idosubaru

this is a very DIY group. we know what to pay for what we're getting - that it would be easy to beat that for $1,000. Take this with a grain of salt, i'm an oddball. I help people all the time (usually multiple a week and always free). When I want to help (and i've done this recently and currently), i'd help them sell their car and go buy what i want. we both win that way. what you're proposing makes no sense for me - waste of my time and theirs to try to wrangle a good deal for them and me from one car - two mutually exclusive propositions and very limiting, i'd rather pick my car. but that's not how everyone works - i'm in a very rural state, the largest city here is only 50,000 people, a mere suburb for most states - and that's 2.5 hours away. my neighbors will wheel and deal "locally" which means up and down the holler - with people they know or aunt jennies, mailman's, grocery store bagger guy has a car to trade for 3 cows kind of deals. compared to how i do things it's worlds apart but it works for them. extrapolate that out and people operate in a lot of different ways and it's not easy to compare transactions.

It wasn't until 2000 that all legacy's got the 2.5. Only GT and LSi had 2.5's. Legacy Brightons, L, LS all got the 2.2

you can try - i doubt oil will really get into the bearing journals though. someone else will probably have a good idea? old school subarus you could spin the oil pump by hand to get oil moving first before installing the timing belts, can't do that with newer geneartion EJ motors. prime it properly without starting it. no fuel - turn engine over.

+1 there are two different EJ25 DOHC valve covers, make sure you get the right one.

$500. for the sake of being really high and leaning towards helping the person out I'd call it a $500 car, maybe $1,000 high end if it's interior is super nice and there's zero rust/exhaust leaks at all - so $750 in the middle for a fair valuation. KY is not a hopping Subaru market so it won't command amazing prices like some areas. nearly 300,000 mile cars are a small market. 200,000 rules out a lot of buyers and being way over that i wouldn't expect much. High miles, it's dented, torque bind is unknown whether it'll be a simple fix or not, and tires are expensive (relative to the worth of the vehicle) these guys would probably take $1,000 for this already swapped EJ22 Outback with 100,000 less miles on body: http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/4201336390.html compare to edmunds, kelly blue book, craigslist, autotrader, ebay (which is generally really low priced for stuff like this) If you run it through Edmunds, which I just did, it values it as zero dollars needing repairs. But if you lie about it's condition and say it's average (no dents, no torque bind, good tires) - it still only says it's worth $461.

to clarify, you mean the rear driveshaft and not the CV shafts right? "driveshaft" is often used for both.

got a picture - i'm wondering what they look like? in the recall - it says they install the guards but only replace broken springs. having the guards does not mean the springs were replaced so yours could still be original.

the full recall report mentions springs breaking and puncturing tires!

Rust. 96 (and others?) Subaru Recall 01V216000: Summary: VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH FRONT COIL SPRINGS ORIGINALLY SOLD IN OR CURRENTLY REGISTERED IN THE STATES OF CONNECTICUT, DELAWARE, ILLINOIS, INDIANA, IOWA, KENTUCKY, MAINE, MARYLAND, MASSACHUSETTS, MICHIGAN, MINNESOTA, MISSOURI, NEW YORK, NEW JERSEY, NEW HAMPSHIRE, OHIO, PENNSYLVANIA, RHODE ISLAND, VERMONT, VIRGINIA, WEST VIRGINIA, AND WISCONSIN, AND IN THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. THE FRONT COIL SPRINGS WERE PRODUCED WITH POOR PAINT QUALITY WHICH, AFTER CONTINUED EXPOSURE TO CORROSIVE SALT, CAN RESULT IN BREAKAGE OF THE SPRING.

oil pick up tube gasket should definitely be replaced.

+1 it's a stand alone belt, nothing else is affected. make sure the frayed belt isn't caused by the crank pulley starting to separate. draw a line across the face of it and make sure that line stays solid and doesn't separate. or, if the belt is already damaged, the unevenness of the pulley is likely visible.

Do you not mind doing the work? If not - just do the belt now and do the belt and timing components in 50k. That engine is easy enough to do that's a great option. Belt and timing components only take 30-45 minutes, they're easy, no cleaning of surfaces like water and oil pumps. There's lots of reasons you may opt to do it all now too, if you don't like working on cars at all then get as much out of this as possible. If the vehicle is questionable in terms of lasting very long then maybe you just do it all now and never think about it again. Or if you are likely to have life situation changes (moving, family, job, large future projects/commitments) - then being done with it for as long as possible may be of value to you. http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCK304-Timing-Belt-Component/dp/B002R8HMAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1385604910&sr=8-1&keywords=subaru+gates+timing+belt+kit

those separator plates are small and easy enough to get to, i doubt you'll have much problem getting it off.

