idosubaru

false.

DUDE! thanks for the heads up, i'm glad i said something. is that going towards GB or away from GB?

is it an automatic or manual? it seems likely that it's a FWD since you don't note any obvious 4WD indicators...like pushbutton, badges, or anything else. you can't tell by driving it - does it ever "peel out" "screech tires" or "get stuck"? but there are a few possibilities. the vehicle may have one time been an AWD and is now a FWD. it may be an AWD with the rear stuff removed...depends what "she looked at between the legs". it's possible to remove the rear diff and axles and still drive it. it could be a FWD. or maybe there are mutliple VIN's on your car (unlikely). where did you pull the VIN from? is it identical everywhere? there's the unlikely chance that the part you pulled the VIN from is different than the rest of the car....like the dash, etc.

it's a joke....TEN THOUSAND POSTS...would you rather buy from someone who's made one post here or ten thousand? and 69 trader ratings....i think he's been around a while and is reliable. ha ha! i would tell him how big you need and see if he can do it. if he has vector formatted images, or equivalents, he can do anything you want. and McBrat if that's something you would like to have let me know and I can probably help. it's good for making large things, like a sign company would need for instance to make large signs or stickers.

gatlinburg..nice, i'll be there tomorrow. anyway, a board member here dyno'ed his XT6 (EA82 + 2 more cylinders) through intake, exhaust, cam, and timing changes. the timing change made the largest hp improvement so says the machine. i forget what he bumped it but he has to run 93 octane which you're already doing.

there's two types of low range, one is rather insignificant i believe just from reading on here. if you need low range that bad maybe you want to make sure it's the best one? i don't know anything about them except what i read here.

not being able to see or hear it we need the best description and details you can muster. but...that being said and me being a psychic, you have a bad axle. find the broken CV boot and yank the axle around. any play? if not, pack some grease in there by hand, pushing it in and all over as best as you can behind the busted boot. if it gets a little better (noise or vibrations), then you just found your problem. it could be so bad that no amount of grease will help though. replace the axle with a good used or new Subaru axle or MWE axle only. don't buy any aftermarket junk. you should investigate immediately. if this is an axle it could destroy your speedometer gear inside the transmission with all that vibrating and the only way to fix it is to replace the transmission...or do a tear down of the trans, which most people don't opt for. either way, yanking a transmission = no fun in my book...particularly when replacing the axle could avoid it. on the passengers side the axle is only a couple inches away from the plastic speedometer gear inside the front diff, all of that vibration can break it (don't ask how i know). other possible options if it's not your axle...sounds like you're leaving many things unattended...are wheel bearings, wheel out of balance, a very bad ball joint, steering rack bushings, tie rod ends. should be very obvious by pushing/pulling or looking.

here's a $64 example done by a buddy of mine with Walmart paint and some semi-proper sanding: http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1440&highlight=dollar

i've never seen one like that. could it have had damage prior that you just didn't see? i wonder if it previously bent some valves due to a timing belt escapade? i'd probably use it, based on the comments of these guys, and if by inspection the pits are all within the headgasket sealing surfaces.

i'm with GD's sentiments in general. right off the bat you'll probably need to consider timing belts, water pump, and some seals that go along with a proper tbelt/wpump job. looks like yo'ure not doing the work yourself and that Ej25 timing belt job could run close to $1,000 or more. it's a necessity too as this is an interference engine so if the timing belt breaks you have engine damage. ATF change should be in order as well. it's possible to buy one that's had these items addressed though, so keep that in mind. any 8 year old car is likely to have issues...noises, belts, ball joints, CV axles (often on a subaru), wheel bearings, brakes, knock sensor, fluids...etc. yes, it's possible to get one that doesn't have many problems for many years and miles, but that's less likely that it is likely with any vehicle that's got some years/miles on it. so i guess it depends what the "+" means...2008 is a 2000+! as for the "poor design" comment, that's common too. auto manufacturers have thousands of design points...it's easy for one to be missed or not take the rigors of weather, years, and mileage. most vehicles have some minor "poor design" areas like that, particularly when the age and mileage starts to push the weaker areas. it's all statistics...of course you *could* get one that has zero issues...a VW or Subaru.

