idosubaru

AH - incorrect information alert, someone save the future noobs that will read this!!! this is not true and should be edited to avoid confusion. subaru's do not require head bolt replacement. there is more than one kind of head bolt and Subaru's do not need to be replaced every time. do some reading online about head bolts, torque to yield and other similar reads to learn more. but you're possibly steering him in the wrong direction. at this point he really does not need to be guessing. TCAT - think you need to find out where you're using coolant. leak down test that thing. have you noticed a compromise in the head gasket when removing the blown ones? if not, it might not be your head gasket. i doubt new bolts will fix your issues. is there a chance the cylinder sleeves are shifting (they can come loose) or there's a crack in the block?

how's the plastic plug that plugs into the alternator? is that in good shape, clean, and good connection? i agree with nip, many place now test for free- Advanced, Auto Zone...etc, find one that does and pay them a visit. they will test your alt and battery. i'm also in agreement that you'll probably need another alternator. remember - XT6 alternators are now approaching 20 years old and most have been overworked by sub-par charging systems and battery failures by now...$1,000 cars don't get top notch quality care. that is awesome though...fuel gauge...only when the p/s blinker it on...whacky.

if this is an XT6 you have another option - leave it out. maybe spending isn't high priority right now. an XT6 runs fine without an O2 sensor. if you're having running issues without an O2 sensor, the sensor is not going to fix your problems. the sensor should be replaceable with the exhaust installed, i've never removed exhaust to replace an O2 sensor on an XT6. Gloyale is correct, the threads are the same as spark plug threads. spark plug thread chasers are very common and many people have them. try to borrow one, rent one, or buy one (maybe they're cheaper than typical taps)? you might even try force threading an old spark plug in there and see how it does...if you can get it to go again, then toss the O2 in there.

hey, if we're going to dig up old posts at least it's ones with some humor in it...WOW, even his name is censored!!! i thought 40,000 miles in one year made for interesting numbers....for him, averaging 50mph (probably too high)....that's 20,000 hours....800+ 24/7 days straight.....and probably over $100,000 in gas....more like a quarter million in gas these days.

you wouldn't use "squealing or clicking" at all to describe the noise? steering has no affect on it either? do you know if the axle has ever been replaced? FWD, AWD, auto, or manual - and how many miles? if i had to guess right now it sounds like bearings on their way out....but i'm not confident with that on what i've read so far either.

So skip, you didn't notice any running differences with it unplugged like that? If it's an automatic, did it shift fine disconnected? was that a minute? you already did! for real, no problem, that's great it was a simple fix.

sounds like a cool idea, but i wouldn't use a harbor freight pump. i love the place but you definitely have to keep in mind the quality of many of the items they sell. how do you deal with the old water pump - gut one and leave the housing so you can retain the flow paths? is there a problem with the stock pumps? doesn't seem like there's anything to gain here.

the EJ18 is easy to find and cheap. EJ20 is not. EJ18's can be bought for next to nothing.

AH - call those idiots back! i can't believe these stupid company's won't update their information. you just paid $50 more than you had to for an EA82 radiator, cancel it and go buy one for under $100 shipped. if you want a new XT6 radiator call them and cancel the order. this is not an XT6 radiator. you can either listen to the guy on the phone who's never seen an XT6 or the moderator of an XT6 forum who's owned more than 20. what you will receive is an EA82 radiator. it's smaller, the hose sizes are dinky and the bottom bracket wont' fit in your XT6. that can all be overcome and the radiator made to fit though if you want that over priced EA82 radiator in there. the only source for XT6 radiators is Subaru and for around $300. i've tried having them made and it's never worked out, they've always complained about the plastic tanks and said they couldn't recore it. i've gotten quotes for $500+ for making one.

ha! another joke you missed, someone else called skip a dummie: now don't do it again!

quit calling my friend skip a dummie! awesome skip, that's sweet! it runs fine like that? from memory i believe there's a T fitting from that hose you can see in the same picture. looks like yours might not have it. the hose i'm speaking of is the one facing the passengers seat parallel to the ground so to speak, at least coming out of the intake it's || to the ground. this hose should have a T fitting that your filter hose connects to.

the hose from that solenoid also has a small in-line filter in route to the intake, it is about 1" circular in shape and has a foam covering. that being clogged will set of the CEL. the only time i've seen it was a EGR code, but i think in my dealings with that i saw mention of the P0106 related sensor you're referring to.

i didn't know that, just replying to the flywheel comment. then that post still stands, just flexplate instead of flywheel. ah, the TC is that hard to get too huh? even with a long socket extension?

on more than one occassion i've seen oil seals pouring out oil. probably 3 or 4 times. it will gush right out of those seals like the exxon valdez. i've seen oil pump shaft seal and crank seals both do it (yes, same thing on EJ engines)....it just dumps right out, steady stream on the ground. in one case the crank seal was wobbling in the housing, i don't know how it didn't pop all the way out.

yes it's essentially what i was referring to in my first post: point being it's like any other engine, the manuals have the same access hole in the bell housing. i would try it in gear with brakes on first though.

i'll add that some EJ's also have an oring behind the cam caps that hold the cam seals. i can't recall if the EJ25 DOHC has those or not but replace them if it does. they won't be your pouring problem but they do leak over time and at your age/mileage it's time to replace them...plus you're right in there anyway and i think it's only 2 bolts to replace them.

yes 4 cam seals and the crank seal and the oil pump sealant. Subaru recommends Anaerobic sealant which is the best to use here but use RTV - that just runs the risk of coagulating in the oil supply if too much is used or put in the wrong place. with the oil pump off you'll want to check all the screws on the rear backing plate - you can't miss them. they tend to come loose, just locktite them and reinstall. i'd go ahead and replace your belt if you don't know. being an interference engine, bad mojo ($$$$) if the belt breaks. look up the endwrench article on doing an EJ25 DOHC timing belt job, print that out, it's Subaru's tech articles, very helpful and straight forward. read through it.

that's a good assessment. the 4EAT transmission in this legacy is very reliable for an automatic. if you don't overheat the ATF or run them out of fluid they will last quite a while. the biggest detriment right now isn't the transmission it's time. there's 15 years for things like poor maintenance, mismatched tires, improper towing, overheated or lack of ATF....etc. it's not really that unheard of for an automatic to fail at 150k but they can certainly last longer. while very reliable for an automatic, they still aren't as reliable as a manual trans. the positive side of the bad news is that they rarely just fail and quit working, you should have signs well ahead of time if it does. and they are very easy to find for cheap, at least around here they are. it's because they're reliable that there's plenty of used transmissions out there for sale, keeping the prices low. i picked one up last year for $150 with 100,000 miles on it.

you checked for something obvious like the oil filter?

good luck, hope you figure something out with it. here's an important question - this isn't regarding your XT6 is it? the FSM's for the XT6 are dead wrong. i think you're talking about the EA82 - which i'd want to verify is correct. i imagine it would be though, but would want to know for sure since the XT6 one is impossible to meet FSM spec's. then there's always this:

no not all the seals - you have one compromised seal. if the timing covers are wet it's going to be a cam seal, crank seal, or the oil pump seal (anaerobic sealant). most likely it's one of the seals and will be obvious once the timing covers are off...or at least should be obvious. actually it doesn't matter you should replace them all once you're in there anyway since you have to remove the timing belt to get to them. silly to remove it, replace one seal that's leaking and neglect the other seals that only cost a couple dollars each and are right there in front of you with the timing belt off. Subaru charges $699 (last quote i saw) for a timing belt change....so replacing one seal for $700...only to have another one start leaking at the end of the year is silly when they're only a few dollars each. many, including myself, replace all of the seals with every timing belt job on EJ25's. with a timing belt change interval of 105,000 miles you're expecting the seals to last 200,000 miles if you don't replace them, it can happen but it's a bit risky (as you're finding out). when was the timing belt replaced and how many miles on the car? get a new timing belt if there's any chance this oil got on the belt. i installed a new timing belt last year that only lasted a few months and not even 10,000 miles due to getting oil on it from a leaking seal. the oil compromises the seal. no big deal for my buddy, i just installed a new belt when it broke. on your car though - the 2.5 is an interference engine and will sustain internal engine damage if the timing belt breaks.

this is a tough one, very open ended without much information. what motor - EA82? what kind of driving are you doing, what transmission?how's the acceleration and performance, everything is normal, no check engine lights? plugs wires, cap, and rotor. air filter, fuel filter, O2 sensor, timing set properly? brakes could be dragging..not seized or bad in any way, just dragging. i've seen vehicles get a few mpg better after a brake job eventhough everything was working fine. grease the pins properly - with brake specific grease.

not sure on the lube but a last resort might be to crack open any tie rod end at the parts store and they usually come with grease i believe (at least the few i've replaced do on american vehicles). read the pack, i doubt it's anything particular. if there's any suspicion at all that it's weak or warn i would not just replace the boot, replace the tie rod as well. i already said it but a tie rod busting can be insanely dangerous...you're talking about one of the most dangerous situations here. this is not one area to take any chances.

subaru steering racks are very resilient and reliable. i would leave it. they very rarely fail and the only significant issues they have is leaking...which yours isn't doing yet, so i would not replace the entire rack. assuming the knock is the inner tie rod, replace it. tie rods are way too important and dangerous to not replace if they are bad. a friend of mines broke while driving in the fall (not a subaru), it was a bit scarry, he was following me. as for replacing the rack, i think most experienced Subaru people would recommend doing that, but we'll see as others chime in. i would feel more confident with your rack...knowing that it's been in constant use, well taken care of (until this boot!) and continuously properly lubed, as well as not leaking than some rack that was in an accident, ended up in a junk yard and has been sitting and drying out the seals and collecting dust for who knows how long.

good point, i really didn't do it justice at all!