idosubaru

Yes.

you're right, they replaced items that did not need replaced at a very exorbitant cost. seems silly to be replacing such expensive parts when they don't know that's the problem. i'd probably be calling in a stop-payment on my credit card or something.

dealer will be around $800 but you won't be getting new pulleys and tensioner for that price. i've done motor swaps for free before....so it just depends who's doing the work for you. I'd expect $500-$600 total from the average mechanic. $750 for the motor swap, $200 for clutch, $600 for the timing belt and sealing it up - you're getting into more than the car is worth which was the whole premise of the first reply. you'll have a fairly reliable car so it's not a bad idea but i'd make sure you have funds and the willingness to address future issues - typical issues on your car may include trans, synchro's, torque bind (viscous coupler), fuel pump, driveshaft ujoints, wheel bearings, alternator, starter, radiator, a/c, struts, calipers,...the entire car has that mileage on it, not just the motor. clutch life is all dependent on you, no way we can answer that. you can put 200,000 miles on a clutch or burn it up in 30,000 depending how you drive and what kind of driving.

Wow, that sucks, it might be seized. I've had one like this before and never messed with it. The one thing I can tell you is that I removed a 1996 AWD Automatic EJ25 Legacy Lsi engine and trans at the same time. It was VERY tight, but they both came out attached. So since you need to pull the engine anyway, it might be best to yank them both like this so you have better access to everything. I'm almost tempted to just say smash the engine side bellhousing to bits until you can reach the flexplate bolts, but I ca'nt recall which side the bolts are facing....i think they face the engine though, so you'd have access. another last resort might be removing the intake manifold and actually unbolting the engine block and essentially "splitting it" while in the engine bay. never heard of someone disassembling a motor in a car before but not sure what you're options are. that might allow it to turn over.

If you need an 89 XT ECU, any 88, 89, 90, or 91 ECU should work. Auto and manual trans doesn't matter, they're interchangeable. Do not use a Turbo ECU, that's a 1987.5 ECU, and well it's a turbo.

i'd just replace with MOOG or Subaru next time, I bet you got a bad one or it was poor quality like I was saying I could see visually. Usually if the small things are bad, the overall quality leaves something to be desired.

What they wrote above is exactly what I would have expected. If it's at the discretion of submiters, they'd get thousands more submissions and get sued, which I can tell you they've been sued before. If someone had a profitable idea it's unlikely to end up at Lisle anyway and if it was they would be willing rewrite or negotiate on different terms than their SOP they just sent you. They end up with mostly low-profit ideas which aren't worth their time (think of the people you run across that want a cheap car). What you're getting with Lisle is MASSIVE exposure, most folks don't realize how valuable that is. How do you let millions of people know about your product? They are providing a service that most folks don't understand because they can't quantify it. And if it came down to "royalty's" they think the product is more valuable than their marketing. Lisle doesn't want to be in the business of arbitrating that. You're really hosed unless you want to give the product away or somehow market it yourself. A good patent attorney can do wonders to protect the idea. Though in this case, with some existing items out there it may be tricky.

right on, typically folks arent putting much money into cars this old or mileage but if your down with thatt then good sttuff. tbelt job will run fiv e hundred to a tousand depending on parts and mechanic charges. if you need a c

Turn it right, like normal threads. Are you saying the piston came out of the caliper bore? Just get a rebuild kit from the store and rebuild the caliper. It's really easy and can be done on the car, there's just one seal and the rubber boot, that's it and you got "new" calipers. Clean up the inside of the bore really well of course. I just bought a caliper rebuild kit for a legacy a couple weeks ago, it was $2.99 or like $100 for a new caliper.

put it in FWD mode. you're doing damage to your axles and bushings driving it like that.

what parts did you use? i went to buy ball joints the other day and they had one brand (can't recall but it said it was OEM spec) and MOOG which was a good bit more in price. i asked to see both and the MOOG was noticeably nicer quality. everything about it looked better, the metal on the bottom looked new, not reused or poorly cast (smooth, no divots, etc), the rubber looked better, and the most obvious difference was the circlips holding the boot in place. the MOOG was nice, tight, and looked very professional. the cheaper one looked sloppy. maybe you just had some cheap ball joints or got a bad batch?

