idosubaru

i know you said "in general" but to avoid confusion they won't have new XT6 radiators.

it's possible to make this work, i know someone that has done it. he is supposed to send me some tips/instructions but haven't yet. i only have a few bits and pieces from exchanging emails with him, here is the most detailed i have (XT6 and EA bellhousings are identical): "To make the legacy trans fit the XT6 you actually have to change the front housing due to the bolt pattern. However you can actually use the legacy series diff. I actually pulled the front off and used the original XT6 diff as it has 3.7 ratio and 1:1 drive ratio. The Ej series uses a 1.1:1 ratio. and i didnt have the correct rear legacy diff." i emailed him again....

it's currently running great, so i'm not trying anything else. i've put quite a few miles on it and traveled through a number of states.

details of what you're doing help understand the question better, future people to solve problems and fix things and add to the board.

yes he is.

are you sure it's only got first gear and isn't just running in limp mode - which would be 3rd? if it's in 1st it's not good for very fast, but 3rd is capable of 60, 70, 80 mph. was the transmission removed for the job? give us as much background as possible, if it was i would check and make sure the harness is fully seated and none of the pins were bent.

leak down test time. - can you do a compression and leak down test on it, that's what i think needs to happen here. you've got some REALLY bad luck with subaru's! that is strange that you have two doing something that i can't really ever recall seeing before (in experience or on the boards). odd indeed. bottoming out sounds like it might be a good call, but the leak down test should be performed to see where it's going.

it's up to you. depends how skilled you are or how much $$$$ you want to put into it. thanks for the well-wishing skip! okay i think i missed the plural part of this question...you want to swap the front differential as well? do you know anything about that? rear diff = super easy. front diff = probably one of the tougher jobs to do yourself. it makes timing belt jobs look like beginners work and head gaskets appealing. if you're paying someone else to do it ($$), then no worries and continue on. to do it yourself, the "easiest" solution would be to swap in an entire transmission with a 4.44 final drive rather than trying to swap front differentials. if you didn't know this already then you're probably best off paying a shop to do this job.

i don't think so because it's only "newer" vehicles from what i'm seeing, which isn't much since front diffs don't blow that often. i've seen quite a few "newer" EJ stuff say 1996-2002 with blown front diffs, a couple last year. i actually can't recall seeing any pre-1995 with blown front diffs, which is even more odd by the fact that an older car with a blown diff is more likely to hit the selling block and be more visible than a newer vehicle.

GAH! (slaps head) Automatic FWD transmission. So only the front diff - edited my first post.

i assume you already know that the rear diff ratio needs to match the front diff? not sure on your question but i have a hunch you won't have any issues. why is the title "98-2003" but you mention 99-2001 in the thread? are you looking for an LSD style? are they clutch or viscous LSD?

Front differential - Redline 75w90? Where do you get that stuff?

AH - incorrect information alert, someone save the future noobs that will read this!!! this is not true and should be edited to avoid confusion. subaru's do not require head bolt replacement. there is more than one kind of head bolt and Subaru's do not need to be replaced every time. do some reading online about head bolts, torque to yield and other similar reads to learn more. but you're possibly steering him in the wrong direction. at this point he really does not need to be guessing. TCAT - think you need to find out where you're using coolant. leak down test that thing. have you noticed a compromise in the head gasket when removing the blown ones? if not, it might not be your head gasket. i doubt new bolts will fix your issues. is there a chance the cylinder sleeves are shifting (they can come loose) or there's a crack in the block?

how's the plastic plug that plugs into the alternator? is that in good shape, clean, and good connection? i agree with nip, many place now test for free- Advanced, Auto Zone...etc, find one that does and pay them a visit. they will test your alt and battery. i'm also in agreement that you'll probably need another alternator. remember - XT6 alternators are now approaching 20 years old and most have been overworked by sub-par charging systems and battery failures by now...$1,000 cars don't get top notch quality care. that is awesome though...fuel gauge...only when the p/s blinker it on...whacky.

if this is an XT6 you have another option - leave it out. maybe spending isn't high priority right now. an XT6 runs fine without an O2 sensor. if you're having running issues without an O2 sensor, the sensor is not going to fix your problems. the sensor should be replaceable with the exhaust installed, i've never removed exhaust to replace an O2 sensor on an XT6. Gloyale is correct, the threads are the same as spark plug threads. spark plug thread chasers are very common and many people have them. try to borrow one, rent one, or buy one (maybe they're cheaper than typical taps)? you might even try force threading an old spark plug in there and see how it does...if you can get it to go again, then toss the O2 in there.

hey, if we're going to dig up old posts at least it's ones with some humor in it...WOW, even his name is censored!!! i thought 40,000 miles in one year made for interesting numbers....for him, averaging 50mph (probably too high)....that's 20,000 hours....800+ 24/7 days straight.....and probably over $100,000 in gas....more like a quarter million in gas these days.

you wouldn't use "squealing or clicking" at all to describe the noise? steering has no affect on it either? do you know if the axle has ever been replaced? FWD, AWD, auto, or manual - and how many miles? if i had to guess right now it sounds like bearings on their way out....but i'm not confident with that on what i've read so far either.

So skip, you didn't notice any running differences with it unplugged like that? If it's an automatic, did it shift fine disconnected? was that a minute? you already did! for real, no problem, that's great it was a simple fix.

sounds like a cool idea, but i wouldn't use a harbor freight pump. i love the place but you definitely have to keep in mind the quality of many of the items they sell. how do you deal with the old water pump - gut one and leave the housing so you can retain the flow paths? is there a problem with the stock pumps? doesn't seem like there's anything to gain here.

the EJ18 is easy to find and cheap. EJ20 is not. EJ18's can be bought for next to nothing.

AH - call those idiots back! i can't believe these stupid company's won't update their information. you just paid $50 more than you had to for an EA82 radiator, cancel it and go buy one for under $100 shipped. if you want a new XT6 radiator call them and cancel the order. this is not an XT6 radiator. you can either listen to the guy on the phone who's never seen an XT6 or the moderator of an XT6 forum who's owned more than 20. what you will receive is an EA82 radiator. it's smaller, the hose sizes are dinky and the bottom bracket wont' fit in your XT6. that can all be overcome and the radiator made to fit though if you want that over priced EA82 radiator in there. the only source for XT6 radiators is Subaru and for around $300. i've tried having them made and it's never worked out, they've always complained about the plastic tanks and said they couldn't recore it. i've gotten quotes for $500+ for making one.

ha! another joke you missed, someone else called skip a dummie: now don't do it again!

quit calling my friend skip a dummie! awesome skip, that's sweet! it runs fine like that? from memory i believe there's a T fitting from that hose you can see in the same picture. looks like yours might not have it. the hose i'm speaking of is the one facing the passengers seat parallel to the ground so to speak, at least coming out of the intake it's || to the ground. this hose should have a T fitting that your filter hose connects to.

the hose from that solenoid also has a small in-line filter in route to the intake, it is about 1" circular in shape and has a foam covering. that being clogged will set of the CEL. the only time i've seen it was a EGR code, but i think in my dealings with that i saw mention of the P0106 related sensor you're referring to.

i didn't know that, just replying to the flywheel comment. then that post still stands, just flexplate instead of flywheel. ah, the TC is that hard to get too huh? even with a long socket extension?