i should have an IAC or three, if i can remember to check once i'm home.

i don't know, i mean there's some but it's minor..gets flung off (thanks nip!), etc. definitely nothing worth ruining your timing belts over by trying to clean them with a solvent. this is really simple and i already said it, if it is getting dirty, install covers! my wife's impreza OBS has nice, clean, black timing belt covers.

if they're getting dirty you need covers. don't get anything on the belts, it reduces their life span. spraying/coating/cleaning is probably a bad thing for the belts. if you get new covers, just attach them with zip ties through the bolt holes that way you don't have to worry about those stupid bolts seizing, rusting, and turning in place the next time you go to remove them. i run without covers and haven't had any problems with mine getting dirty for years.

i would replace the other one. the dealer is "not replacing it" because it's not leaking and they're not required too. but the proper thing to do is replace it. think of it this way...it's a high risk item, it's the same block, same heads, assembled by the same line, at the same time, same parts....and one cut loose on you. the only good thing about yours is that, unlike the 96-99 EJ25's, they leak externally and don't typically overheat/leave you stranded. you get fair warnings and time to plan ahead or get home. you're right, at least the ones i've asked. they don't pull it. all of the people claiming "pulling engine is faster" are not right...notice i didn't say they're wrong! the level of difficulty depends on the person and tools available. but the quickest way, if you have the right person and tools, is with the engine in the car and that's how the dealers do it, at least the ones i've talked to.

this is too open ended if you're looking for functional responses. if it's arm chair talk, then tear it up. but i'm an engineer so i stick to functionality. price, duty, reliability, mileage...etc will make a HUGE difference.

that wasn't a stab at you at all, just a verification that it needs to be done right. your familiarity with subaru's and even how that job should be done are much higher than the person i know that did it. it also aids in the reluctance i have of doing that job myself.

hey nip. the rear EJ stuff i've seen can be a real nightmare when the bolts won't come out or shear off. it's not a bad job, but if you have any rust issues or suspect that long bolt to be a problem this might not be a fun one for you. actually...i'm fortunate enough that ever rear EJ work i've done has been a total PITA. sheared bolts everywhere.

i only know of one person that has done this to an XT6 - i gave him the differential to do it. it didn't last very long, i assume he didn't get something set right.

i edited it, was thinking of a 4WD-2WD conversion where you pull the axles out of the front and have to seal the hubs. obviously not needed in the rears! i've never tried to use Legacy struts, so i was going on feedback from someone else on that. i edited the strut info as well. that's what happens when you type it up at 4am in the morning. you mentioned pre-1999 - what does that mean about the 2000+ legacy's? the reaming the control arm comment is just a goofy "disclaimer".if they're confident they have the tools to do it right, they'll do it, if they're not they won't. if i "really" thought no one should do it, i wouldn't mention it. just for you, i edited it. i'm trying to create a comprehensive list here, not just "what gary has seen". i do not know every single combination or possibility but i do know the old write ups are lacking in scope. actually some of the issues you mention are still in the old write up (EA82 tie rods) and no one ever corrected that. helpful suggestions work better than negative commentary.

as for starting, you need to try to jump it and let us know what happens. as for getting it out of park - there is a way to get it out, i believe somewhere at the base or under the parking selector cover is a access hole or something to get it out. check your owners manual, it should mention it. or do a search on this forum i know it's been covered before.

Usually sensors do throw a CEL if they're out of range as skip says. I've seen a couple times where a bad sensor never caused a CEL but did cause problems with the car. i doubt this is your issue though. i would change the fluid if it hasn't been changed recently. it does sound like something transmission related. i'd swap the TCU, but mostly because it's easy and i have extras. is your POWER or transmission light blinking 16 times on start up? that's the TCU's "CEL" equivalent, telling you there's a stored code. last fall mine started something similar and got worse. it would run fine for 10 - 15 minutes and then start sticking in gears. at first it would take awhile to get out of second. then it took awhile to get out of first. finally it would not come out of first. here's what i did. as a last resort, if it gets worse you can unplug your transmission harness and run it. it will always be in third gear and the 4WD will be "locked". i powered the Duty Solenoid C which controls 4WD lock up so it's not binding anymore. so now i'm just always in 3rd gear, been driving for a while like that including a few highway trips.

