idosubaru

+1 subaru exhaust gaskets tend to be higher quality in EA82, ER, and EJ stuff, i wonder if EA81 Subaru gaskets may be better too?

connect the two trans lines together if fluid does move. use an old rad and cut one of the tubes off of it and put one hose on each end. i've always left the car running with the fuse installed to be sure since it all works under hydraulic pressure. theoretically i suppose with the fuse in place the solenoid may be activating as needed. if it really is just a mile, i wouldn't be too worried about it either way.

the owners manuals, from Subaru, states that "low" or near zero oil pressure is normal for operating temperature readings on the stock gauges. wonder what those with aftermarket gauges show when up to operating temp?

This hitch came off a Legacy outback but doesn't appear to fit my 1996 LSi sedan. I tried multiple times this morning and can't get it to line up anyway at all. The vertical bolt on the drivers side is "forward" of the horizontals and moved via a bracket a few inches towards center of the car. kind of bizarre. Are some hitches OBW/sedan specific? I see many are cross listed as fitting wagons and sedans, so wondering if I'm missing something? This is the hitch I ended up with that I'm trying to install on my sedan: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=98250&highlight=legacy+hitch

no kidding, isn't that crazy! nice call guys. thanks for sharing pamike, that's good to know for the future.

you misread. that $123 has nothing at all to do with aftermarket parts. he was comparing SUBARU prices to SUBARU prices. aftermarket price difference are a much wider gap, multiple hundreds of dollars difference in some cases for a total timing belt job. there's no need to debate. rarely, if ever, is one choice a good fit for everyone. the cost-effectiveness of new parts for you is different than most since you're talking about a $10,000+ 2006 vehicle. if your maintenance costs were the same percentage of value as folks with a 10 or 15 year old car - meaning it would cost you $1,000 or 2,000 or $3,000 for timing pulleys, then you (or most people in your shoes) would think differently. most people don't want to pay the exhorbitant $500+ timing belt parts job cost from Subaru. if you want to - then awesome, that is a great choice, but it's an undesirable fit for most people. i don't currently drive a 105,000 mile interval vehicle since mine is 60,000 miles or has a timing chain (H6), but if i did i would probably inspect it at 50,000 or replace early even if they were Subaru pulleys. i wouldn't trust even a Subaru pulley to 105,000 miles.

i ask dealers to match the online pricing and they do. i've done that with at least 3 dealers so far and all have obliged. actually did it last week while i was traveling out of state. needed some parts and was passing a dealer so i stopped in since the dealer close is on the other side of town. i asked and they did it. the difference is roughly 20% between online and dealers.

Gloyale is good, here's one thread he discusses it some including the dial through the drain plug hole to set the backlash: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106831&highlight=backlash&page=3

the key is setting the backlash on the front diff. normally you could entertain the idea of just retaining the backlash but since you're swapping parts you may be starting from scratch? maybe you could search for "setting backlash" or "backlash" and see what you come up with. or read through a Factory Service manual portion detailing that process. otherwise it's mostly just unbolting the front diff from the trans, that part isn't all that difficult, just a bunch of bolts and the retaining rings. i gave someone a transmission to do this job and the "new" diff only lasted a couple months before it failed again.

disconnect brake lines from MC. remove 2 nuts holding it to vehicle bleed brakes

resealing the oil pump usually fixes this. dealer seals are probably a good idea, i've had problems with aftermarket seals but not on the oil pumps. sometimes a reseal doesn't work, but replacing the oil pump will. some folks would rather be done with it and just install a new oil pump with new seals. you'll have to decide which way works best for you.

if you're positive that it's isolated to one head - or one cylinder then it's a sticking HLA. change oil frequently to make sure they stay clean. if i positively have sticking HLA's, then i add a quart or two of ATF to the oil and run that a day or week....just depends. if it's only one HLA then oil pump seals or replacing the oil pump won't likely fix it. that only works if the oil pump seals or pump itself is the cause.

thanks miles, i'll check those pressures. a little reading suggests i probably need to clean the tip. haven't figured out what to clean it with yet.

look under your engine hood, that's a spyder manifold. just looks a little different than other MPFI intakes.

is this a 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder? XT's are kind of oddballs and sometimes parts aren't always right. maybe they gave you a different FPR - like SPFI or something. EA82's came in carbs, SPFI, MPFI, turbo.... XT was MPFI and the only car to get the spyder manifold. t he 6 cylinder confuses things sometimes - 10 years ago NAPA would give you a 4 cylinder distributor cap if you ordered an XT6 - 6 cylinder distributor cap. check us out at subaruxt.com for xt specific info - we also have the subaru factory service manuals avialable for free. let me know if you have problems registering, email or PM me here, we're working through a glitch.

you don't *replace* the brackets, noone ever does that, it's just a piece of metal. you'd have to replace a lot of parts if you replaced everything that was metal on an engine. yes i think it's worth it to replace the tensioner and in your case it would be plain silly not to. given the mileage, interference engine, and everything else you're putting into this. if you're that concerned about going OEM, then it's humorous to leave a quarter million mile tensioner in there when you're replacing every other conceivable part.

