spots that grab.

I'd guess they're on Amazon or eBay

Get it from Subaru Or a used one - I just loaded a 99 EJ22 for scrap that's headed out tomorrow. If you tighten it really good you don't need a key for the crank pulley. It'll never back off if you give it some grunt. Iron crank so those threads won't strip like the rest of the aluminum long block.

I've rebuilt a couple of those, they're usually easy - straight forward and just swap parts that tripped (bags, seats, and pre tensioner belts if equipped. I've never had to replace sensors, they can be presumably multiple use items. That's a lot of codes. You are right to clear them and check again. The car runs and drives and isn't in pieces? VDC models have side impact seat bags and seat belt pretensioners, does yours? Which airbags were deployed? If you get tons of codes and don't know what bags went off, Id be tempted to check all applicable bags for continuity and FSM values (resistance?) from the controller connector. Controller is under center console ashtray area. Under the little tray piece that VDC models have. Oddly it's bolted down with security TORX bits, the only place Subaru used those. You can use a used controller, no fancy programming or anything. I may have parts if you need it.

With one exceptional all front EJ axles from 90-99 are interchangeable. There's an odd axle in 1993, pretty sure it's the 93 FWD Impreza. It just has an odd spline count on the transmission side. So you can count the transmission side splines to check.

Should be able to search for front diff or any of those common brands to find past threads.

I'd call the diff companies and ask, they do this every day. Look up other front diff threads, we've talked about this in depth before. The front diff chunks are widely interchangeable, legacy, outback, forester, Impreza, svx, xt for like 10 or 15 years or don eying

I'd call the diff companies and ask, they do this every day. Look up other front diff threads, we've talked about this in depth before. The front diff chunks are widely interchangeable, legacy, outback, forester, Impreza, svx, xt for like 10 or 15 years or don eying

How about swapping entire assembly onto vehicle so you don't need to remove it? If it's rusted they can be a beast. A press is best. if it's really bad a BFH won't work. It'll mushroom the threads and ruin the axle. The threads will literally compress to a tighter pitch and no longer work...not without inordinate time filing grinding the mushroom off for the axle to fit through the hub and repairing the threads. I've had pullers shatter the rotor and break the arms of the pullers removing these before. Hopefully yours will come out easier than those but one out of every so many needs a press or torch.

Hard to say sight unseen. But yes if an internal leak pukes into the cylinder it can cause a no start and worse. Is this an EJ25

I never get alignments after struts. Mark front camber bolt and realign to same position, no big deal. I have no idea how my times I've done it The meager height difference is benign and the bolts mentioned already are the only alignment settings you touch. That said it makes sense to save your tires and be sure. Just keep driving the current struts if they're warn and not failed. I'd get a complete timing kit in there first

yes - those are model/year based distinctions - rather than "get them either way" in the sense that they're random. like chux said EZ30 3 port heads are 2005+. before that they're all single port, which i mentioned because the OP seemed interested in H6's with different head/exhaust port counts. 1995 and earlier EJ22 is dual port 1996+ EJ22 is single port.

+1. seriously it's not hard. you'd have to *try* to damage anything. they easily pull out by hand if you have the access/mobility/strength - so it takes very little effort with a pry bar. there's a post every now and again where someone accidentaly pulled it out while working on something else even when they weren't trying. seating them is trickier than getting them out. they tap right in with a 2x4 but who wants to go tap-tap-tapping on their brand new axle boot!?

yes - transmission lines come out of there and head up front to cooler. if the lines are original, brittle, and cracking, might want to entertain replacing or at least cutting an inch off and getting fresh hose on there.

what he said. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-7-SUBARU-H6-ER27-SOHC-XT-6-COUPE-RIGHT-SIDE-CYLINDER-HEAD-1988-1991-/271941412418 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fel-Pro-60955-Exhaust-Pipe-Flange-Gasket-/351633030537?fits=Make%3ASubaru%7CSubmodel%3AXT6&hash=item51def63d89:m:m67MquWABdt-S-g9nfn7uHw&vxp=mtr and the EZ30 H6's have one port: http://www.submariner.org/thepno95/Pictures/Subaru/EZ30%20install/EZ30%20-%20oil%20cooler.jpg