idosubaru

As he clarified…. check diff fluid first. The diff fluid (and any contaminants) is self contained entirely to the trans. If you pull the old trans and toss it - all the diff fluid and contaminants are also gone. It’ll either be larger bits and pieces of gear teeth or “liquified” bearing material swirling suspended in solution in the gear oil. This would be a good sign - no need to worry about the ATF lines being contaminated. But that’s not the case with the ATF. Throw the trans away and there’s still residual fluid (and potential debris) in the hard lines and rubber lines to the trans, ATF filter, cold and hard lines to and from the radiator and inside the radiator itself. Flush all of those ATF lines out if the diff fluid was clean with no signs of gear debris or swirling metal bearing contaminant.

that’s great! Grandfather offered me his truck before he got rid of it. Was 800 miles away in college so I passed. Now I wish I was driving around in his truck. A college friend died in a car wreck. A few years later his dad said. “You know, I’m done with this truck and seeing how you work on cars it seemed like you’d get better use out of it than me just trading it in. I don’t want it to be a trouble but could you use it?” In a few years my son can drive it to school. His name is the last name of that beautiful family who lost their son. I’m a sucker for you rocking your dads car.

Check the ATF for debris and ask them to blow the AT lines out with compressed air (or fluid if they can). Or just blow out the ATF lines and radiators if they can if there's any debris in it. And definitely change the AT filter. I would actually guess it's diff related and not the trans so that's probably not even necessary but since I don't know we have to assume it could be the trans.

I've bought a few JDM engines and trans. My daily driver is an H6 I installed a 100,000 miles ago. Great results - excellent pricing and they've always been squeaky clean as if they have low miles. Newer 2005+ engines are prone to have a damaged connectors or two due to shipping because they of all that variable valve and oil senders/solenoids sticking out everywhere. Minor, I just remedy that myself. Keep in mind no matter what they say - you never know the actual mileage. It's just a rough average based on Japanese driving and car regulation laws that tend to decrease the economic sense of keeping cars long term. And all the suppliers are selling the same exact parts from the same source - none have some "secret supply" of Japanese parts that are any different than another company. So look at reviews in terms of individual service and parts comments in terms of any JDM parts regardless of what stateside company is selling. Don't waste time wondering or worrying if one JDM supplier has "better parts" than another. They're all just filling containers from the dismantling services in Japan. 90k is no big deal for a 4EAT. The difference between a 50k and 90k trans is a wash and more dependent on history/how it was driven or assembled/luck than anything practical related to internals. That's benign. I would only pay a very small premium for that 40k, not much. That's an ideal source, local, can talk tot them, easier warranty if needed and you can sometimes verify the source vehicle - if it lot drove or why it was totaled. 4EAT's are my favorite Subaru transmission - they're excellent - so the warranty isn't likely to be needed - but you've got it if you do. That's probably the one I buy if they have good reviews or are locally known/reputable. I'd pay more for the reputable/local place and pay more attention to that than mileage. For example - two local yards that often have lots of Subaru's. One has smooth transactions, disassembles and stores their parts in massive warehouses inside out of the elements, has the parts pulled for you ahead of time, knows what they have, is very helpful and organized. Another local yard has more subarus but they let the cars and parts lay exposed outside, won't remove them until the last minute (rushed, banging, cutting, tossing it around), aren't very helpful, poor attitudes (i can't imagine how many complaints they must get)...anyway - I'll pay a premium to buy from the other company although they're actually often cheaper or the same somehow. Anyway I'd base my decision more on that and the picture of the car than 50k or 90k. Some car-part.com places show pictures of the car so you can see the damage. Might have to navigate a body part or three to find a picture of the car if they listed pictures for some parts but not the trans. Again - these sellers have no magic sauce for parts support. So the parts from any JDM are the same. And eBay has fairly strict policies that make it really hard (or dumb) to hose a customer. They're working on volume pricing with these Subaru trans and aren't going to suffer a poor review. I think the majority of my JDM engines/trans have been ebay purchases. Most of these companies on ebay you can look up their direct website too - that might give you a better idea for buying from them and see their other options (though that's probably not needed on a 4EAT).

