idosubaru

I've gutted a cat in this manner before as well with no issue. If you break into small enough crumbs and there aren't massive caverns, turns, and hangs up in the exhaust somewhere it should all come shooting out. It was fun watching all the propellant shoot out the back the first time i started it up. LOL

yes - but the final drive ratios are different, 4.11 for VDC and 4.44 for Outbacks. i looked it up on opposed forces and i think some impreza's share that 4.11 front ring and pinion set. so what this means is that by swapping a front diff and rear extension housing one can use any 4EAT transmission in a VDC? that's comforting since the VDC's are so hard to find and expensive.

what was broken? ***a lot of us on USMB have bought the craigslist specials when we would have been wiser to walk!

belt markings (white lines) are for installation only and not needed at all, they're just an aid. after the first revolution they won't line up again except once every few thousands revolutions. 1. line up the cam sprocket timing marks. 2. line up the crank sprocket timing mark (MAKE SURE TO USE THE CORRECT MARK, some people use the wrong one) 3. release tensioner 4. rotate engine by hand and see if the cam and crank sprocket timing marks are still perfectly lined up. ***Notice you can install the belt without marks, they're not needed. if you follow those directions the timing belt markings are completely useless and unnecessary. think about it this way - the engine does not "look at" or "see" white lines on a timing belt, they're completely pointless mechanically speaking. if it wore off or you installed a belt without the lines the engine would certainly still run.

maybe you can attempt to bypass the battery cables with jumper cables, i've done that before. run jumper cables from battery to starter if you have enough room, i've done it on other subaru's, even an H6 but it was an older 6 cylinder Subaru, not the newer ones.

my 02 battery cables are terrible corroded way back under the insulation. the engine also wouldn't turn over at all. just dead, nothing. cleaned up the cables, cut back insulation hit the wire with stiff brush and all is well...but i know it's probably a matter of time before it does it again as badly corroded as the wiring was, it was nuts. essentially impossible to clean up it's so bad and integrated through all the strands and insulation.

i'm not sure that all state's emissions testing are identical, it may vary? it might not pass the California whackadoos they're cake. it's probably just the heat shields and your cat is fine.

VDC and 4EAT transmissions (not front diff and rear extension housing) appear identical....maybe there's really not much difference bewteen VDC and 4EAT transmissions?

if by "all the marks lined up" he means "all the proper timing marks are exactly where they're supposed to be" then no, he can't be off 180 degrees.

no electronics, wiring, or computer is needed - it is no different than installing another EJ25. bolt the EJ25 flywheel or flexplate to the EJ22. install a new timing belt kit whlie you're at it - all new tensioner, pulleys, and timing belt. 1997 and up EJ22's are interference. there are two style timing tensioners so choose your timing kit based on that (changed around 97 to a newer , less reliable tensioner set up). the EJ25 oil pump, timing pulleys, sprocket, and tensioner/bracket interchange with any Ej22 you buy. ALL 1995-1998 EJ22's will bolt in, plug and play, and run. it's a question of EGR and exhaust: 1995 automatic EJ22 is plug and play. install it and plug it in. minor differences in power steering line configurations, i just leave them hanging, they don't need bolted down anyway, otherwise use EJ25 brackets on EJ22 engine if you're looking for perfection. 1995 manual EJ22 won't have EGR but still works, you get a check engine light. there's a simple work around posted on this forum, find it. 1996-1998 EJ22 - get the exhaust manifold with it. they won't bolt up to the EJ25 exhaust - but the EJ22 exhaust fits right in place. get the ypipe/exhaust manifold with it (the part that bolts to the engine) and this becomes plug and play. 96-98 are more random in regards to EGR - but in a way it doesn't matter since there is an easy work around. just swap some vacuum hoses, very easy. there's also sometimes a evaporative emissions difference i think, though i haven'et worried about it here since the check engine light doesn't matter in this state. it's simply a difference between the "charcoal" canister being up front verses in the rear. not a big deal either. if you bolt an EJ22 intake manifold to an EJ18 you can even use one of those, but they are small and gutless. wouldn't be too bad as flat as it is around hinesville (i went to GT) and if it's a manual transmission or your wife doesn't mind small, gutless engines. the EJ22 is much better but Ej18's are awesome too!

thanks, will do, getting part numbers Solenoid Orings: Lock up duty (blue)806920040 Low clutch timing solenoid (gray)806908130 Line pressure duty solenoid(Red) - Oring #1 806920040 Line pressure duty solenoid(Red) - Oring #2 806904030 D)Shift solenoid 2 (Yellow) 806908130 (E) Shift solenoid 1 (Green)806908130 (F) 2-4 brake timing solenoid (Black)806908130 (G) 2-4 brake duty solenoid (Red) Oring #1 806920040 (G) 2-4 brake duty solenoid (Red) Oring #2 806904030 ATF temperature sensor isn't shown on opposed forces. If you're replacing all the solenoid orings it is: (4) 806908130 (3) 806920040 (2) 806904030 There are 3 external sensor orings: 806913070 Wiring harness oring: 806912140 This looks fairly generic for all 00-04 automatic transmissions

as already stated 97 EJ22 is interference unless it was previously swapped - all 1997-2001 EJ22's are interference. it's only 1996 and earlier that are not. install a new belt, line up the marks, and fire it up. if the belt and marks are good, then do a compression or leak down test. sometimes you can just slide your finger over the spark plug hole and tell if a motor is building compression or not. no. more likely is you used the wrong mark on the crank - there is another mark on the crank sprocket that confuses some people who use it mistakenly. (i answered "no" - i guess in truth of course you could have the timing off 180, i'm not there to see it)

