idosubaru

i've done this multiple times before and i'm still struggling with one giving me fits right now. this is an EJ trans, but same issue, very annoying.

no they'll still do it too...there are variables involved and the failure modes may be slightly different than what this poster experienced but usually they vibrate under load...while accelerating, a manual or auto will both do that.

VERY interesting the head gasket kit came with the additive. i'd be comfortable with it (i would like to replace both gaskets) though i can understand you are scarred by the ordeal and "sweet" coolant-like smell will forever draw your attention in this car! CCR has never had an EJ25 come back with head gasket issues. i've seen repeat failures on here, but i would guess that's a function of waiting to long to repair (something you didn't do), or the job wasn't done right.

i already asked on your other thread - is the engine an exact replacement...same year and everything? i would look for a vacuum leak....any vacuum lines not hooked up or got a cut in them? if it's a really bad leak (brake booster line not connected), it won't even start without pumping the gas pedal. so yours would be minor. some starter fluid spray may help find a leak. When you say "start it up again and the same process happens"...do you mean when cold or warm or both? it'll go through the same thing even if you stop it and restart when it's already warmed up? did the car do this before the engine swap? have you read the codes, no CEL? if this thing has a hot wire style MAF, pull it and look at the thin wires in the air flow. you're looking for a broken strand.

everything has been replaced except the heater core - radiator cap as well...more than once too. i'm positive it's not the thermostat. What is a good way to verify temps? Install another gauge (not a huge fan of that idea)...laser temp gauge, i've always wanted one of those. how would i use it? when, what part of engine, what temps am i looking for, etc? the temp gauge is very consistent...it shows cool when my cabin air temps are cool and goes up when climbing a mountain...it's very consistent, predictable, in the same range as the other XT6's i've owned (which is a lot), goes up with the A/C on. but i'd like to check. dye and a UV light -there's no coolant loss and i've never done that before. what would i be looking for, what would it show? for the past year and a half i keep thinking the head gaskets will finally show themselves, but that isn't the case. i've put 30,000+ miles on this thing and drive it all over the place. noticed while driving - when coasting down a hill (not under load).....my air temps cool down significantly....then when going up a hill it gets nice and toasty hot. flow or pressure problems...

Subaru only for the PCV - they will have it in stock. as for valve cover gaskets, i'd use those from anywhere (Fel-Pro's are easy to find and everywhere), but i'd get the kits that have the grommets with them. the grommets are very expensive, over $2 each i believe (from auto parts stores, online, or Subaru). Some valve cover sets dont have the grommets, some do.

definitely not. heater core flush is in order though as connie mentioned on the xt forums. that would tell for sure if it's heater core related or poor flow related. with my hot running issues on hot summer days i'm expecting poor flow....or "hoping"???

some update on my mysterious cooling issue. no coolant loss, car runs and drives fine and does not over heat or run hot in the winter. what i've noticed this winter - when idling the "heat" will get rather cool, just warm, not hot at all. if i raise the RPM's while sitting still the heat immediately gets hot coming out of the vents. normally i would just think the heater core is clogged...but since it does run too hot in the summer could something be related here? EVERYTHING cooling related has been replaced except the heater core. new thermostats (multiple times), new radiator, flushed out new radiator, radiator worked fine on another XT6, new Subaru hoses, new water pump. so.....could this be a case of a bad water pump? is that possible for a water pump not to move enough fluid? it's a new Paraut water pump from rock auto.

i forgot about this...Subaru offered an additive "conditioner" for the 2000-2002 EJ25's to "help" with the head gasket issues. i've heard of it helping. that may be something to consider now. best to replace both on an engine like this, very few people familiar with this would only replace one. the good thing is with externally leaking EJ25's (2000+ MY), it's not a failure that will leave you sitting...or shouldn't if you catch the signs (like you did). now the 96-2000's....those suck when they blow. bizarre that they would charge you significantly more to replace both gaskets. everything has to come off anyway...timing components, intake, exhaust, there's not much too it to get the remaining head gasket replaced.

the real issue is how your insurance company will proceed. some will just cut you the check and you do what you want. some will do whatever they can to pay actual costs. and there are other options available to them in between. it all depends how they proceed from here, each is different and even one company may differ according to various other factors - location, policy holder, policy type, vehicle type...etc.

mechanics don't mind telling you the results of compression tests, check engine lights, vacuum tests, leak down test, dye tests...etc. it's just numbers. no more than a doctor telling you your blood pressure. they just aren't used to people knowing what any of that stuff is, but they're usually excited to talk to someone that has some intelligence in those areas. i'm not a gear head. i happen to know a fair amount about subarus...and dozens of other things. cars aren't that complicated, those tests are basic. having a good mechanic is nice, most people do not. for us, when you can't see, hear, taste, or smell a vehicle it's very difficult to guess. that's why we ask questions and details. so why have a bunch of people who can't see or touch it guess without information when you can have a trusted mechanic you love that has the car right in front of him to do whatever he wants. we usually assume people are asking because they don't know how to proceed or if they're getting hosed or not.

might be good to give exactly what the old (which we already know) and new motors are from. year, vehicle, auto/manual.

dismissing an entire manufacturer over one episode really limits you in the future. it's anecdotal and not the best way to make decisions. it's more indicative of a personality type than it is a good, well informed, decision making process that is best for you. essentially you could rule out every manufacturer on the planet - there is no company that has a 100% success rate in building vehicles that never, ever fail. japanese companies out pace the rest in this area. your 2004 EJ25 has a very good track record, it's unfortunate you got what you did. i didn't hear any details of leakage points or proper testing. i'm also hoping your mechanic didn't "assume" it was a head gasket due to the 2002 and prior EJ25 head gaskets. these had issues (and is why there are certain ones with extended 100,000 mile warranty coverage - that Subaru will honor - and why yours doesn't fall in the range). i would not be surprised if your mechanic assumed it was a head gasket because it's an "EJ25", not realizing that newer ones don't have those same issues. as good as he may be there are millions of hours of subaru specific experience on this board that easily trump his shop. that's the value of a board like this that can offer vehicle, engine, and transmission specific information and trends. good luck with the future, i don't blame you for avoiding audi's though! not a fan of those...or any german cars at this point!

something sounds wrong here. can you give more information? what you told us so far doesn't make any sense - head gasket leaks and valve train damage do not make sense at all. how do they know it's the head gasket?

what kind of horsepower, useage, how many miles do you want to put on it? whatever you can get out of an old school EA engine will be fine....150hp or more. if this is for an EJ swap, then swap the trans as well. there's a ton of variables and it's not asymptotic, but parabolic or something....in other words.....it's not like there's a magic number where at 234 hp it's fine and at 235 they break. so that makes your question unanswerable on one hand...or if it is answerable everyone will give a different one based on where they'd chop the curve...keeping in mind everyone's "curve" is different since this won't come down to quantitative measurements at all.

replace the rubber gasket under the cap and replace the PCV. i've replace the rubber gasket under the cap, it's available but i don't have any part numbers for it, i think they even come in some head gasket sets. anyway, Subaru should have it or cut your own like nipper said. also - oil coming out of the oil filler tube can cause a fire, don't ask me how i know. you can ask any fire department, they're quite familiar with it. it will likely start some time after the car is turned off as that is when the outer extremities get the hottest....again, don't ask how i know.....

that's really new/low mileage for any of the "typical" causes of something like this.

you are correct in that the only thing that matters is that the cam and crank marks line up. and of course that it's the right belt...which it sounds like it is. if something was off i would imagine you'd notice right away. very odd that the marks didn't line up and it had the proper tooth count. i think timing belts fit multiple applications (EJ22 and EJ18 for instance)...but maybe the marks are different between the motors? don't know.

while I have seen new wires cause this, i do agree that there's a good chance new wires won't fix it. particularly being NAPA brand, i've never seen them, but would think they are better than others. a simple wire swap should take less than one minute and cost nothing. reset the codes and see if it "moves" with the wires.

i have seen NEW aftermarket wires cause cylinder misfire codes. replace the wires and codes go away. others have had it happen as well. this isn't Subaru specific - it's EJ engine specific, they are not forgiving engines when it comes to ignition wires. i can't promise this is your problem, but i have seen it before....hopefully someone can help you diagnose more to pinpoint it. the wire swap should help show a bad wire.

INFO - vehicle? mileage? any prior history...axle, trans, engine work..etc? It only does this at 70+ mph? What if you romp it going slower? How about transmission fluid change, has that ever been done? And replace the filter if it's a 1998+ model. A clunk when down shifting is often bushing related...rear differential or transmission mount. Doesn't seem to be the case here though. Is your AWD and trans working properly otherwise?

GAH!! hold on! do not assume this is a head gasket problem. you need to search the boards here and have a second opinion. i see no mention of testing, information, diagnosis, so they're probably wrong. there are quite a few mentions of "coolant" smell in late model EJ25's, this isn't a head gasket issue. not sure what it is, but others have mentioned it.

agreed - i definitely see more EJ25's with failed bearings than EJ22's. which is odd considering EJ22's tend to be older (been around far longer) and have more miles/abuse...... i would also recommend the rebuild if the price difference is indeed that small.

i'd leave it if it was replaced properly. make sure the pilot bearing, throw out bearing and clips were all replaced 20,000 miles ago, anything that wasn't should be, they are very cheap and access is already granted. if you wear the clutch for some reason then replace it, otherwise it should be fine. yes you can. wear isn't the main problem, it is lack of grease. and yes you can tell a lack of grease by feel or listening to them. at this age/mileage i would doubt none of them need replaced. at least the bottom sprocketed pulley should be replaced, and probably more. personally with this much money going into an interference engine i would replace them. but then again i buy the cheap ebay kits, not high dollar dealer stuff on these items. at 200,000 you're expecting the original pulleys to go another 100,000, that's a lot. just tell him he's wrong and people that know more about subaru's than he does are helping you. i run into the same thing but the opposite way...i'll help someone with a vehicle and it won't make sense to me because i'm used to subaru's, that is about all i do, at least to an in depth extent. what you are experiencing is completely normal for an EJ25 leak. rather than rehash it here, you can revisit the "why EJ25 headgaskets fail" threads, there's one really good one...and others as well.

i've never said that, if i implied it i apologize. these motors do make 200,000 without blowing the head gaskets. replacing the head gaskets is a very reliable solution. i'm all about CCR, but with financial concerns and a 200,000 mile car i would not feel the least bit concerned recommending having the head gaskets replaced. for the cost of a CCR engine maybe you'd expect to make 400,000 miles...it could happen but i bet the odds are stacked against you...accidents, transmission issues, drive train, ujoints, rust, paint, and most annoying the suspension will start to wear on you (bushings all over the place, struts, etc...). there's a lot that can happen over that amount of time and mileage. or you could replace the headgaskets and have a good chance of the engine lasting as long as you want to keep the car anyway. i'm all about CCR but if finances are a concern i'd consider this. a very important part of this decision is how much you trust the person doing the work....are thy looking out for you or making a buck? are they going to do a good job. if you're confident with that, i would be confident with the head gasket replacement.