idosubaru

what do you mean by "fat spot"? not sure about new, this is a 98 OBW that had it when i got it. i still have no idea what the button looks like or how big it is.

yeah, replacing a radiator is really easy. as easy as this is, if you need instruction it might be more than you want to tackle. wouldn't cost much at all to pay someone to do it. then you don't have to worry about rusted clamps, bleeding the system, and the transmission fluid lines. but if you want to do it: the only hard part is burping the system, this particular engine is notorious for being hard to bleed and overheating any time the coolant is refilled. on many (all?) EJ engines there's a plastic bleeder screw on the top passengers side. have that open as you fill with coolant. keep pouring until bubbles no longer come out the bleeder screw and it just seaps all coolant, screw it tight then finish refilling. helps for the nose of the car to be higher than the rear. keep your eyes very intent on the temperature gauge afterwards and any sign of running hotter than normal (it'll shoot up obviously) means there's still air in the system. do a quick visual to make sure you have all the parts you need. now is a good time to replace any clamps/hoses that look suspect. you'll need new radiator hoses/atf hoses if they're rusted and don't easily come apart. take an inventory and have them on hand. any suspect clamps (radiator hose and ATF hoses) can be sprayed with a penetrant like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster to help them come loose. other than that - just remove the drive belts, fans, electrical connectors, and hoses and such. if it's an automatic then your transmission fluid lines also run through the radiator. the clamps will need replaced if they're rusted bad. often the lines are hard to get off the fittings and very hard to get back on the new fittings. to get them off - use a wrench and rotate the lines "around" the fitting before trying to pull them off, this breaks the bonding. then try and slide them off with a screw driver or pliers. getting them on can be a very tight fit, you almost certainly won't get them on as far as they were. i use a screw driver or other large object to ream the end of the hose...working it all around it to stretch it out for the reinstall.

sometimes i am, but not for this. i'm going to pass, unless someone that's done it pipes up with good feedback and suggestions.

trying to program this 98 OBW and i can't find the "programming" button. yes i read the directions on cars101.com and i've looked for inordinate amount of time and cut some electrical tape, pulled some stuff down....need some help here. anyone have a clue what/where i'm looking for?

i thought this was a legacy, not loyale, so im' not familiar with EA82 stuff as XT6's are different (they are like EJ's). i've had axles not go in before just because the splines needed some filing though. didn't even look bad and axle came out fine, but some filing/cleaning inside and they slid right in. i've had that happen once or twice, otherwise all of mine have always slid in effortlessly.

How hard would it be to install my 98 OBW remote entry (Subaru installed system) into my 1996 Legacy LSi? Reading through here it seems like a rather complicated. Including the fact that it might not even be possible without the actuator which is remote-entry specific on the drivers side. Anyone have experience doing this?

first find out why it won't install, it's not a tight fit, it should slide right in easily with zero effort. so it must be the wrong axle or corrosion or something else? the axle should not be forced through. if it won't slide in normally then file the insides of the hub splines to smooth them out, get rid of rust, build up or grime. make sure none of the filing/dirt get into the bearings.

There's no 100% successful way to tell if 96+ have EGR or not, except to look. Auto/manual does not matter post 95. In 1995 all auto's have EGR, manuals do not, after that it's not so clear cut....though most of the time they do have EGR, so just ask.

don't think you'll find much quantitative feedback. you can read all the other "does THIS work" threads. it's just rolling dice, if you don't mind that, then tear it up.

he's in CT mike. non-interference is nice. i wouldn't shy away from 96's either - also non interference and the only difference is you'll need the y pipe. don't let that scare you, it has to essentially come off anyway (off the motor) and only requires removing two extra bolts. buy mike's, he's a straight up great subaru enthusiast, i've bought tons of stuff from him.

man that really sucks, hate to hear that. cops are not going to do anything unless it all just falls in their hand hate to say. i've had too many experiences with "law enforcement" and they will do little more than let you feel like they're doing something. looking for criminals would take time away from generating revenue with tickets. who cares, insurance came through. i wonder - do you feel like this stuff is being done by the same person? same location? same time of day/year/something? an enormous amount of crimes are commited by someone "in the know", they have some familiarity with the premises. that definitely stinks man, i've been thinking about my stuff too but you said it best - i feel petty about going through it all. i don't have any exraneous high value items. heck i probably need to just take pictures of it all so i have some clue what i actually own. that's when you shoot in the foot, then after they fall shoot them from the front. actually i wouldn't likely do that, my personal favorite is a high quality choke hold. then when the cops get there they can't even talk straight for about 30 minutes without huge gasps of air between every word and the cops get annoyed... seriously, law enforcement are "on your side" if you're not an idiot...it's dark, you're threatened, you're not sure what's going on or who is around, or if they have a weapon...there's a lot of ambiguity in a situation like that and it's not normally going to fall in favor of the criminal unless there's some blatant disregards on your part.