Yes, they're can be great cars if you can find one in good condition. They're 15-20 years old, so that's a lot of time for poor maintenance, etc. I would focus heavily on finding one with few owners/great condition. (caveat to below) If you get one - get an aftermarket transmission cooler immediately and change the ATF often to protect the trans. Read up on wheel bearings, it's been awhile since I got into SVX game so my wheel lug nut torque comment may be off. Yes - get a parts car. I would be most concerned about getting sensors like TPS, idle, random bits, they'd be nearly impossible to get used and $$$ new. A $500 parts car would likely pay for itself - instantly pays for itself if you ever crack the windshield and you'd have spare hubs to swap out for bearing issues. I would buy *THE* SVX you want. And get a parts car later. Don't settle for something quick or because it comes with a parts car. Find a good car. If i'm buying somethign cheap, like an SVX I almost prefer to buy one for cheap with known issues - like a cracked windshield, bad bearings, or transmission - that's in otherwise great condition - you can almost bet that it was running fine before that one issue and that's why it's getting sold cheap. A cheap craigslist special on a car this old is worth scrutinizing carefully. l ***I'm in Morgantown and you definitely want to make sure you're not getting a rust bucket, so inspect underneath carefully.l

i got this transmission from a wrecked car in which the transmission pan was dented. It did work and drive poorly after the accident. It's for a 2002 VDC H6. Two of the solenoids under the transmission pan have completely cracked where the electrical wiring harness plugs into them. if the solenoids are impacted - is there any other possible damage or probably just the whimpy connectors? the connectors are part of the solenoid so it looks as simple as install some new (used that i already have) solenoids with good connectors and off we go. but i'm unfamiliar with what those solenoids do and if there's any other possible repercussions. i'll probably swap the wiring harness as well (looks easy) and the internal screen filter which also looks like it may have been lightly touched too.

well said. SVX's are neat cars and the engines are extremely durable, they can easily see 250,000 miles without a hint of an issue. and they're nifty. big concern is that parts are really hard to get for them. windshields are upwards of $700 to replace. other parts aren't needed that often but are hard to find. i was trying to find...i think it was a TPS sensor or idle air control part for a friend of mine and wasn't able to find one on the subaru boards, so it would have been a multi-hundred dollar Subaru part. fortunately they're reliable and don't have many issues needing parts but if it's the one car you need it can be challenging. they have significant transmission and wheel bearing issues. the transmissions are essentially the same as any other Subaru but the fluid heats up too much and hoses the trans, so if it has a transmission cooler and is maintained well they can last. but by this age they have been run without a cooler for a while, or are often dumped due to a transmission issue or have had a questionable used trans installed at some point. i think the wheels need properly torqued down to mitigate wheel bearing issues. i'm sure SVX people know how to address that. be nice to drive one first, the SVX is a nice riding car, excellent long distance commuter, but they're still not performance, gut wrenching track demons, so it may be a marginal improvement over what you have for a much older and unknown car.

good memory, then check that joker and see if it's been compromised in some way. and make sure the 2 10mm bolts that hold it in place are tight, they're a bear to get to insitu. not a huge deal but for being something so benign and simple they're annoying to forget.

pretty common for parts that are rarely removed/replaced to be unavailable at a dealer. i wouldn't expect them to have an oring like that in stock.

does the engine positively turn over fine itself (without the trans connected)? make sure it's actually related to flexplate issue. i like the mention of a bolt not fully seated hitting something. the timing belt is in place and properly time - it's positively aligned correctly and not interfering? there's a lower access cover plate that can get bent too, check that? i've had engines make noise due to rubbing that plate, so i suppose if it's bent up enough it could also interfere. it's not your problem (i doubt) but in general it's best to keep the flexplate married to the engine as it's fitment there that varies. the obvious way to tell if the TC was seated is that before installing the flex plate bolts - the torque converter and flexplate do not touch, if they do then it isn't seated fully. the flexplate bolt actually draw the two together.

sorry, i'm on the phone, i should qualify that a bit, i gave it a cursory glance so wasn't sure if it could be a different one - your oring should be on there though, looks like you got the part number?

Copy. Subaru 17595AA000 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_30/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/fuel_pipe/illustration_2/

EJ25D or something else?

i too wish the indications for engine temps and oil were clearer and more helpful. Which year/make/model Subarus had oil level lights? I've never seen or heard of one. i'm sure there's not a recall. but maybe you could add one to your 2008?

the EA82 can be great, don't run them out of oil or coolant and they'll run a lot of inexpensive miles. starting with a known good vehicle is helpful - with 25 years of history that gets tricky particularly if you're looking at cheap, non-running craigslist specials. replacing coolant hoses, seals, valve cover gaskets etc is important due to age. guess it depends on the person but carburetors to me are antiquated junk and the lack of them for decades makes the world a better place. my lawn mower doesn't have a carb and that was 100% intentional. the SPFI is simple and widely used. MPFI isn't a big deal either. but i can understand in the same way i hate carbs there's people that hate the wires. if you like simple and reliable then an EA81 might be an option to look into. older wagons or up to 1988 GL hatches.

yes, i've done it. snip, rotate, snip if you have to. it was a few years ago but i'm pretty sure i just grapped mine with needle nosed and bent it out...but i've probably worked on 50 Subaru's since then so I could be mistaken. it'll come off and not be that difficult.

magnetic pan heater sounds interesting for a simple temporary solution. it is said 0w is too light for older Subaru engines so i avoid it but i have no experience running 0w, i don't think the owners manual recommends it does it? Mine seemed to be starting fine and we were seeing down to -8 earlier this week.