Picked up a cutting torch set up - Oxy-propane. Guy said it worked fine and the propane tank was full, I had the oxygen tank filled. With the propane flowing out of the torch tip, it only lights for a second and then goes out? Keep it pointed at another flame and it stays lit just fine. Seems like the tip is probably clogged? I'm not confident on how the controls work: How do i know if this torch/set up has a flashback arrestor? Each tank has a valve obviously - open/close. Then it appears the regulators have a dial/valve of some sort - what do I do with those? The torch has a dial for each gas line and then one other dial - what is that dial for and how do I set it? What's the typical Oxy-gas start up method - open gas, light it, then dial in the Oxy?

i'm a mod of subaruxt.com and have owned a couple dozen of these things since 1993 and have 3 right now. EJ's are cheaper, easier to get parts for and more reliable, same power, (lighter?). the XT6 timing pulleys are annoying there's no new sources for them (not counting cheap ebay kits that are $399 or Subaru$$$$$). EJ timing belt kits are $80. the XT6 isn't bad and is a very reliable engine with a few quirks addressed, but i'm just giving some feedback. you can join us at subaruxt.com for ER27 specifics and the complete XT6 Subaru factory service manual to download for free. having done an XT6 power steering conversion into an EA82 - i woudln't recommend it. there's no easy way to integrate the controllers. i installed the pump and rack, but none of the controllers. you could just install the power steering pump and lines to the rack or even install the XT6 rack - a slightly quicker ratio i believe. that's in an EA82 - i'm not sure about EA82 to EA81 interchangeability though. but the XT6 fittings are all the same as EA82 so that's easy for the pump install. electrically there's a power controller, computer, and a steering column sensor in addition to the speed signal input, and a Technical Service bulletin for performing a steering update which means installing a separate harness/wire. it's a blue wire connected the pump/controller, if it has that the update/recall/TSB has been done. not a big deal and nearly all should have it, but more nonetheless. so if you wanted to install the entire thing, in addition to the wiring wrestling match, you need to install the steering column sensor on yours or swap in an XT6 column. the system doesn't power up if it's not seeing steering input for 10 seconds (i think that's how long) so if that sensor isn't there, mimicked, or not working, the power steering won't operate because it thinks the steering wheel isn't moving. second thing is to rig up the speed input. the speed input wouldn't be a big deal since EA/ER speed/RPM monitoring is all done the same way so you'll have "input" easy enough physically speaking. still gotta do a mess of wiring. anyway - in my opinion, having looked into it, it would be a mess to rig that up. i'd give it some level of reasonable constant power assist and leave it at that. it's just an electric motor with $15 brushes that need replaced, no big deal.

yeah i've seen them not have the anaerobic as well. NAPA has always had it in stock. bubbles in overflow...that sucks. try the simple stuff - you'll want new caps/thermostats anyways if you end up donig the headgaskets, might as well throw them on there now to see. make sure it's properly burped too. replace the PCV valve, that alleviates crankcase pressure build up and purportedly reduces oil leaks. again -you'll want a new one anyway and they're cheap and easy. i pulled a 2000 EJ25 out last week and it was solidly stuck closed.

i already wrote about this in a previous post, but it depends which tensioner you have. simply put: new style - definitely replace it. old style - rarely fails. the older style (two piece) very rarely fails. but at the same time if you're replacing that much stuff for hundreds of dollars it almost seems funny to leave a part on there that's got as many miles on it as from here to moon on an interference engine. if you have the newer style tensioner (in the link i posted earlier in this thread), i wouldn't even think about keeping the old one, they fail too often at low age/miles (relatively speaking). very common. you can do a search on here for failed timing tensioners and find multiple threads....the funny thing is they're almost always the new style...ironic since they usually have fewer miles and less age. you can swap to the old style tensioner if you buy the bracket behind it. buy that bracket and you can buy a new old style (more reliable) tensioner. i have extra brackets just for this purpose. my daily drivers will never have the new style tensioners if i can avoid it, i've seen too many fail and never seen the old style fail.

read this thread. ignore what you keep asking/thinking. impreza/legacy does not matter, wipe that from your mind and quit asking about it because it doesn't mean anything. what you want to know is if they both have EGR or not. unless you don't care about check engine lights or some extra work to make it work, in which case you should ask if it's something you want to dig inot. if they both have EGR or both do not have EGR it's a plug and play easy swap.

copy, i missed that. 2.2 into a 2.2. that's really easy, definitely no wiring differences. make sure the years are right as in 1999 the 2.2 is completely different Phase II and won't work. make sure they both have EGR if you don't want a check engine light. that being said, repairing the EJ22 may be a good option. if it wasn't run hot and abused i'd just do a head job and call it a day.

subaru has a website opposed forces, find it and look up the part numbers you need.

i sent him your email address.

personally i really like to replace those two orings on the compressor. the system sealer stuff (might) help, but it might not. those two orings leak often enough that i'd want them replaced before doing this. do you know anyone that could help you? it takes about 5 minutes and you remove literally two bolts, that's it. remove bolt, pull hose, install oring, reinstall bolt. it's really easy. the hardest part is buying a bag of orings and sifting through for one the right size. the auto parts store sells bags of them with various sizes. did the mechanic diagnose where the leak is coming from? you should *not* get a quote for $700 without them knowing what part is leaking and what they're replacing. how can they quote a price if they don't know what's wrong? my buddy backed out today because of weather, so we're not doing his today but if we do i'll take pictures.