idosubaru

i'm not sure what you're asking. yes 95 imp and 95 leg should interchange. ratios are likely to be different so you'll have to make that work.

Let them work it out, the commentary isn't helping. Considering the scope of this ordeal both parties have been extremely patient and flexible. Poking at his mechanic hardly seems beneficial, nor does being the arm chair business expert fanning the flames about CCR's next move.

oh snap, i didn't think about that. good to know.

did i miss something - i thought he said soapy water, slide it into place then let it dry? you're supposed to heat gun it? it's summer time, how about just park it outside facing the sun on a sunny day? i have a propane torch but i better use the wife's hair dryer.

cool, a man who knows how to use his computer and search, i like you already.

cool, glad that isn't the case. we're just trying to help and make sure all possibilities are being covered as best we can for not being able to touch, see, hear, or be a part of the process.

do a search for kingbobdole, he went with vented valve covers like you're talking about. i can't recall why, but i don't think he liked that set up and he didn't have a turbo which would probably exacerbate things. i know he posted about it on the subaruxt.com forum, not sure if he ever mentioned it here, he's not on here as much.

oh, and welcome aboard Hanover, PA - i'm from Westminster, MD but actually grew up just across the line not far from the Hanover water supply reservoir, Longarm. still go back there often.

there's a tree under the intake hose i believe, at least on XT's there is, it i would guess is the crankcase vent. aren't the valve covers also a crank case vent? the valve covers have wide open access through the bottom of the heads to the crank case....that's how the oil gets back to the engine? i never knew the PCV system had anything to do with removing acidic by products. does it matters, it's an EA82T, how much longer do you give it GD?

oh why thank you kind sir, much obliged indeed.

awesome, thanks a bunch. so the process is to peel the sticker, treat the rust, install new sticker? that sounds easy enough. (nightmare coming.....)

$750 is a discount . Don't know what mine are (no more than double digits paid for both) but I've never had a problem with them holding tools, rolling, and opening.

the difference is in the heads, they have siamesed exhaust ports. you can look up power differences on cars101.com with the 1995 being dual ports and 96 being single port. i would compare those two since they are the most identical except for the exhaust deal. pretty sure the power difference is rather small.

these things leak all the time at the oring between the reservoir and pump, i just did one a couple weeks ago. no need to mess with the pump at all, just remove the reservoir and replace the oring underneath. very simple and can be done in 30 minutes.

fuel wash - if an injector is leaky it can wash oil from the cylinder walls and keep the cylinders/rings from being properly lubed. this would cause elevated cylinder wear - loss of compression and using oil. Quidam mentions it because you're having issues on the same cylinders again, suggesting that there might be a common denominator. the injectors are on your intake manifold, so they likely aren't coming from CCR. you're just getting the long block from CCR with no intake manifold right?

yeah, i'd hate to see the install price from the dealer. good to know it's "installable", maybe you'll run across a complete used unit some day?

I'd probably prefer more drawers, specifically more larger drawers, and zero of the bottom "open" space. With pullers, air tools, and all sorts of other large stuff I don't have enough large drawers. I hardly have any need for that large cavity, drawers, more drawers please! If I had more larger drawers I'd dedicate one to chemicals - PB Blaster, Brake caliper grease, brake cleaner, anaerobic sealant, RTV, anti seize, thread locker, grease...etc. That would make it a one stop shop except for very rare occasions. Also - one of mine has a handle that the top portion (5 drawers or so?) comes off and is very portable. I like that. I need portability. I'm often helping someone out or work on more than one car at once so needing the car pulled into the same spot in the garage isn't my cup of tea. I have two rolling cabinets but honestly the biggest help to me rather than specifics on those is having two bags, as lame as that sounds. One is for all normal Subaru socket stuff. I use those socket holders to keep things organized. The other bag has everything else used for typical jobs - brakes, tune ups, timing belts, fluid changes, hoses, etc. Honestly I haven't ever thought about switching it up and putting all my tools into the top "portable" section of the rolling cabinets. The bags are so functional I've never considered doing that. I think the bags work better for my situation.

no, the plugs are above the valve covers, so just the valve cover gaskets and grommets for the bolts is all he'll have.

Wow, that's a lot of craziness for such a new vehicle. Have your transmission fluid flushed/changed immediately. Check your tires make sure they're the right pressure and the same size. That being said yours is definitely hosed up, probably due to someone not reinstalling struts properly or something else. Without knowing how bad your tires are, test your air pressure first then go get an alignment, it's obvious someone screwed it up at some point. throw your worst tires on the back and get as many miles as you can out of them.

never done an EJ in the car but on the older models the ratcheting wrenches are worth $200 dollars for valve cover bolts. They're awesome and make a PIT$!# job very simple.

use whatever fluid the owners manual recommends. if you don't have one, get one, they're really helpful for fluids, capacities, etc. i think it's just ATF for almost all Subaru's. as for bleeding it's a rather benign issue here. you're just replacing the pump, that's easy. just replace and refill it. i just removed a pump from an EJ25 a couple weeks ago, i didn't even think about bleeding it. reinsatlled, refilled, perfect steering. if you want to be all anal about it, turn it lock to lock, a few times. i've done motor swaps, pulled out all the rack lines, swapped racks, etc and never had a problem with them. not much too it really i don't really ever remember doing much more than filling it up.

really? go fix that rust so i can take notes!! not just amusement but functionality too, you're going to need a spare with an EA82T.

just tell her to lie down and go to sleep! for real, worst case scenario you could swap the rear seats from one equipped how you'd like if the top brackets/head rests aren't installable in yours.

it may, certainly be fine for the summer. might make it a bit sluggish starting in the winter if it's really cold, but you probably won't notice. i've used 20w50 in subaru's before and noticed no problems. i'd also install a new Subaru PCV valve to keep pressure in the crankcase down.

with something like this that's the best way to do it anyway. extremely helping to have mounts, hoses, cables, brackets, and little stuff like that to make this work. piecing something together on a deal like this easily ends up being costly anyway as you end up buying a part here or there along the way. yes - definitely contact me on parts. (is there a vulture smiley face, there needs to be!!!):lol: