idosubaru

how's the ignition stuff GD? watch at night or under mist of water to look for sparks, listen to the idle? you have probably seen (and gotten annoyed) at my commentary, but EJ engines with problematic ignition wires are nothing new to me (even brand new wires). MAF? they can get dirty and need a cleaning or have a broken wire in the air flow. on one turbo motor i pulled apart oil was all up in the intake hose all the way into the MAF as well. the metal screen was even blown through. TPS? not sure about the EJ series stuff, never had to mess with it, but on older gen stuff rebuilding the TPS (pulling apart and cleaning the contacts) can smooth things out. good luck! i don't know touring wagons, is that a turbo motor as well?

I emailed the Subaru dealer i bought the bearings from, here was their reply: "The sealed units started in 2005 models we made the kit for our own use subaru does not make a "kit" actually ALSO our technicians say no need to grease them thanx"

EGT - Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor? That's not necessary but you could probably fit an aftermarket one in the hole - might require one adapter or not, but i would think that would be a good option. Aftermarket stuff should be easily found there (like i know nairobi!!)?

okay 89 can't be a turbo then and they "usually" know to call it an "XT6", so it sounds like a non turbo 4 cylinder, which won't have 5 lug. it'll have the spider intake manifold - i'd snag that if this thing is getting junked. and the wiper transmission too, you won't have a problem selling that. the XT boards would be a good place to sell something XT specific. check the front brake pads while you're pulling the struts, they should fit yours. the dash and column surrounds are really hard to find...and very difficult to remove without breaking the tabs or screws that hold them in place. good luck!

From Subaru's Endwrench site: "The new genuine Subaru rear wheel bearings are not to be packed with grease of any kind. The bearing is ready to install out of the box." I ordered a new wheel bearing from one of the online places - so would they have sent me this "new bearing" or something else? Unfortunately i ordered a "Wheel Bearing Kit" part # 28016AA030 so i can't tell which bearing that is?

Question: i removed the hub and let the machine shop do the bearings. are rear bearings (1996 Legacy) sealed bearings or do they require greasing to install? talked to a guy at the shop and he said he thought subaru's were sealed and didn't require any grease? but he's not the main guy and said if they need grease they'll grease them. not sure what to make of that, but I hope they do it right!? this worked for me, i had good luck yesterday. sprayed it every few days, the entire length of that long bolt, the head, and the nut. yesterday i heated the nut on the end of that long bolt and off it came. i went slow and took breaks so as not to heat and shear the bolt. the ABS sensor took the longest to remove i think, was seriously rusted and stuck but eventually came out.

are you looking for a parts car or parts for a particular vehicle? and is this an XT6 or XT? are you looking for yourself or just trying to collect hard to find parts for board members/future/to sell? XT6 is 5 lug XT is 4 lug if it's an XT6 or XT it should have rear discs the steering column surrounds are different between XT's and XT6's...or at least certain years of Xt's are different than XT6's. the wiper transmission is probably one of the hardest to find parts, snag it if you can remove it without breaking it. if it's a 1987.5+ it'll have a spider manifold, snag that. how about get the WHOLE THING, woo hoo!

this brings up a good point - can you tell if it's "left/right" or more central? that would be a big help to know. when they are completely shot (gone) they clunk when giving it gas - torquing the driveline and banging things around. clunk, clunk every time you hit the gas hard. in this case i would guess some of the bushing is still there, so inspect it closely. have you tried you and a buddy pressing (or jumping!) on the bumper really hard and fast?

not sure how the EA81's work but if the intake gaskets have the coolant passages like the EA82's - then usually tons of coolant gets in there. but BLUE definitely sounds like oil. vaccuum, carb, PCV checking time i would think (EA81 and carb idiot that i am talking). if it didn't do this before i wouldn't expect anything serious - just something mixed up. good luck!

me too, me too! in addition to nip's very important questions i'll add some things, first is a test you can easily do - just install a fuse, any fuse like a 10 amp is fine: assuming this is an AWD model trans (you never told us what year, model or engine, trans you have) - install the fuse in the FWD fuse holder on the passengers side rear corner of the engine bay. let us know what happens to the car then. i'd also like to know what previous work has been done to the vehicle? has it ever been towed? any accidents? has the sound always been there, from the first time it did this? is the sound getting worse or has it stayed about the same? does the sound seem central or possibly one side or the other? off the top of my head it sounds like an axle is imploded (like nipper is suggesting) or the front diff is gone. you have an EJ25 96-99 legacy?? always keep in mind - we can't see, hear, touch, smell or lick the car. paint us a picture of what the vehicle is doing minor details of how it acts makes a big difference (because we are that good!).

bad rear strut. exhaust hangers banging, but that should be obvious. one of the numerous bushings shot.

the only EA82's i've worked on had 3 fuel lines just like the EJ stuff so those are easy, not sure what to tell you about yours. i know nothing about carbs, except i don't like them. two holes in the exhaust? they're probably both O2 sensors. most (all?) EJ's have two O2 sensors, one front and one rear.

tried another radiator cap and flushed the coolant. let it run for 15 minutes and after it got up to temps there was a slow and steady trickle of bubbles...like two bubbles/per second in the overflow reservoir. i tried looking up the exhaust ports and i didn't see anything....hmm...maybe i should have turned the engine over by hand a few times? i'll try that later tonight or tomorrow. since i flushed the system i'm going to pick up an exhaust gas tester tomorrow and give that a try. the new heads are in the mail and i'm dropping them off at the machine shop tomorrow no matter what so if i have to i'll do those again.