I attempted to put together a comprehensive set of notes for the XT site since there's a number of confusing options that some members have run into recently...2WD/4WD, turbo/nonturbo, air suspension, EJ or XT6. It could use some tweaking but i've already spent a TON of time that i probably don't have on it. I figured it could be useful here. 5 Lug Conversion Update Read the “Variations” list at the bottom to see if any of the additional notes apply to you. Front: Control arms. XT6 control arms. XT6 and Impreza ball joints are identical. Subaru ball joint part # 21067GA050. If using an XT6 control arm, get the bolt that holds the arm to the vehicle. Some EA82's will require drilling the holes out bigger for the XT6 bolt. It is also possible to ream out the EA82 control arm to accept the XT6/Impreza ball joint. Hubs: XT6 hubs or EJ hubs. Sruts: XT6 struts or Impreza struts. (You can mix and match XT6/EJ hubs and struts but the lower strut mount will require some tweaking if you don’t keep them the same.) Axles: (Non-turbo see notes below) Turbo's Only: XT6 axles (or EA82 Turbo axles) for XT6 hubs. EJ axles for EJ hubs. Tie Rods: XT6 or EJ tie rod ends - Subaru part #'s 31320GA190 RHS and 31320GA200 LHS. EA82 tie rods are a bit short but might work. Brakes: XT6 calipers, brackets and rotors. 1999 Chevy Cavalier rotors are a much cheaper and easy to find equivalent. EJ brake notes below. Rear: XT6 rear hub assemblies (2WD notes below) ***NOTE*** For Impreza or EJ stuff mentioned above, hubs and struts should be from a 1993-2001 Impreza, including WRX up to 04 STi. Legacy hubs should work to up to 2004 at least, so the options are wide. Variations: The following are various items that may affect the above list: *** Non-turbo EA82’s***FWD Manual Impreza transmissions have an axle that should work - 1993 should do the trick. Non turbo EA82's have 23 spline inner axle joint (all XT6's, EJ's, and Turbo EA82's have 25 spline and there's no issue). The FWD manual impreza axle also has a 23 spline inner. Another option is to build your own axle...swapping the inner non Turbo joint onto whatever axle you want to use - XT6, Turbo EA or EJ axle. If you have an automatic transmission the axle stubs pop out, they just pull right out and pop back in. This being the case, you might be able to pull out your non-turbo splined stubby shafts and install turbo splined stubby shaft. Then just follow the directions above - using axles to match whatever hub you're using. This little trick isn't possible on manual trans as the stubs don't pull out. ***2WD*** If your EA82 is 2WD you will either need 2WD XT6 rear hubs or use entire 4WD XT6 rear hub assemblies (trailing arms and all) ***Air suspension note*** If you want to retain air suspension you will need XT6 front air struts or to see if Legacy front air struts will work. I am also told the Legacy air struts are too large for the EA82 strut towers as well, like the note above about EJ struts. ***Brake options*** For EJ brakes up front you will need to do a rear ebrake conversion as well via Nissan 200SX rear calipers. EJ brakes do not have the emergency brake up front, so converting to front EJ brakes essentially removes your emergency brake. I am assuming that someone doing this swap knows they need NEW WHEELS!

grossgary (@) yahoo (dot) com

so fill as far as mounting non-heated leather seats in an XT6 - looks like it was fairly simple? i got my LLBean Limited Outback heated seats today. they'll go in my Legacy and the original gray (non heated) leather Legacy seats will go in my XT6.

i'll have to ask more when i get there, but i'll be bolting the XT6 front diff to the EJ transmission. i take it that's not a direct swap - remove EJ front diff and install XT6 front diff? i'll do as much as i can myself if it's straight forward and easy, then have the shop double check the backlash. i'm not interested in spending a ton of time on it so if it gets intense i'll pay someone else. do they do that with the entire transmission in hand bolted back together or can they do that with just the front diff in hand? they use those axle stub retainers to adjust the backlash and what exactly is being measured? i can't imagine access to measure anything with it all bolted back together.