idosubaru

there's a complete guide/write up posted on this forum - probably in the USRM section. search and read through it and see if you're up to it. the only tricky part is wiring. you strip the EJ harness down until you have like 2 or 3 wires to splice into your vehicle body...power/ignition/something or another, read the manual. if the wiring look daunting there are people on this forum that have done the complete wire harness prep-strip for folks for about $200 - $300. that's well worth it for some folks over reinventing the wheel and going through a process for the first time that you'll never likely do again.

no. cars101.com

Headgaskets - look to see if they've been replaced before or look underneath the engine at the head-to-block mating surface. They leak coolant and/or oil externally there. Torque bind - as always check for it.

that's an XT6 foglight button - exactly. all XT6's have those, maybe they were used in other models or transferred over, but they're readily available from XT6's.

buy whatever car you want, add rack later if you want subaru roof racks later they're $150: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-2013-Subaru-Impreza-OEM-Fixed-Roof-Rack-Kit-Cross-Bar-Set-E361SFJ000-/121149490047 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2313537 google has much more

it's not the seal/gasket area. I think you're trying to repair somethign that's not an issue. I would replace the water pump first if you can't find the issue. It may have a hairline crack or gap somewhere that's opening when thermal cycling and leaking. 1. The water pump has a casting flaw or crack, compromise in it 2. There's a casting flaw in the block Casting flaws can expand/contract with heat and leak only at high temps and be difficult to find.

718-497-3900 these guys have two 1995 EJ22's for $250. Sell EJ25 for $300 (or more) Pay $250 for EJ22 + $50 for fluids, clamps, etc = $300 to replace Or pay $150 for an EJ18 and save another $100 if you can source an EJ22 intake manifold for it. Free repair or make money on it. I pulled the EJ25 in my legacy, installed a $150 EJ18, and made a lot of money on the Ej25.

torque bind. test drive on dry days on pavement, drive with wheel turned to full lock (left/right doesn't matter). let car coast around like 3 full circles. any sense of braking indicates torque bind. it'll be obvious slowly or herky jerky. if you can't tell, then it's not doing it, it's not like it's an art and hard to tell. and headgaskets are about the only thing you need to know. they leak externally underneath at the head to engine mating surface. that's the two major things you need to look out for.

There's a LEV-R radiator cap or something like that which is said to help sometimes, i've never tried it. a former user...i dare mention his name or technique...but he filled the system with brake fluid instead of antifreeze due to it's "better resistance" to the effects of the internally blown headgaskets. he ran his car awhile like that. not saying i recommend it but i almost thinks that's a better alternative than any miracle elixir. you're pretty much hosed though really and the "repairs in a bottle" are generally a waste of money. best option: $150 used EJ22 or EJ18 install it Sell the EJ25 for more than you pay for the EJ22 (if you can install two $50 headgaskets first you'd get more)

not sure if they're different but PT4WD or FT4WD? some vacuum line routing is sometimes located under the hood...though if that pic suggest you have a new/different hood that's not going to help much.

Word, tear it up Subaru peeps!

copy, thanks Gloyale - it plugged in and "ran" but very poorly. i drove it 40 miles one day but it was bucking, inconsistent and i didn't trust it. it's sat since then and i couldn't figure it out. i'll keep your last comments about disty signals in mind next time i dig into this which i hope is soon.

good job! what? you got to the timer that easily? i've worked a bunch on mine and never even been able to find it! GRRRRR!! mine still has randomly locking doors.

you answered a question i had - *only* Subaru's in the Northwest and Colorado-ish area that command the higher prices? is it all 4WD's? this is accurate: HA! that's hysterical - common vehicle saying is "Inexpensive, fast, reliable. Choose 2". cheap = low cost quick turnaround = fast high quality = reliable.....for your wife that might read "Well trimmed" some feel torque-ier than others but Subaru non-turbo vehicles aren't quick off the line. lots of other cars feel much eager to jump the line than Subarus. just not what they go for. but that's not why i drive Subaru's so it's a non-issue to me. most highschool kids don't drive many miles or far so i'd be less concerned about longevity/reliability. but if they'll drive this car into college i'd favor reliability/high mileage capability more than the other stuff. i know everything about Subaru's and nothing about anything else so i can't comment on what that means except to say i'd avoid german and american cars unless it's one of their rare gems in those regards.

