idosubaru

won't a 1999 Outback resonator fit a 1999 Legacy? the following listing says it fits the outback but not the legacy - they sure look the same, maybe the attach point/hanger is slightly different but i don't care about that: http://www.amazon.com/Walker-55180-Resonator-Assembly/dp/B000C93ESO/ref=sr_1_34?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1431707891&vehicle=1999-13-64------------1-0&sr=1-34&ymm=1999%3Asubaru%3Alegacy&keywords=exhaust

are they not available? http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-NEW-M11-X-1-25-X-16-5mm-Helicoil-Thread-Inserts-/300664237144?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

In decent shape they're cheap, easy to maintain and make a lot of reliable inexpensive miles. they're great usable vehicles. Engine - valve train, pistons are identical to EA82's. Regrease the timing pulleys - they're in terrible shape. Reseal the oil pump, replace cam seals and cam orings. Timing kits with new pulleys are $400. You can regrease them with a needle fitting on a grease gun rather than replace them. Do that and replace the water pump, cap, rotor, wires, plugs and any nasty hoses and you've got a reliable vehicle. The coolant temperature sensors fail the most of all the sensors, I sometimes just fix this right away on a daily driver because it's easy to do - the connectors get green crusties and corrode and fail. You can replace the connector (there's a generic fuel injector connector that's the same) or solder the wires directly to the water temperature sensor. The idle air conrollers often get flaky and stick from crud build up inside of them. Remove from car and spray out with cleaner - really easy to do. The alternator plugs are usually brittle by now. 4WD versions have air suspension. best to just convert them immediately and avoid the air suspension. i prefer it and like how it drives and they can last a long time - but there's like 20 orings that need replaced to be reliable and they're problematic to trouble shoot. by this age and season of life most are not in great shape. impreza/legacy stuff works up front, EA82 rear to convert to conventional struts. Electronic Power Steering - no power steering pump on the engine - it's electric. Again - the'yre reliable if maintained well. The electric motor usually needs brushes and the internals cleaned. $20 for brushes and easy to do. The system is supposed to take a specific XT6 power steering system fluid, but Subaru doesn't carry it any more. You can still find some around or just swap to another type of fluid. That's most of the major XT6-specific stuff - join us over at subaruxt.com for parts and such.

2001-2005 US engines are not EJ25D 2.5 (DOHC) as you have listed. i assume that's a typo? if we're going to get technical we need good info. if you're talking about 2001-2005 EJ25's - then no those are not easily interchanged into a 1999 Legacy GT. the intake manifolds do not interchange, they have a different bolt pattern. You can use the short block only from 2001-2005. bolt heads, intake manifold, exhaust to the 2001-2005 short block. the transmission i'm unsure of - those are wonky in 99+ vehicles regarding interchanging - i'd start by google searchign it.

ah - i'm unsure of that 99 deal. this thread suggests they're the same but they're not talking about 99's specifically.....but fairtax and bratman know their junk, maybe they'll see this.

what check engine light codes are you getting? yes - a 1996-1998 EJ22 ECU will work, but not a 1999 EJ22. interesting read up there about cylinder 1 signal and IACV, crazy

ha ha, right on. really you did that on purpose? one could also fill from the breather hole....but none of those ways of filling would be approaches from a quick lube place.

+1 it can't really be overfilled, the fill plug is where you add fluid. if you "overfill", it would just come out while you're filling.

1. what vehicle? is it the 99 forester mentioned in your sig? 2. are the fans coming on when it's running hot? 3. was the coolant low when it started overheating? 4. any leaks? 5. have the headgaskets ever been replaced? also check the radiator neck and make sure the sealing surface where the radiator cap seals against is smooth and not damaged.

06 has the fancy valve stuffs right - so you need an engine, or those heads, for the valve actuators, etc to play nice or do some research to work around that. a rebuild is nice - but a lot of work and machine shop expenses to mic things, check things, plastiguage the bearings for oversized or not, and disassembly/assembly. few people rebuild EJ blocks, but of course it can be done.

Reuse yours - they'll work fine - just like bolts which your new ones will turn into in 9 months again anyway! You can buy them at auto parts stores, mine carries them in stock - but don't try and search by Subarus - they'll say they don't carry them. Just buy an M10 x 1.25 thread metric stud. they will not list them for Subarus and the computer will tell you they don't fit. so you can't ask - you just have to find them and buy them. take an original one with you to match up. There is a small portion of the stud that is not threaded - so there's a short threaded side and a long threaded side. If you install the "short" side threads into the block first - then that unthreaded portion lines up with the gasket/flange and you're golden. here they are at autozone - i never shop at autozone so I'm assuming these are the same: http://www.autozone.com/gaskets-and-miscellaneous-fasteners/double-ended-stud/dorman-autograde-m10-1-25-x-21-mm-and-m10-1-25-x-13-mm-double-ended-stud/223845_0_0/ see how the unthreaded portion isn't in the middle so there's a short and long threaded side? Install the long threaded side OUT - so it gives you all the threads you need to install the nut.