not sure about all...but some of the back plates actually essentially require a bearing job i think - they're like pressed into the knuckle. i'd have to check on that to be sure though. but yeah, just ignore them, you'll be fine. i've seen them hanging off, completely ripped off, missing, i wouldn't worry about it. wait until you need an axle or wheel bearing, something like that might be a good time to change them, but i'd never consider replacing them on their own.

always dry. subaru ones are far higher quality than aftermarkets. they are one of the easiest gaskets to reuse too (if the gasket is in good shape obviously) they hold up very well if they weren't leaking prior.

engine swap stuff is covered zillions of times here, so searching will answer any and all questions. EJ22 direct swap candidates are 1995-1998 EGR equipped EJ22's. 1995 Automatic (manuals don't have EGR) 1996-1998 with exhaust manifold If you don't care about the check engine light then any 1995-1998 EJ22 will work, I installed a non-EGR on purpose because i like more reliability and dislike EGR. I could care less about check engine lights but in your state you probably don't have a choice.

3.0 is a great engine. Subaru's first timing chain. The chain guides ocassionally have issues. The subaruoutback board has an entire forum for the 3.0 H6 engine version, read through/search there if you want more info on that timing chain deal. The accessory belt idler pulley bearings fail all the time, but they're so cheap and easy to replace it's not even funny. I did both of mine...30 minutes or something, it was so easy i barely remember. Basically they're a maintenance item - every 100,000 miles or something.

that's awesome, if it prevents it from getting air locked or whatever and doesn't run hot you're golden until it probably starts loosing coolant to fast to add it. in my experience (though not with EJ25's), running with blown headgaskets does two things. first it gradually gets worse, of course you guessed that would happen. and significant engine/head damage occurs in less than a year (i probably have old heads/pictures). the leak will cause deterioration and loss of metal where the gasket is breached. not sure if that's due to localized heat or what, but the metal wears away like finely carved channels from water in rock. can't think of another way to explain it. so, you might consider this temporary or like he said above, plan on an engine swap, or at least inspect the block/heads before repairing obviously. good luck and report back as time goes on, curious to see how this progresses.

yep, sounds good. tie rods on Subaru's rarely have issues and i've never seen or even heard of one failing. but it is quite a safety item so should you ever be inclined to do it that's not a bad idea either.

MT AWD xt6 is about the worst XT6 i've ever had, around 21 or so. haven't looked into the problem yet.

get the caliper brackets with all the brakes too, not just calipers. as for rotors, try getting the ones off the car and having them turned? might get lucky? subaru is real whacko with brakes, so i'm not sure, but i would just write down all the info you can of the donor car. read Jamal's write up on all the various brake combinations. Subaru was ADD when it came to brakes.

that's awesome, that helps you figure out what's wrong right? has to be the controls?

XT and XT6 fronts are completely different, so you'll need to specify. title mentions XT6, body of text doesn't. your vehicle is an EA81 i believe so you'll want to look up the 5 lug swap thread and look for EA81 specific comments. it's out there.

right, i'm not partial to emo arm chair commentators like that.

the wheel had movement at 3 and 9 oclock? that sounds more like wheel bearing issue? but i assume there's no noise and you think it's tie rod? just checking, hard not seeing a car and all. tie rods are easy to replace. hit the nuts a few times with penetrant before doing the job. another possibility for the steering wheel feel is steering rack bushings, but this doesn't sound like your problem. though you might want to make sure the bushing looks good in the bracket holding the rack to the underneath of the car. i have inner and outer tie rods if you want for a 97 Legacy, PM or email me if you want.

you probably have beginning head gasket failure - the start by randomly overheating at first. be interested to see if it overheats without the t-stat, i would think it'll still overheat. air pockets cause it to overheat, i can't see a tstat making much difference but being where it's located on the pump, maybe it will?

oh right, good point. it's the LATCH system - the standardized child restraint system now...the two hook/d ring things in the rear seats.