idosubaru

subaru steering rack failures are almost unheard of. they sometimes leak out the output shaft seals but that's even rare. possible, but rare. the steering rack ujoints can get rusty and bind, that might be popping. it's between the steering wheel and steering rack inside the engine bay, under the master cylinder. the steering rack bushings also get tired and will create enough slop for the rack to shift under loading...maybe creating that thunk. they can also cause a slight delay in steering....turn left...and you feel a very brief lull as the rack shifts, squishes the old tired loose bushing...and then catches.

NASIOC has gobs of turbo related information and builds. yes there are lots of options for building these motors, yo'ull have to decide what you want to get into like Uberoo just said....stock HP boosted...or rebuild with beefed up rods, pistons...heads....$$$$ nasioc will have lots of info on that. should be running full synthetic and changing the oil often. these motors have issues with conventional oil.

a $25 15 minute fix is not what you wanted to hear? i'd be hoping it's the ECU and not some wonky wiring, prior shady work, water infiltration related degrading wiring that crops up later too....ECU's are cheap and easy. this is an easy fix. post in the parts wanted forum. i even have one, but someone else will have more time. crawlerdan is parting out a 99 OBW: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137973-parting-out-99-obw/ this yard in PA has them for $35 each, 1-814-635-3203

i doubt it. often when an engine is pulled, coolant dribbles everywhere and could follow that seam. could be dirt, animal or mud dauber nest debris....who knows. what's it's history, how long and where was it stored? EJ22's don't have headgasket issues so if the HG's are bad it would have needed to be previously overheated or otherwise abused. if it was a known good engine out of a previously running vehicle or wreck it's probably fine. if it's a craigslist special then i'd be more suspicious. the early EJ22 headgaskets are unbelievaably easy to do - the headbolts are all external, don't even need to remove the valve covers to do them. unbolt head, resurface (yourself via instructions here) and reinstall. really easy.

oh, and VDC models have side impact air bags and the "exploding" one-time use seat belts. if you install non-side-airbag seats then all of that, including the front air bags, will be disabled. my guess is you don't care about that either, but now you know. could probably swap in a non-side air bag SRS computer and retain your front air bag mechanisms. you make a couple comments about gray cloth interior as if that's crucial...explain so we're on the same page? you require that or need to swap a certain one in... i thought all VDC's are leather...actually i thought all 02-04 H6's were leather, but that's easily discernable on cars101. mine are tan and black leather and all my friends are one of those as well. i looked for a set for the XT6 (just for the electric functions) and couldn't find any gray ones, ended up getting a tan set and never installed them.

2001's have a VDC OFF switch, seems like the 4WD should still operate in some capacity, if not fully? check the owners manual for the VDC switch section of a 2001? my guess is you can do some simple wiring of a 2002-2004 to mimic the 2001 operation or simply swap a 2001 ECU into a 2002-2004. haven't looked into the VTD but seems like option should exist to splice into the wiring and control the 4WD yourself as folks have done either with the duty C or presslab dialing it in his more sophisticated set up. won't take you long to figure out if that's an option...someone will pipe up and you're more versed in wiring/trans than me. for the ones i've seen - disabling ABS disabled the VDC. not sure if there's other modes where the ABS can be disabled and retain VDC, my guess is no. swap an H6 into the car you just got and use the EJ25 to flip another one? sounds like you're bent on not running with VDC, and i think you're right on target, i think you'd thoroughly hate it. it's most noticable response is cutting throttle immediately so you have no throttle control...i dislike it when it does it on the back, unmarked, gravel-ish back roads i drive everyday. it does seem mildly helpful in some really bad traction situations with the immediate engine braking. but i still think you'd hate it.

i've worked on a zillion bad CTS connections. when you change the connector, be sure to cut the wiring harness back and make sure the wiring isn't shot. i've seen a couple with such bad green corroded wiring nastiness that i had to simply run new wire back to the engine harness connectors. just figure out which pin it is and splice new wire in - sometimes much simple and avoids the issue again. i have also soldered the wires directly to the CTS connetors if you don't want to mess with finding a clip on plastic connector to fit. if it's a threaded in type CTS then you need to be able to turn it though so you solder the wire to the CTS then have a basic electrical connector on the other end so you can disconnect it. CTS - soldered to wire - a few inches of wire - electrical connector..... then electrical connector on the intake manifold side to plug into.