If you've got a really bad one, and it sounds like you do - none of the tricks or tools are going to work..well not in the intended way (see below). in the rust belt 1 out of every couple dozen are atrocious - they are rusted together and will not separate with any conventional tool/process. Since it's only 1 out of a every couple dozen - a lot of people even in the rust belt that work on their own 1 to 10 Subarus never see it so that's why you see lots of recommendations that you know aren't going to work - they probably aren't if you've got a beast on your hands. you have two options on these really bad 1-in-a-couple-dozen beasts: 1. Manually remove the ball joint: A. break the ball joint into pieces - you'll get the stud and ball to come out of the ball joint socket. *** If you continue to spend hours trying everyones suggested tricks and tools - step A will begin to happen anyway - you'll pull the ball right out of the ball joint itself and it'll just start to disintegrate piecemeal. you might as well save yourself a few hours, trips, tools, purchases, and go for it if you think it's one of these beasts you're dealing with. Go directly at it with chisel, dremels, drills, whatever you got that can break it to bits and get the stud and ball out of there - leaving the socket portion of the ball joint only still in the knuckle. B. with the stud and ball gone - the socket portion of the ball joint will be rust welded into the knuckle socket. they'll literally be hard to tell where one begins and one ends, they're just rusted all together. C. start drilling it out into pieces and it'll eventually flake off with small chisels/stout screwdrivers and then you can start peeling it back with said screw drivers/chisels. D. now jump up and down and repeat after me "WHAT'S MY NAME, COME ON BEAST, YOU GOT NOTHING ON ME YOU FREAKING !)*$%()*$!!!!!!!!" while dancing around a fire that you throw the remnants of the ball joint into. 2. Buy a used knuckle - this saves considerable time and a grueling process. www.car-part.com - everywhere ships now so buy one from the west and south where everything comes apart easy and all these tricks you read about online work every time. ebay routinely has them as well

if you can assess the engine block is in reasonable shape - replace the heads with two used heads.

nice pics! could you buy the parts you need rather than a complete head set? first few engines i did i bought head sets...then i just started buying what i needed and it's been much simpler and cheaper and i've never kicked myself "ah wish i would have gotten..." i've had aftermarket EA/ER crank seals be terrible fits and leak soon after installation. i'd prefer Subaru on older EA/ER seals.

not a common failure - if you want to repair it yourself and avoid the seal replacement, get a used differential and swap it out. i have one for your vehicle: $35 + shipping the front nut is a beast. be sure to mark it if it sets the bearing preload or ring and pinion back lash at all - which i think it does: mark it's exact location and try to install it in the exact location - same number of turns and same location - make a mark with a grease pen. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122731-rear-differential-seal-leak/ you can also find the factory service manuals online for free - any 1995 - 1999 FSM for any Subaru will be identical procedure for that part and the torque for the nut.

1. make sure it's not overcharged 2. if it leaked out in a day - then it's presumably a sizable leak that should show signs of leakage - are you seeing any leakage anywhere? it would be nice to verify that. 3. if the hoses are dry as a bone then they probably aren't the culprit 4. if the vehicle was ever in an accident the front condenser is prone to having been punctured/bent/damaged - inspect it and the surrounding area thoroughly. 5. if the hoses and condensor seem to check out - replace the orings and shcrader valves. the orings on the a/c compressor fail at a high rate, the rest at a low rate. i presume due to vibrations, greater heat cycling due to proximity of engine and dynamics of being on the compressor - an overall more stressful enviornment. *** the orings on all older Subarus are by now dried and hard as a rock instead of pliable like a rubber oring should be. very common issue. schrader valves have a seal at the base, good idea to replace if you can. then yes - simply add two cans and you should be good to go.

generally not a big deal. but they can vary as to how bad they are and cause a large decrease in power if bad enough. but that's not the norm. the knock sensors are like $10 on ebay, require removing one 12mm bolt, and takes about 15 minutes. easy peasy to replace.

+1 - just make it sit there, not a big deal. it's about as benign as you can get - line up one bolt, zip tie it, etc - it's a static part that's not going anywhere. there's no need to swap wiring harnesses - the EJ22 is plug and play. you can simply go back to the EJ22 wiring harness? that's the 100% solution without rewiring, repinning, or splicing in the correct connector.

get the 95 engine if it's a good one and good deal. there's no reason OBDII should be any more complicated....unless it's just more wiring. they're otherwise simple and easy to swap and have nothing singifciant electronically to worry about. another option is use a 1990-1994 intake manifold on a 1995 EJ22 - so then your 1995 EJ22 is running off an OBD I 1990-1994 EJ22. so youre 1995 is OBD I then.

