idosubaru

yes

throttle cable or plate sticking?

engine is easier. pulling the trans *can* be really fast because there's not much to it, far less to do than pulling an engine, but it is totally annoying wrestling with that thing under the car, spilling fluid, and reinstalling.

awesome, report back what happens. it confused me for awhile as i didn't have bounce/return, noise, or leakage of the struts which i thought were indicators of a weak strut. but others were having it too so i'm assuming that's what is up with mine. at 180,000 miles and rough roads, they're due at least some people are posting, and i'm not going to be surprised if this happens to me - that the car gains a little "lift" with new struts on it - mine *seems* lower. mine doesn't feel as solid around turns/cornering as my other subaru's (i've got a few), so i'm wondering if struts will help that too. but it might just be the H6 wagon and twisty steep mountain roads i drive, they're not normal. i got KYB GR2's off thepartsbin or advanced auto for like $52 online.

lots of threads (HA HA HA ) on here about this, but probably simpler to google it. the thread repair kits will say what size drill bit you need on the package - so you can read it when you pick it up at the store or google the helicoil or timeserts and find it out in the jiffy that way too. the repair kits come with the tap, so i'm not sure how you're planning to repair this, i assumed you were talking about thread repair kits like helicoil/timeserts? if that's the case you'll just need a proper size drill bit and the kit with the tap and inserts. you can use allthread too, as some folks have done to avoid the drilling/repair kit costs, there are threads on here about folks that have done that.

mine was off a 2000 forester and is now sold (someone saw this thread LOL). have no idea what they came on but H6's have them too.

that's a good point, i wouldn't want the extra travel for the oil. some EJ25's came with an oil cooler that the oil filter piggy backs onto. screw it on to where the oil filter goes then the oil filter goes on top of it. it has a coolant supply that comes from the water pump i think, so you might need a certain style water pump...or pull coolant from elsewhere, i forget how they work (eventhough i just removed one a month ago!) $25 and i'll send you the one i have.

if it's pulling to the left then like he said and alignment sounds in order. the scalloping, uneven balding, if that's what you have - is often caused by struts. i have scalloping on my rear tire of my OBW and wasn't sure for a long time what was causing it. struts *appear* fine, but i have ordered new rear struts for it based on reading/talking to people. i would suspect the struts....they don't need to be leaking or fail a bounce test to be old and warn out. i ran across some other folks that had bad struts with none of those "typical" signs. upon removal they say they won't have much spring or extension to them.

properly serviced it's not an issue. spend the extra coin in a complete timing kit (belt, pulleys, and tensioner). all EJ25's are interference. 1996+ EJ18's were never interference. offered until around 97 or 98. EJ22's are interference around 1997 and up but i've seen conflicting information on that. EA82, EA82T, and ER27's of the late 80's and early 90's are not interference. these are found in older generation stuff, XT6's, loyale's, GL's, etc.

the 6 cylinder models since 2001 don't have belts either, they have timing chains.

you can. make sure the radiator is cooler than the oil. not much to gain unless you're racing, towing, adding forced induction, hardcore offroad, etc.

02 impreza = 3.9 OBW = 4.11

auto parts stores have studs that will work in Subaru's - you have to match it/find it yourself though - the listings/computers won't show it. the ones the store i used to go to had would have a small unthreaded section on it, leaving one threaded section shorter than the other. you thread the SHORTEST side into the block first so that the longer side gives full thread exposure to the nut. if you do it the other way the nut runs into the unthreaded section. install the short side first and the threaded section is covered up by the flange. it's really simple when you see it.

these motors loose coolant, oil, overheat, and blow gaskets/hoses a lot. their concern is they don't want to charge you $150 only to find the car is still overheating/problematic. might want to get a second opinion - maybe a member here familiar with EA82T's could help? it's very helpful to have some EA82 specific experience on this motor. if you have a visual external leak, yeah that needs to be fixed. i'd replace every hose/gasket you can between the turbo and the engine, i would not just replace one thing. at 25 years old and all the heat a turbo generates it's usually best to replace hoses/clamps/gaskets all at once on these things. this motor does blow headgaskets and crack heads quickly if overheated...but they shouldn't "randomly" blow a headgasket too often and if it was previously perfectly fine and wasn't run into the red it should be fine.

