idosubaru

if you've been driving it for a long time and suspect it's in good condition i wouldn't worry about it. they generally don't blow headgaskets if they're not overheated...of course you probably don't know the full history of the motor so that's ambiguous no matter what to some degree. i wouldn't do them unless i was wanting at least another 100,000 miles out of the car. for 10k or small change like that, probably not if it has a decent relatively lengthy history since you've had it. if you do go ahead and do it, i always do these in the car, they're too easy not too. i even do the XT6 6 cylinders which are essentially the same engines in the car, they're tighter but still easier in the car. i can have the heads popping off by the time the engine is coming out. with air tools doing it in the car is a breeze. cleaning is a big time sucker, parts cleaners or having a machine shop do that is helpful. drill with one of those yellow rubber aluminum attachments for cleaning, etc. you know what you're doing so you don't need pointers there. use Subaru intake manifold gaskets, some of the aftermarkets are cheap, looks like cereal boxes were cut up. myself and many others prefer the Fel Pro PT headgaskets that are designed to not be retorqued, saves that hassle and you've got years (or decades) of experiential evidence that they're a great fit for this engine. mitzpah engineering rebuilds yours for $3 each or sells you theirs for $5 each rebuilt HLA's. ebay timing belt kits are great - $80 for all new pulleys and tensioners.

yes you did it right with the motor mounts, just remove those 14mm nuts from the crossmember. i think the rear motor mount bolt is inaccessible with the motor in the car - it's between the engine and crossmember and hidden particularyl on the drivers side by the powersteering input shaft. but nonetheless you did the right way, motor mounts always stay on the engine unless there's a compelling reason to remove them. something is keeping the engine from going up - the engine mount studs should come all the way up and out of the crossmember. exhaust still attached? XT6's have a front motor mount too - but i think EA82's don't have that right? try jacking or pulling the motor up, maybe you're pushing too centrally and it's tilting "forward" so to speak while you go up, limiting your range?

Gloyale has a great thread on splitting a MT open and replace that bearing i think. pictures and all - matt (subeman90_ was just asking about internal trans picks this week or last and i posted a link to it. nice thread. i have an XT6 that might have a bad bearing to so i might be doing the same thing next summer. probably the same amount of time as sourcing another trans, doing the swap, storing it, sending it to the junk yard, etc.

weird since others aren't posting similar stuff happening. the junk clogging up the sensors sounds plausible, i've seen it before on ABS sensors, metallic stuff all stuck on the end. and ice/snow can pack into wheel wells inches thick if the conditions are right. clean it off and good to go.

the pads are hanging and not clamping on the rotor. caused byon e of two things: 1. seized slide pins 2. pads rusted into the clips if more than one of the four (two on each side) surfaces look like this then it's likely the slide pins just aren't moving and allowing the pads to clamp. if you're lucky you just pull them out and regrease them. if they're really bad they might not come out and need a torch to replace or just replace the entire bracket with one that has good pins in it. on your existing (if possible) or the new/used bracket and pins - removing them, clean them up good, and regrease them with brake caliper lube. about the only for sure way to get this job done in limited space/time is to get a set of used or new brackets with pins already in them in case yours are seized. they're really not worth much so if you can find someone that has them buy them just in case. or you can simply go in, remove the caliper and see if the pins will all come out before trying to tackle the job or if you'll need torch/new pins and bracket. i just ran into this this week on a friends 2004 buick - front caliper pins was seized. hammering wouldn't even budge it - it was rust welded into place. had to order in a new bracket, put the car back together, and wait a day...box didn't have bracket...had to wait another day...and finished the job today. pretty common around here to see seized pins. have the rotors turned, cheaper and probably higher quality metal than a parts store replacement.

SJR blocks going on an XT6 with coil overs. XT6 struts are identical to EJ front struts with the two lower mounting bolt holes in the strut. It's easy on normal XT6's with air suspension, install them with the air bags deflated and there's minimal wrestling with the internal damping mechanism. On these coil over struts though it's not even close to the hub mounting points with the 2" block installed, nowhere near able to push the hub/control arm low enough to insert the strut bolts.

+1, have a shop reinstall the tire with new valve stem. that being said, the wheel type or orientation does not matter at all.