Hone your search skills and expand your range: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Other-GL-4WD-1983-subaru-brat-gl-4-wd-vintage-clear-title-one-owner-vehicle-/151173849634?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2332a9e222&item=151173849634&pt=US_Cars_Trucks http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Other-TAN-1984-subaru-brat-4-x-4-no-reserve-/271330372406?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3f2c8ceb36&item=271330372406&pt=US_Cars_Trucks http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Other-GL-1982-subaru-brat-gl-standard-cab-pickup-2-door-1-8-l-/251387724630?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3a87e04356&item=251387724630&pt=US_Cars_Trucks http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/4138566358.html Look here: USMB For Sale forum: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forum/52-subarus-for-sale-trade-or-wanted/ Craigslist Post a "Brat Wanted" add in the For Sale, Trade, Wanted forum: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forum/52-subarus-for-sale-trade-or-wanted/ Autotrader and Ebay are long shots, ebay is good if you don't mind paying top dollar for what you get. In general expand your range a LOT - the northeast and midwest Brats are mostly gone due to rust and the ones still available are prone to rust issues. You may land on one locally but you'll greatly increase your odds by looking south and west where rust is not an issue and you'll likely end up with a vehicle that's in better condition and lasts longer too. I am into XT6's and the last two I bought were from thousands of miles away - Texas and California, because I'm tired of rust. Well worth the effort.

nice idea. seems perfectly plausible. just shave the engine side of the bellhousing and you're golden right? does XT6 starter engage with EJ flywheel or just use an EJ starter?

good job! replace the oil pan, they will rust through, i have one that's leaking and needs replaced right now, the car is undrivable. the EJ25 pan fits the EJ22.

simply install an OBD EJ22 intake manifold and it's all plug and play for DOHC EJ25's and Phase I EJ22's. EJ25 and EJ18 and 1995 EJ22 vehicles are dual port exhaust. The rest are Single port exhaust. EGR has a work around. Do not touch the ECU.

you personality will dictate the answer: how do you view reliability, longevity, repairs, finances, risk mitigation, back up vehicles, paying to have it done verses doing it yourself if it does break, how anal are you...lots of variables. in general brand isn't all that concerning. i used Subaru for quite a few years with the advent of interference engines in 1997. since that time i've drifted towards aftermarket belts now that they have a good track record. i avoid the cheapest stuff and no name brands on ebay/amazon. there are gates kits for $130 on amazon right now, hard to beat that. a statistically relevant reply would look something like this: Subaru belts have a 0.00003% failure rate.....the worst aftermarket belts have a 0.00005% failure rate. if you're the kind of person to sweat and twitch and rock back and forth or get worked up because 2 more failures per hundred thousand instances, then get the Subaru belt. granted the numbers are made up, but it's something like that. if you're the kind of person you have a lot to worry about too with all the risks involved in life. then again - belts are cheap - $60 or less, no biggie. do what you want. statistically speaking the chance of timing belt failure is probably more correlated to how well the job is done, not getting fluids on the belt, properly torquing bolts, retaining the stock bolts, properly compressing the tensioner, etc.

Sounds like starter, cable issue, or the battery is too dead to turn the engine over, or the wiring harness isn't plugged in or fully seated. Can they get us a picture of the harness that isn't connected to anything? Would help to know what it is. In general EJ25 engines swap across auto to manuals without issue, that shouldn't cause issue. Can he read the codes via OBDII scanner - that would probably tell us what isn't plugged in.

take one with you. 10mm head & M6x1.00 I believe

battery (sometimes they can test bad depending what kind of test was done) drain simple test - disconnect the battery one night and go back out and reconnect it in the morning. if it won't start every night....then starts one night after doing this....then you just diagnosed a battery drain. any aftermarket or electrical work is likely drain point - stereo? mutlimeter set to milliamps between the battery post and positive cable end will tell you how bad the drain is. less than 50 milliamps is normal then start pulling fuses until the drain goes away. that takes just a couple minutes. once you know what fuse it's on you track it down to the items on that fuse.

i would use the stuff that tests for gases in the coolant. if ivansimport says the compressed air works then that's a good option, he does this all the time.

not a stripped bolt, captive nut has broken loose internally. i can try drilling a hole first. though it's 180 ft/lbs torque, not sure a hole will yield that good of access for a weld.

they are not very forgiving with bleeding air but this sounds like it's going to be headgaskets. an exhaust gas in the coolant test will confirm it if you have any suspicions. those usually leak externally and at the initial onset you can add the required Subaru Coolant Conditioner and that will stop initial leaks. but if she overheated it really bad (you said - not paying attention to the guage - engines can not be overheated, bad things happen) then that exacerbates things quickly and could have caused a worse than normal failure.

+1 - block is easily carried. heads make it heavier and more awkward. a block is easy- reach right in the cylinder bores.