you won't notice any "power gains". if there was that much power sitting in the exhaust ports Subaru would have used it to sell more cars. if you look them up the 1995 EJ22 is rated at 135 hp and the 1996 EJ22 is rated at 135 hp. the price is not bad for the work, but it's just all backwards and not right. "hey i need new spark plugs, let's get a used engine"?? just doesn't make sense if the engine is running fine. first - the "newer" lower mileage engine is more than likely going to have oil leaking issues as well. just the nature of 15+ year old seals and gaskets. but it doesn't really matter, oil leaks are really easy to fix, i'd just go ahead and fix them and save yourself some cash. both of these motors need a timing belt job. timing belt needs replaced. and with that off you have easy access to crank seal, cam seals, and cam orings, reseal the oil pump, all of which leak all the time on older subaru's. and you can replace the valve covers as well, also easy to replace. personally i'd say just reseal the motor and call it a day because the new motor is going to need the same exact maintenance - timing belt, seals, etc.

correct, 10x1.25 threaded studs. easiest solution is just to get them at a local auto parts store. they have 10x1.25 studs, use those. they won't list any applications for Subaru's, just find the 10 x 1.25 studs. in some cases the stud will come with a center section that isn't threaded, you get those and put the shortest threaded end into the engine that way the "unthreaded" portion is under the nut and benign.

bigger impact wrench. i use a socket with a 3 foot pipe on it to get them off, the initial loosening is TIGHT. after that they just spin right off.

not at all, just the final. the rear diff has to match the front diff, it's nothing complicated.

Meet with a patent attorney and see what you're options are. Patent it, start a company, then sell the company is the way to make cash. Otherwise it's hard for anyone to take you seriously as companies are strictly in for financial purposes. I know someone that did exactly that. Was offered 20 million for the business last year and he declined, said he wants 50mil. If you're not in it for money, then find a shop to make a XYZ of them and sell them.

there's no need to know anything about subaru's. your problem is likely to be something very simple: tie rods, steering rack bushings, struts, causing this pulling/wandering. i would start by looking at the steering rack bushings. something is out of whack and it's unlikely (like i'd bet my house on it) to be anything expensive. just need to find it.

i'm betting your timing belts are lined up incorrectly. 2 oclock? why are you lining them up at 2 oclock? the timing marks are all at 12 noon, you should use those. (6 oclock for the two lower cam sprockets). any check engine codes?

Apparently he's resolved the problem, I think he updated the software in his scanner. Must be microsoft based :rolleyes:

Subaru dealer.

Friend is looking at someone's car and his OBDII scanner wont work in the OBDII port. Says it's not recognizing anything. 2001 OBW EJ25. He said the dealer told her something was wrong and quoted her massive coin to fix it. He's trying to help her but isn't familiar with Subaru's. So....what could be wrong and is there a way to flash the codes without using the OBDII port? He's checked the reader in a few cars and it works no problems. That and the dealers remarks suggests something is wrong with the port. The check engine light is on.

Yeah just take a deep breath and don't worry about the bolts. You're not going to have problems with one this new and these bolts are way up out of the way of salt/debris/water. The disconnect way is not a good way to test an alternator. That only tests output, but there's lots of other things that can fail or be intermittent. You can have it tested at the store, auto zone, advanced, and other chain stores test them for free. You can have them test it on the car or take the alt to them. If you jump start it you can test voltage if you have a multi-meter. If it's making noise you can use a mechanics stethoscope ($10) to listen..or use a long dowel rod, screw driver that's a crude method to do the same thing. Touch it to the alternator, power steering, and a/c, close to the belt bearings, etc. You'll here whatever it is that has bad bearing, it'll be noticeably louder than all the rest. The mechanics stethoscope is the way to go but those crude methods do work, but it's harder if you've never done it before. So you have lots of options, good lucdK!

those gears don't just "break off" on a motor with such little power. did the cam shaft turn over by hand? did the engine turn over? first check your fusible links, one of them is critical to the starting process i forget which one. make sure the motor turns over, i guess everythign did since you installed the belts. read the codes off the ECU. read the codes from memory. give the starter 12 volts and MAKE it turn over. if it doesn't, bad starter.

Check all connections at battery, alternator, and starter. I'm betting there is a bad connection, dirty connection, or crimped wire somewhere. The starter could also be going bad. Next time it does it, have a hammer and screw driver (or other long object) handy and smack the starter/solenoid. If it starts after that, then the starter is going out. A bad starter/solenoid or connection there is my guess.

the answer is "no"...sort of. the trans isn't set up to run like you suggest or desire. power will be transferred to the axle-less wheels or the rear output shaft if you remove those components. if you're lucky, you might be able to drive it like that and fry the innards enough to lock the viscous coupler but not damage something else. the easier method would be to just use a FWD transmission or a 5MT with torque bind. i know people that have done that, run a trans with a critical case of the torque bind in RWD.