+1 it's all but impossible to get rid of the light, i'm not even sure how to do it. i've asked and searched multiple times and so far no one knows how to do it. i swapped a non-EGR motor into mine as it doesn't matter in my state and i like the idea of fewer parts. here's the fun part: i installed a non-EGR intake with engine harness and a computer from a non-EGR vehicle and cut the EGR wires to the ECU....still get an EGR related check engine light.

remove the lower idler pulley on the passengers side, the one that's below the belt. install the belt with that removed, then it'll bolt in place once the belt it on. i install the crank and drivers side first, having a helper hold the belt on the drivers side cam makes it a cinch but it's easy to do yourself too once you get it down, then wrap the passengers side, and do the lower toothed idler last. it's a little tight but goes in a matter of seconds.

timing belt and clutch are two likely reasons for it to be there. check or drain the oil from the trans - if it looks normal i'd assume it's good. guess it depends on area, in some areas - like Maryland DC/metro suburbs area, that isn't worth more than scrap, most of them went to yard years ago there. other areas they rust away so fast the market for 80's vehicles is small. out west the thing might be worth a lot. but it's likely any costly repair, even if it's rather simple could send it heading for the yards.

that's pretty typical for them to have a tiny bit of play. i think the rust builds up "around" the ebrake shoes and boxes it in so to speak, so you can wiggle it back and forth as it runs into rust ridges, etc and breaks it down, etc until with enough time/effort it pushes through it.

awesome, easy fixes are awesome. no rear diff issues, that's good news. that's why it was my first guess. there's likely some rust ridges and what not up around those brake shoes for the ebrake. like the part of the rotor that isnt' connected to the shoes, it'll continue to rust around and right up to the shoes as there's nothing thtere to "clean" them so to speak. thsoe inner brake shoes aren't really accessible much by spraying off with a hose, they're inside the rotor if you know what i mean. not a good set up for getting salt water on them.

i just have a straight draw bar, nothing fancy. ROFL! that's what i have a RWD 6 cylinder Ford F150! gutless but it's a nice motor. i could use one on my wife's 02 OBW, how much you want for it? it'll tow all that stuff easy, you'll barely notice it.

Gloyale has some nice pic's in his thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=121963&highlight=transmission+bearing+replacement http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90182&highlight=transmission+bearing+replacement

359,000 miles and broken rocker arms in the oil pan - wow this thing has seen it all, i'd say lots of things are possible then. since it ran fine before the job i would think one of the rocker arms fell off or is not seated properly. a bad HLA is possible. the valve covers are actually really easy to remove without any engine lifting, etc. a 10mm ratcheting wrench makes it a much simpler job actually. the drivers side is the hardest one though. good luck

i turned a rear EJ automatic by hand a week ago, but i feel like i've had some before that would not turn if only one wheel was off the ground? seems like it wouldn't happen that quick but i'd still be curious if rust built up enough to prevent the ebrakes from clearing and they're keeping it from turning. i saw one legacy locked up in the rear due to rusting while it sat and i never looked at it before they got rid of it so i'm not sure what caused it. could the rear diff have filled with water? is this an open rear diff or VLSD? rear diff is definitely something that affects both sides so that's a good place to look if they are locked.

i might be up for trying this. i got used heads for the original vehicle of this thread but just got another 99 EJ22 with bent valves i'm working on with a friend. is it possible to test the valve seating prior to reassembling to make sure it's good? did you replace the valve and valve stem seal, anything else? found another thread on nasioc with a youtube link: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1733277

you're a hundred times better at elecrical than me chux but i'll mentally vomit and maybe it'll help. 18Volts is not right so are you suspicious of the alt or the gauge itself (you seem to suggest you believe the 18V to be accurate)? would engine off voltage at battery terminals compared to engine on voltage at battery terminals tell anything? if voltage is the same then maybe there's resistance in one of those lines?

