idosubaru

nope.

yes. at most you'll need to swap cam sprockets too, but probably not.

I don't do anything except replace the filter.

it probably wasn't the head gaskets at first...though they might be hosed now that you've driven it this long like that. there's lots of other possible causes here, have you looked into this at all? thermostat, water pump, hoses, clamps, leaks, bad radiator, fans not coming on.....

look for a used on close to the same mileage as yours and call it good? i'd wonder if an earlier or later model year would work, the 99 odometers are notoriously problematic for some reason, i'm not sure how one year can be worse than others.

he said he put 500 miles on it so i'm assuming it's not an air pocket, but good thing to make sure.

first verify you don't have a leak. most likely you got a motor with a bad head gasket. buying a used EJ25 is a fun way to gamble, at least you have *something* to show for it. good luck with the warranty, hope they pull through on that. when i bought a JDM motor it too came with blown head gaskets. they offered me new head gaskets...just the gaskets that is. wow, how nice. i'm stuck doing the labor. i'd rather buy the gaskets and get the labor for free. i never recommend used EJ25's.

craziness. the orings are easy to replace....you just loose your charge. i've filled them up after replacing orings numerous times with 100% sucess rate so far. it's only one bolt to replace each oring, so the system is only open for a very short time, i can't imagine much air is actually getting in there. no more than the system can easily dissipate. i know it's not ideal, but it works.

awesome dave, good luck with it! i've thought about doing the same thing, getting that press. i was just afraid i'd have no clue how to use it properly and mess up the hub/bearings.

5 deer in the trunk of an XT6 on this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82922&page=2 no pic's of anything else, don't usually think about it.

yep, glad it worked out.

the cheapest and easiest way to fix a bad bearing is to just buy a complete knuckle/hub assembly. very easy and usually not hard to find. unbolt struts, tie rod and ball joint and you're done. much simpler than doing a bearing replacement. good idea to pull the inner wheel seal since it's what seals against the axle. very easy, just like replacing any other seal. pull it out, tap a new one in place. clean out any dirt in there, smear some new grease around before putting the new seal back in. this will protect your "new" bearings. some folks on here even replace that seal every time they replace an axle. not a bad idea to protect the bearings. i bought a wheel seal for an EJ the other day and it was only $8.

understood. clutch jobs are going to run $500-$800 probably. more at a dealer probably. the exhaust is best fixed at an exhaust shop (an honest one hopefully!). they can actually repair or build an entire exhaust for cheap rather than buying all new stuff. metal and pipe is cheap. steering rack often means the steering rack bushings need replaced. those are the only things i've ever had to replace, they get old and the steering wants to drift or has a delay in it because the two bushings that hold the rack in place are warn. very easy to fix, it's only 4 bolts. so even if you paid someone it shouldn't be expensive. good luck with it.

DING DING DING - yes, i almost didnt' see that - you need a new coil pack. get a used one for $15 from a yard...buy two if you're scared and put one in the glove box. easy fix, woo hoo!

yep, crank seal or oil pump. most likely a cam seal or cam oring is seeping too, so best to have those on hand when doing this job since they're right in front of you anyway when doing the others.

yeah that's a good call, once they heat up noticeably you're reaching some significant problems.

Adjust the clutch cable and see if it's correct. Clutch cables can break and stick as well, though yours seems to be working right. It sounds to me like you need a clutch job. The pilot or throw out bearing is probably noisy, both of those are replaced with a respectable clutch job. Clutch job by itself isn't a normal reason to get rid of that vehicle if you're interested in hanging on to it.

if the shaft is already shot, he can cut the front cup off and slide it into the trans and get creative to hold it in place. 4 sections? there's only two sections of driveshaft. the front half out of the trans and the rear half going to the rear diff? anyway, just take in whatever parts you want repaired. either the front bad one, or all three. the shafts are all balanced independently so there's no requirement to do them all. that's why you were able to replace it a few months ago without balance issues...well until that ujoint went out again...grrrr!!

that's awesome.

i thought the oil filter was on the passengers side, guess i'm turned around or thinking EJ's. anyway - drivers side would be a cam seal or cam cap oring. if it's central, like under the large crank pulley, it's the crank seal or oil pump needs resealed. it doesn't really matter because either way the timing belts have to come off for all of these. and since the seals are only a couple dollars it's usually best to replace them all while you're in there. also a good time to put a new water pump in since that's also behind the timing belt. at the very least i'd reseal the oil pump and replace any seals that are wet with oil. and of course probably a good time to install new belts unless they're new. if the belt has any oil on it, then replace them for sure. oil degrades the belt fast. although the belt shouldn't be getting wet unless the oil is really pouring out. i had this happen on a friends car and the new belt lasted less than 10,000 miles after getting oil all over it.

that sounds normal. a fair amount will come out and the fuel pump primes for one second when the ignition is turned "on" even when the engine is "off", so it's typically under good pressure. no check engine light? im' thinking it's probably the cam or crank sensor. normally you get a check engine light with those, but not always. not sure how to tell you to go about finding out which one it is - cam or crank. you can buy them used for really cheap...someone on here would probably send you one of each. i would just swap in two used ones to see if that helps. they are really easy to replace, nothing special to it and should only take a couple minutes. post in the parts wanted forum for both of these. might want to research first (look online or call) to see if EJ22 and EJ18 sensors are the same. they should be, EJ22 stuff will be much easier to find. verify you're getting spark at all 4 wires. get an old (or new) plug..any plug will do. pull each wire off and attach it to the plug. hold the plug with insulated wrench and hold it close to a ground in the engine bay while trying to start the car. verify good spark at each wire.

Rockford sells the ujoints to replace it with, I believe a long time ago I even posted the paperwork that comes with the Staked-in replacement joints and the part number. But you can look it up online too. You have to cut the ujoints, then bash the caps out of the yokes. Then install the new joint and caps. It would require some grinding most likely as well, then some care in setting the yokes straight and seating the new joints properly. A driveshaft shop is your best bet. If you hand them the ujoint (rockford) and already cut the old ujoint out, it won't cost much, they'll have it done in under an hour - $30-$75 labor depending on local rates and operations. I have some used shafts I could sell you!!??!! +1 on driving it in FWD mode if you have to, it'll be fine.

check for fuel. pull the hose at the filter and see if you're getting fuel.

i have no idea, i guess whoever pressed the bearings sometime in the past? the new bearings made noise within 10 miles, so i'm assuming that's because the hub was bad, that's what everyone has told me. i just looked up my spreadsheet - the bearings lasted 17,000 miles after they started making noise. i would guess every case is different, that was during winter, i would guess summer heat would have made it worse.

That endwrench note is very short and simple, so I posted it here, this is all it says. The problem I had was on a 1997 Legacy, where the article says 2001+ vehicles. I guess with older ones maybe it's just rust or something? Didn't seem that rusty to me, no more than any other caliper bracket i've worked on.