subarus are high priced in your area, makes sense the price tag would turn people off or put you in older vehicles that are less appealing. Actually I'm sorry I missed it the first time but that car is *past due* for a timing belt change. It's 105,000 miles OR 10 years. That timing belt is more than 10 years old. If it breaks it'll sustain valve damage. In case this helps on any future vehicle you look at, negotiate a major upcoming/due service into the deal (timing belt in this case). while Subaru may charge $699 to change the belt - it's only a $59 part and can be done in 45 minutes. calculate that per-hour profit! many dealers wouldn't mind "throwing that in" for a sale, though of course it depends on their labor/charging structure how that works out for a given salesmen, department, dealer.

nothing really. remove flexplate and install flywheel. main concern is the EGR situation of both engines. get a timing belt kit from rockauto or amazon for $120-$130 - all new belt, pulleys, and tensioner. don't leave the 15 year old tensioner in there.

yeah looks like you bolt the original turbo intake onto the non-turbo engine. these two threads have different people both saying the intakes/wiring between EA82/EA82T should be the same: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/51092-swapping-ea82-into-an-ea82t/?hl=ea82t http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/39863-issues-swapping-ea82-into-an-ea82t/?hl=ea82t everyone is saying they're plug and play so the wiring matches up. and i know they bolt up just fine, so i'd go for it, someone will likely chime in to confirm.

it bolts up just the same, same gaskets, but that's all i know. someone else will know. i used a non-turbo intake when i did mine, i don't recall why i did that though. i don't recall even trying to keep/use the EA82T intake.

Great, thanks. i found and noted a couple of EA82 - EA82T 88+ swap threads for later. Are you of the opinion that an EA82 should plug and play into an 87.5 XT Turbo? What is unclear is which FSM represents the 87.5 XT Turbo? It appears to have almost entirely 88 era XT accoutrements. ***But the 88 XT FSM has no turbo information in it at all. So what does that mean - how do I get reliable 87.5 Turbo XT wiring info? Sorry - I meant wiring.

i was thinking a skid plate of sorts and/or friends helping me up and over. i hadn't thought that i gotta get it back in there! lift the rear and chain it to the lift - a "load leveler" set up front to back sort of. hopefully that last foot or two of the rear end won't be too tough.

engine bay looks like it's been prepped - cleaned, sprayed shiny/hoses. what do they spray on that anyway - WD40? LOL those glassy shiny surfaces are not normal, they spruced it up. these headgaskets leak externally on the bottom and should always been looked at prior to purchase. obviously this one has already been cleaned so there's no way to tell. the mileage is good and probably indicative of an owner that wanted to dump the car before the 100K timing belt service. dealers charges $450 - $700 to replace the belt only. ideally the belt, idler, and tensioner are all replaced. kits on rockauto or amazon are the best bet, dealer prices are extraneous and no one pays for a complete job through them - so you get a lesser end product usually. +1 to what fairtax said. but you probably won't like much in the 90's - the nicer vehicles (what you seem to be after) generally have the 2.5 which in 99 and earlier is not a good motor. some late 90's (99) LSi's have the 2.2 liter engine and can look sharp with the rear spoiler, etc. the 00 and up 2.5's like this has are much better in regards to headgasket issues - they don't leave you stranded and give lots of warning/prep time (you can literally wait years) to repair.

garage doors are fairly standard heights of 7 feet or 8 feet, so i'm actually thinking i may only have 7 feet now, but it seems i should be able to make it happen. i'd rather not have to move the entire car out of the garage in the middle of winter.

there's a brat engine in the baltimore, MD craigslists. i know nothing about it, just passing it along.

what a nutty idea, i love what Uberoo get's into! are there any existing transmissions that already do this - simpler to retrofit than redesign the wheel so to speak? woah, that's unfortunate. sorry to hear that presslab. it is awesome what you've shared on the boards, i'm sorry it went down with another board member like that.

can you estimate an approximate "highest" point of the lift when the engine/trans combo is pulled as a lump? 8 feet? i've done this before, but the space i've got this time is less since i know it gets really vertical pulling both. with garage door closed i don't have enough room to slide the lift away from the car with garage door open, it closes off the open space above and i don't have the room to lift as high i can alternately: 1. lift as high as garage door allows, then lift the rear of the trans separately so it's more horizontal and slides over the radiator cross member or 2. roll the entire contraption out of the garage when i'm ready to pull it, i'd rather avoid that though.