idosubaru

you could probably spend the rest of your life going through online forums correcting grammar. i'm here to help fix cars. i'll communicate however i see fit. there are mistakes in your reply :lol::lol: "Not EJ22's." is not a complete sentence.

from 94 until 99 there was at least one significant EJ22 change every year, silly subaru guys.

96 EJ22's are non-interference. for your 96: if it's a manual trans, it's an EJ22 and non-interference. if it's an auto it's an EJ25 and interference. it is fixable, the engine block will be fine, you'll need a head job and new valves.

i'll get some flare wrenches, i could use those anyway. i've doused them a few times with PB blaster. i'd be surprised if these bust loose, it's got that real bad rust that's easy to come by around here. like "where's the nut....oh, why does it look round" kind of rust. i like the cut it off and try a socket approach. that has to be way better than a wrench right?

3 flashes in the old school subaru's means "no code" - that's just a generic "I'm OK" flash. you're positive that's the right pin to ground? air bag light is on? was the car ever in a wreck? controller is plugged in?

hydraulic clutches (subaru's are my only experience), are not the most reliable systems. i wouldn't be surprised for it to be the master. also - the hose is always recommended replaced with the slave, i'm not sure why but that seems like a common thread to Subaru and others i've heard from. not sure if they fail other than leak but i've always replaced them with the slave cylinders. doesn't sound like the system hasn't been open recently meaning it has trapped air? so there's 100,000 miles on the clutch - do you know if the springs were replaced (i think the hydraulic clutches still have those, i'm forgetting)?

any tools or trick to getting the brake fittings undone? i've been hitting them with PB Blaster. Maybe I'll break out the YIELD I got from GD. torch? flare wrench (never owned those but i've heard about them), are those any help here or I'm I plain hosed? anyone know the fitting size so i can get going on parts. someone mentioned M10?

okay found them, that was easy, i was looking on the wrong side. i'm pretty sure i'm just buying brake hose custom made to the length i need so i can just install it easily. i'm not messing with bending my own metal lines, particularly considering those 180 degrees of awesomeness bends. i hate cutting and flaring, i did it once on an old ford or something and it sucked.

yep, easy swap GD. just bolt it up and make sure the final drive matches. any GT trans should work as well, there should be plenty of years/models that work. not sure how the cable/hydraulic systems shakes out between years/models but those are swappable too.

i don't know where' you're located so whatever info i post my be totally irrelveant. i have no idea what des allmandes is. EJ's are not carbed. folks have converted them, mostly aussie folks wanting to run propane. some countries had carbed EJ engines though, but not the US. need an adapter plate to bolt an EJ up to an EA trans. folks make those and i think have even showed ways to make one yourself. i just found one within driving distance of me for $169 1-800-333-2104

yep, sounds like classic wheel bearing issue. and exhaust leak should be straight forward. those are REALLY expensive usually. last exhaust pipe i priced was over $500 from subaru for a 1996 legacy, obviously i didn't fix it with a new one. other things to look out for - most importantly - if you're not going to be maintaining this car yourself, is the timing belt. that's an interference engine, if the timing belt breaks, then you'll experience internal engine damage most of the time. this is the timing belt, not the little accessory belts. your engine has a 105,000 mile replacement interval, but there's probably a time interval as well, no way i'd want a 10+ year old timing belt on an interference engine. not sure what subaru's official recommendations are but leaving a 10+ year old belt is not good practice. the tensioner and pulleys should be checked while it's off - again they're 10+ years old. make sure it doesn't have torque bind - a braking/slowing feeling going around sharp turns slowly in a parking lot.

