idosubaru

No TSB's or recalls, there was a 100,000 mile headgasket warranty campaign in 2000-2002 that is now aged out. But external coolant and/or oil leaks are common on 2000-2010 EJ25's (and 99 forester/Impreza RS). Make sure it's not valve cover, oil cooler, or front seals leaking. those are very common and easily mistaken based on how the oil migrates underneath. sounds like you've narrowed it down but understand our hesitation to confirm when we can't see it. The good news is as long as you don't let it run low on oil it'll keep running as long as you care to check/add oil. they won't catastrophically fail or leave you stranded. The timing belt has to come off to do the headgaskets so might as well time the head gasket job with the timing belt job. Use Subaru headgaskets. Some are using the EJ25 Turbo headgaskets on your engine because the Turbo engines never have head gasket problems like the non turbos'. It's not necessarily confirmed it's because of the headgaskets but they do appear more robust.

Legacy does not come with the H6 - unless there's some newer years that do. www.cars101.com would tell you what vehicles the H6 is available in. Difference between 4 and 6 - simply look at cars101.com and let it inform you of any quesiton you have, size, space, cargo, HP, trim options, vehicles, models, years. I posted those simply as an illustration, get one with 100k as you originally intended. I'd expect 250,000 miles out of an H6, 300k isn't that big of a deal either. i'm planning on 300k+ out of mine, at 220k now. i just blew the transmission (my fault) and am repairing it with the idea it's still got 100k or so in it otherwise it would be worth my time to repair. "Better" is so subjective you'll get every answer in the book. The H6 so far has appeared to be an excellent engine. Low maintenance, no issues, capable of high miles. There have been a few H6 headgasket failures, they seem rare - but correlation does not mean causation - one has to guess as to whether they're rare because there's fewer H6's or because the issue is less prevalent. I'm still of the mindset that they're a better motor, for me. It's not a truck at all. obvious, but truck guys can easily dislike Subarus.

he's not. he installed the EJ25 intake manifold wiring harness onto the EJ22 intake manifold so he's retaining the manifold with the engine.

nope, ECU doesn't matter. the OBS is probably a tad smaller in space than the foresters so if space is a concern - hobbies, family, work, travel...you'll likely want the forester. www.car-101.com has storage/space specs if you want to compare. probably much easier to find a 1995-1998 OBS than a one year 98 forester, but if you expand your search you'll surely find both. as to headgaskets: ivansimports, GD, Gloyale, Shawn...folks with extensive experience would probably be best to comment on head gasket options. there are COMETIC and Six Star head gaskets, i'm uncertain if they are considered full "cures" to the head gasket issue, particularly the EJ25 DOHC head gasket which is the worst of the varieties. for Phase II headgaskets there are MLS varieties from Subaru that are preferred. And the Turbo engines do not blow headgaskets and some folks are using those on non-turbo engines. but correlation does not mean causation so whether the gaskets or the differences in blocks help the head gaskets to hold better i'm unsure of. The best bet for a head gasket job is to properly do the job and resurface the heads and block (ivansimports does that to them all) to get the best possible seal you can.

i'd do exactly what you're suggesting - run the 15" alloys in the summer and the 14" steels in the winter. you don't want to use one set of wheels for both sets of tires, dismounting and remounting tires every fall and spring is annoying and a waste of time. you want two dedicated sets of wheels. you already said you wanted the 15" for the summer. and that makes sense, no point in running the alloys in the winter where they'll deteriorate faster. if price is a factor then compare 14" and 15" snows and all seasons and see if there's a compelling difference either way.

an 89 wagon is an EA82 engine. they don't have headgasket issues. don't let it run hot and the gaskets will last as long as you keep the vehicle probably. EA82's are great motors if you like cheap, reliable, and easy to work on. new coolant (which new hoses and such require) is excellent preventative maintenance. good job!

The coolant additive is intended for Phase II engines, I don't know that it does anything for the internally blowing Phase I's? Probably can't hurt of course to try it if every other Phase II is running around with the stuff in it, might be a good idea. I try to avoid the 90's stuff due to rust around here, they're not worth my time usually so I'm drifting away from them fast.

Correct , between 95-98 EJ22 and EJ25's are completely interchangeable - plug and play. There are a couple notes: 1. 96-98 EJ22's have single port exhaust so you'll need the DOHC exhaust manifold for the 2.5 - but it's all bolt on and simple swap and the exhaust has to come of the heads/engine anyway to swap so it's not any extra work. 1995 EJ22's have dual port exhaust that bolts right up to the EJ25. 2. not all EJ22's have EGR but your EJ25 probably does so it'll just go unused on the EJ22. i block them off and remove the system, i suppose you can just leave it too. either way it's not an issue - car runs and drives fine no matter the EGR - it's just a matter of check engine lights. 3. swap the EJ22 flexplate or flywheel onto the EJ25 Foresters started in 1998 so you only have one year. OBS's are simple, fantastic platforms for driving and high miles. Yes - except SVX and EJ18 imprezas. You could probably figure out how to put it in an EJ18 impreza if you wanted though - swap the impreza intake manifold harness onto the EJ25 possibly?

1. Is the transmission pan dented in any way? 2. How many miles (kilo's) and is it a heavy use vehicle? I would guess the solenoid is failing and needs replaced. I don't believe it's expensive or difficult to replace. The transmission does not need removed, just remove the transmission pan for access. But of course you want to confirm before guessing. The Subaru Factory Service manual should have a testing schematic for verifying the solenoid. Probably best to test it when it's currently not working properly (light is on, shifting erratic). *** These transmissions usually go 200,000 miles, not likely to be "warn" components unless it's a racing/towing/heavy use vehicle. *** You said it performs excellent sometimes - suggesting the transmission is in good condition The shift solenoid D circuit or sensor is compromised. If it's a circuit repair (bad connector/wire) or solenoid replacement: 1. the sensor itself could be bad. 2. the wiring could be compromised (the dented pan mentioned above would be the simplest thing that could "cause" this to happen) 3. transmission controller is bad (this is extremely rare and highly unlikely). Sensor and wiring are largely inside the transmission pan and not that hard to access for repair. The controllers are super easy to replace and you replace the with a used controller ($50 over here) since they never fail.

The H6 engines are awesome. Two of our family daily drivers are H6 engines because of how good they are. No timing belts to change, direct ignition, no spark plug wires either - 200,000 miles is a breeze with little to no maintenance but spark plugs. (mine have 220,000 and 175,000 and i plan on 300k). Gas mileage is less than 4 cylinders but it's flat in Cinci so should fair okay depending what kind of driving you do. Legacys handle nice - close to the ground and tight. But they're lower to the ground and some people like getting into the higher stanced outback. personal preference. Legacy will have better gas mileage and fewer CV boot replacements due to less angles. Outbacks need CV boots all the time, the legacys can see far more miles due to less angles. Not a big deal really, just one small maintenance item. If the 2010/2011 Legacy/Outback got an improved headgasket - which i feel like AWD Auto mentioned something about (google them) - that might be something to consider if you can land in one of those. a 100,000 mile 4 cylinder is around the timing belt maintenance mark. and i'd prefer getting one that *has not* been done that way i can assure it's done right - a complete timing belt kit rather than just the belt like Subaru dealers do. or personally i'd just get it and do it myself no matter if it's been done or not any way to make sure all the pulleys and tensioners are done. kits are $130 on amazon. but dealers charge $450 (pittsburgh) - $700 (maryland) just to do the belt alone.

The only Forester it's plug and play into is 1998. it is plug and play into: 95-98 EJ22 or EJ25 equipped Legacy, Impreza, and Forester 1999 Outback 1999 Legacy's with 2.5's The EJ25 changes significantly in 1999/2000 (depending on model) Phase I: Your EJ25D (DOHC 2.5 liter) and all 1996-1998 EJ25's, and 99 Legacy/Outbacks. Phase II: 99 EJ22's and 99 Forester & Impreza EJ25's and all 2000+ EJ25's. A Phase I engine is not plug and play into the Phase II engines. Gloyale has mentioned swapping the wiring harness - swap the Phase II wiring harness onto your older Phase I EJ25 DOHC and then it is plug and play. I haven't tried it yet but with some searching you'd find a thread where he's already mentioned it. The idling mechanisms I believe are different though, I'm unsure of the work around for that...swap throttle bodies maybe...i'd find his mention of it previously.

does the vehicle sit roughly the same ride height or lower/higher? mounting brackets are spaced differently (new ones are "in" further) or springs are wider measure both and compare you're not talking about US market stuff so i'm unsure what is/isn't possible but some options would be: 99 rear hub assembly w/ABS? 94 springs on 99 struts? complete 94 strut assemblies? bashing the area in the inner fender well where it's rubbing might be an option?

and another steering rack? wow!

Compare rack bushings on opposed forces - if they're the same part numbers then that's a good sign. Might be able to compare other part numbers too - steering fluid lines, crossmember, tie rods...which are probably all the same. The ujoint/steering coupler will differ as the Outbacks are longer, but same splined shaft count. I think the only main difference between EJ racks and old generation 80's Subaru's, which can also interchange steering rack bushings, is the angle of the valve where it protrudes to connect with the steering column ujoint. that won't be different across EJ's.

that's the boat drain plug they installed before stashing it in the bushes with the windows down. LOL nice hit and good job getting going on it! "76 Forester" is hysterical.

of course if you do a complete wiring swap it's doable but that's tons of work. there are a couple of easier options: 1. find a OBDII EJ22 intake manifold (95-98 EJ22), bolt it on top of the 92 EJ22 and it's plug and play into the 98 with zero wiring work. that is what i would do, and have done before. 2. you could attempt to transfer the EJ25 engine side wiring harness onto the 92 intake manifold - i *think* it's possible. the west coast folks should know as your early EJ's haven't all rusted to oblivion like ours years ago.