Your poor soul, you work for rick! just kidding, i occasionally talk to him! not counting a rebuild/wrecked Subaru, i've never replaced a receiver/drier even on ancient 80's and early 90's stuff, and i've never had a issue. all of my daily drivers with 180k, 190, 200k, 230k had open A/C systems like years and 100,000 miles ago and are all trucking just fine with never an A/C issue - and i have no idea how many others i've worked on. i've not replaced anything but orings and refrigerant. Rick knows his stuff and has the liability of multiple staff and customers, and customer "diagnosis", and a revolving door of them at that.

Quit playing in the toystore and look for a Forester with a blown engine and install a CCR engine with an actual big boy warranty - 36,000 mile/3 year. $2,000 forester/outback + $4,000 rebuilt CCR engine install - and you've got a non-wrecked/non-salvage/real warranty vehicle for the same asking price. 1. high priced, high mileage, salvage title, no warranty - that's a lot of strikes 2. warranty - they give 25% of a Subaru warranty and 8% of an engine rebuilder warranty * Subaru gives 12 months/12,000 miles on any repair - so that's 25% of a Subaru warranty * Engine rebuilders (CCR for instance) give 36 months/36,000 miles I think it is: that's 8% of comparable warranties. That being said - I'll differ from everyone else on salvage titles - I wouldn't hesitate to buy a salvage title vehicle. I'd be pickier, but I wouldn't write it off. I'd prefer before/after pictures and assess from there, or in your case ask someone familiar with repairing wrecked cars about a given type of impact. 1. They generally aren't terrible to resell - I've had no problem rebuilding/selling wrecked Subarus. A professional shop can certainly surpass my skill set. It scares off a certain percentage of buyers and a lot of the ones that would typically pay top dollar. So it does affect the market, and yet once a vehicle gets up there in age - somewhere between 5-10 years old that stuff starts to matter less in terms of price. Depends on a lot of variables - damage/honesty/seller/local market/age - so there's no set percentage - but it's not terribly high on a 13 year old car. 2. A rebuilt car isn't the end of the world - granted I'd prefer clear information, before and after pictures - which I've shown people when I sell one that's been wrecked/repaired. I've never had issues with the ones I've rebuilt, some have over 100,000 miles since rebuild/total/salvage/recertification. I get it though - I totally understand and in a lot of ways it's probably good advice for people to steer clear of them. Heck I wouldn't want too many people okay with rebuilt cars - it would probably attract more sketchy people than not to the selling side of the market otherwise.

Actually you don't reseal the backing plate - you tigthen the backing plate screws. no need to seal it. the screws just come loose - tighten them. some people lock tite the screws them tigthen them. It helps to use a really good screw driver - one that really engages and gives leverage for some good torque. My impact screwdriver is amazing at this - the bits fit tight, bite strong, and the thick handle allows good torque. You reseal the pump body itself (not the backing plate) to the block. An oring is all that's needed - oil pump oring - same oring that i think was used for like decades, should be readily available. Definitely get a Subaru water pump, the aftermarkets are lame.

Subaru a/c systems are extremely robust, replacing the receiver/drier is way overkill and unnecessary. I mean it's nice and all to do it perfect, but I've drifted away from it as it's not worth my money or time: 1. Replace hoses 2. Replace any orings that are easy and you haven't yet. 3. replace schrader valves 4. Charge with 2 cans of refrigerant 5. drive 150,000 miles without issues. Done that countless times even on a bunch of Subarus. A 2003 with leaking hoses would be walk in the park. Do those 5 steps and another 150k here you come 6. unnecessary but might give you warm fuzzies: charge the system and at the very start of charging - open the other valve port to pseudo-ghetto-push some residual gases out. No need to pull a vacuum or use gauges - i have both but haven't used them in years. Would you like to buy them from me?! (just kidding). I do not recommend any of this on other vehicles, they may have more sensitive a/c systems and i'm not familiar with them, I only work on Subarus. So you may very well hear that's a very bad idea and I might agree. That's beyond my experience. But to that end - your boss is wise in recommending additional steps. I have worked on other manufacturers A/C systems and they seem to have more varying issues with A/C's than Subarus.

The two piece driveshafts you can remove the rear half and the front half seals the transmission still.

Yes - gotta get all the air out, they easily overheat when refilling, sometimes surprisingly even after taking your time and doing it right. Subaru requires that engine to get Subaru Coolant Conditioner to mitigate headgasket issues. Like $2.50 from the dealer.