I can't comment on engineered stuff, we don't have any of those regulations. We just swap and drive. Usually you'd sell the car and get what you want unless there's a significantly compelling reason to keep this one. To swap you need: The bare minimum you need to get it drivable: Transmission, flywheel, transmission linkage/shifter, clutch cable, pedal assembly, driveshaft, and rear differential (with matching trans final drive ratio of 4.11). And you need to do some minor wiring work to get the reverse lights to work. Then to finish it off you need the center console, instrument cluster, and cruise control computer (if equipped and you want that to work). And maybe the master cylinder/hill holder components if you want them to operate normally. Most people would install a new clutch so you're not doing the trans pull again later - that requires a clutch kit and to resurface the fly wheel. It's a lot of parts and a lot of work. But it's not "hard", it's just a lot. The transmission assembly is big and bulky but otherwise straight forward, the pedal assemblies suck to remove.

Thats a good price and tells you how low demand is for that trans to be that cheap. When transmissions are in high demand (ie: fail a lot), they are not that cheap on a high value car like yours. That’s good they’re trying to diagnose it - this isn’t common. Its probably the front differential or associated front diff bearings. That can be repaired but one bearing alone is $100 and the ring and pinion set is $600-$1,000. Add labor to address those parts, and pull and remove the trans, - and it’s well over used price.

Edit for AT instead of MT 4EATs are fantastically reliable - I wouldn’t hesitate a second to install a used 4EAT.

Awesome. That’s fantastic to hear. Good job being patient and giving them a chance to do what they’re good at (well, the second time anyway). Thanks for replying back. These situations can be trying so I understand when people ask for help then disappear and never report back what happens. That’s also slightly an eye roll on our end, thanks for giving us the final chapter. Very cool to see it wrapped up.

Crack I forgot this - yes, this is the way to remove this.

You’re welcome. Good luck, hope that shaft takes care of the issues.

Yours is definitely a 4 speed automatic. All 1990-2009 4 cylinder Subaru Legacy outback Forester Impreza non turbo (and most or all turbos) automatics are the same 4EAT (4 speed) automatic trans. Though there were a few minor changes over the years.

Good grief. What a mess. sounds like it’s all sorted now? I do have my engine blocked up and tilted back that’s the annoying part. Have no idea how many Subaru ATs I’ve pulled but this H6 is being a dork.

Nice work! You cranked that right out and in! Give me a tip - my 02 OB AT doesn’t want to mate up to the (tilted and slightly lifted) engine properly!?

These don’t have a washer under the bolts in stock form. (Or my memory is off or all the ones I’ve worked on were missing). This makes me wonder why those washers were added and if a previous owner was chasing an issue? Is there any chance the bolt is not tightening enough? I mean I see you’re posting torque values. You’re sure he’s reaching and keeping that value? You’re sure the threads have never been stripped? These threads are prone to strip and with washers under the head there will be less thread engagement than normal. These don’t have a washer under the bolt head in stock form. I’ve repaired a few of those threads with thread repair inserts or longer bolts and a tap.

Yes related to oil control ring diagnosis and warranty determination by the dealer. I meant to diagnose rings and/or possible warranty coverage the dealer does an oil consumption test and if it fails and is still under warranty you get a new block installed under warranty. 100,000 miles warranty I believe, I’ve seen them honor it last that mark so it’s worth asking. I was describing the test they do for oil consumption and determining if they’ll warranty the block: change oil, mark it so it’s tamper proof and you bring it back later for them to see how much oil it’s using. If it fails and they can and are willing to bill it out - you get a new Subaru engine block. so yes it’s “related to the oil control rings” - that’s Subarus test and process for warranty determination. by “annoying for her” I just meant she’s rural all getting that test done and taking it back to a Subaru dealer could be annoying. You’re 3,000 miles past warranty and getting a brand new free Subaru block which is an amazing deal. I’d get it to a dealer immediately. Yes oil control ring is on the piston. So yes it’s a piston ring job.

I put tension on the cam to pull the belt tight - and then button it all up while keeping the belt tight. Maybe it’s routing or where I check it or apples to oranges but the passengers side seems like it’s usually looser than the drivers side.

Ahhh that’s like a repeat of my Northern return fiasco driving back from New Hampshire with horrific vibrations as I nervously drove home with your offer of assistance. Oddly nothing came of that and I made it home fine. I replaced the driveshaft in a junk yard in New Hampshire or Mass or something. Didn’t help. I can’t even recall what I did when I got home - I think new tires and a bushing or two. maybe you’ll get lucky and find something else that’s a little simpler…but that’s not sounding good. Front diff? Seems unlikely but Could it be an axle?

Im with Numbchux, good point I didn’t specify. Id attempt some kind of keyway repair or custom fit if the timing sprocket keyway was completely useless and didn’t fix the timing sprockets. The balancer I don’t care about. It’s benign and orientation doesn’t matter. Eyeball it and tighten. In this case it looks very likely that only the harmonic balancer was impacted and Not the sprocket keyways. I’m assuming theres residual key to locate and fix the timing sprockets in place and only the end of the key where the balancer slide over may not have any useable key.

those are the ticket. Machinist grade left handed drill bit. Try to keep oil on the cutting tip of the bit. Anything to help disperse heat and lubricate as odd as that sounds for cutting. I grab whatever ATF or power steering fluid on the shelf I’ll never need and use that. I wasn’t thinking though - That plug is huge. Drill bit might not be my first pick. it’s not likely going to work. It’ll just drill a hole. Ideally you want the bit to be just under the diameter of the fastener to maximize heat and torque. I doubt you’ll have a bit that big and end up just drilling a hole. I think this will be more of a - drill 21 different holes until it falls to pieces scenario. impact would be ideal. Cut a V shape into the side of the rounded out hex of the plug. Get a cold chisel and wail on the side of that V in the “loosening” direction. (Make your V so it allows this loosening impact to be as Much in the loosening direction as possible). Pound with a heavy hammer. Ive done this numerous times and the “impact” is extremely helpful to loosen stuff like this. I nearly guarantee it’ll work BUT i don’t know if it’ll damage anything else close to the block in that area. I don’t think there’s anything sticking out or vulnerable to impact or leverage there but I’d rather see what you’re working with first before saying. I would avoid removal tools at all costs. I don’t even own them anymore. I threw them all away. They’re great tools for low grade bicycles or house work, and in a machine shop with controlled perpendicular application of forces, no impact at all. That’s just not practical in difficult motor or rusty car work and they’re prone to break. Anything that comes off with one of those extractors I guarantee it’ll come out with drilling, chiseling or another method. If extractors break - which they often do in at home engine or rusty car work - then you can be in a world of annoyance removing those hardened broken tools.

Oh and sorry for the mess. That’s gotta be a horrid experience after that time, effort, and outlay for a new to you car and service. It sounds like they forgot to add the diff oil after draining it, but online, can’t see the car, with nothing but circumstantial evidence isn’t exactly proof or scientific.

Good due dilligence on your part. No need to plan for war or assume mischief. Give them a chance to comment and respond. They have plenty of horrid demanding entitled customers, not a bad idea to avoid sounding like them. The easiest way to do this is to simply check the gear oil immediately yourself (or friend coworker neighbor), take a video of it. Hear the dealers response to the low oil over the phone and go from there.

Check fluid levels. Engine oil. Front diff. Trans. No diff oil seems likely. Maybe leaked or forgot to top off. I’d diagnose it first before driving it anywhere. Then call them and tell them. Left them tow it and deal with it. And of course it could be coincidence and anecdotal. It’s not a shock to buy a used car and have issues soon that the previous owner was trying to get away from.

Oil control rings. Subaru may have an extended 100,000 mile warranty (with additional time constraint) for that. Annoying in her situation but they change the oil, make it tamper proof then you bring it back later and they check level. You get a new Subaru short block. It was traded or sold by previous owner for this oil loss issue. So she’s stuck with someone else’s problems.

Oh wow that’s rough. Drill it out. Dremel. Heating with a torch might help but don’t heat the block too much. An alternate solution if you think it’ll be hard to remove is to drill a hole, tap it, and thread a nipple the same size as the cooler hose. Not sure where you’d find an appropriate nipple with threads. Could potentially make your own with a die.

Avoid rust. Use 6 pt wrenches and socket not 12. Use the right tool for the job. Follow the FSM and ask supporting questions to what you see there. They’re available free online for older models.