Carb'ed EA engines: 1-800-444-9707 $250 Idaho Falls 1-208-523-1787 $250 Idaho Falls 775-635-2112 $300 Nevada 1-208-743-9505 $350 Idaho 1-800-452-2623 Eugene Oregon - they say "bent valves" but that's not possible in an EA engine, so maybe you can get it cheap if it's only a broken timing belt? They also have a known good engine, but no price listed.

have you checked/swapped the FPR? if you can't find one, i can send you one.

joost - typically you can just swap the plug as an assembly. the entire plug w/wire will bolt up under the distributor. unbolt those and swap it with the plug from yours. it should be a bolt on affair, but i don't know what disty your spare is from? give it a look, it should swap.

I would guess it's ignition related. Coil? Distributor (has the crank angle sensor in it)? What was the "TPS wiring" you mentioned before?

someone here or on XT6 site mentioned what they're car ran like with a turbo block (but no turbo). but i can't recall they're comments on it. it is possible to swap pistons without cracking the block in an EA82. if the turbo's are that easy to find and you think they're a good fit for you then maybe that's a good solution. rering your EA82T and swap to non turbo positions. I know nothing about trike's or why/how you'd be using it, just keep in mind EA82 Turbo's are very problematic by this age so buyer beware. all of the EA82's i've owned are XT's so they have MPFI and multiple intake ports, but they aren't all like that. not sure of all the possibilities but SPFI's and MPFI's intakes aren't interchargeable. the heads are different between SPFI and MPFI. the blocks are the same though - you can swap whatever heads you want...and therefore any intakes you want if you swap the heads as well.

welcome to USMB - we can help. i'm from Westminster, MD and drove by catonsville every day to work. this is an interference engine, so do not try and start the car with the belt improperly installed. answer this question: was the engine ever attempted to start after the belts were replaced? it sounds like your mechanic installed the timing belt incorrectly (used the wrong marks most likely, like already mentioned). i hate to hear how this is going to get resolved but i hope you're not paying the repair bills and i hope the job is being done correctly. there are numerous links and discussions on this board about exactly how to do the belt properly. i suggest finding those threads and finding the links to the ENDWRENCH (that's subaru's official website) articles showing exactly how to do this job - pictures included and lots of details. now that the heads are off there are two critical things you need to make sure your mechanic does since he obviously is stumbling a bit: 1. make CERTAIN to use Subaru head gaskets. this is "engine specific" information, not "Subaru specific". this isn't true of "all" subaru engines, but it is true of this engine, refuse anything else. the EJ25 has head gasket issues and should not have any other other head gaskets. 2. when refilling the coolant make sure to use the Subaru coolant additive required on all Phase II SOHC EJ25's (that's what engine this is). Subaru requires it. again - this is engine specific, not subaru specific information. 3. and finally make sure he properly bleeds the coolant - this engine can sometimes be a bear to get all the air bubbles out of. i never have a problem, but others seem too. 4. have the valves adjusted now with the heads all off. it's a 100,000 mile item that's a needle in a haystack with the motor in the car. sounds like he's tweaked them a bit anyway. while this is all being done make certain to replace the thermostat and radiator cap as well. cheap coolant system insurance. probably a good idea to print these suggestions out and hand them to him. these are a big deal and will make the difference between having the car another 100,000 trouble free miles and not.

awesome, looking forward to seeing/hearing how it goes for you. i forget what EA82 you have - but if it's a carbed i'd definitely look to upgrade the fuel pump as well. did you get the ECU and trans as well or do you have other plans for those? someone mentioned they are interference engines, if so then i'd inspect/replace any timing pulleys and replace the belt. good luck, keep us updated!

rob has a great point. if there ends up being a possibility of going FI, the EJ series engines are worlds apart from the EA82. and in my area they are actually easier to come by which means easier to find low milegae and in good condition. and no worries about cracked heads which EA82's/EA82T's are very likely to have. much more reliable motors too. some of the down-under guys have converted EJ's to distributor systems so i imagine it's not impossible to run them carbed, they're doing it to run them on propane.

there's more than one type of EA82 turbo. i can't stand it and can't imagine going with horse-and-buggy technology but maybe there's a carb'ed version that would be easiest for you? there's also an EA81 Turbo. that would probably be even better - no timing belts and pulleys and i think they're carbed as well. but they are harder to find. EA82 turbo's need great cooling and start having problems very quickly when they're run hot or out of coolant. so replace any and all hoses and turbo/coolant supply lines you can before installing the engine. probably not a bad idea to replace the head gaskets, intake manifold gaskes and check the heads either.

is the twin turbo block different than the single turbo block? what's the differences pros/cons of these JDM verses the EJ22T? no replacement for displacement?

the easiest tip i can think to give you is to try and narrow down what part of the engine it's coming from to help us help you. passengers side, drivers side, rear or front of engine? either a long wooden dowel rod or a mechanics stethoscope (not expensive at all and nice), put up to your ears will help narrow it down. find out what year EJ22's have HLA's verses solid lifters. if it's HLA's then keep up with the oil changes and hope it goes away. if it has solid lifters then maybe they needed adjusted.

rag as an air filter? if i heard that right, i'd go ahead and work on a better solution to your air filter problem! good eye on the vaccuum hose. that hose should be plugged into that solenoid. as you've probably already seen, it is supposed to connect to that solenoid. those solenoids break rather easily when the engine is being worked on. they're fine if they stand alone and are never touched. but start prying, pulling, hitting it while working on something else and the 20 year old plastic breaks easily. get another used one and swap it out. there's probably guys with dozens of these things lying around that will send you one for cheap - post in the parts wanted thread.