ever had water in the passengers side floorboard? that's where the ECU and wiring are. and sometimes drains for the HVAC can leak into the cabin there, though i've never seen/heard of those that leak having ECU issues. if an O2 sensor was failing i would think it would set a check engine light? i've seen compromised O2 (and other) sensors *not* set a check engine light. the way it's failing isn't within the confines of what the ECU is looking at/for, so it doesn't see anything at all out of the ordinary. if it's out of range for some reason that's causing the ECU glitches, like in your case, seems like it should trigger a check engine light. that being said - you've obviously got a rare, non-traditional failure or symptom going on here. the sad part is that we are positive on one thing -that it's something very simple. tracking that something simple down may prove difficult. ECU's are worthless since they almost never fail and they're super easy to swap out, i think i'd swap in another 97-99 EJ25D ECU. someone on here no doubt has one. only one i have is 96 EJ25D and it will work just fine on yours but 96's already have readiness monitor issues and are exempt from emissions in that regard, but that wouldn't jive with emissions for a 99 vehicle.

great, i'll get some. not sure what you mean about "holes in the unibody"......hopefully they're not rust holes yet LOL

yes sir dave - my other daily driver has through bolts on both sides. but i'd have to use a smaller bolt to fit or drill out the threads....was hoping to keep it the same size...seems more robust but probably doesn't matter. drilling i guess isn't a big deal since they're stripped but was hoping to just leave it as is.....actually if i'm going to drill it i might as well helicoil it maybe that would be far simpler and i probably have them already. john - the bolt isn't too long, the pinch bolts threads are stripped so i need it longer so i can put a nut on it. i need it longer but ALL long M10 x 1.25 bolts have a unthreaded portion that bottoms out too soon on the threads...i guess it's hard to explain/see it without seeing it. they make "tap bolts" which are threaded the entire shank but they don't carry them over 2" and it needs to be longer than that to get a nut on the end.

grainger, fastenal...nowhere seems to even carry 80mm long (enough to go through the knuckle and receive a nut), tap bolt (a bolt with threads the entire length).

if i replace it with a longer bolt, it won't "clamp" in the same way since it'll be threaded into the knuckle right? can i use a bolt that's threaded the entire length? the longer bolts with unthreaded shanks (which seems to be most bolts available locally) bottom out against the threads in the knuckle. i know i can use a smaller bolt and just run it through to clamp it - part of me likes using something the full diameter though.....?

mine just broke on my 2003 H6...what is this repair you speak of? something like this?: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/3A-Racing-1-3-4-in-exhaust-split-flange/_/N-25vz?itemIdentifier=110785&_requestid=765210 do you know what size the H6 needed back at that rear flange? second rust related repair you've helped me with in a couple weeks! your rust must be just a bit ahead of ours down here, LOL.

***WOAH, slow down - this is all wrong. return the converter. FIX THESE TWO CODES FIRST: PO106 Manifold absolute pressure performance P1143 Manufacturer controlled fuel and air metering Once those are fixed - there's a high chance the P0420 code will go away. They may be causing the P0420 code. And you very well may get the P0420 even with a new converter if your fueling/manifold pressure data is compromised. i'd return the cheap aftermarket if you can - it's likely to throw a code now or in a year anyway. they're far inferior in quality from the subaru unit. and as JCE just mentioned it's not your catalytic converter, it is fine. there's a $5 fix for it as well, remove the rear oxygen sensor, install this spacer and then reinstall the oxygen sensor, it's done all the time: http://www.ebay.com/itm/O2-oxygen-sensor-test-pipe-extension-extender-spacer-M18-X-1-5-2-/170997840141?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item27d043f90d&vxp=mtr as a matter of fact - i'm not just saying that - i'll buy it from you because I know it's not bad. PM me and i'll paypal or mail payment. unfortunately you won't find a mechanic to properly diagnose the P0420 issue. it's easier for them to charge $100's of dollars to consumers that don't know anything. if you want to see what an experienced Subaru mechanic that owns/works in a shop does with P0420, here's how it's done: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/49537-p0420-diag.html

there is no need to swap the ECU. you only need the EJ25 exhaust manifold and flexplate to do the swap. there are cases where the timing marks differ - there are two styles but one is very rare, so most are all the same. it only happens around 99 - 01 model years...or so i've seen. if they're different, differing number of triggers, you simply swap the crank sprocket and drivers side cam sprocket from the original engine onto the new engine. that being said - it makes sense and may be the case that swapping the ECU is also a work around for that same issue - but it's not anything to do with speed density related and in general if yo'ure swapping a motor you always have what you need for the swap so swapping the ECu isn't the typical solution. OBS has 4.11. The only impreza non-turbo auto that got a 4.44 was the RS.