in general these engines are poor candidates for trying to beef up, they just don't really respond and are poorly designed from the start. personally i'd do a decent rebuild....it might not need a rebuild, maybe it's just head gaskets or something? these motors don't typically, though i realize your use is totally non typical so who knows, need rebuilding. the blocks usually last as long as you care to properly maintain if they're not overheated or run out of oil. folks have talked a lot about swapping different cams, deltacams can make cams for you and folks claim the turbo cams are a little different. it's such a dinky, underpowered, ill designed motor it's really best left untouched and to do what it's good at - rack up high miles really cheap. anything outside of that is asking a bit much. how about an EJ18 or Ej22 engine instead? i can get those for cheaper than an EA82 rebuild would cost. cheaper, more reliable, way more power, easier to maintain, newer technologies and designs, way better motor...and did i mention cheaper? last one i bought was $150 and it was in great shape, low miles, and i've put 40k on it now. RAM performance sell pistons, bearing kits, etc materials for Subaru engine rebuilds and EA parts - they can custom do some things too. folks have carbed EJ engines if that's what you need to do. if you want more info you'll probably want to post specific EA82 questions in the Old Generation Forum.

friends 1996 Legacy wagon has a leaking brake line on the passegers rear. How is it routed and where are the pieces/fittings between the seat and rear brakes? I can't tell where the lines go once they disappear into the crossmember. Where's the "other side"? Are there any valves or anything or just metal lines? It appears online at opposedforces that there's one line which splits to two for the left right in the back somewhere.

on the heads should be the engine designatio EA82 - let us know if it's plain EA82, has a box around it, or what. is it carb or FI? does it have MPFI or SPFI? more info...or even a picture might help. you wanting to know for a particular reason or just for future reference? if there's a specific question we might be able to help.

are those typically at any auto parts store - i've never noticed them on the shelves before? i don't spend a lot of time in the exhaust section though typically.

to clarify, most of what you're mentioning is "final drive gearing" related, not just "gearing" related. 3.7....4.44 is all final drive specific. the gear ratio of the actual gears inside the transmission also make a difference, not just the front and rear diffs that determine the final drive ratios. it might be the case that all the 3.9 and 4.11 EJ MT's use the same gearing in which case the only change is the final drive of the diffs, but i know across some they did change the gearing too (not just final drive). might want to check the nice rallispec...or whatever chart that is that breaks down all the MT gears and ratios. pretty sure only automatics came with 4.44, so your choices in manual transmissions will be (not counting the 6 speed MT, not sure what that has, but i would assume that's cost prohibitive): 3.7 (unlikely) so 3.9, and 4.11. maybe it's possible to install a 4.44 front diff in a manual trans, i'm not sure how the ring and pinions shake out between the front diffs but that's a rather big job requiring splitting the transmission case. hopefully the offroad guys see this, they should have some good input.

this makes it look like there's one line going under the seat, then somewhere above the cross member it separates into two lines? is there any valve or anything or literally just a split of the lines into two for each side? i guess that split is impossible to get to without dropping the cross member? http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_28/brake_system/brake_piping/illustration_4/

turned out to be rear metal brake line leaking due to rust. i think that i wasn't able to experience the issue made it hard to track down. drove it home and the leak apparently got really bad, making it easy to find.

turned out to be a leaking rear passengers side brake line, the metal line rusted.

were you able to repair this - how did it go?

wow this is awesome, my friends 96 Legacy brighton has a leak in the same spot. passengers side rear above crossmember somewhere. big question - i can't see where the line goes after it disappears over the cross member. where can i access "the other side" of the brake line?

i wouldn't call it love, they're metal to me, but 2 things come to mind: convenience. in a joking manner i'd say "i know everything about Subaru's and nothing about anything else". no time or interest to learn something new so that makes subarus easy for me to work on and cheap. XT6: attachment issues maybe? I've owned an XT (or 10 ) since 1992 or 93. I enjoy the XT community, inexpensive, reliable, lots of knowledge and parts to keep them rolling....but there a novelty or something factor too.

don't let that stop you, just because it's been done once or twice. get yours done right, make it an actual driver and post pic's. sounds like you have little rhyme or reason to it, so get your sawzall and welder fired up and get off the computer!

automatic or manual trans? auto - make sure all the torque converter bolts are out. go all the way around and make sure you're not missing a nut or bolt. starter is removed? has it separated at all? they usually take a bit to start coming apart - work you're way around, and around, and around start with a small screw drivers/chisel then move up in size as you get a gap to work with.

not surprised. glad that was relatively easy and hope it's fixed. do the TCU's/ECU's have any kind of "learning" curve? pulling the battery should have reset any of that too, right? maybe some miles put on it will smooth it out?