Subaru FSM is showing a 5 pole black connector for the rear wiper relay. it's located in the rear passengers-side side compartment. remove the access panel from the inside there in the rear passengers side corner of the trunk and that's where the FSM seems to indicate it should be. powered via Fuse 14 only three components to the entire system and you already replaced the motor, ruling one of them out so that only leaves: 1. switch on the steering column 2. relay i thought there would be a timer somewhere, but FSM doesn't show one or i'm missing something. i've had to repair wiring in the rear hatch lift gate before too. open up your lift gate and you'll see a rubber according like conduit that wire runs through - it's what allows wiring to go from the movable hatch to the rigid body. i've removed that rubber cover to find frayed and broken wires before, might want to check there too. granted, i would expect more issues but might be worth a quick peak.

turbo rears had 3.9 VLSD's. subaru had no front diffs with LSD in those older vehicles. if you saw one, it was aftermarket or custom...and maybe that's why you had to open it up and see it, someone was in there before and hacked it up

you'll have to get the blue/orange button jobs. i have some brand new Subaru remotes for this application if you're interested let me know.

probably depends how bad the threads are, i could see that going either way. use a torque wrench and make sure it's holding proper torque. a dab of locktite (the nonpermanent kind) might be extra assurance, but i've never done it and had them hold just fine each time. i would clean the existing threads good too. helicoil is definitely the easy, best, and sure solution. rent a very skinny right angle drill (local tool rental place had a really thin one once) or find a cheap adapter for your drill (what i have now) - they can be very small and fit in tight places. then take a drill bit, put it in a vice - and (with goggles on) wail the end of it as fast as you can with a hammer - this will shatter the bit in half - they are strong but brittle so speed is key to shear it in half - making it shorter and allowing easier access up front. i've done them before without removing the engine or a/c stuff. most of my work has been with XT6's though which have more room.

there's at least one or a couple threads about it on here, including a guy that tried it. i would find that thread(s), it should be helpful and worth the time searching for it. i feel like it was even up for sale at one point because it still had issues and they wanted the right engine. there's not much info or experience because it's not a good fit or worth the time for most on something that has shorter/easier solutions, so that's why you're not getting much in the way of specifics. i would find that thread or google search, there are others out there detailing TPS issues, throttle body not interchangeable issues, cam/crank sensor/sprocket issues, power steering lines needing bent for clearance issues, etc.

do you know if it's central or outer (left, right, both?)? have someone sit in the rear compartment listen to narrow down the location. center, left, right, etc? gotcha, they were called impreza outback sports here, didn't know you were in another country. brighton is a legacy only trim here.

it's normal for the front tire to spin a little bit first before the TCU corrects it, but i'm guessing you're saying it's more than normal or something is definitely wrong? swap all the rear extension housing components from the 95 into the 99. good thing is this is a very simple swap and doesn't require removing the transmission, it can all be done from under the car. no need to swap rear diff or anything - just the rear extension housing - which is just the rear part bolted to the back of the trans. pretty easy actually as far as transmissions go.

No, it is not your differential. I agree with suzam - how many miles? Any rust? Are you in the northeast/rust area? is this an impreza or legacy brighton - i don't think there is such a thing as an impreza brighton. do you know if it has rear disc or drums (late 90's brightons had rear drums, and impreza OBS did as well). Backing plates can rub...maybe they're touching under load? Axle on exhaust? suspension is rubbing something.

the rear calipers aren't really worth much so getting a used one should be cheap and easy. probably cheaper than the helicoil/rethread kits. $25 should get you a rear caliper or bracket if that's all you need. post in the parts wanted forum, maybe someone here has one for you. you can chase the threads with a tap and die and/or get a new bolt and just chase the threads in the bracket with a tap. or helicoil/timesert it. i'd probably opt for trying to do something with the existing set up so as to avoid bleeding the brakes. although if you clamp it off and/or swap quickly/prefill the calipers i've been able to swap them out without bleeding the entire brake system. not that there's anything wrong with new fluid in all the lines, that would be most wise...it's just a lengthy process sometimes.

there's only a few parts that you'll almost definitely be able to sell immediately. 5 lug parts ($150-$300), dash trim ($50), steering column surround ($50) , and radiator ($75) if it's good. i've owned like 20 XT6's and parted a bunch, they're not really worth parting out IMO. subaruxt.com is an XT6 dedicated site, you'll see me over there. everything else will just depend on current needs of the very, very small XT6 community. not sure where $300-$500 scrap comes from, you might want to find out where he's talking about becausethat's not what i've seen locally or with a quick search of iowa scrap prices which look similar to here. $7/100 gives you $100-$200 depending how much you're removing weight wise. i tend to get a little over $100 for a scrap car - usually they have an engine/trans or both removed. $185 per ton for a shell will net you $150 or so. you can make a few hundred but it takes foooorever by the time you remove parts, answering tons of questions, emails, posting, advertising, sending pictures, then more pictures, getting shipping quotes...only for 9 out of 10 people to not buy.....ends up being a lot of work. so comes down to what you're time is worth, but frankly if you can part a car you have the skills to make a lot more money than parting an XT6 out.

how does it compare to piston slap? more prominent when cold.....? what all did you do to it and why did you take it apart? i vaguely recall you working on this, but be helpful to have it all in this thread to simplify the discussion.