doesn't sound like a big deal but it should be easy enough to cover up if you wanted. make a metal plate and bolt it over the hole with RTV on the plate, that should seal it up? or find someone parting one out and have them send you the ABS sensor, they're worthless as they're never sold. i'd say give me $3 and i'd ship it to you if i had one. if you don't want ABS just cut the wire off and bolt it in place.

it is a weak spot - the flanges in general, the rear one too. if they cut off all rust and weld properly it should hold for a long time. oh and hello, we're not too far apart! the carpeting in the mall there is interesting! may want to measure the pipe and make sure they have the proper diameter in stock, i've seen multiple times where the welded in section is the wrong size...once on an H6 exhaust, not sure if it's an uncommon size or what but be nice to not have a reducer welded in place, that's kind of silly.

i'd just drive it, EJ22's are such great motors and non-turbo performance upgrades so miniscule, they're hardly worth messing with. i don't care about 20 hp....if i'm thinking power, i want a car that's actually fast and it's going to be forced induction, but you sound more interested in a few more horsepower..... To clarify your comments about EJ22/EJ25 Phase II intake manifolds: Phase II EJ22's are interchangeable with SOHC EJ25's by simply swapping the intake manifold. More specifically: 1999-2001 EJ22 intake manifolds will bolt up to: 1999 Forester & Impreza EJ25's All 2000+ EJ25's If you want an EJ25 that's simple to swap, the easiest way is to get a 1999 or later OBS (Outback Sport) so you can use the better EJ25 with lesser headgasket issues and avoid the prior overheat conundrum and rod bearing eating EJ25D.

*** No discussion or comments, goal is one thread with A/C oring sizes compiled for easy access. I'll edit this thread with any updates as long as I'm allowed. The compressor orings are notorious for degrading faster than the others, they are usually hard/brittle and the rest in the system are still fine. I've never seen the other orings be that way so they're not that important but list them if you do them. Year, Model, Engine, A/C compressor brand: 1999 Impreza 2.2, ZEXEL: Compressor: 17.8mm x 2.5mm Compressor: 10.8mm x 2.4mm Drivers side condensor: 10.8mm x 2.4mm 2003 3.0 H6 OBW (stock OEM compressor) Top-rear Compressor: 17.8mm x 2.5mm Left ('high') side Compressor: 10.8mm x 2.4mm

that's a complete front end timing kit job - excellent and it's good for 100,000 miles from when that was done. i'd change the ATF, front diff, and rear diff oil (though the front is far more important). spark plugs and wires. i wouldn't worry about alternator until much later, 120k and this new is still really new. i start thinking about replacement closer to 200k than 100k or by age if it's an 80's or 90's. there's hardly any other preventative maintenance that needs done, you can replace as you see fit - struts, suspension won't cause you any failure, breakdown, or major issue.

have an exhaust shop cut/grind the rust off and weld a new piece of pipe in place. rust is so common around here it's done all the time. shops charge $40 - $70 to do it, takes them no time at all and parts are just a short section of cheap pipe. trick is finding an honest shop that won't try and replace all the bits with new part$$$ for much more money. my daily driver for 80,000 miles has had the front pipes cut out and straight pipe welded in place (so mine has no front pre-converters like the OBX) and no issues. i have a P0420 engine code but it dosn't matter in this state and i'm not sure what it's from, since that code is so common i can't say for sure that it's caused by the header or not at it's current 213,000 miles. i'd run the OBX if i needed a header though, they're not that expensive. i've looked before too and haven't found many references or users that have them. i think there are some youtube videos of folks with custom exhaust/headers but not sure how much detail they share, i haven't watched.

is the drivetrain binding at all.....carrier bearing in the driveshaft...but i'd certainly expect noise if it was that bad. sounds like something odd with the clutch/hub/drum set up in the rear extension housing but hopefully not....

you sure it's leaking? i wonder i the timing cases are leaking at all...it's fairly rare and they only leak on the bottom. i wonder the passengers side is just power steering fluid leak, that does not look like an oil leak to me. and the drivers side could just be people dumping the 5 quart jugs all over the place and missing the oil fill tube over the past 10 years? if you've never heard it run, then be sure to check the timing chain guides really well while it's apart, some of the early 01/02's...maybe others, have chain noise due to guides. not a big deal but it's loud and while you're there be good to check them.

i would look for the timing chain/case threads over on subaruoutback.org. excellent pictures and descriptions and pictures buy a couple folks over there that have done it. and get a factory service manual or at least the section for the timing chain cover. there are a few orings for the timing cases and some of those 50 i think are different lengths. nutty stuff.

excellent, thanks.