nice work cranking out your first engine pull and head job! did you replace with proper metal reinforced orings or just regular orings? while nice and a worthy goal, HLA location isn't a big deal, and would be more on the OCD perfectionistic continuum. i've mixed and matched, replaced bad ones with used ones, swapped arms, HLA's, etc and never had an issue, they'll pump up and do what they're supposed to do, they're not all that technical if everything is working properly. how long has it been running? these things can be thunderously noisy for quite some time when the heads have been off while the HLA's are pumping up and seating fully. might just have an offseated rocker arm. pull a valve cover and it might be really obvious with a misseated/fallen rocker arm, collapsed HLA, etc. if you're still scratching your head then give us: how many miles? how long did it sit non-operational? how long was it driven with bad headgaskets? the only case of seized lifters i've seen was passengers side on an ER27 (same exact HLA's and rocker arms as the EA82) that was driven a long time on failed headgaskets. had two HLA's that would not collapse even in a vice, i through them in the trash. they were very noisy. i guess i'm not certain but i'm assuming the seizing had something to do with the heat and/or coolant/water mixing with oil.

here's a 1995 Legacy Factory Service Manual wiring diagram for the TCU and the connector. double check but i'm seeing: "WB" for color. pin B3 on the TCU and pin 11 on the connector.

could it be the emergency brake sticking, misadjusted, or (around here lol!) rusted? that seems most likely. if you really suspect the rear diff - drain the fluid and inspect carefully for chunks/metal etc. i doubt it's your rear diff, but boards like this do bring all sorts of crazy things! rear diff failures are very rare and i wouldn't expect this without some kind of prior signs, noises, etc. a failing front or rear diff that doesn't make noise would be surprising to me. auto/manual? year/miles? when spinning the wheels did you: did you jack the entire car off the gound? or just two wheels off the ground - if so which two? it was running perfectly fine with zero issues ever yesterday, then you parked it and it wouldn't move?

the connector is not installed in the sedan versions, only outbacks. i just went through this on my 2003 Outback Sedan H6. it already had a hitch when i got it but i wanted a wiring harness too, but nothing there. i checked and got nothing and saw information suggesting sedans did not get it. i guess we'll have to get a generic and wire it in yourself. i just picked up a 1999 Subaru the other day with my 2003, picture attached. i wouldn't recommend it but it was close to home and not that far, one time deal, etc. brakes, engine, and trans did better than i thought they would, handling did worse than i thought, it wouldn't take much to loose control back there with the light weight in the back. but i was driving a lot of steep up and down mountain twistys so i was feeling it a lot more there than on the straight flat parts. if you're towing all flat land you'd hardly notice anything except pushing while braking/correcting/emergency move (not a fun feeling). i've towed all sorts of other stuff too, the sedan will tow a small trailer just fine. the more often and heavier loads you'll be doing the more you'll want to err on the side of caution. there's no black/white or yes/no, or can/cannot do about towing. i tow a lot and have a truck for that (usually!), no way i'd want to carry those kinds of loads regularly.

agreed, or post pictures. your descriptions sound way worse than how you seem to be interpreting the situation so i'm confused. if the spring and ball came out via the engine side of the pump then something is seriously wrong, this isn't just a simple gasket thing or tweak or alignment - something has failed unless i'm missing something.

thanks for the follow up and good work figuring it out! oh is that like a newer style shaft or something? the shafts i'm used to just have 4 bolts (like the ones attached to the rear diff) holding the front and rear halves of the driveshaft together. unbolt the rear half and the front just stays in place with the carrier bearing. yours sounds like a different style. since it had a joint of some sort it had to still have that middle mounting point. my guess is that's the same location as the older style carrier bearing two pieced driveshaft and you could also just buy that older style front driveshaft and bolt it in place. the transmissions are definitely interchangeable so that end sliding into the trans would be the same.

if it just fell out then it's probably broken and you need a new oil pump unless you dare try to repair it. the spring and ball should not come out of the opening it sits inside of in the oil pump. i've seen the lips of that opening crack and allow the spring and ball to come out. you didn't say you attempted to disassemble, just that it "fell out" that implies to me that this is what happened. ironically i saw that only on a brand new pump that had very low miles on it. you'd have to repair that for it to retain the ball and spring again. probably simpler to replace but i suppose you could try welding a washer or bead around it to repair....just don't weld the ball in place and be careful as all that heat will probably easily warp the thin oil pump housing structure - making sealing the mickey mouse gasket which is already problematic not any easier.