All EJ25's have headgasket concerns. You could look into H6 engines, but those never came with manual transmissions. I'd lean towards the better motor and forget the manual transmission myself. They are excellent engines. this has more miles than you want but as an example I'd be aiming for something like this: http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/4225602491.html Cinci: but the add is dead wrong it says "new timing belt" when that car has a chain that isn't replaced: http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/ctd/4225814633.html The turbo engines are awesome but I wouldn't want one unless it can be verified the oil changes were done on time and always with synthetic. They are prone to issues if not. And they're pricey so may be hard to meet your stipulations. http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/4220182940.html 2001 Imprezas were the last ones that were availbable with the 2.2 liter engines. Great engines and would be easy to find one with low miles for way under your price. Be a great platform for another reliable, inexpensive, 150,000+ miles. If you have any inclination or ability to stretch yourself and buy from the south or west you are at a huge advantage. They have much less corrossion and rust. And while it'll be easy to find one without any notable signs or issues from rust - they'll still have exhausts that will rust out in time and brake, strut, hose clamps, and other parts that are likely to corrode in time as well due to winters/salt. In any event - rust is probably the major thing I'd look for in a purchase. Exhaust and suspension components should be a good indicator of condition. Body style changed in 2005 so an 05+ is likely to "feel less aged" as well and might be a better long term fit depending what kind of car owner you are. If you'll feel out of the loop in a few years with an old body style for instance, some people do.

i agree - exhaust work is best left to a shop and that's why i voted for your suggestion to begin with. just throwing out another option if he happens to be the "I'll attempt it myself" type. i definitely don't recommend it, that's for sure. then the dirt, debris, hot metal bits from cutting, and rust all falls down in your eyes, it's awful!

What is your EA82T doing? That Conditioner was made for one specific application - Phase II EJ25 external coolant leaks (2000+ EJ25's and 99 Forester and Impreza RS). It doesn't work on Phase I EJ25's at all. Unlikely to help an EA engine. If your EA82T has an external coolant leak similar to EJ25's then maybe it's worth a shot. But they usually blow much worse than that and I've only ever seen one externally leaking older generation headgasket. May be risky considering the cooling systems differ. If "repairs in a bottle" work, it's usually a limited time frame - which often means more overheating episodes which do bad things to the lower end block which won't be repairable..well not without massive expense. Blue Devil gets touted a lot for folks wanting quick fixes, but I don't recommend it.

+1 to exhaust comments, exactly. a shop that wants to help you out can cut out the rusted section and weld in new pipe. $50 he mentioned is the same they charge around here. it only takes them 30 minutes and the materials cost is almost nothing so that's easy money for them. they rust through at typical areas like flanges, so they're easily cut out and replaced. if it is an easy flange you can even cut it out yourself, buy a piece of pipe at any auto parts store, cut it to fit (sawzall), rent a tail pipe expander (free at advance auto) and slide the new pipe in yourself. i did a 99 legacy earlier this year and it was amazing, took like 15 minutes, very easy. but in general it's worth it to have a shop do it in case it's not straight in the arer that needs replaced.

+1 LOL

you do not need to replace the rear strut, just leave it. it'll be fine, i've done it gobs of time. it's not a big deal. it's a functioning part and the struts can easily keep on chugging along for a lot more miles. it might not...but it might. and if it does - you can replace with a used strut assembly for $35 and it's easy (no spring disasembly, etc) - swap out and done in minutes. "the one was bad so i replaced it". if it wasn't bad you would have never replaced and be running two rear struts without ever even thinking about it. having one new and one old is no big deal at all. i've done it, no notable difference....which you're also confirming because you haven't stated any issues as such? but you won't have any as I never have. maybe if you race, tow, or do something high performance related...but doesn't sound like it. no - replacing rotors has nothing to do with alignments. you can do those later. that being said - if it's convenient you can have them turned for $15 instead of replacing rotors. just replace the one that's vibrating, don't replace both. been there done that too. no big deal. the "replace in pairs" mantra is highly talked about but way overkill. i would highly recommend i on a $10,000 newer vehicle that yo'ure expecting another 150,000 miles out of...but that doesn't sound like the case here.

I talked to him offline - car is at 223,000 miles and running great. I'm going to attempt the exact same thing on my H6. There is also a pinion depth that needs set as well I think...but I'm going to hope I can keep that close enough be swapping the same parts/shims and hope the cases and thickness of sealants used all work out close enough. I'll try to "check" backlash once I'm done assembling but I really have no idea how to do it and it sounds like too much of an art to me.

in some ways - 00-09 4 cylinder non-turbos are all nearly identical, minor differences. engines, trans, suspension can all be swapped in various ways/forms without much issue. 00-04 would probably get my vote but they're also older and prone to more miles, more age, more rust. so the minor advantages they may have is offset by age/miles/condition. "best" is highly subjective. best bet is to familiarize yourself with headgasket issues and go from there. all EJ25's have headgasket issues so you'd be well advised to learn what to look for and how to approach that issue.

You still around? Did this transmission hold up just fine?